Flame Licker.

[Stilldrillin]

I now own a second hand, James Maiwald Flamelicker engine. (And a Stirling, but that`s another can of worms). 

I had it running, once......



All I seem able to achieve now is a few mild pops.   

Somewhere, I seem to remember someone posted some timing tips.

Any ideas Chaps? Pleese! 

David D

[bogstandard]

David,

If you haven't moved the timing, it should start, but a lot of people don't realise that most lickers require the cylinder to be warm first.

With my twin, I go overboard and swipe each cylinder with a blowtorch for about 30 seconds each, but if you haven't played about with the timing, set the port intake to open and let the burner run for a couple of minutes to get a little heat in there, then try to start it.


Bogs

[Stilldrillin]

Thanks John!

The timing was "somewhere near", so I hit it with my hot air paint stripper gun, this afternoon, & got it going! 

But, no faster than the vid, despite creeping the timing in each direction!

It ran steadily for about 1hr...... But with no enthusiasm at all! 

Hmmmm....... 

David D

[CrewCab]

It ran steadily for about 1hr...... But with no enthusiasm at all!   

Dunno SD, seemed a happy li'l bunny to me, mebbe it's not meant to power a racing car    ............... nice engine whatever 

CC

[bogstandard]

David,

It most probably isn't the timing at all, in fact, if it is running you could almost guarantee it isn't the problem.

If it is supposed to run faster, then try moving the flame a tiny amount, first along the engine axis, and if that doesn't do it then towards and out. I am talking real tiny amounts. First off, felt tip where you started from, so that you can get it back in the same position, then it will be 1/2mm steps from then on.
If there is no change, then that is what the engine runs at.

You must have seen how slow mine runs at, and no amount of adjusting will get it to run any faster.

That is around 400 RPM, and the power output is actually just enough to keep itself running, if one flame goes out, you've had your lot, it stops.
 
That is why they were never successful commercially, too much fuel in, too little power out.


John

[Stilldrillin]

Thanks, Dave, John.....

It`s probably me, just not used to the engine, yet.

The burner doesn`t really have a sweet spot, more of a "leave me alone! Or I`ll stop", spot!  

James Maiwald`s vid shows what I hoped for.

http://www.kellergeist71.de/downloads/flammenfresser.avi

So, I`ll not fiddle with it, much!  

But, it does need a spacer, to position the crank better.......  

David D

[bogstandard]

Dave,

Try making the wick a little longer, then try again at moving it. Measure the wick height before you start so that it can be put back.

You might not have enough heat being sucked in.

These engines are one of the most difficult to get running, and running well, but once you find the sweet positions and settings, they will start and run with no further problems.

John

[Stilldrillin]

Thanks John,
So, I just need more practice....... That`s no problem!  


Then I`ll start on the Stirling......  

David D

[NickG]

John,

  but how did you drill the long hole through the cylinders for the valve rod? I am planning to build one based on Jan's design but can see a potential problem here, I may need to drill bigger and put bushes in, but there isn't much room for that unless I make deep fins.

David, yours does seem to run nicely in that vid.

Cheers,

Nick

[bogstandard]

Nick,

I got around my problems by silver soldering a drill onto the end of a bit of silver steel to give me the extra length. I now have long series drills to save me having to do such things.

You must be using the old version of Jan's plans.

If you go to here, It shows the two mods that need doing to the plans

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2084.0


John

[NickG]

Thanks John,

Thought I'd seen that somewhere. 


Nick