Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

Making a 5MT Myford adapter

(1/3) > >>

bogstandard:
As you may well know, I use adaptable tooling, that can be swapped from machine to machine, still with the piece part mounted, so I can turn an item on the lathe, unscrew the chuck and screw it straight onto the RT for further work, and vice versa.
What I have noticed, especially on the lathe, if I take a largish cut, I sometimes get chatter marks.
I am going to try to reduce the chatter as much as possible.

This is what I am using at the moment, a chopped down 5MT to 2MT adapter, with a 2MT mounting Myford chuck nose. I want to make it a one piece job.




When Stew and myself had a morning out to visit Bluechip Dave, we had to stop half way there for me to stretch my legs. It just so happened, right next to the rest stop was a scrap yard. So taking a leisurely stroll, we found ourselves inside and confronting a young man sorting out ferrous scrap. I had spied what looked like rams off hydraulic cylinders, so the young gent climbed in the skip and retrieved me a couple and I also picked up some nice thick pieces of plate. I asked him how much, and I got the lot for five squid.
Anyway, I decided to use part of the smallest and shortest piece of our find to make a one piece unit out of. This is 2" in diameter.




A quick date with the power hacksaw chopped off a slightly overlength piece. I wasn't really worried about the overhang out of the chuck. The chuck held it really rigid, and I knew it wasn't going to flex much. It turned up fairly nicely.




The end was faced and centred.




Then it was drilled and tapped out to 12mm. This is for the drawbar I will be using.




I will be using the topslide for turning the taper. But because I will need all 100mm (4") of the movement to cut the taper, I had to turn down the end bit.
That is the end of the turning at this time, I need to set the topslide angle to cut the taper. So this piece was removed from the chuck, and the original two piece part was mounted up with the threads inside the jaws.




The first thing I did was getting it to run true. I have said before that I like these four jaw self centring because they always seem to run accurately, this one was no exeption, less than 0.02mm (0.001") runout. So as long I got it running true at different areas of the taper, I was happy.




The DTI was run along the taper to set the angle up on the topslide, from near the chuck,




to the tailstock end. It took a little time, but I got it spot on and everything was locked up tight.




The original lump of metal was remounted in the chuck and trued up with a DTI.
Feeding the topslide by hand, the basic taper was cut to size, but because of the hand feeding and the tough material, the finish was only so-so.




To clean up the cut, I decided to use my toolpost grinder. Here, I am just dressing the wheel by feeding with the topslide to make sure it runs parallel with the taper.




I put a cut on of 0.01MM (0.0005") and gradually hand fed along and back on the taper.




It isn't as good as what I would normally do, but my hands were giving up with all the slow feeding, so I decided it was plenty good enough for the job it had to do. In fact the photo shows it worse than it really is.




So after putting a thin layer of engineers blue on the inside of the mount, I located the taper and this is how it came out.

That will do me just fine.



The next job is to modify the old drawbar, then with the taper locked in, I can start to shape the front end.


Bogs

John Stevenson:
You know John if you stare really hard at the unfinished end you can see the 1-1/8" x 12 thread hiding just under the surface.

John S.

bogstandard:
Yes John, I have already seen it.

Now that I know that this machine can cut accurate imperial, I can see even deeper.

This is only the first part of the exercise, the next bit will fit onto this, an ER32 nose. Then I have the Myford nose fixture to make for the RT, so the ER32 will then fit both.

It was a real shame I couldn't give that surface another going over with the grinder, but as you well know, I have a duff right hand as well (I'm falling apart at the seams), and I was lucky to get one cut done. But everything from now on can be done under power, so that will cure any future problems.

John

Stilldrillin:
Very nicely done/ started John.....  :clap:

Again!  :thumbup:

David D

John Hill:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on October 16, 2009, 01:50:00 AM ---
It was a real shame I couldn't give that surface another going over with the grinder, but as you well know, I have a duff right hand as well (I'm falling apart at the seams), and I was lucky to get one cut done.
--- End quote ---

John, somewhere, maybe even on Madmodders(?), someone is using a battery drill to turn their compound screw etc.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page