Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Making a 5MT Myford adapter
bogstandard:
John,
That is already on the tuit list, but not this time.
I very rarely use the topslide like I did, only a few times a year, so it is very low on the priority list.
Many thanks for mentioning it anyway. It might spark off another topic.
John
bogstandard:
As I mentioned last time, before I can start any work on the new adapter, I need to make up a drawbar for it, this will stop it falling out of the spindle as I am working at the nose end.
I had already done a little work before I took these photos, so this shows where I am up to.
I have already cut off the old smaller thread that was on the drawbar I had made for the old nose fitting.
At the right hand end, a new thread fitting has been made and this will be joined onto the bar when I get it to the right length.
In middle front is a bearing block to help prevent damage to my spindle and make things a lot easier to tighten and undo.
Before going any further, I will explain about the bearing block.
When I made the drawbar originally, the turn knob sat directly on the end of the spindle, and was very tight to slacken off or tighten up because of the metal to metal friction.
This is an ali block that sits inside and on the end of the spindle, and has a ball race stuck into a recess. So when the knob is tightened, it presses on the ball race instead of the spindle end.
Because I need the tightening knob to act on only the centre of the ball race, a small flange was cut that was smaller than the outer race, but larger than the inner.
Using my rotating tailstock chuck, I mounted up the drawbar so that I could give it a going over with emery cloth to make sure the surface was smooth enough to allow it to run thru the ballrace.
So now the rod had to be made to the correct length for it to tighten up and do it's job.
The new screwed end was put into the tapered adapter, and that was then stuck up the spout and given a light tap with a lead hammer to get it into the right position.
This shot shows how the bearing block works, it sits between the knob and spindle end.
The rod was pushed forwards until it hit the new threaded fitting.
The amount of gap between the knob and block is how deep the hole needs to be drilled in the screwed end fitting. This was just over 18mm (3/4"), so if I drill the fitting to 25mm (1") deep, that will give a nice tightening up allowance.
That is what is being done here.
The first thing I had to do was put the bearing block on the shaft, because it won't go on after it is all put together.
The now drilled screwed end was fitted onto the end of the bar and a cross hole was drilled, and a roll pin fitted to allow disassembly if needed.
It was tried out, and it worked just right.
So now this bit is finished, the main part can now be done, so that will be in the next enthralling episode.
Bogs
spuddevans:
--- Quote from: John Hill on October 16, 2009, 03:15:17 PM ---
--- Quote from: bogstandard on October 16, 2009, 01:50:00 AM ---
It was a real shame I couldn't give that surface another going over with the grinder, but as you well know, I have a duff right hand as well (I'm falling apart at the seams), and I was lucky to get one cut done.
--- End quote ---
John, somewhere, maybe even on Madmodders(?), someone is using a battery drill to turn their compound screw etc.
--- End quote ---
Yup, it was me. I just chucked up a allen key ( with the little leg cut off ) in the cordless drill, then just ran it on a nice slow speed hand held to engage on the socket head cap screw holding the handle on the cross-slide ( or on the topslide ). Made quite a nice finish on my rubber lathe, so it should work even better on yours John :thumbup:
Tim
bogstandard:
Tim,
I don't think that would work for me when grinding, but it might be OK for turning.
I have to gauge the forwards movement of the toolpost grinder so that it is sparking out (finishing the grinding process) as it moves along the bar, so it is doing two jobs at the same time, continuously starting to grind and finishing the grind all in the width of the wheel.
So for 4", about 15mins, much slower than your drill could feed it. I need to make something that is geared down to give a V-E-R-Y slow speed.
Even the slowest feed speed I can get on the saddle of my lathe is still a little too fast for ideal grinding.
People don't seem to realise that grinding on this sort of scale is a very slow affair, and can't be rushed. Otherwise you can end up with surface finishes worse than when you started. DAMHIK.
When you see industrial grinding, they are using massive wheels compared to what we use, and flood coolant to keep the surface heat under control. That is how they can get things done much quicker. Even the wheels are automatically dressed as they progress.
We can only play at it, and do the best with what we have.
Bogs
spuddevans:
--- Quote from: bogstandard on October 16, 2009, 05:56:13 PM ---So for 4", about 15mins, much slower than your drill could feed it. I need to make something that is geared down to give a V-E-R-Y slow speed.
--- End quote ---
Wow :jaw: I did not know that you had to go that slow when grinding. That would be far slower than a drill could go. Maybe a little motor driving a worm gear reducion gearbox would be a future mod to make :dremel:
Tim
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