Author Topic: T-nuts  (Read 8207 times)

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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T-nuts
« on: September 26, 2009, 05:02:02 PM »
My mill is a X1L type and the t-nuts are for an 8mm t slot and has M6 threads.

I have always wanter just a bit sturdier threads to clamp down with. So here goes a piece of 12mm black steel bar (recycled stuff hard as hell)  and a piece of M* thread bar.  About an hour on the mill and 1 min on the bandsaw.


If that looks blurred to you to its not just my eyes.

On the lathe I used the saddle stop and one of the t-nuts to position the threads in the collet and then cut a part down to 6mm and thread to M6 (the thread then just as long as the t-nut height.





The nuts marked and drilled then tapped on the George Thomas tappin thingy



And the bit screwed together.



To be continued

Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

Offline andyf

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #1 on: September 26, 2009, 08:40:03 PM »
If you haven't already done it, might it be a good idea to spoil the thread at the bottom of each T nut? Otherwise, the studs might bottom out in the T slots when you are clamping things up. If that happens, Sod's Law dictates that when you remove the clamp nut on top of the stud, the stud will stay where it is, firmly jacking the T nut upwards and leaving you to resort to locknuts on the stud to loosen it off.

Andy
Sale, Cheshire
I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short

Offline Darren

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #2 on: September 26, 2009, 08:50:44 PM »
Like this, I used a small chisel

You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2009, 03:41:15 AM »
Thanks Andy, Darren

The M6 to M8 rod have a Shoulder that stops this happening but that other two are going work with M6 rodds and that has been a problem with the set I got with the machine so will be damaging them all some time today.
Put a pic of the shoulder in. Unscrewed to show what I mean.



Darren what size are those T-nuts?????  they look massive.

The clamp plates to fit these 8mm tread rods.  With my mill nearly 2 hours of slot drilling 5 cuts to 1mm any more and the mill starts shaking and vibrating.



MAking a Dial indicator holder next.????

Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

bogstandard

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2009, 04:03:56 AM »
Gerhard,

The trick to cutting slots like you have done, is to remove most of the metal first with a drill just a little smaller than the width of the slot you are making, then use your slot drill for finishing off. Plunge straight thru with the slot drill at the first hole, then use the side cutting flutes to slowly cut to the other end of the slot. A few minutes for each one should have done it.

You were using a slot drill weren't you? By the sounds of it you might have been using an end mill.




Bogs

Offline Darren

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2009, 06:13:43 AM »
Hi Gerhard, my making of T-nuts can be found here....the threads are 12mm the rest I'd have to measure.... :ddb:

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1202.0
You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline Mike K

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2009, 11:17:05 AM »
Bogs,

Does that technique only work on larger milling machines?

I don't know what size machine Gerhard has, but I've tried that on my X2 with not so good results.  Since it was only cutting at the sides of the cutter, with one side climbing milling and the other side conventional milling, the cutter bounced horribly in the slot.

Mike

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #7 on: September 27, 2009, 11:53:46 AM »
Mill is tiny X1  http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-SIEG-Axminster-SIEG-Super-X1-Micro-Mill-MkII-719673.htm

Tried your way first Bogs but didnt make much differance and then in end I drilled 8mm at eacd end and just slowly milled in between.  X1 mill is just to small for steel exept very small detail or if you have a lot of time.

End mill used first then when drilling the ends at size I used a 4 flute slot cutter( the one that cant plunge)

The mill deflect by 1mm (sideways) between climb milling and down milling at the same setting????????????? :( :( :(
I just learned to take more time than necc for each job


Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

bogstandard

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #8 on: September 27, 2009, 12:53:56 PM »
Mike & Gerhard,

That is a standard method for cutting slots such as that.

To eliminate the bouncing effect, you could try going down each side seperately with a smaller cutter to eliminate the climb milling while cleaning up the rough edges to almost full slot width, then go down with the full width cutter to clean things up.

Did you lock up the axis you weren't using? If not, the table will tend to rock side to side, so giving you problems. A lot of people blame lack of rigidity of the column for it, when it could just be incorrectly set gibs, or not having gibs locked when machining in the opposite axis.

But I can understand your concern about these smaller machines, the columns do have a tendency to rock 'n roll a bit.

Another thing to remember that I should have mentioned, and this concerns almost all sizes of machines and cutters that we tend to use. If you use the correct size cutter for a slot from the start, you will invariably get a very slightly oversized slot. I always go down with a one sized under cutter first, then finish off with the correct size.

Like all things in this game, everything plays it's role in getting what you want, as you are finding out. Machine rigidity, cutter type and quality, lubrication and swarf clearance, material, speeds and feeds plus anything else that the world wants to throw at you to stop you making what you want as accurately as you want it. As you get used to your machinery, and listen to what it is telling you, you will eventually be able get around most of these problems thru a bit of a tweak here or something else there, that is what is called machining experience. You are not alone when it comes to getting machining problems. When I get in my shop, I can guarantee that something will crop up, and I think all the experienced people on here will say the same, no matter how long you have been at it, something new always comes along to throw a spanner in the works.

Bogs

Offline Mike K

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #9 on: September 27, 2009, 03:06:27 PM »
Gerhard,

I'm not sure if I read your earlier post right...Were you taking a 1mm depth of cut in steel?  If so, that's huge for our small machines.  I don't think I can go beyond 0.020" (.5mm).

Bogs, thanks for the tips.

Mike

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #10 on: September 27, 2009, 05:31:37 PM »
No Mike it takes 5 cuts to do 1mm.  0.2mm depth of cut is the max - any bigger and vibration sounds like im breaking it.

I could do .5mm but it feels just wrong.

Bogs thanks-forgot all about lube -remembered to lock X axis -

Of all the things I had to learn i'm strugling with patience (cant even spell it) the most

Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2009, 03:14:40 PM »
Made the Dial indicator holder

This is same diameter as the shaft on the magnetic base - easy to change from one to other.  Dont ask why I made that as I have a Magnetic base????? Im sure it will come in handy some time. Not very  :smart:

Holder and the tread is one piece so it uses a Tnut from pic above.



Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

Offline sbwhart

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #12 on: October 05, 2009, 03:23:34 PM »
Hi Gerhard

That looks a handy bit of kit, I've got something similar to hold my coolant pipe.
Nice bit of machining  :thumbup:

Cheers

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
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Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline CrewCab

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Re: T-nuts
« Reply #13 on: October 05, 2009, 04:18:55 PM »
i'm strugling with patience (cant even spell it) 

Your spellings fine Gerhard  :thumbup:  .............. just take your time, it will all come together ....... your Dial indicator holder is a nice piece of work  :beer:

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