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Project Halo

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kvom:
Based on this and other threads, I have put aside some other projects to work on making a tapping station.

Darren:
You won't reget it, I was forever snapping small taps until I made/adapted a small drilling machine.

The difference is unreal and no more broken taps....It's very hard to explain why it helps, but once you've tried it you'll never want to use a small tap the old way again.... :dremel:

bogstandard:
I had these done a couple of days ago, but it is only now I have felt like spending a bit of time doing a write up.

If you remember a couple of posts back, where I made the drilling jig, but also said a part of it was to be used later, and that I had machined the flats to a critical dimension. Well this is how it works.

I am using the square collet block from a 5c block system to put the square ends on the flange.
First off, I turned up a couple of stepped pins, 1/8" to match the holes thru the jig and the other end turned down to the same size as the holes in the flange.




The cylinder was mounted into the collet but the collet wasn't tightened up, the cylinder was free to rotate. The jig was put into the bore and the pins were located into two diagonal holes thru both the jig and cylinder.




I had previously calculated how far the flat on the jig was from the centre of the collet block, so that it would sit perfectly flat when pushed down onto a 1/4" parallel. So onto the flat surface on the back of the vice, the para in position, the collet block was pushed down until it too sat flat on the flat surface. The jig and cylinder rotated in the collet until the flat on the jig sat perfectly flat on the para. The collet was then tightened up, leaving the cylinder in perfect alignment to have the flats machined on the ends and the holes to be in the correct position.




The collet block was mounted into the vice against the backstop, and the cutter brought down to the correct height. Everything except the Y axis was then locked up solid.




By rotating the block and taking single pass cuts, the flats were machined on the ends of the cylinders. They only took a couple of minutes to do each one, and each square was within 1 thou of nominal size. That'll do for me.
Except, because of my impatience or rushing, I managed to fluff up two of the squares, so I am down to only one spare cylinder. It always makes sense to have a couple of extras in the background. Not to worry, the duff ones can be used for setting up the next machining operation on the lathe. That will save having to use good ones.




This is another method I could have done it without the use of the collet block.

Zero up your RT, including the degree scale. Stick two pins in adjacent holes and push a para or a piece of tool steel against the pins.
Rotate the part in the chuck until you get a zero/zero runout on the DTI when run down the Y axis. Once that is done, get the correct distance for cutting and do your standard 0,90,180,270 cut.




Here is another shot of the setup.




All the bits ready for the last operations on the lathe.



As I have said, this is how I did it. I am sure there are many ways and methods you could use to achieve the same result.

Unfortunately, later this morning, I have a banana lathe to sort out, so it might be a while before I can carry on with this post.


Bogs

Darren:
Fancy a game of Skittles anyone.....Johns got the pins, who's got the ball?... :ddb:


Looking good there John......coming along nicely.... :thumbup:

Brass_Machine:
John,

Without sounding like a kiss ass... It is remarkable to me how quickly and accurately you get this stuff done. I aspire to be half as good my friend.

Eric

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