The Craftmans Shop > Radio Control Models

1/16 Scale RC Truck parts

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vtsteam:
I suppose if you want to finish off 5/16" hot rolled stock, .300" might be a convenient figure to shoot for.

ddmckee54:
I'm still fighting with Alibre Design Pro, I just purchased a perpetual off-line license about 6-8 months ago.  I was using Designspark 3D Mechanical until they went subscription.  I know they still have a "Free" version, but that version is a dumbed down copy of what was current before they went subscription.  I haven't used Alibre enough to become proficient with it yet, especially when using an "assembly".  I can put the parts where I want them, but when I try to animate the parts things start to go hay-wire.  Also, with the suspension assembly shown below I'm trying to build it out of various sub-assemblies.

The suspension assembly contains sub-assemblies for the rear axle, the center axle, and the front axle.  When working directly with the front axle assembly I can make the CVA axle pivot like it's supposed to.  When I add the front axle sub-assembly to the suspension assembly I can no longer make the CVA axles pivot, there's probably check-box somewhere that I need to check/un-check - but I haven't found it yet.  When I get the spindles/axle bearing housings/steering arms, and the tie-rod, designed it will be interesting to see if it will act the way it's supposed to. 

ddmckee54:
I think that I just might be starting to get a handle on this Alibre assembly crap. 


You are looking at a functional 3D assembly model.  I can spin the wheel on the axle.  When I turn the steering knuckle the wheel moves with it, and the tie-rod brings the knuckle on the other side along for the ride.

I did have to give up on the idea of putting the tie-rod above the drive shaft though, there just wasn't enough room.  Where it is currently located the tie-rod is about 4-5mm below the driveshaft and won't touch any thing trough its' full range of travel.  The bottom of the tie-rod is still above the bottom of the differential though so the tie-rod shouldn't get caught on any thing.

ddmckee54:
I've been working on the Sherline again for the last week.  I'm replacing the cheap Chinese scales that I put on it a couple of months ago, they were just an experiment anyway.  I didn't know if I like the scales, and I didn't know if a Noob like me could get them installed without destroying something.  I got them installed, and that was a game changer for me.  I REALLY like the idea of scales on the lathe, just not those scales - for several reasons. 1) They're battery powered, and there's no provision for an AC adapter.  My scales have no Auto-Off feature, I don't know how many times I've come down to the shop only to discover I'd left the scales on the night before.  2) My carriage scale periodically resets to 0.  I've found that this glitching is not an uncommon problem with these scales.  One one the ways they can make them so cheap is by eliminating all the shielding.  3) I really don't like the way I installed them.  I used the brackets provided with the scales which meant the scales wound with the scale facing up, as a shelf for chips and dirt.

I'm replacing the cheap scales with Igaging EZ-View Plus scales, they've got better resolution, they're shielded, and they have an available AC adapter.  I was having trouble wrapping my head around what the brackets for the new scales should look like, and if the way I wanted to install them would even work.  I spent the last week building a 3D model of my lathe, the base it sits on, the carriage with its' dovetails, the cross-slide with its' dovetails, the new scales, and the new read heads.  I then put all those parts together as an assembly drawing and got the carriage and cross-slide working together and set the limits for their normal range of motion.  I initially had the scales and read heads just hanging out in mid-air.  Once I got things dancing around together I started designing the brackets that would hold things together holding the various bits and pieces in place.  The 3D model looks like this, all the pinkish bits are 3D printed parts.


Last night I started the 3D printer pooping out the parts before I went to bed.  This morning these were waiting on the printer for me.

Unfortunately the part in the upper RH corner, and part in the lower LH corner do not fit.  Operator error, what can I say.  I fixed the model and re-printed those parts.  The installation is ongoing and should be complete tomorrow?

vtsteam:
Don with those scales you might like to check this site out:

https://www.yuriystoys.com/

I use the bluetooth DRO on my mill, as detailed here.

https://www.madmodder.net/index.php/topic,13501

VERY happy with it. Also I could use the same box with my lathe if I did add scales, and just unplug it from the mill and plug it in there. 

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