The Craftmans Shop > Radio Control Models
1/16 Scale RC Truck parts
tom osselton:
:beer: I’m watching too.
ddmckee54:
A little more progress has been made. I was able to find the broken stub that was shown in Post #18. I thought that I had pitched it, turns out I'd just misplaced it. I found it when I went to use the toaster oven to remove the gears from the next donor axle. I have enough bits and pieces that I now have the fixin's for 2 complete differentials, if I can get that M2 screw with the rounded out hex removed. While the toaster oven was hot I also took apart the axle shown in Post #20 that was 4mm too long. At some point over the last several years I had purchased the smallest Easy-Out I've ever seen. I was able to get enough purchase with it that I could back the screw out enough to grab on to it with a pair of pliers and remove it.
Today I modified the stub axles that I already had cut apart. The axle shaft from Post #20 was 74.27mm over-all in length, so I'm aiming for a 70.25mm length in my completed axles. I modified the first axle, Loctited it together, and left it clamped in the Vee-block while I modified the other axle.
One measures 70.14mm, and the other is 70.38mm. Not bad for a beginner, but I plan on doing better next time. And, the only thing that I had to scrap was that bent length of brass tubing shown in Post #18.
ddmckee54:
The axle looks good, but when I transferred the duals from the Kong axle onto my axle... the wheels sorta fell off the bus. When I tightened them down they wouldn't turn. I took things back apart and started measuring bits and pieces.
The 12mm hex driver from the Kong axles is 6.5mm thick and uses a drive pin with a 1.5mm OD. The WLToys hex driver is 5.5mm thick and uses a drive pin with a 1mm OD. I backed things off enough that the wheels turned freely and did a sanity check against the Bruder tires.
From this angle things look OK, however...
From this angle you can see they're too narrow by a couple of mm.
If I make the driver pockets 5.5mm deep instead of their current 6.5mm depth then things should be just about right. I think I'll make the pockets 5mm deep though, because a little clearance nerver hurts Clarance.
ddmckee54:
Progress in the last couple of days has been a lot like doing the Hokey-Pokey, one step forward, two steps back, and three steps forward.
I modified the existing 3D model for the dual wheels to correct the hex pocket that was too deep. To do that I had to roll back through the history tree and modify the step that formed the pocket, changing the pocket depth from 6.5mm to 5 mm. At this point it was almost bed-time, so I did what any sane person does and spent the next couple of hours watching YouTube videos - THEN I went to bed. The next day I saved and sliced the STL file and started the wheels printing.
About 3 hours into a 4 hour print I noticed a alarming lack of features in the print and promptly aborted it. There SHOULD hove been 8 holes for the M2 screws that hold the hub cover on, and there were also supposed to be 8 slots in the rim that were suspiciously absent. When I saved the STL file I hadn't rolled the history tree back to the end, so the STL just included the 3D model up to that point in the history. It skipped a couple of important steps. like the screw holes, the slots, and most importantly - scaling the model for printing.
Once I corrected the operator blunders, I really gotta hire better help around here, I reprinted the wheels. This time things worked out like the should have the first time.
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Other than black wheels instead of red, it doesn't look that much different than it did in the last post.
vtsteam:
It was the YouTube videos. :zap:
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