![:doh:](https://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/doh-45.gif)
Doesn't fit the new lathe because the edges of the casting interfere with the carriage arms by 1/4" each side. I can't trim the casting edges, because there isn't enough meat in the bottom, and a relief would also cut into the edge flanges of the steady rest.
Uhhhh, the operation was a success..........but the patient died.
![:zap:](https://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/electricf.gif)
Well, it will fit the Craftsman lathe with a riser block, with those reliefs cut into it -- the two lathes share the same ways dimensions, but I don't use that lathe much since building the new one. And I really want a steady rest for the new one.
Next steps......I thought about using the lower casting as a pattern and casting a new one, with the weak area built up. But looking carefully at the present design, it would be a pretty tricky part to cast -- the parting line would have to meander -- looks like they might have used a two part pattern and/or coped down. And lifting a heavy thin and deep webbed iron pattern looks like it might be tricky leaving all kinds of trouble behind in the mold sand.
A new design would be easier. Home casting, unlike commercial molding practice, doesn't require using thin webs to save on material costs, so a steady rest can be simpler in design. I think I'll just make a steady from scratch, and while I'm at it, open up the capacity from the present 2-3/4" to 4" so I can clean up the bore of larger cylinders.
Supporting large diameter stock is my present need in a steady rest, rather than turning long thin stuff. Funny thing is, the Gingery aluminum steady I built for the 7x12 Gingery lathe had 3" capacity -- larger than this old rehabilitated iron steady that was apparently intended for use in a 16" lathe.
I'll look at what I need for a pattern on the new lathe today.
This time also ........uhhhhh,.....checking for fit between the carriage arms.
![:wack:](https://madmodder.net/Smileys/default/Just_Cuz_15.gif)