The Craftmans Shop > New from Old

It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed

<< < (24/53) > >>

russ57:



--- Quote from: awemawson on February 06, 2022, 01:57:40 PM ---. I have no way of tapping a full length thread for the 100 mm of the pins length....... I'm also not that confident that my 25 mm deep threaded  hole is sufficiently accurately vertical to arrive in the correct place were it extended to the needed 150-160 mm 

--- End quote ---

The thread doesn't need to be full depth - drill a smaller hole (8mm?) from the bottom of the tapped portion, and drop a "driver" rod into it which the 10mm bolt can then push

Although it risks buckling.

-russ

awemawson:
This morning I successfully drilled a 5 mm hole roughly co-axial through the pin into the cavity below it without breaking the drill, which at 106 mm deep drilling hand held was a distinct possibility !

Two objectives: A/ Introduce penetrating oil below the pin for it to soak in  both ways, and B/ Possibly make a fitting to take a grease nipple into the M10 tapped hole to pressurise under the pin with a high pressure grease gun and maybe even force it out that way.

Well objective A/ did work but B/ is thwarted as the penetrating oil is leaking somewhere down there and there'd be no chance of getting significant pressure.

So back to heating and slide hammers. Another session with the existing slide hammer was fruitless so I made another hammer - actually repurposed the one I made to try and release the man hole cover over the bore hole. Had to weld on a smaller diameter 'stop' to match the 12 mm slider.

The 'new' hammer weighs 2.5 kg whereas the original was only 850 grams but still not effective. Obviously a longer slider lets you get up more speed thus greater inertia. Hunting for suitable rod a length of M12 studding came to hand and was pressed into service.

Still not moving the pin one iota  :bang: Amazingly the M10 thread into the pin hasn't stripped as it's taking an enormous whacking.  The pin will be a decent steel no doubt and the nose is made from an HT bolt.

. . . tactical withdrawal to cogitate !

vtsteam:
Andrew I didn't want to intrude, since you seemed to have it handled -- the slide hammer seemed like it would work, but just as a last resort could you weld something onto your pin and tab to engage a puller? Or even just weld a big bolt on, head down, and pass it through a drilled bit of channel iron legs down, and us a nut to pull the pin? Then grind the temporary stuff off after?

hermetic:
O/A! heat both ends of the pin till glowing red, then cool rapidly, repeat a few times and it should give up! Drill it out?
Phil

awemawson:
Steve / Phil thanks for the comments.

If I were prepared to give the forging a good heat with OA I'm sure that the recalcitrant pin would come out with the slide hammer BUT there's just too much 'stuff' in that area that would suffer from the heat (oil seals etc) and it's not that easy to dismantle. (Hub has to be  dismantled and removed and we saw what a pain that was with the other side!)

As a last resort I'll keep filling the tapped hole with penetrating fluid in the coming season capping it with a bolt and hope that a bit of usage will free it up. The actual pin / bush wear isn't too awful.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version