The Craftmans Shop > New from Old

It's BIG, Yellow and digs holes! JCB 3CX Project 8 is joining the Tractor Shed

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hermetic:
The inequality of views at first I cannot explain, but I can easily see why a picture and instructions for repairing any part of any JCB would get loads of hits from searches. I have two videos on my channel that have way more hits than others, one about repairing a Ford mondeo heater fan, and one about rebuilding a carb on a Stihl 08S chainsaw! When ppl want to do a job they have never done before, they start by googling it! I have had thanks from all over the world for publishing the Stihl carb repair!
Phil

awemawson:
Last night I made an adaptor for my slide hammer to give it a 10 mm nose, and this morning drilled and tapped the blind pin that is very reluctant to come out.

Much sliding and much hammering and quite a bit of applied heat from a blow torch and . . . . .. the pin hasn't moved one jot  :bang:

. . . hey . . .there's not THAT much play on this pin, leave it . . . Get thee behind me Satan  :bugeye:

So at the moment another impasse. It's slathered in 'Plus Gas' penetrating oil more in hope than expectation whilst I have another re-think - I may make a longer slide hammer that would allow better whacking and I could perhaps give it a heavier hammer but I'm afraid of stripping the thread.

RussellT:
Hi Andrew

If you've already tapped it you could try drilling right through the pin and using a bolt to jack it out, or using a bit of tube and some threaded rod to make a puller, (or both). When you've got as much tension on as you can then heat and bash it on the sides.

Sorry if your grandmother can already suck eggs.

Russell

awemawson:
Russell yes that would be a good approach were it possible. I have no way of tapping a full length thread for the 100 mm of the pins length. The forging that the pin goes into is much deeper than the pin at that point and forms a vital web retaining the tie rod pins - I don't want to weaken it even if drilling through were an option so I can't hit it from below. I'm also not that confident that my 25 mm deep threaded  hole is sufficiently accurately vertical to arrive in the correct place were it extended to the needed 150-160 mm  :palm:

Current plan is to block up the front axle, remove the front wheel (more long scaffold tube torque amplifiers!) and have a go with the better access thus created. If still no go, I'll make a longer and heavier slide hammer with the risk that I'll strip the 10 mm thread.

If it does strip I have the possibility of one more round of attempts re-threading it at M12 as the tapping size for M12 is 10.2 mm

The 'burning my boats' approach it to cut the pin with a Sawzall and remove the upper and lower bits individually. The upper one should be OK but the lower one still has the problem of drilling and tapping at the bottom of a deep hole.

mc:
If it does strip the 10mm thread, I'd just weld a slide hammer to the pin.

I've got an old slide hammer for the sole purpose of being welded to things, as it saves the hassle of drilling/tapping, plus the extra bit heat often helps loosen things.

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