The Shop > CNC
First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro
Brass_Machine:
Mine has been running almost non stop since I replaced the mainboard... Christmas is coming and I am making a few gifts.
Pete... What are you using for a slicer? I have been using Cura, however, I am a little unhappy with it. Been reading that people go from good prints to amazing by changing over to Simplify3D. Costs money, but I have been thinking of making the switch.
Eric
Pete.:
I'm using the bundled slicer because most of the modern software won't run on my old 32-bit PC. It's cura-based far as I know.
I'll have to upgrade this PC and get some more powerful software.
Joules:
Guys, give PrusaSlicer a go before parting with money. I have been a long time user of S3D, but recently moved over to PrusaSlicer full time. It has the added advantage of being free. Not happy with the direction and slow development of S3D, they are trying to move to a subscription and cloud based model.
ddmckee54:
Unlike Joules, I went the other way. I starting out using the Prusa slicer for a year or two and liked it a lot more than Cura. But, two things that I didn't like about it were what it did with thin wall perimeters, and the way it handled supports.
I don't know if they've changed it or not, but when I was using Slic3r, if it could not completely fill the perimeter of a thin wall, it left a void in the perimeter. Using a 0.4mm nozzle, if I tried printing a 1mm wall I wound up with the outside perimeters that were a single filament wide, and a void between them. Simplify3D will go back and fill the void. Maybe there was a parameter that I could have changed to fix this, but at the time I didn't know the secret of how to fix this.
The way it handled supports was my biggest gripe about the Prusa slicer, or regular Slicer for that matter. When supports are used it lays down a complete solid platform under the area needing support. This is great for the area needing support, but it makes it much harder to remove the supports after printing. If I remember correctly it applied the same number of top layers to supports as it did to the rest of the model. Again, maybe there was a way to change this, but I didn't find it. It might have been so easy to do that I just overlooked it.
One of the things that I really like about Simplify3D is how easy it is to properly orient a model to the build plate. If you haven't used it before, you simply hit CNTRL-L and then click on the surface you want on the build plate. I found out about that one from Clough42 in one of his videos on YouTube.
Don
PekkaNF:
I ordered Ender 3 pro too.
Do I start my own thread or butt in?
I have dabble with Fusion360, not much and I am not sure f that licence still works - I have heard that thye have changed hobby licence.
Anyway I ordered the printer, few reels of PLA and PETG. Also a reel of soft filamet (that normally would not work on bowden feed machine, but it's harder Shore A95 and they have thested it with this printer - might work).
What do I print firts to check dimenssional stability?
My first real project will be Clough42 Lathe Electronic Leadscrew Control Panel
There is an operating dongle and in final version buttons are printed with Ninja Flex, but enclosure is milled. I don't have cnc engraver fot the text, trying to cook up something.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3740612
Straightes way from point A to point B?
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