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First 3d printer - Ender 3 pro

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Brass_Machine:

--- Quote from: PekkaNF on December 18, 2019, 03:40:33 PM ---I ordered Ender 3 pro too.

Do I start my own thread or butt in?
....

--- End quote ---

Good question. It is up to Pete as this is his thread.

I am up for starting a general 3D printing thread to carry on.

Eric

Pete.:
Pile in the more the merrier!

For a test part I drew a 20 x 20 x 20 cube with a 12mm hole through it one way. I've found that all the holes I print come out about 0.25mm small. The cube came out 0.1mm large.

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: Pete. on December 18, 2019, 05:49:23 PM ---Pile in the more the merrier!

For a test part I drew a 20 x 20 x 20 cube with a 12mm hole through it one way. I've found that all the holes I print come out about 0.25mm small. The cube came out 0.1mm large.

--- End quote ---

Thank you.

I am concerned on hole spacing on X/Y plane. Those tolerances you mentioned sounds pretty good.

Noob question: On features that has to fit (or snap) together, how do you adjust dimensions to reach the required fit? And where do you adjust it? Nominal hole/rod size on Fusion and corections on slicer or is there an additional step?

Pekka

ddmckee54:
I don't know about everybody else, but I know that I completely forgot to allow for shrinkage.  Everything expands when it get hot, and contracts as it cools.  We're printing at 200°C or more so you're talking about at a 170°C temperature differential from the ambient temperature.  With PLA I think the shrinkage is about 4-5%.  Clough42 mentioned this in one of his videos where the hole spacings were off in both X and Y.  Most slicers have a scaling parameter that you can use to scale all the axis to correct for shrinkage.  You tell the slicing software to scale your part to 104-105% and you've just compensated for shrinkage.

On my first printer I had an issue with the Y axis, it was 4-5% short of what it should have been.  I needed to modify the steps/mm, but I didn't have the source code for the version of Marlin that came on that machine - still don't.  By doing a LOT of on-line research I found that my machine would accept the M-code commands to modify the steps/mm settings via the G-code file.  There are freeware packages out there that will allow you to send M-code commands to your printer and it will tell you what the current settings are.  If you are printing from your PC, and not from an SD card then you are already using one of these.  I added a couple of lines in my slicer that modify the steps/mm settings in the G-code sent to the printer.  That way I'm always telling the printer what it's correct steps/mm are.  This is all assuming that your machine is using a Ramps board and an Arduino to run your printer.  If you've got something else, then you're on your own Bubba.

Don

WeldingRod:
Small round holes pull in, with less effect as the hole gets bigger.  Hexes have very little pull in. 
Nophead did the basic research on this one... very interesting.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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