The Craftmans Shop > Radio Control Models

Bruder Manitou 2150 - RC conversion

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Don, I attach photos in my post.  I used to embed them using photobucket, but that went tits up and ruined lots of my threads.  The attachment button below is used to attach upto 10 photos at the end of your post, so I name each one and refer to it in the post.   Not as nice as embedded photos, but safer to have them here on forum storage.

Hope that helps, posting 800x600 jpeg seems to be a good size these days.

Don I'm not a specialist, just plain ordinary computer user, but don't the internet service providers on that side of the pond offer an option to host your own pictures/files?

In the past, I used Photobucket, but something went wrong with it, and most, if not all of the links to the pictures didn't work anymore. I don't remember, how temporary it was, but I remember, that a lot of photobucket users were upset by that.

Of course there is also a chance for that to happen for a local ISP. Computers here and there and everywhere...

Without knowing much about it, I wonder, why the Google Photos don't work. A company that big should have an endless resources to make their services easy to access for the end user.

I'll bet they also have a lot of 'terms of uses', which are changed many times in a year.

Perhaps the problem, that you have, has something to do with privacy(or who knows what) settings in Google Photos?

Embed, that's the word I was looking for - thanks for reminding me.  Until somebody can clue me into a REALLY simple way of embedding images in a thread, I'll attach them.  I'm pretty sure I can do that.

The first attachment will be the overall view of the 3D model.  In this view I've changed the model's rendering to 3D Outline.  I think it makes it a little easier to see the individual parts of the model like this.

The second attachment shows the outriggers and the various Bits and Bob associated with them, also rendered in the 3D Outline format.  Most of what you're looking at in the 2nd attachment will be 3D printed.  The outrigger housing, re red part at the bottom is roughly 15mm wide by 20mm tall and about 120mm long.  The extendable outrigger, the black part on the right, is about 135mm long overall and will extend about 110mm.  The outrigger will pivot from the red block on the left.

The blue rectangle at the top is the cover for the N20 Type 7 gearmotor that will turn the screw to lower and raise the outrigger.  I've printed test examples of the covers, found Boo-Boos, and hopefully fixed same.  The entire gearmotor, with covers, will fit in a space that's 12x25x25mm.    Other people have used these gearmotors in linear actuators that seem to be handling higher loads, so I'm hoping that these will work out.  The hole that runs through the gearbox covers is for the M3 bolt that will be the pivot for the ram.  I'm a little concerned with these covers only being 1mm thick. but that's all the room I had.  Time will tell if these covers will handle the loads.  I'm not going to be lifting tons, just ounces, so I THINK I'll be OK.

The yellow part below the gearmotor is the "cylinder" of the ram.  This will be a piece of 5/16" brass tubing that will be fastened to the gearmotor's output shaft by a set screw, a grub screw if you're from the other side of the pond.  The other end of the cylinder will be threaded M3 to fit the threaded rod that will be the "piston" of this ram - the piston will be fixed.  I know, I know, the cylinder is spinning and the piston is fixed - so sue me.  I'm pretty sure that the crankshaft for the LeRhone rotary was fixed to the firewall and it worked fairly well.  I'm not the first one to get things backwards.  Back on subject, the Bruder outrigger rams move about 20mm, I've got about 25mm of travel in what I've designed.

That's enough for today, tomorrow - the axles!

I know that I said today would be the axles...  Well I lied may have stretched the truth a little.  I WAS going to print out the updated axle last night, but by the time I got all the modifications to the gearmotor covers done it was late enough that I'd have had to leave the printer on all night.  It would only need to run an hour or so after I went to bed, wasn't worth it.

I did get a little accomplished, and I can prove it.  I've got pictures so it DID happen.  I'm attaching several pictures:
1) The first attachment is all 4 gearmotor covers on the printer when it got done printing.
2) The second attachment is the gearmotor covers for what will be one of the 4 wheelmotors.
3) The third attachment is all the parts for the wheelmotor, along with a penny for a size reference.
4) The fourth attachment is the wheelmotor hiding behind a penny.
5) The fifth attachment shows how the Type 7 gearmotor fits in the cover, along with a quarter for a size reference.  It almost fit like a glove.  I've got to figure out why the pivot hole in one half of the cover fit properly while the other side was too tight.  I know that the picture is badly washed out - sue me, I'm an engineer not a photographer.
6) The last attachment shows the ram motor trying to hide behind that same quarter, and almost succeeding.

I modified the covers for both the wheel gearmotor, and the ram gearmotor.  I was concerned about how thin the covers were. in some areas the covers are only 1mm thick.  I had plenty of room around the gearmotor for the wheel, so I increased the sidewall thickness to 1.5mm and I increased the top and bottom thickness to 2mm.  The top and bottom is where to joint with the king-pin is located.  I also radiused that joint, don't want any stress-risers at that corner now do we?

The Type 7 covers are also only 1mm thick, over the motor and in other parts of the gearbox, but I absolutely cannot increase this.  The motor is 10mm across the flats.  I allowed 0.25mm clearance on both sides of the motor - because FDM printers can get a little sloppy.  When you add 1mm on each side of the motor to that 10.5mm total, you're at 12.5mm.  I've got 13mm of space that I can fit this assembly into - JUST fit it into.  From the fifth attachment you can see that I've got NO room inside the cover to add any material.  I know if I got an SLA printer that I could get away with tighter tolerances, but that is another can of worms that I am NOT going to kick over at this time.  Worst case, I just print out replacement covers if/when they break.

Maybe Monday the axles.

I made some progress over the weekend, this was the first Thanksgiving in several years that I wasn't involved in a shutdown project or two at work.  Anyway, between laundry, cleaning and the other day to day necessities at home, I got a fair amount of prototyping accomplished.  I now have usable 3D models for most of the printed replacement parts that I need to make to convert the lower non-rotating part of the Bruder Manitou 2150 frame to radio control.  I didn't take any pictures yet, these are prototype parts to test for fit and interference, and in most they will not be used on the actual model.  I printed most of these parts using left over partial rolls of PLA from other projects.  I will reprint the correct amount of these parts in the appropriate color for use on the model.  I was going to include a list of the parts I had test printed, but since I don't have pictures that would be  worthless.  I think I'll take some pictures tonight to go with the list tomorrow. 

I did model the front and rear steering servos and an 8 channel receiver.  The receiver sits under the engine cover.  At first I will be using a 6 channel receiver which will probably allow me to use the original Bruder "engine cover".  I do also have an 8 channel receiver which will not fit under the Bruder engine.  It's too wide  to fit in the engine compartment when laying on its' back, and when turned on its' side, it's too tall to fit under the original cover.  I have designed and test fitted a replacement cover that will work, but is very ugly - good thing the engine hood will hide it.

The next step is designing the switching assemblies that will allow me to control 10 functions with 4 channels. One of these switch assemblies will allow me independent control of these functions:
1) Extend/retract all 4 outrigger arms simultaneously.
2) Raise/lower the Left front outrigger.
3) Raise/lower the Right front outrigger.
4) Raise/lower the Left rear outrigger.
5) Raise/lower the Right rear outrigger.

The other of these switch assemblies will allow me independent control of these functions:
1) Left/Right slew of the boom assembly.
2) Raise/lower the boom.
3) Extend/retract the boom.
4) Tilt the forks Up/down.
5) Raise/lower the cable when the forks are replaced with the crane winch.

I won't be able run more than two of those functions simultaneously, one from each set of five, but I can live with that.  I'm not that good at multi-tasking anyway.

I've found a likely candidate for the multi-position switch in my Allied catalog.  It's less that $20 each, so it won't break the bank either.  I'll need four of these things, two for the transmitter, and two on the model.

I was going to list out the parts that I have printed and the parts that I need to design yet, but I think I'll take some crappy pictures tonight so I can show you what I've got.  After all... If you ain't got pictures it didn't never happen - right?



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