The Craftmans Shop > Radio Control Models
Bruder Manitou 2150 - RC conversion
ddmckee54:
OK, I took a BUNCH of crappy pictures, threw the worst away and still have 15-20-ish. Since I can only attach a limited number to each post, I'll break this up into 3 posts.
This post will cover the main frame of the beast and a little more. The first attachment, Manitou 2150 001, shows the main frame of the model, this is split into the upper and lower frame. The upper frame is about 30mm deep and the lower frame is about 24mm deep. The second attachment shows the lower part of the frame. You are looking at the engine side of the frame, and this would be on the operators right side when the cab is facing the front of the machine. This is about 330mm long, about 55-60mm-ish wide, and 24mm deep. The top part of the frame, because of the overhangs that support the outriggers, is about 50-60mm longer than the lower frame. That's a quarter for size reference.
The third attachment shows the front of the Bruder wheel. It's a fairly well detailed wheel, on this side. The next attachment, Manitou 2150 005 shows the back side of the wheel, my 3D printed "Inner Rim", and a quarter for size reference. As you can see the detail on the back side of the wheel is not QUITE as good as the front. You can also see that the wheels are hollow. Bruder RC conversions are notorious for being "light-weight's", that's why I intend to fill the empty space between my printed inner rim and the shell of the tire with BB's and silicon seal. That should add a significant amount of weight, and put the weight where the model doesn't actually have to carry it. The next attachment shows the assembled Bruder wheel and printed inner rim. It's standing proud of the tire because the 6 ribs in the center of the wheel still need to be removed. The quarter is still there for size reference.
The next attachment, Manitou 2150 008, is the two parts of the gearmotor cover that turn this into a wheelmotor. You can see the kingpin sticking up from the part on the left, the part on the right shows the cavity printed for the gearmotor. The gearmotor is a 6 volt 100 Rpm gearmotor which will give me a scale speed of about 16 mph. You can also see the holes for the 2mm bolts that will hold these parts together. The two nearest the center will hold the covers together, while the other will be the attachment point for the tie-rod. The next attachment shows the assembled wheelmotor and the hub that will adapt it to the wheel. The last attachment shows the wheelmotor and the assembled axle. Both the front and rear axles will be identical. The front axle will pivot while the rear axle will be bolted solidly to the frame.
That's enough for this post,
Don
ddmckee54:
This post is the second in a series to three that show the modifications required for my RC conversion of the Bruder Manitou 2150 Rotating Telehandler. This post will cover the modifications required to add my 3D printed axles to the original model.
The first attachment, Manitou 2150 014, shows the front of the lower frame. You can tell it's the front because of the chamfer seen in the lower right of the frame, the rear does not have this chamfer. This picture shows the front portion of the lower frame, you can see the molded in portion of the front axle sticking out. About 16-17mm of the lower frame will be removed, including the lower front axle. In the picture you can see the 3D printed part that will be used to bridge the front and main parts of the lower frame back together. There will be four M3 bolts that hold these parts together. The next attachment, Manitou 2150 023, shows the drilling guide that I have printed out to allow me to get these holes in the proper locations. Attachment 015, I'm not going to bother typing the Manitou 2150 anymore, shows the 3D printed part for bridging the lower frame main and rear parts together. The 3D printed parts are sitting too high because I still need to cut the molded in ribs down to 3-4mm. Then all will be right with the world, at least with my little part of it.
Attachment 016 shows the 3D printed cover I made to hide the receiver. I THOUHT that this one was a keeper, I was wrong. Last night was the first time I've had both the upper and lower parts of the frame together for a while. I've been working on this 3D model for a while and have been modeling the inside of one or the other for a couple of weeks. If you look at the left rear part of my 3D printed part, you'll see two slots in the Bruder lower frame. These slots are about 3mm wide and 6-8mm deep, forming a tab in the middle. A molded in box on the upper frame fits over this tab, guess what I didn't allow for? Yup you got it in one, this 3D printed part is junk. I need to put a notch in the modeled part and re-print the stinkin' thing.
OK, that's it for this post. The next one will deal with the outriggers and their attaching points.
Don
ddmckee54:
We're almost done for the day, just the outriggers left. But this is where it starts to get interesting, at least I think it does.
Attachment 017 shows the front of the upper frame, it's got the grill in it and the rear doesn't have the grill. Other than the grill, the front and rear outrigger mounts are mirror images of each other. The three parts sticking up are the outrigger ram pivots. There should be four, but one was broken off when I got it - that's why I got this thing cheap. Most of the sticky-up and out bits will need to be amputated anyway, so that pivot being busted off is OK.
Attachment 018 shows my 3D printed outrigger replacement parts prototypes, at least the latest versions. I went through several iterations of just the outrigger before I got a version that I was happy with. It's funny, a part can look just fine on the screen, but when you actually print it out you realize that either A) it looks like crap, or B) it's WAY to thin to survive for very long.
The rectangular bit just to the left of the clamp is the gearmotor that will drive the screw that will raise/lower the outrigger. This motor is a 6 volt 100 Rpm Type 7 gearmotor which, using a portion of M3 threaded rod for the screw, will let me fully raise or lower the outrigger in about 30 seconds. There is one of screw rams for each outrigger. The black bit on the right hand side is the gearmotor that will drive the screw to extend/retract the outrigger arm.
Attachment 022 shows the outrigger arm in its' fully extended position. The gearmotor driving the outrigger arm screw is a 6V 200 Rpm gearmotor. The screw will again be a portion of M3x0.5 threaded rod with a total length of about 120-125mm, and a usable length of about 100-110mm. If I'm doing the math right it should take about 30 seconds to fully retract or extend the outriggers.
Thus endth the rant for the day,
Don
ddmckee54:
Somebody say something, I feel like I'm talking to myself here. Which is sort of OK, at least I'm used to it.
I didn't build anything last night, but I did order a couple of things. I ordered some translucent red filament that looks like it will be a closer match to the Bruder red plastic than the solid red filament that I've been using. I also ordered some silver colored filament, we'll see how close of a match it is to the Bruder plastic.
And lastly I ordered a couple of 12 circuit slip rings, I need one for the Manitou and one for the Liebherr crane I got in my pile stash of future projects. The 12 circuits will allow me to run everything I want to and still leave me with plenty of spare circuits for lights and a couple of servo channels - if I want to do that. They are only 2 amp slip rings so I've got to watch how much load I put on them.
Don
kayzed1:
Well i like it a lot, i have been considering getting all the hydraulic kit to do a big digger dozzer for one of the Great grand kiddies.. Plus i get time to play Eer! i mean iron out the snags :ddb:
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