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Tool post grinder build Clough42 inspired
PekkaNF:
Thank you Jeff and Phil!
Turned it on the spigot and now it hardly shows any eccentrisity with 0,01 mm resolution DTI.
All went well, but made last grove 0,05 mm deeper -> had to revisit all of them to same depth. I tried to be smart and turned the exterior to theoretical diameter, when I checked with the pins it's a little "high" at 0,28 mm instead of 0,23 mm but doubt that I will see any problem with that.
https://youtu.be/fgyfZGYaaiY?list=PLDlWKv7KIIr-uFMjbe7AlsHswL6qihPPU&t=2640
Now back on track and they need grub screws.
https://youtu.be/fgyfZGYaaiY?list=PLDlWKv7KIIr-uFMjbe7AlsHswL6qihPPU&t=3503
Might even use this method, or I might use the spigot I made to fixt this screwup, mount motor pulley into square ER32 block and use it to index grub screws at 90 degrees to each others. Maybe.
* Removed YT links, for some reason shows wrong video at wring place...let's try hyperlink.
PekkaNF:
Few setback on materials, tools and flu. That shoud do it....a little delay.
My old relatively trusty russian vise needs a little TLC every now and then. All bolts repalced, but now it became glaringly clear that bottom need a regrind and that vise needs to be remounted in new location.
Therefore, deburring and measurement of flatness on granite surface plate, yesh, needs nearly 0,1 mm skim to get it nearly parallel. Trued the stone, used least four passes to get it relatively level, used tome time to deburr it and check with color that it is now reasonably straight and then back to surface plate to check that top and bottom surfaces are parallel.
Made new key to index it closer to T-groves, this time I was clever and made the key bit thinner than T-grove. Idea being that it still relatively easy to get close to few 1/100:s of mm just by pushing the key to abut on the grove and if it needs adjustment for any reason there is easy chance for it. Time will tell.
Rest is standard mounting and hardly needs comment.
Needed to move it about a little to find a spot on the table where it was fairly level to start with....could not find any burr or obvious bruise - mental note to check the table flatness one day with dye and DTI.
Pekka
PekkaNF:
Drilled and tapped holes for set screws.
Now I need to find proper soft pellets between set screw and motor shaft / spindle.
Ref. 58:30
https://youtu.be/fgyfZGYaaiY?list=PLDlWKv7KIIr-uFMjbe7AlsHswL6qihPPU&t=3513
Bit like that....forgot how he did...I have a little different equipment, did litte different, but pretty much same endgame.
Been planning belt tightener / motor clamp - this is quite different:
Motor is different and needs a flange mount, really can't mount it from circumfrence.
-> excentric tigntener would be awkward on motor side
-> excentric will be on spindle side
Don't have thick aluminium plate - I have steel 8x60 and such, but that is not big enough fot this constructio. I think I will fabricate it from plate and tube.
Pekka
PekkaNF:
Time to assemble the spindle, since all parts are complete.
As mentioned before bearing arrangement is essentially similar, but construction is different: I don't use screw joint to retain the bearings - I am using press fit. Also free bearing has sliding fit on outer ring to spindle body, not between inner ring and shaft as in original design. Here these changes are more or less mater of taste. Maybe I am closer to text book example.
First I pressed the collar/dust cap on ER20 parallel shaft. Light press fit. It really didn't need any studlock.
Aluminium thingy is a press piece that will make sure that bearing is pushed on outer ring and goes straight - face and perimeter turned on same chucking.
Red tape indicates the fixed bearing side vs. free bearing side. All looks the same and dimenssions are the same. Excludung the bearing seat fix 0,02 mm different diameter is the difference between light pressfit and finger tight at 32 mm bearing size.
Then I pressed a bearing retraction flange into spindle body - light press fit too. This has nearly 21 mm hole in the middle - bearing and shaft is 20 mm and spindle body ID is bit ovet 25 mm. If the bearing has to be changed it's nice to knw that 25 mm drift will make fast job out of it. This flange has a little rim to meet bearing outer ring - just if I make a royal cock-up and need to modify this fresh from the start - can use old bearings.
Then I pressed in the fixed bearing - this bearing too is a light pres fit. Used aluminium bushing to make sure it does not brinnel and goes in straight.
I had an option of using glue to retain front bearing in the spindle body and shaft, but these fits feels perfect now.
PekkaNF:
This is another slight departure from the original. I use here one ring that abuts to wave washer, decided to make it fromseparate parts, because I could not decide how much to compress the wave spring and thickness of the push ring beween bearing and pulley.
Floaring end assembly starts by measuring the stack height of the parts and refer that to drawing/guestimate.
The wave spring retainer goes in innermost and it is light fit - I decided to use soft glue to retain it at proper place. I used aluminium plug mounted into grinding vice to set proper insertion depth (13,2 mm that is). Set it correct depth and let glue set one hour (time for groceries and recycle cardboard and other domestic recyclables).
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