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Tool post grinder build Clough42 inspired

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PekkaNF:
And final assembly *of the spindle* was over in minutes.

Only one notable part was to preload the bearing by compressing the wave spring and the lock up the spindle pulley with set screws.

Spindle feels very good. I was expecting some float or springines in it, but it feels really smooth and proper.

Now I can take some measuremet and see how motor mount must locate in relation to spindle body to get pulleys in line.


20.10.2019 appended *of the spindle*

PekkaNF:
I think I figured what to make and in what order. Plan is to fabricate the the parts first, just cut and weld and in the end machine everything straight ans line...

The clamp has biggest weld and therefore most likely to warp structure. I'll weld it first and then make the slits and turn inner diameter straight again. When motor flange is welded into that it will not fit into lathe.

Game plan is to use short weld beads to attach the outrigger motor mount to keep distortion in bay.

PekkaNF:
That was welded up and it pulled 52 mm ID hole about 0,34 mm oval. Not too bad. Mounted it on lathe, bored the protruding part inside level, drilled taping hole and clearance hole, tapped and the used slitting saw to cut slits. It spring slightly and needed only very little truing in lathe to bring close to cylindrical bore.

Now the trouble is that I went too far ahead with aforementioned threading....I could have left untaped and done it last, but I was on automatic mode.....luckily there is plenty of material to go up from M5 to M6. Not elegant, but possibility.

I had hoped that when the outrigger mounting plate would have been welded it would be possible to turn on my friend's lathe. No such luck, it nearly does but not quite.

To make matters worse, I can't trust this on my boring head to do it in milling machine.

I have concidered somehow mounting it to lathe cross slide, but it has no T-slots or any other means of mounting piece there. It would need another project to build the boring bar and mount.

My easies option is not to distort it too much with weld.  :)

In past I have used gas torch to preheat the piece to whatever temperature felt right, but this is bit more sensitive. Don't want to get scale on the split clamp thread etc,

Q: How hot I should heat it? Just somewhere 300C, or even near dull red?

In the end I may need to buy boring head


Pekka

Therefore I need to try weld it with minimal distortion - maybe it

PekkaNF:
Brother TIG-welded split clamp embro togeher.

Little tidying up and slitting to do. Made pretty conservative slit first, can open up them more later.

PekkaNF:
Funny how easy it is to cut with hole saw when there is place for swarf to drop. OD of the hole saw close to 60 mm and speed about 115 rpm. Bit of cutting oil and cut with one go.

Pickeled parts, jigged them together. Left about 1 mm clearance for weld joint.

Tack welded from the extreme ends and disassmbled the jig to check the straighness...needed just a touch and it seemed straignt enough.

A little preheat (maybe 200-300C) and welded 10-15 mm at a time, alternating sides and brushed the slag out. Few blemishes and craters, but this is not for gas tight joint - eye was to fiddle with it least amount possible.

In the end after grinding and pickele it was a around 0,17 mm exxcentric at 50 mm hole. Not too bad for this scale and purpose.

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