Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Taper attachment build
WeldingRod:
Pekka,
The slide is adjustable to get close to zero play using a gib; it runs smoothly. The way its set up, it is free to move up and down if the way isn't lined up with the lathe bed (though mine seems to be very well aligned with those keys).
I think my final height issue was due to the relatively low precision fit of the plastic parts, or a thickness mistake on a plastic part. I really didn't bother working out where I messed up, just fixed it.
Joules:
Good use of the 3D printing. Was it strong enough to try making a part ?
PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on August 14, 2018, 02:37:32 PM ---Pekka,
The slide is adjustable to get close to zero play using a gib; it runs smoothly. The way its set up, it is free to move up and down if the way isn't lined up with the lathe bed (though mine seems to be very well aligned with those keys).
I think my final height issue was due to the relatively low precision fit of the plastic parts, or a thickness mistake on a plastic part. I really didn't bother working out where I messed up, just fixed it.
--- End quote ---
Thank you, Ok. the gib is back of the guide. Looks all very nice.
I like your 3D printed proof of consept plastic parts. That is tempting consept.
Pekka
WeldingRod:
I didn't even try to run the lathe with the plastic parts!
I have, however, cut threads using 3D printed custom change gears!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
ddmckee54:
WeldingRod:
I've given up on trying to get 3D prints with an accurate height. I saw a video where the math was explained, but what I got out of it was that unless your layer thickness exactly matches with the gearing and resolution of your steppers, there is no way that you can get an accurate height. This is because the software always has to play games with the numbers. You throw in micro-stepping the stepper motors and it gets even worse. Mostly just my opinion, YMMV.
Don
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