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The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)

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seadog:
All you need is a CNC lathe and it'd be a doddle... :Doh:

awemawson:
It's actually a simple enough job on a manual lathe and mill (had to do one on the Tractor Flail Mower rebuild) but I'll probably re-use the original.

Now back from the BBQ (where the host / hostess were embarrassingly serving my pork and sausages!) and have managed to knock the bearings off the shaft - they look at a first inspection to be fine but I can't get too involved as I'm still in my glad rags !

I'll give them a good wash out in the morning with spirit and see i they still seem OK, in which case it's just a 'put it back together' job  :thumbup:

seadog:
"I can't get too involved as I'm still in my glad rags !

I'll give them a good wash out in the morning with spirit and see i they still seem OK."

You should have put your overalls on then... :)

awemawson:
Driven out of the house by Vanity Fair on the TV I took refuge in the workshop and re-assembled the powered tooling.

As expected the bearings on examination proved perfectly serviceable, so with a bit of lithium grease and application of the broaching press it was re-assembled. I used the existing M28x1 locking nut: examining the male thread on the shaft the 'damage' was actually an intentional scallop taken out to receive the deformed nut as a locking device. Adjusting for 'reasonable' drag and pre-load brought the nut up remarkably close to where it had been, and I secured it with three pops with my large centre punch (inherited from my Grandfather who was a mill wright)

Stealing an ER32 cap nut from some spare tooling for my Beaver Partsmaster made the job complete. Just the 90 degree one to tackle some time in the future.

awemawson:
The other day when I was experimenting with threading cycles, the motor was accelerating to max revs and decelerating, all very impressive, but doing it a few times I managed to trip the 32 amp three phase breaker in my workshop distribution panel. Also feeling the 2.5 mm 5 core 'SY' cable that fed he lathe, it was distinctly warm  hot  :bugeye:

When I came to power the machine up 'just one more time' there was a big bang and a puff of smoke from the cable clamp on the 32 amp plug. Investigation showed that the insulation of the cores had softened, bringing the wires into intimate electron passing closeness  :bang:

Now using this feed was always an interim solution, only intended for initial testing - I'd intended to upgrade. Obviously now was the time ! The 32 amp type B MCB was wired to the 32 amp Commando socket in 4 mm 'singles' cables in ducting, rated at 32 amps.

So I hatched a plan - running 6 mm Steel Wire Armoured (SWA) cable (rated 53 amps) round the workshop ending up on a 63 amp Commando Plug & Socket thence running in 6 mm SY flexible cable (rated 42 amps) to the machine. But also to upgrade the breaker to a 50 amp 'Type D' motor rated one.

I put out a plea for cable and plugs and sockets, but to my embarrassment found I already had cable rescued during the site clearance for the Tractor Shed, and a box of 63 amp commando plugs and socket that I've no idea where they came from  :bang: (plonker as I'd already ordered some on ebay)

So getting it all together needed a few things. The big Commando Plugs use 'PG29' threads or Panzergewinde threads (*) and my SWA terminations are M20 x 1.5 mm standard conduit so an adaptor bush was needed. No local electrical factors carried them, so I made one on the manual lathe. The cable , socket and plug are beefy things needing a hefty mounting plate, so I cut one on the Plasma Table.

Then threading massively stiff SWA cable round the over crowded workshop and fixing it required much emptying of shelves etc and quite a bit of ingenuity - that stuff is alive and just waiting to pounce and knock expensive tooling over when you're at the other end of the coil up a ladder and unable to stop it  :bang:

Anyway, cable up, entry made into the Distribution box, and made off across steelwork trusses to where a pair of empty holes were just asking for a mounting plate to be bolted on for the 63A socket.

Meanwhile I fixed a 'riser' from the machine up to socket level (made from pedestrian barrier bits - thanks Pete) and found a way through various internal ducts and cabinets to minimise the external cable run, fixing to the ceiling of the main electrical box using sticky Ty-Wrap pads reinforced with a nut and bolt to prevent pull-off. (again thanks Pete for the pads). I also fixed a short bit of Din rail to take terminations for the Earth and Neutral  cables as this machine had none (I ALWAYS run a neutral when wiring, even to wall switches - you never know when you'll need it!)


(* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panzergewinde )

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