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The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)

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awemawson:
Today the bits arrived to mend one of the Powered Tools. I'd diss-assembled it a few days ago, revealing a pair of rather nice opposed pre-loaded taper roller bearings taking the main load, and a needle roller bearing supporting the drive shaft, with seals at both ends.

The taper roller bearing was seized solid and the rollers rusted , so I assume the the seal at that end had failed. However the (rather expensive looking) slim taper roller bearings were in good order.

I'd had a bit of a mare getting the old taper roller bearing out - drifting from the outside was the only way but the angles were too steep. I thought about making a puller and slide hammer, but looking on eBay I could see that it just wasn't worth the effort. A nicely cased set of bearing inner extractors and slide hammer were mine for £18.90 including post. OK Chinese but probably no worse than I'd have made myself, and they will come in handy in the future. The extractor worked faultlessly, needle bearing outer removed so I could measure up, and an online order placed which is what arrived this morning.

1st September today so first I had to cut the field hedges with the Twose Fail (not allowed to do it before 1st Sept, and this time of year things very quickly get too wet to put the machine on the ground. A few hours later - (I hate driving the flail tractor, it bounces all over the place!) and I'm able to get back in the workshop and re-assemble the Powered tooling.

Simple enough - gently tap the well oiled seals and bearing back into place, lubricate it with high melting point lithium grease, pop the shaft and collet chuck back in and tighten a few screws -" job's a good 'un "

I've decided not to modify the drive dogs on the powered tooling to suit the lathe, but rather to modify the lathe to suit the powered tooling. My logic being, these Baruffaldi tools are quite rare but do surface at times, whereas the genuine Beaver ones I've never seen and probably never will. So when the time comes I will remove the lathe tool drive shaft and dog and make a replacement longer one to fit these tools.

awemawson:
...continued

awemawson:
I had a free couple of hours this morning, so I decided to attack the second Baruffaldi Powered ER32 collet chuck. I'd taken the precaution of ordering two sets of oil seals and needle roller bearings so should have been equipped for war !

Taking this one apart revealed that the needle roller bearing was actually in very good condition, but the pair of opposed taper roller bearings were locked up solidly. They slide onto the shaft and are retained and adjusted by the usual nut arrangement that would usually have a tab washer or some other device to stop it unscrewing.

This one looked to have been attacked with a cold chisel mangling the nut into the shaft thread. Problem was, the shaft has a 36 mm hex flat behind the collet nut thread, and the closer nut thread is greater than 36 mm, so any spanner would need to be thinner than 9.5 mm to fit. All my 36 mm spanners are big fat things, so the job took a slight detour into making a spanner.

I decided rather than make a conventional spanner shape, I'd make a plate that I could firmly grip in the vice, as it would also support the shaft as I worked on it.

Usual thing, draw it in Autocad, push it though SheetCAM, cut it on the plasma table using MACH3 - and again as usual the Plasma Table did an excellent job. A minimal bit of clean up with a file and we were good to go.

So, into the vice and now I can use the hook spanner to good effect unscrewing the nut - by this time the bearings had freed up and were turning smoothly. I'm running out of time (Need to be presentable for a BBQ with friends for lunch) so I will leave removing the YL-TIMKEN-X-32006X bearings for inspection later. But I did find that they are available on the web at £14 each)

. . .to be continued . .

seadog:
Looking at the nut and the cut-out at the top of the thread, it looks to me as though peening is the correct method of locking it, just not done very neatly in this case.

awemawson:
I think it's been reworked previously, and as you say the peening has not been done very neatly. The nut is 28 mm x 1 mm pitch, which doesn't seem to be a common one (other than on scooter clutches !). I'll probably re-use the original, but re-making would be reasonably easy.

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