Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

Camlock chucks

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chipenter:
Have a look at Tonys lathes site for camlock info http://www.lathes.co.uk/latheparts/page12.html .

philf:
Hi Ade,

Have a look at http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=90112 for an idea of how much work is involved.

I wouldn't want a lathe without a camlock fitting fwiw.

Good Luck.

Phil.

AdeV:
Thanks all  :thumbup:

That ME thread suggests it's not all THAT hard to do, which is cool. And I have a die sink eroder to cut the square drive with  :beer:  :zap:  :palm:

Now my only concern is the depth a camlock backplate will add to the spindle nose; switching the pins to the backplate wouldn't work (obviously) as there's no way to mount the cam lock mechanism in the chuck itself... My spindle nose already protrudes further than most taper lock or threaded types, so the camlock needs to mount as far back as possible. This might restrict me to 3 pins (a D1-5 looks like it'd be a better fit for the size chucks I want to run, but until I've played around with some CAD, I'm not sure if I could make it all fit properly. I don't mind drilling some clearance holes in the Edgwick spindle flange to allow the camlock pins to come through the back of the backplate/mounting flange, but they need to be out of the way of the three mounting holes. I don't want to remove the flange from the Edgwick completely, just in case I utterly wreck it. Mind you, I guess I do have a complete spare headstock..... must check to see if that's got the spindle in it...

mattinker:
Before you change chucks,maybe you could improve them by grinding the jaws; I seem to be having trouble attaching an image. The idea is to make three blocks that fit between the jaws so that the chuck can be closed tight and still allow grinding of what are usually the clamping surfaces. the holes and slots allow a little spring. You will need some kind of internal grinder to run this on the lathe!

sparky961:
a
--- Quote from: mattinker on October 29, 2017, 08:15:41 AM ---The idea is to make three blocks that fit between the jaws so that the chuck can be closed tight and still allow grinding of what are usually the clamping surfaces. the holes and slots allow a little spring.

--- End quote ---

Excellent tidbit.  I've seen it done with a ring in the back, but the ring gets in the way of most chucks.  This method wouldn't get in the way at all.  I'm assuming the idea is to turn it SLOW to avoid throwing the blocks.

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