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Top 10 mods for Mini lathe please ?
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Buell:
Ok so it's completely in Bits now....just the way I like it.

Step 1.. Tapered bearings...Any preference...Fag...Skf..Timken etc ?  Do I have to modify anything else as dimension slightly different ?

Step 2 .. Brass taper Gibs with screws adjustment

Step 3.. Polish ways and clean as best as Poss..

Step 4 Tail stock quick clamp

Step 5.. Slides sort out all adjustments etc..

Eat Xmas dinner
John Rudd:

--- Quote from: Buell on December 02, 2016, 03:05:39 PM ---Ok so it's completely in Bits now....just the way I like it.

Step 1.. Tapered bearings...Any preference...Fag...Skf..Timken etc ?  Do I have to modify anything else as dimension slightly different ?




Eat Xmas dinner

--- End quote ---

Step 1..... Buy decent taper rollers.....no preference from your chosen names...
You will need to polish the journals where the orig bearings sat on the shaft....If you remember the bearings were tight on the shaft and the casting....( werent they?) the new bearing inner races need to slide on the spindle journals to achieve correct preload....so polish the journals with some fine emery until the inner races are a tight push fit....dont take off too much, remember you only need to polish them....
The spacers on the shaft will need replacing, the new bearings are a different thickness to the old ones. I used some 6086 ally bar, plastic is no good for taper bearing preload, material stability....

Rework so far should have you ready to reassemble the headstock...by the way, it might pay you to get metal gears instead of the plastic ones.....( something often overlooked in a rebuild like this)
Buell:
Appreciate those answers.. Didn't think about the external plastic covers being plastic ! Ahh..whats the deal with the changing over to metal gears ? I have heard The noise factor...The fact that something than give rather than it all being rigid in the drive chain. also am i right in thinking that although you change the main Gears for steel the smaller ones still end up being plastic ? so in all that you still have some Plastic ? or you can replace all ?

Swarf North:
Nachi tapered roller bearings have been reputed (in a letter years ago, on the Arc Euro site?) to be excellent.  I don't know of any information comparing these with the other brands you mention, though.

Grant
Buell:
Gone with the Skf as these are the ones on My bike and have had no Bother with them in 6 years headstock.

I'm looking at the headstock today and I'm understanding the design of it...

So new taper bearings go in and the exact position of where they end up on the craft is determined by the plastic spacers that are fitted at the end of the shaft ? Reason  I ask is obviously to understand, but the Journal (if that's the right word) that both bearings are positioned on are some 2mm+ than the bearing.  So dependant on thickness of the spacer /s before the two locking nuts....determines exactly how much of the shaft is sticking out toward the chuck ? Or Am I missing something simple.

If I don't ask I won't learn...sorry if it's basic.
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