The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
Thwaites 2 Ton Two Cylinder Dumper Running On One Cylinder
awemawson:
It is basically a little hinge, one part fixed to the end of one rack, and the other when folded down carries an adjustable bolt that presses against the 'overload bracket'. The hinge is a clevis and tenon, both of which were very worn
(This 'hinge' is folded up when cold starting)
awemawson:
Now the clevis part is available for £27 but not the other bit, but why buy when you can make?
I decided that there was enough 'meat' left in the old clevis to open the slot up to 6 mm, re-bore it's pivot hole (also now 6 mm), but to make an entirely new 'tenon' to suit the new size of the slot.
All then I needed to make was an over size pivot pin (6 mm x 18 mm) - I also reproduced the 'wiring hole' that lets the adjusting bolt be wired to the flappy bit of the hinge to stop it vibrating loose. I just LOVE drilling 1.5 mm holes 1/2" deep - not !!!!
awemawson:
So when the rain stops I need to delve further into the engine - there are two covers, one below each injector pump, that (should !!) reveal the adjustment that sets the timing of the injection for each pump.
Essentially there is an adjuster that sets how high the pump plunger sits on it's cam follower. By removing the output valve on each pump and setting the fly wheel to the correct point for injection, the adjuster can be tweaked to 'just' stop fuel flowing (gravity from tank) - apparently this is called 'spill timing' and is common on these sorts of engines.
But first I've got to master and sort out all the levers and fixings that are mounted on the rear cover
appletree:
Until my dad died 22 years ago we had a plant hire family firm which we started in 1972, we had lots of Dumpers, Pumps, concrete mixers with Petter singles and twins, Lister singles twins triples and 4s. I was going to tell you about the setup on PH series engines. As I thought i’ll tell him XYZ I further read the post and what I was going to say was in front of me. Invariably there is a strong cylinder regarding starting, seems a bit odd as nothing obvious is standing out yet.
DavidA:
You could make up a simplified version of the differential compression tester.
Remove the injectors. Make an adapter that will allow you to connect an air line to the cylinders (one at a time) then, with the piston held at top dead centre, pressurise the cylinder.
You can then listen for any air leaks from the inlet and exhaust ports. Also listen for the sound of air getting into the crankcase past the pistons.
Just a thought.
Dave.
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