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metal bender

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vtsteam:
Nice project. I'm watching this one!  :coffee:

jcs0001:
vtsteam - hope it's not a disappointment :D

Progress today.  The "recipe" called for several round forms (wheels) - 1, 1 1/2, 2,3,4 and 5 in. in diameter.  I located a piece of hardwood that I had laminated some time ago.  It's quite consistent and hard as a brick so should be good.

Cut rounds on the bandsaw - except for the 5 in. round as there was insufficient width to the block.



Turned them on my metal lathe using a steel cutting hss bit - worked well and kept the sides very parallel.  Mandrel made out of a 1/2 in. bolt with the head removed.  Washers keep the blank away from the chuck so I can reach to the end of the blank without conflict:



One of the bigger ones about to get rounded in the lathe:



I had previously drilled them with a 1/2 in. bit.

And the forms complete and with finish:



I'll leave the finish to harden for at least overnight then try some bending.  Doubt I'll need the 5 in. form but I can easily make it if it is ever needed.

Just a hint regarding finishing - I had used this years ago but forgot.  Often I finishing small projects with oil based varathane and use a throw away cheap bristle brush.  I buy them at Lee Valley by the dozen.  Anyway I don't like the waste so recalled that if you wrap the brush in a plastic bag (part of a grocery bag works) and put it in the freezer it will stay soft for at least a day or two.  I put this one in the freezer last night and used it twice today - will see how long it lasts before hardening.

John.

vtsteam:
I do the wrap in plastic bag or aluminum foil trick all the time, but have to admit I've never put the in the freezer. I wonder how long they will last that way?

My other trick mentioned elsewhere here, with oil based paints is to use a small amount of vegetable oil to mix with the leftover paint on the brush (after wiping the excess off on newspaper). Then a squirt of just common dish soap will emulsify the oil/paint mix. I rub that together to make sure all the bristles are coated. Then just water rinse cleans the brush, just like acrylic latex. I get bright clean brushes, and have used only household food grade materials, not smelly, unhealthy, and expensive solvents.


BTW, that looks pretty nice! I'd think it was a wooden game board of some sort, if I didn't know otherwise.  :beer:

jcs0001:
vtsteam:

Thanks for the further info re: brushes.  It was really bugging me to get one use out of them even if they are inexpensive.  With most projects one has to wait till the top dries before doing the bottom so 2 brushes end up being used.  Will try your solution as I also don't like having to buy and use thinners etc.  We have an environmental fee (before taxes are added) and it can really mount up and I really hate waste.

Onward.  The finish is dry enough to bend metal.  I was missing a hook from one end of a rubber strap so found some scrap (0.185 in diameter round steel) and using the 1 in. diameter form managed to bend it into a decent hook.  The smaller close hook on the other end was bent between two pins and then closed a bit in the vice.





With that success under my belt I went looking for victims to "bend out of shape".  First was a piece of 5/16 steel round bar.  It was bent around the 3 in. diameter form.  It was a good pull to bend it but the jig did not complain at all.  I flattened the top portion (hook side and opposite) with a file and drilled a couple of holes. 

Next was a piece of 3/8 in. square bar stock (steel).  It was also bent around the 3 in. form.  Again it was a good pull but no problems with the jig.

In the interest of experimenting and contributing to our collective knowledge I pursuaded my better half to allow for the purchase of a length of flatbar out of our budget.  (I jest as my wife is very tolerant of my hobbies).  Decided that 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. flatbar would work well so bought 20 feet.

Once home I cut a piece long enough for two hooks and bent one end around the 2 in. form and the other end around the 3 in. form.  The piece was then cut in half and the ends cleaned up.  Two holes were drilled in the upper portion and voila, two very useful hooks were made.

A photo of the bends done so far:



Top left outside is the 5/16 round bar hook, inside it is one shown yesterday (7/8 in. x 1/8 in).  Top right is the 3/8 in. square bar, bottom left is the 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. bent around the 2 in. form and to the right of that is the 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. flatbar bent around the 3 in. form.  The piece on the bottom right is the .185 in round bar made into an S hook.

There are a few things that can be done to clean up the appearance of the hooks.  Dipping them in liquid insulation (plastic dip) is one option as are painting them. 

The jig will be very handy for any number of small metal items.  It does not take up much room and I found the pins were nicely spaced so that there always seemed to be a suitable pair of holes to use depending upon the thickness of the piece to be bent.

The 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. stock is excellent for bending and I doubt that there would be problems with 1 in. x 1/8 in.  There are limits however and I figure the 3/8 in. square stock is pretty close to that.

I've only scratched the surface as far as making things with this.  It would be easy enough to make two piece decorative shelf brackets, handles for chests, L brackets for reinforcing corners of chests,  etc. etc.  A bit of practice would allow for some really decorative pieces.

I hope this is of some use.  In case anyone wishes to get the plans they were in ShopNotes volume 12, no. 69.

http://www.shopnotes.com/


John.

vtsteam:
Excellent results!!!!!! That's a very nice tool you've made, elegant in simplicity and cost, and looks :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap:

The brush cleaning trick with salad oil and dish detergent works best on oil based enamel paints. I think I have also been successful with polyurethane varnishes, but can't remember for sure. It \works best when you will be putting your brushes away for a long time. When it's just a short time, ie. hours between coats, I use the aluminum foil method. Then when done with the project, I do the oil and soap method.

The oil and soap method only works with fresh paint that hasn't dried. If the paint gets too thick and nearly hard in the brush, I sometimes do use a small bit of thinner first to liquefy it, then finish up with oil and soap for a clean brush ready to put away.

I think even cheap brushes get better with use. The loose bristles stop appearing and the ends feather some. I actually like inexpensive Chinese bristle brushes.

Again, great project!

ps dish soap also works on clothes! Many times when I've had oil paint drip on something cloth that's important and washable, I quickly rub into the spot some dish soap. It emulsifies the paint, and prevents it from staining the fibers permanently, or drying. If you do this with thinners, it will only spread the spot and make a bigger one before drying. With dish soap rubbed in, you just launder the piece normally and the spot is washed out completely. Again you have to catch it immediately, before the paint dries. This has saved many a potential "domestic tragedy" for me, and even made me a hero at times......on a very local basis!

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