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| PeterE builds a 3d Printer |
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| nrml:
I don't think heat from the extruder itself will be an issue, as the E3D V6 is superbly designed. The cold side of the heat-break is barely warm to touch even after prolonged prints. I haven't printed with ABS yet because I don't trust the printed black PLA parts on my X carriage and extruder to stand up to radiant heat from the hot bed at 110 celsius. A rebuild with ABS-polycarbonate parts and better hardware is in the pipeline at some point. At present my thoughts are that a new build from scratch is going to be more fun and educational than improving the kit I already have. Buying a kit was a bit of a double edged sword. The supplied components are just about the cheapest that will function. On the positive side it works and it was an easy way for a complete newbie to gain some understanding of how 3D printers work. I had access to an outstanding build manual and all the electronics came pre-programmed and ready to plug and print. So it was as painless a build as it could possibly be barring the frustration of dealing with poor quality components. |
| PeterE:
Hi nrml, Sounds re-assuring that the extruder nozzle has a good design. That will make my first tries safer - I think ... My plastic parts on my printer is actually ABS all of them so no temp issue there. I understand your choice to start using a ready-made kit, but from my point-of-view the build has so far been vary easy. The principles and designs are simple and straightforward. I am just preparing to make the distance pieces from Plexi glass (perspex) which should be quite enough. Oh, and one thing to add. I noticed in the instructions I linked to that the measurement of quite a few of the screws is 6x32 which in metric is best translated to M4 (really M3.5 but those are expensive), and then some of the holes have to be gently broached (with a drill) to M4. BR /Peter |
| nrml:
Just a passing thought.... If you are making the spacer from acrylic, it might be cheaper to buy and easier to cut a thin sheet and glue thin layers together with acetone to get just the right sized spacer. It should also be in theory possible to bond the acrylic to the ABS with acetone. |
| PeterE:
Thanks for your thought! Also my thought actually. I have a suitable piece of Plexi of about 3 mm thickness. two or three layers should do the trick. Bonding with actone would work well from what I heard from my friend at work. |
| PeterE:
The spacer is being printed along with a couple of replacement bits. A little more done today while waiting for idler wheels with bearings (that takes an awful long time from China this time ...). I got tired of waiting to continue the assembly so I quickly turned up two aluminium idlers from a scrap piece I had. Nothing difficult, just a wheel with some flanges and a 4 mm hole through the center. This will do until I get the ones with bearings. This also meant I could go on and fit the toothed belt and give it a first tension. A little fiddly to get the ends through the holes in the mid piece under the table, but nothing out of the ordinary. When that was done the whole Y-movement could be secured to the base by screwing the four threaded pads down through the portal base and into the black base-plate. 16 screws will make it stay I think :thumbup: Also did some cleaning up in the "old computer items" box and found a neate 400 W PC PSU leaving just short of 30 A on the 12 V DC side. I will use that one for powering the printer. Neat thing including power switch and fan and also power for the arduino and others. So the only bits blocking the rest of the assembly are those re-printed bits that will arrive shortly. /Peter |
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