PeterE builds a 3d Printer

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PeterE:
picclock,

Unfortunately I read that you have done all your glass cutting, but I thought that the following could be useful for next time. I hope you don't mind.

I noticed how a proffessional cut a smaller piece of glass without it breaking at the wrong place some time ago when need a piece. He first cut the line and then lifted the pane and put a straight thin rod - think something like an M3 all-thread - right under the cut. Then a small push-down on the waste side and the glass snapped nicely at the cut line. The rod acted like the edge on a folding rig.

/Peter

awemawson:
Dipping the cutting wheel in a very light oil or even diesel, helps enormously cutting glass. Then rather than resting the cut on something hard, use two used match sticks, one at each end of the cut line, and gently press down either side.

picclock:
@PeterE
@Awemason

Thanks for the glass cutting tips. I was using cutting oil (WD40). My best efforts so far have been by tapping the glass on the opposite side of the cut line. You can visually see the crack propagate under the score line. If you propagate the crack too far the piece you are cutting separates and gravity accelerates the needed part towards the scrap bin :bang:.

I will try the bend over a rod/matchsticks trick on some scrap and see if it is more successful. The sheet of mirror glass I am cutting from is quite large, 1.1x0.7 Metres, which makes it more difficult. However it will soon all be in much, much smaller pieces :palm:.

Embarrassingly, my father was a glazier but the magic has not passed on down the gene line.

Best Regards

picclock

PS Just tried the break over rod trick(3mm silver steel), and it works like a charm. Many Thanks :thumbup:

nrml:
Looking very nice indeed. Those direct extruders are very user friendly. Almost zero hassle with set up and tuning.

PeterE:
Back from business trip and into the shop.

@picclock; Good that the trick with the rod works!

@nrml; Good to read that this extruder design is user friendly and easy to tune. Suits a newbie to 3D very well :thumbup:

Got the screw trimmed to keep the head as compact as possible. Put the screw in the lathe and turned the protruding threaded part down to the nut thus forming a new "head".

Re-assembled it looks as above. Used a flash this time to show the hobbed part of the bolt in line with the feed hole in the extruder body.

Time to test fit the extruder to the X carrier - but it comes very close and I have seen that there is a distance piece in some of the descriptions. A piece I don't have, but it is ever so easy to make :-)

The question pops up; How thick should that distance be? I suspect it should be so thick it gives room for the bolt head but not a lot more to avoid too much twisting forces on the two parallell X way bars.

I suppose plexi would be appropriate as replacement for a printed distance piece?

/Peter

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