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| PeterE builds a 3d Printer |
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| awemawson:
It's a bit of a pain panning around that huge image Picclock - any chance that you could reduced it to the 640 x 480 norm :scratch: |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, Thanks for verifying the motors, it seems I have selected something useful. About the weights/loads. I am with you on those issues that is why I doubled the thickness of the portal board in my build. It makes it handle loads better and probably also counteract some of the vibrations together with the thick base. That will, if I think correctly, improve printer accuracy as a whole. I also intend to look into possibilities of lightening the carrier board (200x200x12mm 7-layer plywood) as the glass plate plus the heatbed adds to the weight but also to stability if I get it right. /Peter |
| picclock:
@ awemason Sorry bout picture size - I did not check. @PeterE Trouble with the stepper offset from intended value is that it is not linear, e.g, for a small load initially a large error occurs then as the load increases, error deviation is less per unit. A complete can of worms .. . I wish you every success with your build - looking forward to seeing your first printed plastic. Hope to catch up with your log very soon. At the moment I'm trying top figure out how to make flexible filament less temperature dependent (probably not possible). Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
A small update before some work related travel must be done. I cut out the template to paint the name onto the printer portal using a spray can. I did not succeed very well as the spray lifted the paper template at places and smeared the color, sigh. I think it shows despite having replaced the template for next go. I did not want to redo all the painting so with the template back onto the portal I used the traditional method of dabbing color onto the template. A small piece of washing spunge was used for dabbing and now it worked better - should have done that from start really. This time the missed places was filled with black and the misplaced black did not get worse. When back after travel I will sit down with a smallish brush and fill in the bits that are supposed to be red and that way touch up the whole thing. I hope it will turn out OK. We'll see. The printed parts have turned up! They are made in ABS as that seems to be the best material for structural parts like these. Looking more closely at the bits we can see some flash and that comes from wanting to create a larger surface on the build plate to secure the part better and to get a better precision. I have started to tear the flash away, but to get it really nice I need to use both files and a knife. I want nice smooth bits to work with. As soon as all bits are cleaned up, the assembly will begin. I'll be back! /Peter |
| picclock:
Hi Peter E Good to see that your making progress, and have received your plastic parts. I weighed the Metal Y base and it came in at 302gms bare, the heater board at 164gms. With 3mm glass at another 300 gms + bearings looks like an all up weight of around 800 gms. To which the weight of the plastic must be added. Let me know how your build weights work out. This is quite a mass to move about in an accurate timely fashion using a thin (stretchy ?) belt and relatively low power motor. I am still completing other work after the house move, but hope to begin assembly on mine soon. Best Regards picclock |
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