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| picclock:
Hi PeterE Good luck with your build !!. Will you be doing a project log ? Will be interested to see what snags you encounter. I have most of the parts for my I3 now. A couple of things worth mentioning. I have sourced some 16 tooth GT2 pulleys for the steppers. These will improve acceleration, especially on the heavy Y axis, though you may have to change the motor position to get a straight belt run. Also have the motors. Force produced by motor is directly proportional to magnetism produced by current. As all motors are inductive, current rises slowly, so speed of rise is controlled by voltage and Inductance of windings. Higher inductance results in more torque but slower operation, so there is a best compromise somewhere in there. I intend to run the drivers at 24V as this will halve the time for the motor to produce torque, also it is the design sweet spot for the drivers I am using, DRV8825's. Have decided to alter bed design as shown in sketch below. I found good youtube series of videos by a chap called Thomas Sanladerer, this one about pid tuning marlin : Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, Have been thinking about a build log, but I have to be very clear that it will take time. I still work for a living which includes travelling at scheduled times so I think it would be very useful if I were not alone :poke: My log would be called "PeterE Builds a 3D printer". Perhaps you could make a similar one because I too think it will be nice to compare ways forward. But where to put it? In this folder or under Projects???? My pulleys are 20T as part of this kit I picked up from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3d-printer-reprap-prusa-i3-movement-kit-GT2-belt-pulley-608zz-lm8uu-624zz-/181651872211?hash=item2a4b4b99d3 Felt like a fair price to me and I got all the important bits in one go. When it comes to first setup I will follow the "standard" to begin with. This is learning on my part so keeping with standard makes it easier to acquire. Then I may well do some of your tweaks to enhance the whole thing. This also means I am starting out with the A4988 drivers which are part of this electronic kit - Hope it will work as intended because I think it was a silly low price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-RAMPS-1-4-Kit-Mega-2560-5x-A4988-LCD-2004-Controller-For-RepRap-/191233668287?hash=item2c866a34bf When it comes to instructions I have found two which seems good, especially the one referenced below! This fellow also has an interesting idea of placing the Y axis motor opposite to standard - a thought to contemplate a bit but sounds interesting. http://www.dragonflydiy.com/p/building-3d-printer.html I also have some ideas about a new bed design but it is not finished. BR /Peter |
| picclock:
Hi peterE That electronics kit was a steal. Only other thing you may want to add is the graphics display because that allows you to download a file to an sd card and print it standalone. Having the y motor at the back and the home position at the rear also are both things I will try, then when it goes home at the end the model is pushed to the front ready to remove. I have just started looking at some of the parts and have run into an issue which I had encountered before. I pushed the linear bearings into the z axis plastic holders and found that the smooth motion degraded to lumps and bumps. I took one of the bearings out and the other one was still nbg. Then I remembered my previous experience where this happened. It was on an industrial pick and place robot where the hole for the bearing was out of round. Just pushing the bearing into the holder is enough to distort the case and destroy the smooth motion. should be OK with the tye wrapped ones but the z axis pairs will need the holders sorting if they are the same as mine. I was making new parts anyway so not a bodyblow, but a bit of a surprise. btw, the two z axis bearings can be replaced by one LM8LUU - still have to have a gentle holder though. I was thinking of putting my assembly attempts in project logs - cos thats the right place. Will probably call it picclocks attempt at an I3 3d printer. Should cause no confusion :lol: Will not start log or build proper until after I return from holiday on the 17th September. Best regards picclock PS Just had a thought. You can program and check out the Arduino card just using the power from the usb lead. I did it to check for functionality but I was surprised at how long the compiler (Arduino 1.6.5) took to compile the marlin code ~4.5 mins. I thought it had crashed but it just takes a long time. I7 64bit Windows 7. The other thing is that it recompiles to upload even if it has successfully compiled before. |
| PeterE:
The graphics display was included! At the top in the picture! /Peter |
| Brass_Machine:
Peter & Picclock, I will be watching your build threads. I plan on building a 3D printer sometime in the next year... Eric |
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