The Shop > Tools
The Eddgwick arrived!
awemawson:
Good work Matthew :bow:
It must have had a wallop to bend that pear handle to that artistic shape - they are often just in on a taper so I'm surprised it didn't detach
mattinker:
Andrew, It must as you say have been a "wallop"! The shaft was bent slightly over about an inch, the part with the handle was sheared off. The pear handle is threaded on!
Regards, Matthew
vtsteam:
You're working fast Matt! :dremel: Now a little heat in the right place and that walloped handle will bend back into shape with mere taps. :clap:
Nice to see things put back in order. :beer:
mattinker:
--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 14, 2015, 11:35:33 PM ---You're working fast Matt! :dremel: Now a little heat in the right place and that walloped handle will bend back into shape with mere taps. :clap:
--- End quote ---
Steve,
I'm not sure about working fast, here's a not very good before after pic. I added about 1 5/16" or 35mm in length which didn't take me more than an hour or two's welding, I used 4mm diameter rods which means the metal goes down fast. I find building up something like this much quicker and easier than constructional welding. It is probably scary to launch in and build things up, but it can be really worthwhile and I'd encourage people to try! For the end of this lead-screw, there is no load on it at all. The untouched part is the bearing surface, the second third is where the dial rides and the new part is only to hold the handle!
Regards, Matthew
vtsteam:
That seems fast to me!
I've been thinking about your bed wear question Matt, and your mentioning grinding. I'm guessing the wear is beyond what scraping would accomplish in any kind of reasonable amount of time, but I'm not a professional scraper, and don't know how fast those guys can get a long bed down. Maybe better tools than I had (carbide, etc) can move faster than I do.
But if wear is really serious, then I guesss grinding, and/or Turciting (which I have absolutely no knowledge of other than Fergus occasional mentions here) is the solution most often resorted to.
Any grinding with a portable/DIY jig will duplicate whatever accuracy the jig has, so that would be the focus in designing one. If followed by scraping, then the required tolerance would only need to be enough to get it to the level where scraping could then take over and finish off. Grinding and scraping the ways though will alter other relationships to the various sliding parts and headstock, and these too would probably need attention. It's likely a whole lathe set of corrections and adjustments would follow. Not beyond doing, but probably part of the whole job needed.
One other thing though, which I don't mean in any kind of defeatest way, is learning to work with an older lathe as a specialized machinist skill set to produce good work. So I mean it in a positive way. Here is a brief discussion of that -- which may prove helpful for many of us -- those who have older lathes and lack the immediate means to correct them. It did for me:
http://www.eztram.com/helpfulhints_results.asp?Hints_ID=13
ps. though very helpful it is a bit hard to read straight through without enough paragraphs! :scratch:
For something like that, I like to select copy and paste the text into a word processor and add paragraph spacing to make it easier to read. I usually then save a copy of useful tips like that, because I know I'll come back to them.
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