The Shop > Tools
The Eddgwick arrived!
mattinker:
--- Quote from: RobWilson on June 13, 2015, 03:17:12 AM ---Nice one Matthew :clap: :thumbup:
It's good to see the lathe fined a new home and given a new lease of life :dremel:
Rob
--- End quote ---
Thanks Rob!!
mattinker:
--- Quote from: RussellT on June 13, 2015, 05:37:42 AM ---The lathe looks OK - a bit better in your photos than the original listing. I'm curious to know - what's the verdict on the cross slide hand wheel?
Is it safe to assume that transport cost more than the lathe?
Russell
--- End quote ---
The verdict isn't completely out on the cross-slide. I haven't dismantled it yet, but as far as I can see, it needs a touch of straightening and either welding a stub on the end or building up with weld and machining. The hand-wheel is in good shape and the broken stub has already been removed.
You safely assumed right! I got a good deal on the Transport, but it was still more expensive than the lathe at €348 including VAT the lathe was €212 at the current exchange rate. I'm pleased, that's less than a similar lathe here without transport!
Regards, Matthew.
mattinker:
Some thoughts,
As the lathe has no reverse, it would be extremely difficult to cut metric threads as is. I have everything I need to set up a reversing switch, so it's a question of time.
The suds pump is missing so it looks like it's going to be an indoor fountain pump!
The bed wear is quite high, I haven't measured it yet, but I'm having thoughts about making a grinding jig to regrind them.
Any thoughts would be welcome! Regards, Matthew
AdeV:
Hi Matt,
Great to see the old girl made it! Looking forward to seeing some chips made...
Making a screw adapter to take the backplate shouldn't be too taxing? If you can cut a piece of steel to fit the bolt-up flange, then simply machine a nose with some threads on it, and you're good to go. I was lucky, I got a proper Edgwick backplate that bolts straight on. I've only used it once, though, now I've got a 3-jaw that fits & is reasonably accurate, I mostly use that.
Regarding metric screwcutting - the gearbox will handle that, and the screw cutting dial that should be fitted will work properly, so you don't need a reverse. Just disconnect the half nut, run back to the start, and use the dial to re-engage. Or just use dies like I do :beer:
Oil - Any decent hydraulic oil should do. I use this stuff: http://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25_40&products_id=86 I use that on the ways & tailstock as well, although having more recently bought some proper slideway oil, I'll probably switch to that for the bed/tailstock.
mattinker:
--- Quote from: AdeV on June 14, 2015, 05:07:19 AM ---Hi Matt,
Great to see the old girl made it! Looking forward to seeing some chips made...
Making a screw adapter to take the backplate shouldn't be too taxing? If you can cut a piece of steel to fit the bolt-up flange, then simply machine a nose with some threads on it, and you're good to go. I was lucky, I got a proper Edgwick backplate that bolts straight on. I've only used it once, though, now I've got a 3-jaw that fits & is reasonably accurate, I mostly use that.
Regarding metric screwcutting - the gearbox will handle that, and the screw cutting dial that should be fitted will work properly, so you don't need a reverse. Just disconnect the half nut, run back to the start, and use the dial to re-engage. Or just use dies like I do :beer:
Oil - Any decent hydraulic oil should do. I use this stuff: http://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=25_40&products_id=86 I use that on the ways & tailstock as well, although having more recently bought some proper slideway oil, I'll probably switch to that for the bed/tailstock.
--- End quote ---
Thanks AdeV,
As you say, making adapter plates shouldn't be to challenging! They are pretty certainly Whitworth, which the gearbox will handle fine! I'm not sure that I agree about the dial to re-engage metric threads! A metric lead screw has a different type of thread dial, this is because they are not fractional, from what I can gather, three gears are required instead of one to make a metric thread dial work. As this is a 4TPI lead-screw, geared to produce metric threads, the ration may not be repeatable! There is a brass plate on the carriage, photo below, pretty badly damaged, the last two lines read,
"For any "illegible odd?" Whitworth pitches and all metric threads, keep guide screw nut engaged and return saddle by reversing feed clutch."
I hadn't deciphered the plate when I wrote about reversing. Do you have the plate? Is it legible? It would be nice to be able to know which marks on the thread dial correspond with what!
Thanks for the info about the oil, I'm new to this kind of gearbox.
Regards, Matthew
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