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vtsteam:
Rob, would you make your own  version or would it be somewhat period, like the machine in the photograph? Or a replica?

Lew, interesting to hear of your experiences with your own files.

Andrew, I have never tried to restore a file before, but have heard of that or similar methods. Maybe I'll try it on my dullest 14" since I'll shortly have 4 of them. I have wondered how much rust people meant, since it could vary from a paintcoat overnight, to a year in the garden with pitting.

I guess it would depend on how fine a file it was, too. Mine are very coarse. I suppose that the way it works is to remove the surface of the teeth all over, first by rust, then by removing the rust.

Ideally there would be a way of attacking the tooth from the sides faster than the tip, Removing the tip would tend to dull it. Some slight (not total) resist method on the tip of the teeth might be more helpful than the stock method.

A recently used but old file would probably tend to have active removal happening more at the exposed metal tips than in the patinated valleys, which is the opposite of what is wanted, I think. Cleaning, definitely important, as you say.

RobWilson:

--- Quote from: vtsteam on June 02, 2015, 03:28:57 PM ---Rob, would you make your own  version or would it be somewhat period, like the machine in the photograph? Or a replica?



--- End quote ---


I really like the original Steve and have a  pipe dream  about making a faithful copy , down to using only hand tools to make it  :loco: .


Grimshaw  Shop Kinks 1911   ISBN 4' 3"  1/8

--- Quote ---File -Sharpening .  A propos of files and their work , it is strange that an American invention ,the sand- blast , has been taken hold of so well in England  :wave:  and on the continent of Europe for file-sharpening , and seams to have been practically neglected on this side ,in the same connection . If you look at a new file you will find that there are on the ends of the teeth ,certain small-hooks , and these correspond to the wire edge  on a knife or a razor. Of course they are not desirable ; but there is no way of making file teeth with a chisel ,particularly if held by machine , without having these same hooks .
The sandblast cuts files without such wire edges ,and re-cuts old ones better than they can be done by hand; and many English  establishments have their new files given a little sand blasting before they are put into service ,the object being to give them a better cutting edge than the makers turn them out with .
--- End quote ---






May be worth a wee bit of experimentation . 


Rob

Jonny:
Quality files are extremely hard to come by the last 11 years, nothing cuts or lasts as long nowadays even from same producers.
Used to get through a 3 sq 12" bastard every 3 days that would have lasted shy of two weeks.

Had loads of specialist files even S shaped, even modified brand new ones for one purpose.

Very true you will never file flat with a flat file, most have a belly to them.

Considering the rate we went through files and cost of the best files obtainable worldwide we tried several exercises in having them recut. Actual recuts tend to last 1hr to 6hrs that brand new lasted 3 days and 1/3 cost of new file.
Acid refurbing had a scrap rate of around 60%, the 40% returned you had to sift through to find one that cuts even though physically looked good ok for a couple of hours at best. In the 40% returned many had not got the sharp peaks, some even lost the sharp undercut looking like a series of roundovers typical with acids. ie certain areas will go before other areas, fine if its the undercut but not on cutting edge.

Arbalist:
I don't use files as much as I used to but these look interesting.

https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/woodworking-metalworking/rasps-files/files-for-metal-working/704405/glardon-vallorbe-valtitan-flat-file-cut-0?ffRefKey=16PYV9Z9c

Will_D:
So ignoring all the specialality shape(round, half round etc) lets consider a flat file:

Hand or flat files have two identical faces, the edges may be safe, square, or rounded.

My Grandad told me to put a blob of yellow paint on one of the faces. This face is ONLY used for brass or bronze. Other side is used for ferrous materials.

This can also be applied to other shapes within reason.

Also (as mentioned above) use chalk to stop "pinning", file card does what it says on the tin (or card)

I have also heard about chrome plating files to increase cut-ability and wear resistance!

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