The Shop > Tools
Files Ordered
vtsteam:
I've been using the same 2 larger files for a few years -- trying to preserve them by using a grinder or lesser files on rough castings first, where necessary to get below sand and scale. My best file is used last, the duller of the two gets first dibs. But zinc alloy and brass work lately have pointed out the fact that it's probably time to move on to a new one.
My two most often used files are both big 14" flat double-cut Nicholson bastards, and not easily replaced, at least locally. Online prices seem to put similar files in the 25+ dollar range, even on Ebay, not including shipping, which in several ads brought the total to $40.
However, I was able to find a Nicholson catalog online, and through that, get a part number for the file. A new lookup on Ebay with that number found them available from Zoro tools for $14, plus free shipping if I made up a $50 order. So I plunked down for two of them. Looking through the Zoro products available I found a few useful items so I added a tube of Dykem Hi-Spot engineer's blue (for scraping), a bottle of Loctite 860, and a commercial size pack of JBWeld epoxy, all totalling almost exactly $50.
I realize files aren't the most glamorous shop tools to report here on the forum, but I sure can take a lot of metal off easily with those big files, and when dealing with castings they really make life eaasier. They also work extremely well for quickly bringing a surface to flat before final filing, scraping or finishing. Or conversely for rounding square corners with a few strokes.
I do use a lot of other kinds of files, and finer ones, too. But these are real workhorses in my tiny shop, and surprisingly versatile. They have also outlasted many other tools, though you'd think they'd dull quickly, considering what they have been used on. I do try to treat them well. I file in one direction. They hang from the wall, I clean then if needed (seldom since they are coarse) with a card.
Both my old files have a very slight bow, but I use this to good effect where needed to take off different parts of a surface, and where I want a true flat, I reverse them every few strokes, check frequently and adjust as needed. A common beginner mistake is to assume that flat files are true flat and just file away to finish hoping to flatten a part. When checked, disappointment sets in. Happened to me early on until I realized how to compensate.
Anyway, I'm kinda excited to get these in the mail. I know they will make a difference.
RobWilson:
Nothing wrong with being in love with your files Steve :dremel:
What you need is one of these mate :D
And make your own files ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I may have a bash at making one , I do fined the machine interesting ,not to mention its quality craftsmanship , probably forged ,chipped and filed .
Rob
Lew_Merrick_PE:
So, (1) card your files well & regularly and (2) chalk or oil them when working. Having served my apprenticeship under an old German Guild Master (he was always addressed as Herr-Meister), I have somewhere in the close neighborhood of 350 lbs of files (and about 200 lbs of scrapers) in my tool chests. I have had some success in recovering worn files using the sulfuric acid dip approach -- just enough success to keep me trying it when one gets truly worn. [If that fails, the result gets placed in the scraper-source material box.]
Excepting the bench files that "live" at strategic locations around my shop, my files store are a set of (1/4 inch) masonite boxes with dividers that allow each file to "live" in its own slot. The boxes are sized such that they fit in larger (hinged lid) boxes so that all my (say) 10 inch files live in (several of) the larger (and identified) boxes. The larger boxes in turn "live" in a wheeled cabinet such that each has a pigeon hole that allows visibility of the identification and "pull-out" access.
After all, they were known as German milling machines during my apprenticeship days...
awemawson:
A cheap and cheerful 'recovery' for an old file is to let it rust (degrease first to get a uniform rusting) then de-rust it in citric acid solution. This has the advantage of avoiding the sulphuric or nitric acid compounds often recommended which aren't too well behaved anyway about a workshop.
Most of my files each have a short length of plastic plumbing pipe to live in, fixed vertically in a shallow tray fixed to the wall behind my bench to stop them damaging each other
Lew_Merrick_PE:
--- Quote from: awemawson on June 02, 2015, 02:31:01 PM ---Most of my files each have a short length of plastic plumbing pipe to live in, fixed vertically in a shallow tray fixed to the wall behind my bench to stop them damaging each other
--- End quote ---
I used such an approach for storage until I realized there was not enough hanging space in my shop!
About half of my files have safe edges ground on them for tasks such a filing to a shoulder or filing dovetail slots.
One thing I miss is that there used to be companies (such as Portland File) that made true cylindrical files to standard diameters. I only have a few left anymore...
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