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vintageandclassicrepairs:
Hi Steve,
I have been following your build with interest and admiration :wave:

On the making of the tailstock I happened to notice that the thread on one of my lathes is a seperate phosphor piece fitted into the end of the ram, On the old lathe i used to have the ram was cross bored and a cylindrical PB piece fitted in, this had the thread for the jacking screw through it
I presume this would have allowed for any minor misalignment in the casting machining or wobble in the jacking thread??
Making the threaded part seperately also means it could be replaced when required
I remade that piece which was an interesting job !!!

John

vtsteam:
That's interesting John, I haven't seen that before. Both the Gingery and the Craftsman I own just have a threaded ram. In both there is a clearance bore between the threaded portion and the tapered portion.

I started to bore the ram today, but quickly ran into a problem using the trial and error taper adjustment method -- there was already too large a bore at the taper end (from using that same piece of stock as a bearing while boring the headstock). What I mean by too large is it is close to the finished size of the wide end of the intended taper (MT2). Therefore I can't just bore and try a MT2 tapered center to see how close I am, and then re-adjust my steady rest to get a closer angle.

I really needed to start out with a small hole, and gradually enlarge it by taper boring a small amount, blueing the MT2 taper center, trial fit it, and adjustments to the steady rest set-over according to what gets scraped off the blue. But there's a big hole, so not at all possible.

Dumb, should have realized. Oh well...... not a super big problem. I have more 1-1/8" ground stock. I just thought it would be great to use up the piece I had used elsewhere during construction.

Now if I had an MT2 reamer, and a calibrated lathe and cross slide already, I'd probably be able to make do with this piece of metal (if I was careful and lucky). But I don't. So we'll start fresh with a new piece of stock tomorrow. enthusiasm waned for this job today, because I have to break down my set-up, re-mount the chuck and drill out the center of a new piece. Then re-set up the steady, etc.

PekkaNF:

--- Quote from: vintageandclassicrepairs on August 03, 2018, 04:04:25 PM ---Hi Steve,
I have been following your build with interest and admiration :wave:

On the making of the tailstock I happened to notice that the thread on one of my lathes is a seperate phosphor piece fitted into the end of the ram, On the old lathe i used to have the ram was cross bored and a cylindrical PB piece fitted in, this had the thread for the jacking screw through it
I presume this would have allowed for any minor misalignment in the casting machining or wobble in the jacking thread??
Making the threaded part seperately also means it could be replaced when required
I remade that piece which was an interesting job !!!

John

--- End quote ---

I think my lathe has same construction, but just ironmetal insert for tailstock nut, the tread rod ejects taper tooling when retracted fully home.

Pekka

vtsteam:
Yes, Pekka, if the jack screw is long enough, it ejects the tapered tool when the ram is retracted- works the same way in the Craftsman and Gingery lathes. Otherwise removal would be very difficult;

Sleeping on problems often seems to create solutions. This morning I woke up realizing that I could probably just plug the existing hole. The plug would eventually be bored out completely......I think....I'll have to measure.

PekkaNF:
Myford ML10 has thread outside of the ram and gives a good drilling stoke in a very compact format.

To eject taper tool: insert a rod from the tail end and give it a gentle tap with a hammer. I found it pretty usefull. Used sometimes the hole to blow air/coolat mixture trough ER collet to remove swarf/cool the drill.

Pekka

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