Building a New Lathe

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tom osselton:
Well you will know when it doesn’t work by the castings, I use water also with my sand / bentinite but one day I would like to try a oil binder just to see the difference.

vtsteam:
Yes, Tom, that and the feel of the sand.

I started out the day today by paying a visit to Lester in the old time machine shop, to see if ha had any 1-1/8" machine collars. I doubted it, and it was true, he didn't. But I bought a 1" collar anyway, figuring to bore it out. We had a nice chat about tailstocks, and agreed that they were the most complicated piece on a lathe to build. There's a taper bore, a clearance section, a left hand thread, and a guide groove in the ram, a set over mechanism, a split collet clamp, a base, and gibs, and on my lathe the tailstock rides on the inside edges of the way channel.

Anyway I bored out the collar when I got home, and managed a 1 thou sliding fit on the new ram stock. Here checking it out against the fingers of the Gingery steady rest on the new lathe. It will serve as a stop to prevent the stock from moving off of the Lathe spindle center when boring the Morse taper.

vtsteam:
I spent much of the morning deciding how to mount and adapt the riser block to the Gingery steady rest. I finally decided to slot the base of the rest, and install Allen screws to allow me to set over the steady.

This will make boring tapers a lot easier than trying to shift the whole shebang on the ways.

I attached the riser to the ways with toe-clips on the underside. The riser is narrow enough and located to fit inside the carriage slides -- allowing the carriage to move all the way to the steady, and reducing the length of the boring bar.

Here are the base with slot and riser together on the ways:

vtsteam:
I didn't have a driver dog that would fit the new faceplate. The one I'd made for the Gingery lathe wasn't long enough to fit the wider spaced slots. So I found a piece of 1/2" square keystock, and made a new longer limb for it.

The whole dog is very simple, made up of keystock and bolts, and one nut as a keeper on the finger that engages the faceplate. That finger is a bolt with its head sawn off. The keystock is vee-notched with a three sided file to engage the work. Works quite well:

vtsteam:
And here's the whole setup, ready to bore. I didn't start that by evening, leaving it for another day and fresh concentration.

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