Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
Small (broach) press. Hydraulic or mechanical?
PekkaNF:
Got hydraulic cylinder with front flange, but there is some junk on front of the flange, have to design over it.
Hope that I will get some garage time this weekend. Bought bolts and nuts.
Cylinder has 500 mm of stroke and I will need about 350 mm of it....can loose some.
Pekka
PekkaNF:
Little progress here. I have been bying every nut and bolt only as I need and not rushed oout all that I think I might need :D
Good news: Less money spent.
Bad news: Everytime I start working on it I figure that I need one extra dimension on part I don't have and tools I though I had or have capacity falling just 1-2mm short...therefore, most of stuff is being made with plan B!
80*20 mm HRS does to fit into 80 mm vise.
My trusty russian boring head stops to 47 mm, just short of 50+ needed, I'll try holesaw to it, because not that good accuracy is needed, just clearance.
I have idea how to put three holes (each part) on same line on four parts. Only two parts are same size, other two are unique. I'm thinkking of using the largest piece as a jig and finishing it last.
Pekka
Lew_Merrick_PE:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on April 19, 2015, 02:56:39 PM ---Little progress here. I have been bying every nut and bolt only as I need and not rushed oout all that I think I might need
My trusty russian boring head stops to 47 mm, just short of 50+ needed, I'll try holesaw to it, because not that good accuracy is needed, just clearance.
I have idea how to put three holes (each part) on same line on four parts. Only two parts are same size, other two are unique. I'm thinkking of using the largest piece as a jig and finishing it last.
--- End quote ---
Hi Pekka,
I don't know about Finland, but here in the U.S. it is usually less expensive to buy a box of 100 screws, dowel pins, etc. than it is to buy 10-20 a piece at a time. Then you have the extras the next time you want some...
You could make an boring bar insert that is (say) 2mm broader than the ones that came with your boring head. ???
As to the last, you can line bore the two that are the same size and then use them to dial in hole locations on your other two odd parts. The other way to accomplish this is with tooling buttons that are positioned using parallels and gauge blocks to assure accuracy of position. In essence, a tooling button is a piece of round steel that is drilled out to be somewhat larger than a (relatively) small screw. You then drill and tap for the screw, insert it through the (now tubular) round bar, and adjust the position using parallels and gauge blocks before the final tightening of the screw. [Button Head Socket Cap Screws tend to work the best.] You then dial in on each button in turn.
Hopefully, some of this will help you...
PekkaNF:
Thanks,
It is pretty much same here and I normally just do that. But sometimes I'll get lazy and figure that since I'm turning some bars with 1,5 mm lead I'll do the M16*1,5 and buy the four nuts I only, because I'm not convinced if can find the remaining nuts ever after.
I need to get somewhere box of 4/5/6/8 mm dia dowel pins, those I would need often. Yesterday I cut two dowels out of silver steel (that was closer to 4,9 mm than nominal 5,0 mm).
It's the eternal balance to have enough stuff to keep you going and not accumulating all the stuff that might come handy one of these days.
I considered line boring, but these will not fit into my small lathe and my big lathe (old junk revolver missing the capstan assy and tail stock) would need some little additions. Two pieces are 240*80*30 mm, one 25,00 hole in the middle and two 16H7 holes on both sides. All on on the central line. I'll give some more consideration to your text. Buttons....maybe this is the time to make some, so far I have used bearing rings. I think I don't actually need that accurate here, but it might be a good excercise.
I was thinking of drilling them individually way undersize, drill central hole tight for a dowel that will align them all centrally. Stack three critical ones together, dowel pin on the centre should keep them aligned. Mark orientation on each piece. Drill the whole stack a little undersize and then use hand reamer on critical holes (on the sides). Then take that stack apart, use two holes to align the pieces and bore the central hole clearance.
Would this work?
The Boring bar has enclosed cylindrical slide and boring bar moves in a slot milled to boring head. This slot limits the movement and should make a cranked boring bar to it....I rather build or buy different design for another boring head, but that will "some day" project.
Pekka
Bluechip:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on April 20, 2015, 03:51:29 AM ---Thanks,
I need to get somewhere box of 4/5/6/8 mm dia dowel pins, those I would need often. Yesterday I cut two dowels out of silver steel (that was closer to 4,9 mm than nominal 5,0 mm).
Pekka
--- End quote ---
I know where to get 'em in UK. But they come in boxes of 100 and I don't know if Cromwell ship out of UK ???
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/index.php?q=2dd54819-466f-4b2e-abf6-05b33aa84e58&p=advancedsearch&action=advancedsearch&search=1&search_all=dowel+pins&search_any=&search_phrase=&search_none=&search_brand=&search_price_from=&search_price_to=&search_sort=&search_limit=10&search_offset=50
Here you go anyway ... :thumbup:
You're on the right page, just scroll down past the 20mm to get to the 2mm and then page on for the rest ...
Dave
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