Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
Small (broach) press. Hydraulic or mechanical?
PekkaNF:
I have been doodling some stuff and basic layout is coming out on these lines:
Standard 25/40/400 mm double acting hydraulic cylinder, bought without any mounts/clevises
1) Rod end: Straight (to be pinned) or boss/thread or internal M12 thread
2) Split clamping at front end, cylinder "plain" without any provisions.
3) No clevis or mount on cylinder body.
part (9) is a slide that hopefully prevents the cylinder from bucling. It runs on plastic bushes (8) on drawn steel rods (7). Looks like 25 mm dia is plenty, even with threaded ends.
Pekka
John Stevenson:
Split clamp is not going to work.
For every force there is an opposite so if you are pressing 10 tonnes then 10 tonnes is trying to push your cylinder out of the clamp.
PekkaNF:
Jep, it's going to be 2-3 tones and there will we a little feature (I don't have a foggiest idea how it is called....sort of part of a flange) that will take the force. Clamp will just keep it there. I was thinkking a thread but realized that my steady is not big enough for it and and it won't fit trough the spindle.
Pekka
PekkaNF:
Got home key broach set I bough. Gives something concrete for this project. I see that under 5 mm key size I would not have this sort of problem.
Cylinder guy gave me a quote of 190 EUR + VAT:
* Standard cylinder piston and cylinder end cap as well as cylinder head.
* Any length of standard rod and any shoulder/thread I want on in.
* He would fabricate, weld and machine mount and make custom length cylinder tube.
Standard 40/25-400 mm cylinder is 125 EUR + VAT, I can get is as a "kit" or assembled without the welded mounting hardware. This is tempting but I haven't come up with good means of mounting it.
My initial idea was to make a boss between cylinder tube and cylinder head. My friend calculated that 5 mm thick piece would do, but it needs more depth just outside of the tube to keep it rigid. MFG guy did not like, I should machine that "thickness" of the cylinder head to make the O-rings work between the cylinder tube and head.
Plan B: use all thread as a tie bars and put the whole cylinder on compression. See doodle.
Pekka
John Stevenson:
Plan B looks good.
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