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31
That run nice.. :)

Thanks Bill I had some fun with that setup on my workbench.
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A big thanks for all the replies, much appreciated. If I can fabricate one up, this would immensely increase the pleasure I get from running small accessories of my variety of engines…..again thanks all.

Someone went to the trouble of cobbling this together to show me a way - Super appreciated!!!  :beer: :bow: :bow:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztFepc4LHhQ
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That run nice.. :)
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The Design Shop / Re: Advice on building s simple ‘clutch’ to stop a driven accessory
« Last post by timby on September 29, 2025, 05:01:06 AM »
I am old enough to have worked in a steam sawmill, a "fast and loose " pulley  as described by  BillTodd was usually the choice to stop a drive but I like  awemawson's idea better,  a jockey pulley on an arm might look better.
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Or maybe roll the belt onto a free-wheeling pulley?

If you wanted a  stand-alone clutch unit then  a floating pulley that could be forced into contact with a moving one or a stationary block could give you both clutch and brake.
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A tensioning pulley in the drive train mounted on an “over centre” crank that can either tighten or slacken the belt much like a flat belt overhead drive shaft would be in an Edwardian workshop.
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The Design Shop / Advice on building s simple ‘clutch’ to stop a driven accessory
« Last post by Jim Dobson on September 28, 2025, 11:11:35 PM »
I’m after some advice to build a simple ‘clutch’ that can be activated by a lever to disengage a running accessory that is being run by a belt off an engine.

If in the photo below where I have drawn the red line (and that belt was longer) what type of simple ‘clutch’ could be built to be able to work to disengage the belt with a lever moved one way and then re-engage the belt with the lever moved back? This would be an extremely handy thing for me to have when running accessories of steam engines and H&M engines etc

I’ve wracked my brain and everything I have come up with would be a dud……any ideas?
Hope I’ve made some sort of sense with the above!

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B01 Ball Top Monitor Gas Hit & Miss Engine Driving an Old Antique Pericaud Water Pump via a DIY Homemade Transmission that I made some years ago. The Transmission slowed the pump down nicely and was well matched to the H&M engine and this is one of the jobs these types of engines would have done back in the day.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6jG4WM0Ls0[/youtube]
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Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on September 27, 2025, 11:02:19 AM »
Hi Folks

I get the Qualters and Smith saw running, and adjust the hydraulics, and almost get it right, but I have decided to strip the lift ram next week to check the settings as it sometimes doesnt cut quite through before it goes into lift mode! We finish the wire mesh around the trees to make the fence dog proof in both directions, and clear Damson wood! Friday I get my Honda mower running after some tinkering and clear my garden ready for fencing and finishing off at Ratten row! It's only the work that is keeping us alive, as I always say to Keith! Long may it continue!

Phil, in warm and Bootiful East Yorkshire!

https://youtu.be/InX3FRXvg2o
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Member Videos / Re: First Run of my B01 Ball Top Monitor Hit & Miss Engine
« Last post by Jim Dobson on September 26, 2025, 05:21:03 PM »
Nice but what the H*ll is Moose milk?

What all the black powder shooters use to stop the burnt black powder from rusting their pistols and rifles.
Its just Ballistol (which is water soluble) mixed with water. Works great for H&M engines so that when you've emptied the hoppers and the water evaporates its protected by the Ballistol.

Who coined 'Moose Milk' ..... I don't have any idea.
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