MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: mechman48 on July 25, 2011, 03:44:47 PM
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:wave:
Some more pics.
I have dug out the trial version of my taper turning attachment, this needs a couple more mods to it to finish it off, i.e. marking fiducal lines to define the taper being cut, a more positive return screw action 'n stuff like that. As always I have used old drill MT's where possible & being commercially produced are as accurate as can be.The ball nose (from old ball bearing) was silver soldered on to provide some lateral movement in non protected centers (methoughts :scratch:) still have yet to prove it's practicality in tests :dremel:.
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n490/mechman48/DSC00640.jpg)
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n490/mechman48/DSC00641.jpg)
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n490/mechman48/DSC00642.jpg)
Clamp type knurling tool, all the knurls in my pics were created using this
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n490/mechman48/DSC00644.jpg)
(http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n490/mechman48/DSC00645.jpg)
Will post some more later (hope some of you are not getting too bored) :coffee:
bfn
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..... Will post some more later (hope some of you are not getting too bored) :coffee:
bfn
Bored? No way. WE LOVE PICS :D
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Thanks for posting
The taper turning centre looks to be a handy bit of kit
John
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Nice work :thumbup:
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Gratitude for clever device is never boring!
Thanks. :beer:
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You make it look easy....
Dont quite understand the tailstock taper tool, but it looks neat and well used :beer:
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You make it look easy....
Dont quite understand the tailstock taper tool, but it looks neat and well used :beer:
You put the tool in the tailstock and mount your work so it's riding on the ball end, then you use the knurled adjuster to move the ball off-center. Now when you turn the piece you'll be forming a taper with the thin end nearest the chuck.
I don't see how degree markings are going to help however, unless you always turn a taper of the same length. If you off-set two different-length pieces the same amount (according to markings) you will get a different taper for each. Or is this something catered for by the reference to 'fiducal' lines?
That IS a neat idea though, and nicely made.
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:wave:
Thanks for the comments guys.
My concept of the 'fiducal' lines was to indicate settings for the more common tapers used i.e. 1,2,3, MT perhaps 'indicator lines' would be a better description (symantics?) I agree with your comment about different lengths producing different tapers but these lines would only indicate standardised 1,2,3, MT lengths & I don't foresee myself doing anything other than common tapers :scratch: so a couple of lines set up from either side of center line would be a helpfull quick ref. If you want to create a 'spot on' taper you can always set up a master taper in the headstock & set your compound slide using a DTI, or if you are really clever you could use 'Trigonometry' ::) to calculate the offset, mind you I would simply use the taper charts from 'Zeus' if I needed to be that accurate :ddb:
Am looking at posting more pics this weekend so bfn
mechman48