MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: bry1975 on February 07, 2011, 05:09:58 PM
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Thanks for machining the replacement Tag Heuer Bezel John the watch now looks decent. :thumbup:
(http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2358/tgl.jpg)
(http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1312/tgl2.jpg)
(http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/294/tgl3.jpg)
Old knackered bezel:-
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/4788/tgl4.jpg)
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No problems Bry. I'm glad you are happy with it.
That case looks a lot better than the last time I saw it. Had it been run over by a car? It certainly looked like it.
John
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John, how did you go about maching that part, did you take an pictures? I`m thinking more about how you held it.
Cheers
Chris
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Nice job :thumbup: the old one certainly was a mess.
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Chris,
As this was a private request, I don't normally take pics of the processes, just the finished article.
But a quickie explanation.
The internal dimensions and boring to fit the crystal OD was all done on the original stainless bar held in the chuck. It was then parted off and turned around. It was then held with an expanding 5C mandrel turned to size to fit the inside dimensions of the bezel. I was then able to put the two outside tapers on.
I hope that helps
John
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Yes, makes sense, thank you for the explanation.
Chris
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The case certainly did look like it had been ran over by either a car or worn by a welder!
I only lightly sanded the rough sides and then ran the case under a refinishing wheel.
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Nice job John. :thumbup:
I bet it didn't take the old master long to do that, eh?
Bernd
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Bernd,
Not long at all, purely because when I was doing it, I prepared the bar to do another couple just in case something went wrong.
Because there was double angle being used on the outside, and it was a very complicated shape to measure up on the inside without a comparator microscope (which I don't possess), I actually cut slightly too deep on the inside for the first couple of attempts, but the third was spot on, with plenty of meat left on the inside.
The pic shows what happened with the first two.
BTW, between each one was only about 20 mins.
John
Added.
In fact the stainless bar (I have forgotten the material number, that was supplied by Bry) is still under my lathe, and still mounted in the chuck. Now that I know everything was successful, I can now take it out of the chuck and put it away somewhere safe just in case another one like this comes up.
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Nice job! :thumbup:
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I rebrush and clean up bezels with the trick below as it's often very difficult to hold certain parts in a 3 or 4 jaw chuck.
Facing plate with industrial strength double sided tape!
(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7396/tagcaseback.jpg)
Bry
P.S. takes a good twist of the screwdriver to lever the caseback off the facing plate!
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Nice job John!
Bry, the watch looks great now.
Eric
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Thanks Eric!
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I use this methoud to hold bits down but use IPA Isopropyl Alcohol a quick squirt leave for a few min and it falls off anddoes not normally rust the surface (well not my mill anyway) and dries very quick and you are left with no resedue.cleans things well as well great for around the shop (and house).
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390274566925&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:GB:1123
Peter
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Thanks for the recommendation Peter I'll have to try some oh and the facing plate
is ally. FYI I run the 3 jaw and 4 jaw and facing plates on my father's Myford ML8 wood
lathe works a treat for brush finishing and polishing.
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Bry
I use double sided on the surface grinder for non ferrous parts that can't be held in a vice to use the mag chuck.
Really good for a fine grind, but I do occasionally put bits into orbit.
John
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John,
Strong double sided tape is certainly a very versatile sticking media.
Bry