MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: Corvus corax on November 28, 2010, 10:27:21 AM
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I've been using this little gadget for a while now and I'm pretty happy with it.
Finally managed to get the wife to take pictures of it. :)
I was inspired by:
http://9x20lathe.blogspot.com/2007/11/saddle-stop-and-dial-indicator-mount.html
After redrawing the diagram in Metric I attacked one piece of Aluminium scrap with the Einhell Mini Mill. Which resulted in this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/omikami/Projects/PB010003.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/omikami/Projects/PB010004.jpg)
I added the carriage bolt to use as a form of adjustable depth stop.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/omikami/Projects/PB010017.jpg)
Or I can swap it out for the Dial Indicator, as shown below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v724/omikami/Projects/PB010019.jpg)
Hopefully in the next year I will get my anodizing set up going and anodize it.
It's not much as far as a project goes but it's very useful and I highly recommend it to anyone with a 9x20 lathe.
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Great Job!!! I keep threatening to make a couple of those for my lathes.
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Looks great! I made a couple of them my self last year. One is set up as a carriage stop and the other sports a 2" dial indicator.
Keep up the good work.
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Thanks guys. If anyone has a Dial indicator setup for the mini mill, horizontal axis not vertical, I would be interested in seeing it. I've heard guys joke about having an ARO on their mills table instead of a DRO but noone has ever posted pics.
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This Micrometer stop came with my lathe but it would not be hard to copy. For imperial measurements a 20 tpi thread is 0.050 per revolution. This thing is stout enough that it makes it very easy to face a part to a very accurate dimension.
(http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n50/boucherbyron/IMG_0050.jpg)
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Nice job there my M300 came with a steel one but double clamp, came in handy 5 weeks ago and fitted in a round about fashion to the 140.
Never got round to making a carriage stop but will do with a capstan indexing arrangement for various operations.
I am currently working on a cross slide twin stop doubling up as a swarf protector for the DRO currently finishing off.
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Have you found a supplier for chemicals, etc yet? -Kenneth
Kenneth,
Try this place Caswell Plating (http://caswellplating.com/). I know it's on the right coast but it's a start.
I've always wanted to try anodizing also.
Bernd
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.....Please do share some photos and your experiences with anodizing.....
hi Kenneth - I posted a few notes in this thread (http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2441.msg26027#msg26027) which may be useful.
Dave
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Kenneth,
The link that Dave posted gives you a very good run down on what it takes.
What chemicals do you have and what are you going to use for a power supply?
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Think this deserves a topic on its own.
Had a binge at anodising for a few years but couldnt get the colouring right. No way of knowing until job completed and sealed.
Many a time had loss of contact - creates an oxide build up even wedging in aluminium tapers.
Two PSU's 0-30V ones a twin output digi 10A paked up twice, the others a cheapy from Maplin 0-30V analogue.
Havent done any anodising since my son broke the 4ft fish tank holding several gallons of sulphuric acid 19%. Steel doors didnt last long :clap:
Hydrochloric 33% is the one, that stings.
Dyes was a nightmare nothing worked tried the lot, in the end had to fork out for the proper powder.
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Kenneth,
Ron's link is where I was going to point you. It sounds like you have the necessary chemicals and power supply. I would recommend you also pick up a PH meter. This stuff is far more sensitive than I thought with PH. I got this one off of ebay and it works very well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230419320028&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I messed about for some time with different dyes and power supply.
I now use the Clairiant Dyes and mid temp nickle acetate for sealer. I have a couple of products I will be selling and wanted to make sure I got a good anodize job done. Here is a nice deep black I am getting now.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Deere_X475guy/IMG_20110117_100822.jpg)
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Kenneth,
Everything I am doing now is 6061 T6. Different alloys will take the color differently. So long as I keep all parameters the same through each step I get the same results. I went to a commercial dye and sealer at the same time so I can't comment as to what helped the most. I will need to invest in a chiller this summer. At 12 ASF I have to keep a close eye on the ano solution to keep it below 75 degrees.
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I've been using this little gadget for a while now and I'm pretty happy with it.
Finally managed to get the wife to take pictures of it. :)
I was inspired by:
http://9x20lathe.blogspot.com/2007/11/saddle-stop-and-dial-indicator-mount.html
After redrawing the diagram in Metric I attacked one piece of Aluminium scrap with the Einhell Mini Mill. Which resulted in this:
Hopefully in the next year I will get my anodizing set up going and anodize it.
It's not much as far as a project goes but it's very useful and I highly recommend it to anyone with a 9x20 lathe.
Corvus,
Very nicely done part. I like how you took the time to round the edges and it looks like you might have sanded the surface also.
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Lovely work Ken bet that took some time.
Gone totally off track here lets start a new thread in http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4275.0
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Corvus,
Very nicely done part. I like how you took the time to round the edges and it looks like you might have sanded the surface also.
My Industrial arts teacher was a Swiss and really full of it about rounding edges as well as de-burring
It was a good habit to pick up for later use especially when working on firearms.
I did hand sand it with some 400 grit paper. I have the dyes and other chemicals and will do my anodising soon, now that the weather is starting to warm up.