MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: shipto on January 03, 2025, 12:52:11 PM
-
I have held off posting any details of this project because I wasn't sure it would work but now I have got this far I am a little more confident so first pic of my Quornish.
I cheated a bit by buying the U2 cutter grinder attachment rather than make the bits myself.
-
Little bit of progress I have made the micrometer thimble with a M10x1 thread, needs marking up but that requires yet another project so it will have to do for now.
Not exactly sure about my idea for the rocker arm but its cooling down in the vice right now so I will clean it up tomorrow and see how it looks.
-
I'm thinking its not too bad not as pleasing to the eye as the cast ones but I cant see it will cause any problems, obviously it still needs the adjusting screw and if I can find a close match for the paint that will make it look better.
-
Made wheelhead height nut but I am dithering about how I make the wheelhead collar now. I really need a chuck of steel about 60x50x80 but dont have anything close. The options I have with the available materials are A)Weld some bits together to make a bit I can machine to shape or B)I have a scrapped 70mm shaft at work which I can cut off 80+mm and machine to size with some big rounded chamfers left over. Option B seems the best one to me as the 60mm can be altered to leave less of a chamfer not that it woud effect anything anyway.
-
B it is. A little cad work let me work out I can do this part quite easily, a little extra machining I guess but nothing I cant manage.
-
I'm thinking its not too bad not as pleasing to the eye as the cast ones but I cant see it will cause any problems, obviously it still needs the adjusting screw and if I can find a close match for the paint that will make it look better.
I think it looks just as good fabricated and machined. Looking good in general! :thumbup: :clap:
-
Getting on with the collar which required a few dubious setups on the lathe (my homemade milling machine is not really man enough for the jobs) I think I am going to take some more material off the back so I can use my slittling saw. As you can see in the second pic I can remove about 8mm.
-
I am moving on to the motor and spindle now and if I had planned ahead I could have saved a little work because it can be used pretty much anywhere and I could have used it for making the helical groove on the upright. However I decided I am going to use the motor and spindle (with some mods) from my toolpost milling attachment. For this I am going relatively close to the plans in the quorn book, I have purchased the angular contact bearings and am even copying the labyrinth seal arrangment. I ground a cheap boring bar to make the trepanning tool, I have included an image but it's not brilliant. In the next image you can see why I needed a right angle trepanning tool and the results of it and the final image is just the modified spindle body.
-
Trying to follow here shipto, but admit I'm not quite sure what photos 2 and 3 are of. Photo 1 is a tool bit for sure. Well 3 looks like a spindle housing, not sure if the trepanning tool was used on the outside top and bottom... guessing so. I imagine the inside was done with a boring bar.
Photo 2 --- is the spinning shaft and blued arm the trepanning tool itself? Does the tool bit go in the threaded hole? Are they being driven by the chuck? What are they working on?
-
Trying to follow here shipto, but admit I'm not quite sure what photos 2 and 3 are of. Photo 1 is a tool bit for sure. Well 3 looks like a spindle housing, not sure if the trepanning tool was used on the outside top and bottom... guessing so. I imagine the inside was done with a boring bar.
Photo 2 --- is the spinning shaft and blued arm the trepanning tool itself? Does the tool bit go in the threaded hole? Are they being driven by the chuck? What are they working on?
Sorry was part way through posting and my mate turned up for a coffee so lost my thread a bit. :lol:
Pic2 is indeed the shaft turning between centres and the blued bit is the drive dog I made to turn it. The trepanning tool was used to cut the recess close to the drive dog and the threaded hole has a 10mm bolt sticking out of the back being pushed around by one of the jaws of the chuck.
Pic3 just shows the modified spindle body which was used in my toolpost milling attachment (different thread).
-
Oh I get it! So the trepanning tool bit was in the regular lathe toolholder, working end-on. And the blued arm is just a driving dog. Got it! :beer:
-
Oh I get it! So the trepanning tool bit was in the regular lathe toolholder, working end-on. And the blued arm is just a driving dog. Got it! :beer:
:thumbup: You got it. Needed the right angled trepanning tool because of the drive dog and the tailstock getting in the way.
-
I have most of the bits done for the spindle but have to figure out a few things.
first I have to make a nut with tooling thats too big, I am thinking of grinding down a old tap to make a tool small enough.
Then I have to put a 3mm keyway in the pulley again without the needed tools, This may become a side project.
Lastly I am struggling to work out how these labrynth seals actually stop grease or oil escaping and would love an explanation if anyone has one and on that note the drawing in the quorn book shows a countersunk bolt in the middle of the spindle housing which I assume is for adding oil occasionally as I cant see any other need for it.
-
Lots of progress, Dwayne. :clap:
I kinda wondered about labyrinth seals myself. Tesla had a one way valve that used labyrinths, and then there's the scores we put on small pistons. I imagined that it was kind of like sequential pressure drops by restrictions and expansion passages.
But I found this here just now, that says turbulence is involved, so it's more than just additive pressure drops into expansions:
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29452/using-labyrinth-seals
-
Obstacles overcome, spindle together and running totally free.
Next step will be the plates to mount it.
-
Lots of progress, Dwayne. :clap:
I kinda wondered about labyrinth seals myself. Tesla had a one way valve that used labyrinths, and then there's the scores we put on small pistons. I imagined that it was kind of like sequential pressure drops by restrictions and expansion passages.
But I found this here just now, that says turbulence is involved, so it's more than just additive pressure drops into expansions:
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29452/using-labyrinth-seals
That similar to the page I looked at for an explanation, maybe a dim moment but I still dont quite get it. As long as it does the job I guess it doesn't matter.
-
True, if it works that's what you really need.
I think of eddies in the spaces between as little whirlpools of lubricant. They push back against any pressure to pass. When I used to do whitewater canoeing, you'd see eddies behind rocks which stuck out of the water. If you maneuvered your canoe behind the rock, pointing upstream, it would stay put there with water rushing either side of you. You could sit there and eat lunch if you wanted -- we sometimes did.
When the water passes the rock, there's basically a hole in the flow behind the rock. Water from immediately downstream tries to fill that hole, and to do that it has to flow upstream toward the rock. That's the eddy. It's water that is flowing opposite the main current direction, and that's what keeps you parked against the rock.
So eddies in a labyrinth seal must be doing something similar -- the flanges of the seal are acting like the rock, and behind it in the pocket there must be a counter current pushing against the leakage of fluid. Maybe they put several of these in a row to reduce the leakage to nil.
Well that's about as far as I can imagine it working anyway.
-
True, if it works that's what you really need.
I think of eddies in the spaces between as little whirlpools of lubricant. They push back against any pressure to pass. When I used to do whitewater canoeing, you'd see eddies behind rocks which stuck out of the water. If you maneuvered your canoe behind the rock, pointing upstream, it would stay put there with water rushing either side of you. You could sit there and eat lunch if you wanted -- we sometimes did.
When the water passes the rock, there's basically a hole in the flow behind the rock. Water from immediately downstream tries to fill that hole, and to do that it has to flow upstream toward the rock. That's the eddy. It's water that is flowing opposite the main current direction, and that's what keeps you parked against the rock.
So eddies in a labyrinth seal must be doing something similar -- the flanges of the seal are acting like the rock, and behind it in the pocket there must be a counter current pushing against the leakage of fluid. Maybe they put several of these in a row to reduce the leakage to nil.
Well that's about as far as I can imagine it working anyway.
Sounds impressive to me even if its wrong. :lol:
-
That's what I like to hear! :lol:
-
Confession time I made a mistake. When making the two base pieces I welded the upright mounting place on the wrong side of the bar stock which became apparent when I started to line things up. So I had to grind the bits apart and reweld them and I think I have got away with it everything seems to line up still at least.
-
More progress, still need to mill all the hole for mounting the motor but its starting to look like it should now.
-
It sure is, Dwayne! :thumbup: :beer:
-
Not that you can tell from the picture but it lives. :ddb:
-
:zap: Soon after taking the last photo I discovered not only is it alive but its also live :zap:
I can only assume that because this motor has been sat in various places in my shop it has picked up some hitch hikers that are allowing the power to the case of the motor I will have to strip it down and clean it all up tomorrow.
It does make me think I need to do something to stop any of the grinding dust collecting in the motor when working.
-
Happy you have it running, Dwayne!
Sorry to hear about the ground fault, too!
What kind of motor is that? I see you have the same DC voltage controller I used initially on my lathe...
-
230V dc 150W motor out of a clark mini lathe. The origional controller went pop a long time ago and at that time I couldn't afford to replace it.
-
Pop it in the airing cupboard for a few days to dry it out. If that doesn’t work passing dc through the windings of a few tens of watts to warm it from within usually works a charm v
-
I dont think its anything to do with moisture Andrew.
I looked at it after work and I think I have figured it out. First of all I stripped it apart and checked for shorts and found non but changed the bearings while it was apart. After that I ran it back up with the meter attached and noticed the voltage builds up over time rather than just being there from switch on, so my conclusion is that it is building up static. This will of course be solved by earthing the machine.
-
Static buildup. Never heard of that! But there's huge amount I haven't heard of. Mostly everything, actually.
Maybe that would explain the death of the controller in past lathe days.
-
There are a few articles on the subject and I had never thought about it before but some of the fans we build at work have earthing bosses welded to the frame for certain environments these tend to have some black plastic lines welded to the plastic impellers too because the black plastic contains carbon which forms a conductor to take the static away. I believe its part of the ATEX requirements.
-
I'm surprised that you could measure the voltage if it's static build up, static is normally very high voltages but tiny charge or current. I think the danger from static is normally sparks in flammable environments.
I wonder if your speed controller negative is drifting away from neutral?
Be careful :zap:
Russell
-
I'm surprised that you could measure the voltage if it's static build up, static is normally very high voltages but tiny charge or current. I think the danger from static is normally sparks in flammable environments.
I wonder if your speed controller negative is drifting away from neutral?
Be careful :zap:
Russell
I am not 100% certain but as the only connections are going to the motor and I have tested that there is nothing connected to the body in any way its the only thing that made any sense to me. If there was a fault in the controller the power should still not get to the body I think but it wont hurt to earth it either way.
-
My understanding (maybe faulty, itself!) -- these solid state DC power supplies can (if faulty) pass through line voltage, unlike the old transformer/bridge rectifier/capacitor DC types which isolated the output.
-
This is the next bit which apart from holding lathe tools etc will hopefully help me make the accurate 40 degree taper in the end of the spindle.
-
Its a bit difficult getting a decent picture but that seems ok. I guess the next thing is to make an arbor and make sure, if its not far away I can lap it I think.
-
Interesting way you made that taper, Dwayne.
-
Interesting way you made that taper, Dwayne.
I just guessed it would be the most accurate way I could create it. made me realise that it could also be used to make micro parts if I add a tiny chuck.
-
I have made the first arbor and mounted the wheel with middling success. I think for future arbors I will leave them slightly oversize and finish them on the grinder.
Of course I had to have a little play and sharpened a few endmills which look good but I havent tried to use them yet but I also had a go at sharpening a countersink which cut really nicely but looking at the picture it seems to be rubbing at the back slightly so I guess the angle was wrong but this will come with practice.
The wheel I brought is 100mm and I think its a little too much for the motor so I will look into getting a smaller wheel or maybe a stronger motor if I can get one with the same form factor.
-
Great day, Dwayne, cutting your first tools with a tool you built for the job! :clap: :clap: :clap: :thumbup: :beer:
-
I've not had any experience sharpening milling cutters, but surely the cutting edge should be a thin parallel strip, rather than the broad, triangular feature that you have achieved?
-
I've not had any experience sharpening milling cutters, but surely the cutting edge should be a thin parallel strip, rather than the broad, triangular feature that you have achieved?
The picture shows a countersink bit not a milling cutter and a cheap one at that. However yes there should not be as much sharpened but that was me playing about and not really putting much thought into it. Hopefully perfection will come with experience of using the grinder but I wouldn't put money on it. :lol:
-
Better looking than my current crop of countersinks! :lol:
A long while back I got a set of those one hole countersinks. I think they were made out of lead. Instantly on use they lost all edge and wore a groove in themselves. I have a 5 flute countersink that loves to chatter and produce razor sharp metal shards that embed in fingers, as well as produce a countersink angle that fits no flathead screw ever produced. Clearly, countersinking is an art I have never mastered.
-
Better looking than my current crop of countersinks! :lol:
A long while back I got a set of those one hole countersinks. I think they were made out of lead. Instantly on use they lost all edge and wore a groove in themselves. I have a 5 flute countersink that loves to chatter and produce razor sharp metal shards that embed in fingers, as well as produce a countersink angle that fits no flathead screw ever produced. Clearly, countersinking is an art I have never mastered.
I was given one of those 1 hole cutters to try even on the pillar drill they suck.
-
In a shocking turn of events (for me anyway) I managed to find time to dismantle it and paint it. Not a good match but I'm not that worried.
Still have a few things to do including some guards for the wheel and drive belt, replace those cap head adjusting screws with something better and make arbors for the various wheels I have which will work on this. You might notice a got the 80mm wheels to replace the 100mm one but also brought a regular 80mm cup wheel and have a few wheels from a small grinder I brought from aldi a while ago which was terrible but the wheels should do.
-
Still it looks good nice job.
-
Wheel guard done the expensive way (if I was buying the stuff that is) meaning that I had a scrap of 100mm aluminium block and turned it from that. It had been lying around for ages looking for a job so I thought why not.
May have to shorten it a little but cant think why at the moment I am pretty sure that as it can rotate I can avoid it causing any problems.
-
That looks good! :thumbup: :beer: