MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => How do I?? => Topic started by: NeoTech on March 09, 2015, 12:25:04 PM
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So when i moved my machine shop into my basement - i wasnt consdering have to move it out again.. thats dumb. i just clear that now, that is one dumb assumption :wack: - never do that.
So when going in i hade the help of a tractor and with a crane arm.. Well going out i will not have that luxury.. So how do you move a 750kg lathe, 500kg mill and a 400kg cold saw out of a basement and up a steep concrete stair in a narrow space..
Tips, tricks, photos... is all greatly appreciated.
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Remove floor above. I actually made a trap door in the living room that would allow a Myford in and out, it was a mid terrace house. A frame in front room, all work done whilst family away on holiday. :thumbup:
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The Egyptians used dry sand and effectively 'floated' heavy objects. Easier going down than up but still possible :lol:
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My equipment was nowhere near as big... but when I moved it out, took everything down as far as possible and then used a lot of man power. I know that probably won't help you...
Eric
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carefully!
across the flat :- pry bars and rollers.
up the stairs :- short 2 legged A frame at the top, leaning towards the slope. a chain coming from the apex and anchored to a heavy vehicle as a third "leg" to stop it falling over. then just simply chain block the items up the stairs and onto flat ground.
go slowly and don't skimp on the lifting gear, you can never have to many ropes, chains shackles etc
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and whenever you're pulling it up the stairs, always make sure you're above it - never push from below!
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up the stairs :- short 2 legged A frame at the top, leaning towards the slope.
Not too short, they need to be high enough, and far enough back from the edge, that when the machine reaches the top it is past the point of balance so that relaxing the line will lower it onto the horizontal position.
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That A frame bushiness is it the same principle used when bridging gaps and such we are talking about (where in engineering troops when i did my mandatory military service).
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"A-frame" is good, but how are you using it? I think the suggestions made so far assume that it will be in a static mode in order to get a straight pull up the stairs.
The legs of the A-frame will have to be dug well in. What is the ground like? Is it suitable for the load transmitted by the A-frame legs?
The anchor, a cable to the apex of the A-frame also needs thought. A one ton car on wet grass won't do the job, nor will anything with a dodgy handbrake.
What would you make the A-frame out of? How will you make it?
When moving 3/4 ton uphill, improvisation should only be done by people who know / are trained in what they are doing.
It might be simpler to explain what you are doing at the local plant hire shop and see if they have something designed for the task. The old adage is "use the right tools for the job". Using the right tool for the job might well end up the cheaper option.
Scaffolding planks on the stairs so that things slide up, rather than bump up.
Never, ever stand below whatever you are moving. If you have help, brief your helper(s) to that effect and watch them to make sure they stick to the rule.
Inspect the chains, cables, straps etc before use. Don't use anything that looks even a bit dodgy. What is more important, your safety and £100s / £1000s worth of equipment or a quick trip to the DIY shop for a few £s worth of new rope?
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Remove floor above. I actually made a trap door in the living room that would allow a Myford in and out, it was a mid terrace house. A frame in front room, all work done whilst family away on holiday. :thumbup:
OT - this reminds me of what was known as "the soft patch" at the fwd end of the sweep deck on some of the minesweepers I was on. Removal of the "soft patch" gave an opening big enough to allow a main engine to be changed as a complete unit. As one of what some of my marine engineering colleagues used to refer to as the "looking out of the windows dept." (navigator/warfare) we didn't get involved hands-on; but I do seem to recall one of the main challenges during an engine change by Plymouth dockyard/FSU was that the crane couldn't plumb directly over the engine and when the new engine was lowered into position, there was a lot of huffing and puffing to get it pushed outboard to land properly on its bed.
Dave
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Yeah this will surely need some consideration, the ground is asphalt, i have a tree to anchor in maybe 30m from the stairs and some hefty chains lying for other weird moving projects.. But i think the plankingof the stair and dragging it on them with some form of palette is the way to go. Wonder if i can borro 3 ton jeep winch somewhere...
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I know it's a pain but could you not separate the machines into or manageable prices? Remove gear boxes,saddles etc?
That's how I had to move the Churchill in. Takes a bit more time but a fair bit safer and easier.
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I'll sketch up something when I get home, but I was suggesting using the frame to drag things up the stairs, not as a straight lift. I didforget to mention scaffold planks on the stairs will be required though.
It will be a lot easier winching from a frame as you'll be part lifting/part dragging rather then purely dragging things with a winch on its own, but either will work
Tarmac can be rather soft once you put point loads on it so spread any loads with a nice big foot
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as promised one pic of proposed set up :)
as long as everything is sturdy with no chance of breaking or moving then there shouldn't be any problems
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A 2 legged frame is good but you must consider what happens when you get that heavy machine to the top! Of course you also have to allow for the space required for the winch/chain block/pulley wheel. You need to be able to get the load past the point of balance across the threshold so that it can be lowered into a horizontal position (yes, I did mention that before didnt ! ! :med:)
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Do you want me to come and give you a hand , I can definitely help move that slotting head :)
Rob
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What's the cost of having it moved upstairs professionally?
And the going rate for a totalled machine and amputated foot.........?
I'm a do it yourselfer, dyed in the wool, and I've spent much time moving sailboats around big shops and yards, shifted my 10,000 lb houseboat alone , and even rolled the hull over while building......
but.......
I don't like the sound of this one, Neo, the way you're talking -- up basement steps, 30 foot distant tree, and jeep winch. Just a gut feeling....
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I'm with you here vtsteam. Think about getting it done by experienced people. 3/4 ton is too much to play with if you don't really understand what you are doing.
Some of the advice is good but some isn't fully thought through.
Tarmac can be rather soft once you put point loads on it so spread any loads with a nice big foot
Sounds good, it will protect the tarmac, except that if the angle / coefficient of friction is wrong the bottom of the A-frame is likely to suddenly accelerate towards the winch; mayhem ensues. The bottom of the A-frame legs need to be properly anchored like the other parts of the lifting system - not put on skids!
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A few days ago I was asked if I could lift and move a large stone, so I have been thinking about these things. Your sketch for winching up stairs will work, but pay good regard to all the safety issues. You need a second rope/ chain as a safety on the stair lift, anchor it well back behind the bipod and take up slack , keep it taught. I would go for it but it needs planning and good ropes and chains.