MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => How do I?? => Topic started by: rvt on July 31, 2010, 02:16:10 PM
-
I'm using a micro-mill, the table is around 200x90 (mm) with three grooves. I'm currently using a small claming kit. I'm drilling/countersinking/counterboring into small rings, generally 65mm in diameter (max) and down to 42mm minimum diameter. These are generally 4-8 holes, which need to be countersunk or counterbored. The rings are only 1-3.5 mm max in depth, usually, and they're almost always aluminium. In order to get things lined up correctly, it can take quite a while. I have to adjust the clamps and move things around each time usually.
If I have projects where I need to do over ten of these (as well as lots of other related work) it's just very time consuming, and I generally end up breaking it up (time wise) when I believe it could all be done in one go with the correct mounting.
I've thought about a rotary table & chuck, however, I do not believe I would be able to grip the rings well enough without warping them. What do you think?
I thought about a larger table, without a chuck, and just using clamps, but I just don't think that is possible.
Is there another solution that I've not thought of?
Thanks for any advise :)
-
sounds like a rotary table with a chuck (soft jaws bored to the size you need) and a "bung" to go in the centre would work.
the bung will allow you to hold the ring firm without squashing it, its what we do all the time at work!
-
Hi Jim, Thanks for your thoughts! Do you have any photos of this so I have a better idea of how I'd set it up myself?
-
how about some pics of what it is your drilling ect would be nice so to see exactly what your trying to do.
please :thumbup:
-
Okay, I will try, but I'm not working on anything right now so don't have anything to hand. It's pretty simple though, just a ring as described that needs to be clamped and unclamped all the time to move to the next drilling point. I will see what I can find tomorrow as an example :)
-
Check this out as to how to hold and drill several 'rings', hope this helps. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3429.0
Cheers,
Chazz
-
This is about 65mm dia and 5mm thick about the size you're doing,
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Modmodder/100_3330.jpg)
This sounds like a commercial production run.
For the thinner sizes you can fasten them to a wooden backing board using two way tape, plenty good enough for drilling.
I'll send you the bill for my consultancy fee. :)
Stew
-
If cost is more of an "item" than anything else, a pair of plates with a central pivot pin (shoulder screws work well) and appropriate alignment pin (dowel pins are what I use) clocked to your position makes a quick & dirty alternative that can be quite accurate. If you have access to a lathe of appropriate size, you could turn your pivot plate with a shoulder to mount your rings. If you have a DRO or Trav-A-Dial, it's even easier.
One of the "accessories" I make for my rotary table is keys that fit the t-slots on it. If all I am doing is drilling/reaming (etc.) holes, I can mount keys is with (small) dowel pins and a screw to make a "T" on the plate, mount that on my rotary table, and spin as required. The keys are just steel bar dressed to width with screw & dowel pin holes set at some convenient (and hard to forget) spacing. For my (8" and 10") rotary tables, I use .400 centers for (2) ø.188 dowel pins and (1) hole for a #10-24 SHCS. I can then cut them off (1.100 long) and have them "to hand" whenever I need them.
-
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Modmodder/100_3330.jpg)
Stew
Stew, that setup on an X2 only gives me about 1cm clearance!! :( Sorry :offtopic: Much to my frustration!
-
that set up on my X1 would give me -5cm :bang: I bought a realy nice 4" Rotary Table with a Chuck and Backplate which a few traders where linking to the X1 unfortunatley all I can use it for are very thin pieces that req small short drills using on it. :scratch: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Accessories
peter