MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => How do I?? => Topic started by: awemawson on March 16, 2018, 07:00:41 AM
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Having had a good think about the fitting of a window in the door of my MIRAC CNC lathe I'm giving consideration to just bonding the Polycarbonate sheet to the steel of the sliding door.
Youtube abounds with people fitting purpose made van windows but nothing really using a plain bit of Polycarbonate / Lexan.
Has anyone experience of this? Is there a trim to neaten the edge ?
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Andrew, when i cut the plastic screen down ( so i could see over it ) on my new scooter ( winter transport ) i just used a 1/2 round file on a bit of steel, filed it in about the depth of the sheet thickness and dragged it over the plastic until a nice 1/2 round edge formed. Looks just like the factory edge as well. Ow! and cost 0£'s.
Lyn. Ps; will nip down and ask the lad what he uses on JCB windows ( plastic small windows )
Edit: Tony says it was automotive windscreen sealer from the local parts place, or he has used Tiger seal but it tends
to be grey if that is ok..He says Tiger seal will stick MOST things..
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Hi Andrew,
A soft flame will tidy up the edge of the plastic. Careful not to char it or set it on fire. Flame polishing is a common process for plastic.
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Hi Andrew,
A soft flame will tidy up the edge of the plastic. Careful not to char it or set it on fire. Flame polishing is a common process for plastic.
I will give that a test run on a bit of spare, many thanks.
Lyn.
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Polycarbonate does not react well on warming. It becomes soft but does not really melt to polish up. Try with a crap piece before charring the item itself.
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I did a simple bond test between a polycarbonate off cut and a sample of Zintec that had been painted with the chassis paint I'm using.
I used the vinegar smelling version of silicone bath sealant ('acetoxy') and let it set for 12 hours - probably not long enough as it still smelt vinegary this morning - I suspect due to the very small air exposure channel.
It worked pretty well - If I still needed to bond the window in the lathe I'd be happy to use it, but I've managed to glaze the door using conventional rubber moulding strip.
I did however do a pretty aggressive peel test as per second picture. The bond area is 30 x 80 mm and the lead weight is 3500 grams. It stood the test for a good 25 minutes
This "Acetoxy" type of sanitary sealant was what I had to hand, but reading up on it is is not the best for bonding polycarbonate, however in this application I think that it would have been fine.
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I use acetone to weld poly together but I don't think that would make it stick to steel. To weld poly pieces together just clean the pieces well and then dribble a little acetone on the poly and put the pieces together and let set for a few hours.
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This will glue it to itself & steel, best all around adhesive I've found http://www.sashco.com/products/through-the-roof/
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Hi flylo welcome to the forum.
Would you like to post in the Introductions section to tell us all about you?
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I have used clear 3M VHB tape for this purpose before. It was very easy to apply and worked extremely well but was a bit expensive compared to other glues.
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This will glue it to itself & steel, best all around adhesive I've found http://www.sashco.com/products/through-the-roof/
Doesnt appear to be available to us here in the UK.... :scratch:
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Further to poly and flaming. I tried using heat to end some 12mm lexan. Sadly a failure as leftvit too long and it bubbled internally. I believe water vapour maybe to blame. This was basic bung it in the oven technique. A strip element heater would be better but was “young and keen” and in a rush.
Thanks for the info about acetone to joint it.
To round over I just use a very finely set block plane MUST BE RAZON SHARP followed by draw filing and fine sand paper. I have used a round over bitnin my router before, LOW SPEED AND KEEP IT MOVING or it melts ( just don’t ask and see earlier comment about youth etc) :Doh: :Doh:
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When I've done it with Perspex I've used a small flame - gently play it on the edge and keep it moving. That was using a small oxy-hydrogen torch set up intended for Jewellers that electrolysis-es water to disassociate it into oxygen and hydrogen and bubbles the result through M.E.K. to enhance the flame energy.
To give you an idea of scale, the torch tip was a hypodermic needle but it was happy smoothing the edge of 1/4" perspex. Sadly I don't have it any more - someone persuaded me that their need was greater than mine !
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The boating fraternity use a bonding agent in a skeleton gun tube, it is called Sikaflex, and compared to it, excreta and blankets come nowhere!, I used to fit the bonded in type Volvo windscreens with it.
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hi this my seem daft have a go with super glue no not the normal stuff the type designed for gluing false fingernails on as there mad out of polycarbonate
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Bob
That’s a bloody good idea as you say the false nails are polycarbonate and the binding agent, according to my female colleagues who specialize in this ( long story don’t ask ) it’s difficult to impossible to remove them. There’s a market in pure acetone which they use hot to soften it before trying to remove or touch the nails up. Many’s the husband who’s been sent in to get some !
For interest anyone wanting to clean
Nozzles on superglue tubes never throw the old nozzle out leave it in a bottle with nail varnish remover ( basically acetone) for a few days then blow it clear as the superglue turns to thick sludge which can be wiped off. Dry the nozzle and keep. Then when your current nozzle gets blocked instead of struggling to clear it, replace with the stored on. Put the bunged one in the acetone sludege bottle and leave it . Works a treat and no more stabbing yourself with pins as you try to clear the bunged nozzle.
Ian
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I think you will find that few current nail polish removers contain acetone..... I think it's ethyl acetate or a mixture with isopropyl alcohol - at least according to my nail polish using better half....
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lol we will be having ho can pant their wives nales the best next
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Excuses - come on chaps admit it - it's your nails not the other halves :lol: :lol:
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I bought some UV curing glue recently. To say I am impressed with it is an understatement. It has become my go-to glue wherever it makes sense to use it. It is clean to use, cures in seconds once you hit it with the light. What's not to like...
The hardware store kits are a bit pricey but you can get commercial sized tubes for pretty reasonable prices from Amazon.
bob
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Fyi, flame polishing only works on SOME plastics: acrylic (plexiglass), and PLA (poly lactic acid) are two I'm sure about. It's a function of melting temperature, surface tension, and thermal conductivity.
I know for sure it doesn't work on polycarbonate (lexan) and ABS (acylonytrile butatiene styrene). Past that YMMV.
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