MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: cedge on April 14, 2010, 08:38:15 PM
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The shop is now hospitable again and I'm back in gear for this season's first build project. I'm hoping to stretch things enough to do a couple of different builds, but time will tell.
I've spent the day turning out cylinders, so I'll share a bit of what was accomplished today.
I started out by cutting and cleaning up 3 pieces of junk yard brass that turned out to be some really sweet 360 free machining metal. I turned and faced the pieces to get rid of the bumps and warts and then drilled them to within 1/16 inch of the finished bores. Since one of the engines.....(yeah, there will be two when I'm finished) is a compound arrangement, the two bores will be .6250 and .750 inches.
I then broke out the HSS boring bar and got serious. In the photo below, you'll notice a lighter area just inside the bore, indicated by the red arrow.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-1.jpg)
This is a trick that Zeusrekining (Tim) taught me on my last project. Rather than blindly boring the whole length of the cylinder from the start, I bored about 1/4 inch in and used a "go/no go" gauge to get a close running fit. This particular cylinder is a 3/4 inch bore so I used a 3/4 inch slug for testing.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/go-no.jpg)
This left the rest of the bore untouched and the lip of the step up was easy to see while using the boring bar. The diminishing step up served as a visual indication for when things began getting close and resulted in a dead on .750 bore when the last pass was made. Nice tip, Tim...thanks.
Once the bores were done, it was time for the fun stuff to begin. Those of you who saw the recent 3D image, already know these cylinders will be contoured in a number of places. I'm nowhere near Gbritnell's level, but Ive definitely learned that I enjoy an engine with somewhat fewer hard edges.
The process began with a bit of marking up which was done on the lathe using a digital caliper that has had one tine shortened. This made easy work of locating the various elements I'd need to turn.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-2.jpg)
For those who haven;t seen this trick, the long tine gives you a means to indicate from an edge while the shorter tine marks the metal. This mark out was done with the lathe turning slowly. The long tine was held against the end of the work piece and adjusted to the needed dimensions for each mark. This also trick works well when working on the mill. (just remember it's an inside measurement so you cut TO the line)
The first cuts were made using a parting tool. It was used to make sure the corners were clean and square. This also took the worry out of aggressively removing the remaining metal between features. The flanges were filed on the lathe to round them. as were the rounded contours that flow from one flange tot he next.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-3.jpg)
The photo below shows the "before and after" of the process. You'll note things get a little close near the chuck. You'll want to give your undivided attention to filing this close to the spinning jaws. I use small needle files for this work and stand away from the chuck as much as possible.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-43.jpg)
Here is today's harvest after a bit of polishing has been started. The heavy bases will stay attached for some of the upcoming mill work ans then the cylinders will be transfered to mandrels for some further lathe work. Two of these will be used on the compound engine while the third will become a single cylinder version. Stay tuned.... lots of things to do before these are ready to run.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-5.jpg)
Things got a little delayed this week as I needed to clean about 20 engines for the first showing of the season. Saturday was spent with a few machining friends, 50 plus engines , loads of warm springtime sunshine and a great crowd of friendly onlookers. I'll have to say I didn't really miss being in the shop....(grin).
Today I got back to things and made a bit of progress with the cylinders.
The photo below shows one of the cylinders after it's first trip to the mill. I machined flats on all 3 bases to give me a proper datum point for the first few modifications. This trick proved to be a life saver on my last project and has since been adopted as a regular thing.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-6.jpg)
This flat face, along with the substantial "base" gave me plenty of meat to grip while working with a lot of overhang in the vice. It also helped me assure that all the cuts would be square and at 180° in relationship to each other. The flat does require a bit more use of the wiggler when things are repositioned, but it is a lot easier than many methods I've seen.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-7.jpg)
I chose to use a 5/8 inch end mill cutting to 0.100 in depth so that the hole would have a slight wall along the outside edges. I accepted that the holes would be slightly oversized and made up for it by turning the valve bases to a press fit in order to match the holes.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-8.jpg)
The valve base was then soldered into place using the 3/16 inch hole that was drilled in each piece. These holes will also be used as indexing points in later proce3dure. By soldering from the inside, there was less overflow to clean up on the outside. Since these pieces will see very little pressure, I chose to use a silver bearing solder for convenience.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-9.jpg)
The work pieces were then taken back to the mill to even up the surfaces of the valve bases. This surface now becomes the new datum point for future operations such as drilling and tapping the ends of the cylinders. After a bit clean up and removing the heavy base, the cylinders look less like candle sticks and more like parts of a steam engine.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-10.jpg)
Finally got back to the shop after a small lapse in motivation. I've managed to get a little done, so the break was not a total loss.
The cylinders have now been drilled for the steam ports. Patience and an easy touch got the #43 holes deep enough to match up with the larger 3/16 holes coming in from the valve bases.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-11.jpg)
The 3/16 holes were drilled last to avoid the chance of breaking a drill while entering another hole from the side.
If you recall, I mentioned the valve bases became the new datum point in a previous comment. This is where they came in quite handy. Locating the various holes in relation to each other became as easy as you could ask. A simple flip of the work piece was all that was required to get perfect alignments. These indexing points still have a couple of functions to serve before they too will be replaced.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-12.jpg)
The cylinders will require a total of 5 gland nuts and two different sizes since one cylinder on the tandem uses two different diameters cylinders. Here is one of them show early in the turning phase. You can see the markup / caliper trick was used here as well as the cut off tool for heavy metal removal to depth. (keep practicing with the cutting off... its a very handy skill)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-13.jpg)
Here the photo shows one of the glands, threaded at 3/8 x 32 tpi. The piston rod will be 3/16 inch dia. so there will be plenty of room for the graphite string packing to fit in the wells. The gl;ands will be concealed by the spool, also shown in the photo. This will serve to connect the two cylinders.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-14.jpg)
Here you can see the gland as it fits the collar. The 1/16 lip was left to give added support to the piston rod and to aid in positioning the gland in the end of the cylinder.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-15.jpg)
I still have glands to make, but here is how the combination of parts will fit together. I'm currently awaiting an order from www.microfasterners.com before I begin drilling and tapping the nearly 50 holes required to fit ti all together. Hopefully that project will begin tomorrow.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-16.jpg)
Welcome aboard.....
Steve
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steve :bugeye: :bugeye: :jaw: :jaw: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :clap: :dremel: :dremel: :beer: :beer: :bow: :bow: :nrocks: :nrocks: wow!
chuck :wave:
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:bow: :bow: :bow:
Steve, this a great start. Gonna settle in for this one. :beer: Gonna love the ride.
Eric
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Thanks guys....
I'm hoping this one will be fun. I'm trying to remember to document the small tricks as I use them, but I keep getting int the build and forgetting to shoot pictures....LOL.
Steve
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Today was no time to be impatient. I took on the drilling and tapping of 48 holes for the 2-56 head studs. Since the last thing I wanted was a busted drill or tap, I took several precautions.
The Chinese DRO system really paid its way, by making several things easier. The "hole circle" mode was used to keep things uniform as the holes were first center drilled. This makes sure the drilled hole can't wander, as the "pre-drilling" acts as a guide to keep it running true. I know.... we all do it, but some of this is meant for the new guys....(grin)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-20.jpg)
Since there isn't much room for error, I went a wee bit overboard with the DRO, shooting for .00005 on the read outs. No.... it isn't required, but the heads and glands have to fit quite close to true concentricity, so it was just one of those precautions I just mentioned. At 5 decimal points of accuracy, it should all work out fine.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-18.jpg)
After being center drilled, the holes were drilled using a #49 drill instead of the #50 which the books recommend. The blind holes are 5/16 inches deep and had to be tapped to depth. By using the #49 drill the chances of damage to the tap was reduced. Marv Klotzs was the source of this tool saving tip in a previous discussion of tapping on this board.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-19.jpg)
Tapping was also done using the DRO to make sure the tap was in perfect alignment with the holes. While it might strike some as being overkill, it took very extra little time and it made a tricky job much easier to accomplish. Notice, the tap guide is being used. Hey MA!!.... 48 cleanly tapped holes and no busted tools!!!
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-17.jpg)
Here are the three cylinders with the holes.... posed with a coke can to give a better feel for scale of things. When you look at the alignment of the valve bases, you'll see a few of the reasons I value that cheap Chinese DRO.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-21.jpg)
Family will be priority one, this weekend and into the first part of the coming week. I won't be getting much shop time. I'll post more when I've gotten back in the shop and to work again.
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Lovely to see you`re back to it again. :wave:
I`m on board, and enjoying the ride already..... :thumbup:
Good luck! :D
David D
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will try to keep onboard for this one :clap:
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Hang around. the fun has just begun....the more the merrier. Nothing to report tonight, other than one road weary Cedge. We spent the day wandering the back roads of the mountains of gerogia and North Carolina today. A tad over 300 miles of twists and turns on narrow winding roads. Lots of beautiful scenery but my A$$ hurts too much to sleep right now.....LOL
Steve
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Not a lot of photos tonight, since it's all been drilling and tapping tiny holes. Not much entertainment value, but it sure makes assembly much easier. Here is the first test fitting of the cylinders, glands and head. I'll be fitting the pistons and rod next so I can begin measuring the elevation needed to mount the assembly. Still need to make the glands for the 3rd cylinder but needed a break from making tiny holes.
The file is there to compensate for the 1/8 inch difference in the diameter of the two cylinders.
Steve
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-22.jpg)
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Nice Steve. Had to put on my sun glasses to view that pic. :D
Bernd
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Tonight's installment deals with working oneself out of painted corners. Once in a while, I wind up realizing I've removed the part from its base too early and no longer have a way to mount it back in the lathe for one more needed operation. It can leave you scratching your head and muttering things the kiddies shouldn't hear.
That wasn't the case in this particular instance, as I chose to make the cut off early, rather than risk life and limb by working right up against the spinning chuck with a hand file. I knew I'd have to revisit the problem, but since I already had newly established indexing surfaces for the milling and drilling requirements, I took it in stride. I have Philp Duclos to thank for the solution. (I'm really beginning to like this guy)
A short chapters in one of his Shop Wisdom books shared a down and dirty, easy to make, quick release mandrel that can be made on the fly, for just such situations. His tip was to turn a shaft to a close running fit, notch it with a shallow cut and place a small round dowel in the slot as a locking pin. This pin has to sit about .002 lower than the overall diameter of the shaft.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-23.jpg)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-23a.jpg)
A gentle twist of the work piece in the counter (anti) clockwise direction will lock the cylinder on the shaft and hold it for turning operations, as long as you don't try to make too heavy cuts. The lathe will actually tighten the work piece as you work. When finished, a gentle twist in the clockwise direction will unlock the work piece and allow it to easily slide off the shaft.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-23b.jpg)
This trick allowed me to finish rounding off the bead on the cylinder end and to clean up the flange surface where I'd had to restart the cut off and missed the original cut by a few thousandths. Since this prevented the glad from seating seamlessly, it had to go. As I said before.... easy, quick and one of those down and dirty little tricks that can save your bacon.....eh?
Okay.... I'll admit to miscalculations when I make them, but this one was more of a midstream design change that had to be compensated for. The spacer that goes between cylinders had to be remade after I decide to have hex heads on the gland nuts, instead of recessing them. This meant the first one was suddenly short by a full 1/4 inch. No sweat, but it did add to the number of already very plentiful holes to be drilled.
I popped the new one into the mill, drilled the first 8 holes. Since these holes are critical to alignment, I decided not to drill on through and risk the drill point wandering off on its own. So how would one flip a round part and match up the holes in the same locations as the ones on the other flange? Nope.... I couldn't leave a flat spot on this piece so another means of indexing was needed.
I've already turned the pistons and the piston rod was simply a piece of 3/16 drill rod, so I placed the piston in the cylinder, slid the gland in place along with the spacer. I then bolted them in place using four 2-56 hexhead screws. Before I tightened things down I moved the gland around a bit to find the point where there was least friction on the piston. (more on this in a minute). Once all was free, I tightened the bolts and put the whole assembly in the mill. The photo below shows it awaiting wiggling to center the quill before drilling the 8 holes.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/cyl-24.jpg)
As you can see, having the flat indexing points is proving to be invaluable to this project. They have made the hole placements painless if no less boring....LOL They will remain until the cylinder section is ready to bolt to the engine base, which is not that far away at this point.
I mentioned "moving the gland around" up above. Since the glands serve as the "head" for these cylinders, they are critical to the overall alignment of the pistons and piston rod. This engine will have to almost perfectly align at 6 separate points and still remain low friction if it is to run at all. Since the glands are "trapped" by the spacer assembly and the cross head guide, they were made with slightly over sized holes to allow them to "float" a few thousandths while being aligned. They will be locked into position once the other components are installed and locked down. This will take some of the sweat out of being "close" but "not quite there" as things progress.
Steve
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I just love the way you go about things Steve. great work there and great problem solving :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
:nrocks:
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Thats a real neat trick with the little dowel drive Steve that ones filed away in the memory banks.
Real nice work :thumbup:
Stew
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Love the "camlock" drive idea Steve! :thumbup: :clap:
David D
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Finally, I got to stop drilling holes for a bit. Still more to drill, but I finally got to do something that felt like progress....(grin).
The collar that joins the two cylinders also houses the gland nuts, which in the real world, would need to be accessible for maintenance purposes, so I decide to give this little engine a port hole.
The spacer was bolted up to the cylinder and placed in the mill vice for drilling. I wanted a 9/16 inch hole which would have a "collar" around the opening. After drilling to 1/2 inch, I switched to a 9/16 inch end mill to finish the opening.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-1.jpg)
A small piece of scrap box brass was then turned to a light press fit and fitted into the spacer's new opening, using a small arbor to hold it in alignment. Since the quill was already centered from the previous operation, things went quite smoothly as I used the quill to seat the cross piece.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-2.jpg)
The Spacer was then removed from the cylinder for soldering. You'll note the cross piece has a light groove cut into it. This was done to allow the solder to flow more easily. The other "trick" is less obvious. By choosing the 9/16 inch measurement, the cross drilled hole was about 1/16 of an inch larger than the bore of the spacer. This gave me a solid piece within the bore to accept solder, assuring that the piece is not going to get knocked off anytime in the future.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-3.jpg)
Once the solder cooled, the spacer was once put back in the mill to remove a bit of the new metal. Since the next operation will be to turn the piece using the cam locking mandrel, I didn't want to put a lot of stress on the tool with extended interrupted cutting. I like the mandrel idea, but it's too new to have my full faith and trust quite yet.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-4.jpg)
Once the cylinder was put back on the lathe, the spacer needed a several different operations performed. First off it was a wee bit out of alignment, so I broke out my hand alignment wheel. I slightly loosened the four 2-56 hex bolts, turned on the lathe and then ran the wheel into the side of the spacer. This nudged the spacer into alignment so I could tighten the bolts to hold it there.
Once the alignment was done, the cross piece was center drilled and then drilled to 3/8 inch, so a small HSS boring bar could be brought into play. Light cuts were the order of the day until the cut began to get close to the bore size. At this point I once again employed the little wheel tool, just to make sure all was well before making the finishing pass within the bore. The results are such that you can't see where the joints are anymore... even with the new metal transecting the bore at two places.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-5.jpg)
The cross piece was turned down to match the cylinder contour and then put back in the mill for opening of the port hole to 1/2 inch. A bit of deburring and some filing later, the port holes are looking like a good addition to the project.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/collar-6.jpg)
Steve
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Beautiful work as always Steve. :jaw: :thumbup:
Picked up on the aligment tool. Neat. Will have to remember that.
Bernd
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Bernd...
Thanks for the encouragment.
That little wheel is worth several times its own weight in chocolate....LOL. It hates wobble. When I remount a work piece in the chuck, it often wobbles when the lathe starts up. By running the wheel up against the work piece, it nudges it back into axial alignment. You can nudge form the side or it can do its job by running against the end of the work piece. Very handy.
In the sad saga of the Cam Gear disaster in the Victorian build, I managed to nearly destroy a gear that had many hours of work in it. A stupid mistake on my part had the gear twisted to about a 20° angle to its axis. After the dust settled and my heart began beating again, the wheel tool was applied to remove the damage. I ran the wheel against the "end" of the piece to get it turning straight, then I nudged the rim back into concentricity from the side.
This wheel tool is made of a simple round on a shaft. My next one will probably be made with a bearing.
Steve
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Nice work Steve. I read the post from back to front... was looking at the port hole asking myself how you did it. Glad I got my answer. Nice job!
Eric
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:bugeye: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: :jaw: WOW very nice Steve :bow: :bow: :bow:
Rob
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Tonight is going to be a bit photo heavy, so bear with me. These engines have a longer than usual cross head guides. Each of them will have long openings , similar to the one I put in the spacer section. Building them has proven to be a bit frustrating as I managed to make the same mistake, not once, but twice, resulting in the openings being rotated about 8.5 degrees off plumb. That is what happens when you are using hex bar and forget which face you used to index in the vise... nuff said.....@#$&%*!! Simple solution.... use round stock with one flat spot....LOL.
The first successful cross head guide is shown below, after it was turned, faced and then milled. The opening was drilled and milled to 9/16 just as the spacer was made. The elongated part of the cut was done using an end mill in small steps that were milled through, top to bottom in small bites. This procedure will be shown, in a few moments.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-1.jpg)
Once things were deburred and some file work was completed, a pair of small 9/16 rounds were turned and drilled with a 3/16 hole. The reason for the hole is for an easy alignment later in the process. The rounds were left slightly over sized, perhaps .002 so they would fit snuggly in their respective radii.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-3.jpg)
The space between them now needed to be filled, but the piece had to fit around the rounds snuggly.as well. This was accomplished by carefully milling a piece of 3/4 square stock 9/32 deep with a 9/16 end mill and then using it to bore through the square for the other arc. The piece was then milled down to fit the gap.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-4.jpg)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-5.jpg)
Once this were fitted properly, a session of soldering was next on the agenda. I even took time to use a pencil lead around the areas where I didn't want solder to puddle and stick. Solder won't adhere to pencil or even smoked metal, making for less clean up.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-8.jpg)
The work piece was left to cool and then moved back to the lathe to turn down the new metal. This also let me inspect the solder joints which proved to need a little additional work. Once a couple of solderless joints were addressed, it was time to see how the windows were going to turn out. This is the step where those two 3/16 holes in the end pieces proved their worth. By putting a 3/16 dowel pin in the chuck, I was able to easily center on the holes and align everything for the next step. Note the pencil lead can still be seen in this photo.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-9.jpg)
After centering the quill with the dowel pin, the next step was to bore a couple of 7/16 holes to begin opening up the window ports. Then the end mill was used to "nibble" out the remaining metal a bit a time. Run it all the way through and then advance it a few thousandths until you remove the unwanted metal. Then you want to make a quick pass back along the opening to clean things up.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-10.jpg)
Once the milling operation was finished, it was back to the lathe to make the bore round once more. First step was to use the half inch end mill to get everything back to the original bore dimension. I then widened the first 1/2 inch using a boring bar until the 9/16 end mill would just barely sip into the opening. It's no fun trying to use a boring bar in an interrupted cut. Just trust me on this...(grin). The missed alignment of the port wasn't the only headache this adventure produced. The end mill made a nice substitute and soon had the bore where it needed to be.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-11.jpg)
There is still a bit to do to the piece, like adding a pair of ribs which will need to be soldered in place, but the next one should be a breeze after feeling my way through this one. The little single cylinder has become somewhat of a test bed as I work through the ins and outs of some of the parts. I only hope it won't suffer from all the abuse, when things are completed.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-12.jpg)
Steve
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Steve,
It`s early morning here...... Not had me breakfast, yet......
I`m sitting here with a bemused/ mystified/ admiring expression......
As usual...... I don`t know what you are up to/ where you`re going..... But. I appreciate the way you do everything you do....
Keep on doing it...... :thumbup:
David D
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I agree with what david said :thumbup:
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steve, i just got to say thanks for this build and write up :clap:
as you know it is going to be a while before i can get out to my shop and make some chip's.so i'm going to get my "modeling fix" through your build and every one elses.
thanks a million steve :thumbup: (and see that thumb has no rivets) :lol:
chuck :wave:
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Steve, I do marvel at your fine work .....
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Steve,
If you hadn't shown that series of sequences to make that window I won't have been able to sleep the next few nights. I'd be laying awake wondering, "How did he do that".
Great work on those fine details that make a model stand out from the others. Sure you and Kozo Hiraoka aren't related? :lol:
Bernd
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:jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
That is all!
Eric
oh yeah! :bow: <---- that too
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Thanks everyone.
I'm taking my time, trying to get it right as I go along. The window technique itself is not my original idea, if I've given that mistaken impression. There is a German fellow who built a pair of engines, similar to these, and put up a build log on his web site. I've poached a number of his ideas even as I've added some of my own. That only seemed fair since he's poached one of my best animations for use as a signature image on his site.
Steve
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I didn't get a lot done today, but what was accomplished tied up a few loose ends that were bugging me. The windows on the cross head guide are now filed and rounded to their final size and shape. They turned out to be a somewhat delicate feature that added a nice bit to flair the project. The second engine's guide will begin tomorrow and I'm hoping it will turn out even better than this one.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-13.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-13.jpg
The rest of the progress was limited to getting the gland nuts made and fitted to the glands. These were turned from a 1/2 inch piece of hex brass that made it easy to make.... you got it.... hex nuts....(grin)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-2.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-2.jpg
You'll notice the gland nuts are flat on the thread ends. When I drilled the holes to thread the gland body, I left the taper the end of the drill bit created. The flats will press the packing into the taper and against the piston rod as the gland nut is tightened. Since I used a 3/8 x 32 TPI this arrangement will allow me very fine adjustment to control how snug the packing is compressed. the nuts were drilled .010 over the size of the 3/16 piston rod. Since the gland was reamed to size, it will hold the rod concentric, negating the need to add additional friction points in the nuts.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-1.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-1.jpg
Here are the two gland nuts were what had me a little worried about the length of the original spacer between the cylinders. They even added something to look at through the small windows. Looks like I'll need to center them up a bit before I'm done.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-3.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-3.jpg
The strange silver looking string is the graphite impregnated material Zeusrekining shared with me during the Water Pressure Engine project. This stuff makes perfect stuffing for the glands and acts as a lubricant was well. It remains low friction even after it has seated and worn in. It's available from McMaster Carr as well as Smallparts.com.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-4.jpg
Here are the pieces all fitted up and awaiting the stuffing.... among other things....(grin)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-5.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/gland-5.jpg
Steve
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Hi Steve,
As usual, I'm just catching up with this build and you continue to impress with both the quality of work and even more so, the ingenuity demonstrated in some of the procedures you use - almost makes it look easy!
Can hardly wait for the final product a la Cedge.
Best,
Mike
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Bob
Thanks for the tip. I typically deburr holes with a countersink, which leaves a taper in the end of the hole.... so I guess I do add a bevel in the nut without really thinking about it. See what I mean by habitual things are difficult to document?
I'm trying to keep these two engines fairly close to the same level of completion, as I go along. That means that I have to consciously stop and assess what is falling behind on one or the other as I work my way through test fits and such. Today I managed to bring both engines to the same place and got a lot of small things accomplished.
The second crosshead guide is almost done, needing only a bit of hand work on the window and some cleaning and polish. It was a little tricker to make since the bead on the end of the cylinder was intentionally cut smaller than the rest of the ends by a full 1/8 inch. Lucky for me my calculations were right on and I didn't have to change the hole pattern to make it work.
While the engines are of the same basic design, I've decided to give them different details. The single cylinder version will have the piston rod exposed on both ends just to give it a bit more motion when running. The tandem engine now has a longer crosshead window which will hopefully allow me to use a novel oiler system. Other small things will receive cosmetic differences as things progress.
Here are the two engines as they sit a the moment. Sorry, but the things I accomplished over the past couple of days were simply repeats of things in previous posts. No one wants to see photos of all of the nearly 150 small holes the project has required so far....LOL
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/chg.jpg)
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:scratch: :scratch: im still trying to work out how it works but I guess ill have to wait till the end of the thread
:clap: :clap: :clap: lovely workmanship as always
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As I work to move my own project engine forward, with my best efforts barely maintaining the level of accuracy necessary, making parts two and three times sometimes, I watch in awe as Cedge off-handly it would seem, produces flourishes and curves on all his work, while seemingly effortlessly getting the accuracy necessary for a working engine. I was in awe, reading through the build log for the "Cedge's Victorian engine", and watching it come out, a veritable work of art. This build now will surely be another pair which meet that standard. Look up "craftsman" in the dictionary, and Cedge's picture is right there, I swear it is :jaw: :jaw: mad jack
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Jack
You're a silver tongued devil for sure....LOL. I'm not doing anything miraculous. I just don't share photos of my "extra" parts...(grin). Truth being told, I've made "extra" glands (2 ea) , spacers (2 ea) and cross head guides along the way (3 ea) . I'm also sure there will be more extra parts before this project is done.
I didn't really get comfortable with my machines until the Victorian project was under way. Somewhere in the early stages of the project, I quit sweating over "process" and began to do it "my way". The whole project then became a lot of fun instead of being frustrating. I've come to believe that if you can visualize it, there has to be a way to build it. Others seem to manage these things long before I came along... I just had to figure out how they did it from the clues they left.
Take your time and think through the "process" before you attack metal. Once you've made the part in your head a few times, the machines tend to listen to you much better. I'm also fearless when it comes to asking questions or seeking advice. If it makes me feel like a dummy, it only hurts for a few minutes and then I'm not the dummy anymore. The only other tip is to stop listening when someone says "that won't work" or "you can't do that". as long as you don't know you can't.... you probably can. Oh yeah... one other major tip... always wash your hands before you go pee.
Steve
PS.... the guy in the dictionary is a doppleganger....LOL I'm listed under Studly Male
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Cedge, the truth is, I was a child, living in Europe as a Navy brat for my first five or so years, my mom felt it would be a criminal waste to be where history was, and not experience it live, so my sisters and I went everywhere you can go by bus, carrying sandwiches and water, and we saw all the ruins of Greece and Rome, as well as Venice and Barcelona, and I look at your engine work, knowing well the special features are artful flourishes, and they make your engine work personal, it carries your own mark, and were you building full size engines to do what a city needed to be done, yours would be recognizable, as, I would dare say, would most other craftsmen's, and we all leave our own mark in our own way. I spent a lifetime working to a standard with the military being a large part of it, and am only starting to enjoy adding those "flourishes" in the past decade or so. It has caused a new appreciation for the use of oxy-acetalyne, silver solder and brazing, as means of giving form to cold sharp corners and the like. This forum is almost like being able to hang out with like minded people that I have wanted so long, but never experienced. I'm following about six or seven builds, and getting a lot of ideas and inspiration from them. It's good, because I've got lots of projects going, and need to get more finished. You do a great job explicating your process and your purpose, and you make it all look easy. I'm really looking forward to video of two engines running. :jaw: mad jack
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The engines in this project are what are known as side rod style. This means there are cams on an independent shaft which runs down the side of the machine, rather than the more familiar steam chest / D valve system. It also means there has to be something to support the shaft and I've got to make them.
I've studied a quite number of photos of these little machines around the web and there are generally two ways to mount them. Some use the head bolts on the cylinders while others bolt up or are riveted to the exterior wall of the cylinder. After some consideration, I chose to go the latter route on at least one of these engines.
While I've been doing all that drilling, I've also been working through how to best duplicate some of the repetitive parts this project will require. It finally struck me, while running my pirated Crap O' Cad that there might be a simple way to do things. A simple sketch was undertaken and what began as a single arm drawing, soon became four.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-1.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-1.jpg
Once the brass was squared, the lay out was made using a center drill to locate the holes. I removed the moving jaw on my Phase II vice and bolted back on the end of the sliding body and clamped in a piece of scrap yard aluminum tooling plate I had laying on the shelf. This too was drilled at the center point and another hole was added to match the radius of the outer holes. The would become the pivot and locking points during the milling process.
The metal strip you see is a piece of 0.01 inch shim stock that I use for locating the end mill. Run the end mill down until it just begins to "scratch" at the shim. You are now 0.01 inches above the work piece. Set your Z dial or DRO to zero, run it down an additional 0.01 and you are exactly at the surface level of your work. Reset the dial or DRO to zero once more and you're ready to go to work. The reason for doing the Zero thing twice is so if you miss the mark on the way to the surface, you have a place to begin again without going through the whole procedure.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-2.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-2.jpg
Before we go any further, a small warning is in order. This is a hand controlled operation and requires you to work in relatively close proximity to a small very sharp cutting tool that cares not one whit if it is chewing on metal..... or on you. Awareness of where your hands and fingers are at all times is not to be taken lightly, even for a moment. If you aren't comfortable with the idea, please do not try it. You will do so at your own risk. It's a process that requires very small diameter tools (no larger than 3/16 here) and very light cuts. You'll also want to avoid making climbing cuts as if they were the plague. Climbing cuts WILL run away on you and do damage to the work piece and quite possibly..... YOU. DON'T DO IT!!.
Once the tooling/ jig and such were complete the first cuts were made. As you can see, center pivot for center cuts, outer holes were the pivot points for their own radii. Since the dowel pins allow easy repositioning of the part, it's a fairly quick procedure to rotate or flip the work piece. Both sides were given the same treatment to create a mirrored effect. One quick note..... The final finished depth of cut on this part will be .0625. At this stage of things, I'm only cutting own to about 0.040. This gives me a chance to correct mistakes as well as play a bit with a couple of visual ideas that might become part of the final version. Thus the reason for the ball end cuts.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-3.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-3.jpg
The phioto below shows the reason for the holes drilled at the 45° points. They are the pivots for the long cuts from one arm to the other, as well as for cutting the openings I'll soon add to the arms. Still not working to final dimension on any front. the Z is still at 0.040 and I'm working 0.020 from any of the final side cuts. If I screw up, I'm still going to be able to fix quite a lot of stupid...(grin)
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-10.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-10.jpg
Once I had a good visual grasp, I began to work toward the final design. The arms were freed along the long arcs, but the ends were left attached. The excess metal was removed along the edges as well as the surfaces. I'm still working above the final dimensions but things are moving quickly to the point where the final elevation and side cuts will be made. Both sides of the work piece are still getting identical cuts, so there is a lot of relocation happening between photos.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-4.jpg
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-4.jpg
Here the final elevation was finally cut, leaving a thickness of 0.125 inches. Plenty to work with when it comes time to do the hand filing. The webs will be opened, so I've center drilled the ends of the opening with a #30 drill, which is just slightly larger than the 1/8 inch end mill I'm using. This will let me center the mill as well as giving me just a tiny bit of room to exit the cuts without crashing into metal I want to keep.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-5.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-5.jpg
Here, the small openings are being cut in the web of the arms. These engines have a rather delicate appearnce when they are completed, so I'm avoiding having large flat areas for both the delicacy idea as well as being able to see through the parts.
Something not quite obvious.... The initial idea was to leave the inner "rim" intact and square the ends. I began cutting and realized the cuts would be easier to make as a single arc, if I let the cutter run through the edge of the rim. Instead of a squared edge, the bases of the arms would flow right into the cylinder walls for a nice clean effect. I watch for small changes like this to add a bit of flourish. It also made the final separation much easier, since a single cut around the inner rim would free all four arms.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-6.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-6.jpg
All cuts have now been made to final dimension. No fresh metal to work with if I screw up now, it'll take luck and hard work to correct things if anything goes pear shaped. The piece has been cleaned up a bit with fresh ball cuts to blend the corners and shape the ends of the arms. The final arm is waiting to be released from the spare metal and all is well. Here is a good time to make even lighter cuts than normal, just so the end mill doesn't get that last nasty bite at your work.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-7.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-7.jpg
The part is now free of the original metal. I've heard it said that there is a part hiding within each piece of metal. All we have to do is remove everything that is not part and we get to liberate the part. You've just made that journey with me. My wife wandered through as I was making this photo and I almost lost the part to her. She now wants me to duplicate this stage of things in stainless steel so she can have one to wear on a chain. The hazards of metal machining are not all blood and stitches.....LOL
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-8.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-8.jpg
Here are the final parts, awaiting my hand and a small file. They are not nearly as rough as the camera makes them look. Between the sharp focus of the camera and the harsh light of my shop, the small machine nmarks look like the are of Grand Canyon scale. A little work with the needle files and these puppies will be ready to bolt to the tandem engine. Now if I can only come up with something a little different for the single cylinder.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-9.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-9.jpg
Steve
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:jaw: :jaw:
Bernd
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Cedge
A+++ and go to the head of the class. :ddb: :ddb:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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:bugeye: :bugeye:
:clap: :clap: :clap:
:bow: :bow: :bow:
David D
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Cedge, that is beautiful work, I just have to wonder if your wife has any idea of the difference there is between machining brass or bronze, and machining stainless. I found your method of setting the "touch off" of the end mill interesting, I was taught to use a cigarette paper, and bring the cutter to just hold the paper, and move the cutter till the paper moves with slight friction, and having exactly a thousandth after that. The old guys in the shop said it was too easy to put pressure on a feeler gauge and not know it, but impossible with the paper. Obviously you haven't let it interfere with your skills, just a curious difference in experience. I think you are making the project art, by ensuring all that open space, and all the visibility. It makes a world of difference, even if it does impact a bit on the time it takes. I end up working with stainless on a regular basis, and some of them will literally reach out and grab a chunk of flesh and rip it out of your hand while you are being dutifully careful. I can't wait for the video of the first engine, or for that matter, the second one either. :jaw: :bugeye: :headbang: mad jack
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Jack...
I'm smarter than that. I put her on the list of "to do's" and then I'll let time take its toll on her memory. It'll still be there on the list but it isn't going to move very much. If her memory doesn't fade quickly, I can show always her it's still there....... when I get to it. .....LOL. A wise friend told me that his shop existed only to keep him entertained and occupied until he's called to a higher place. I had to agree with his definition. Time has no real meaning in such a place, so if it takes 1 minute or 12 hours, it's just what it takes to get it right.
I've used the paper trick as well, but the shim stock is just easier to keep right there on the machine. It has a small nest just above the quill's fine movement dial. I've never really noticed any problems with it, but I work by feel. The minute can feel the end mill scratching the metal, I reset the DRO. Since the scratching doesn't leave any visual mark, I figure it's somewhere around .0001 - .0002 plus, or minus. I might use that level of tolerance for marking out, but would need a much more rigid machine to actually mill in that nether region.
I finally found something that will produce a nastier ribbon than stainless. I recently played with a marine grade of cupro-nickel which is still in the bronze family. Wicked stuff. If it isn't making razor spirals of death, it yields millions of microscopic needles that can penetrate nearly any substance known to man. I'm eventually going to use it for an engine project, but I'm not in a hurry.....LOL The stuff makes 304 stainless look user friendly.
Steve
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Well, I thought you were going to produce something stunning, special and innovative Steve.....
Holy 5417!!! :jaw: :bugeye: :jaw: It seams I was correct :thumbup:
Gotta love the way the mind figures all this stuff out ehh? :smart:
Most impressed/dumbfounded/flabbergasted :scratch: ( take your pick... :) )
Ralph.
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Thanks Ralph.... I'll choose flabbergasted..... LOL
I spent today sitting on the back deck in the sun with a small file and four small pieces of brass in hand. I decided to take it easy, after having broken a rib (the short floating one at the bottom of the left rib cage) over the weekend. Standing in front of the mill just didn't have a lot of appeal for, some reason. I did manage to get most of the tool marks removed as I hand shaped the pieces. Unfortunately, this turn of events is likely to slow my progress for a few days. I'll get to a few minor items, but I'm going to give the next push some delay to let some of the soreness diminish. Anyway.... here is what the pieces look like with a bit of hand work and a spot of polish. they'll still need a minor modification to the bases, but they do fit nicely.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-11.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-11.jpg
Steve
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Amasing what a back porch and bit of sunlight can produce.
A can or bottle of your favorite beverage would have gone along nicely with that filing job and may have helped alleviate the pain a bit. :)
Bernd
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Bernd....
Trust me.... the favored beverage idea was a serious consideration later in the day. If I hadn't been removing very tiny spots of metal by then, I just might have succumbed to the temptation. No telling what I'd have had to correct tomorrow....LOL
Steve
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Jack...
I'm smarter than that. I put her on the list of "to do's" and then I'll let time take its toll on her memory. It'll still be there on the list but it isn't going to move very much. If her memory doesn't fade quickly, I can show always her it's still there....... when I get to it. .....LOL. A wise friend told me that his shop existed only to keep him entertained and occupied until he's called to a higher place. I had to agree with his definition. Time has no real meaning in such a place, so if it takes 1 minute or 12 hours, it's just what it takes to get it right.
I've used the paper trick as well, but the shim stock is just easier to keep right there on the machine. It has a small nest just above the quill's fine movement dial. I've never really noticed any problems with it, but I work by feel. The minute can feel the end mill scratching the metal, I reset the DRO. Since the scratching doesn't leave any visual mark, I figure it's somewhere around .0001 - .0002 plus, or minus. I might use that level of tolerance for marking out, but would need a much more rigid machine to actually mill in that nether region.
I finally found something that will produce a nastier ribbon than stainless. I recently played with a marine grade of cupro-nickel which is still in the bronze family. Wicked stuff. If it isn't making razor spirals of death, it yields millions of microscopic needles that can penetrate nearly any substance known to man. I'm eventually going to use it for an engine project, but I'm not in a hurry.....LOL The stuff makes 304 stainless look user friendly.
Steve
I figured you'd had the experience and just chose the other way, for those with a keen sense of touch it doesn't really matter, it's the attention that does the trick. I've run into that cupro-nickel you're talking about, the last machine shop I worked in specialized in boat shafts, repairing, straightening, and replacing with new, and I have to agree, that stuff makes stainless child's play. That is a fine looking pair of stanchions you've got filed and sitting on the cylinder, they fit the image of the rest of the work right nicely. That rib thing will go away before you know it, and you'll be standing in front of the mill in no time. Damn shame a bit of silver solder won't fix such things so easily. I'm looking forward to seeing it either standing up, or laying down, with a con rod and a crank attached. :beer: :headbang: mad jack
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Jack....
The rib thing was not on my to do list and it's annoying me somewhat to not have the stands underway. The silver solder wasn't an option on another front. I've got to turn the round stubs down in the next few moves, but they are going to be needed to locate the stanchions properly. With the stanchions being permanently mounted the stubs can't be turned down. One of those chicken and egg moments.
It's not too far from the con rod and crank fitting. Once I've got everything mounted on stands, I can work from elevation to fit them. Then it'll be time to begin the valve work and such. I'll have to admit the project has moved along more quickly than expected.... especially when compared to the Victorian engine. Those items will slow things down a bit. I've refused to set any deadlines for completing these, so I'm not working under the gun, as I was last season. Thank the gods, this project shouldn't require all the spastic gyrations the little IC engine needed at start up.
Steve
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Cedge
The problem with this post is I have to immediately rush to the
shed and try the thecniques you show, leading to many late late
nights, seriously p!@#ng off SHMBOO. Please please keep going.
br
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Roger BR... we'll try to keep her fully p*ssed off for the duration....LOL. Now then.... what are you going to do with your 4 little stanchions?....(grin)
Steve
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Jack....
The rib thing was not on my to do list and it's annoying me somewhat to not have the stands underway. The silver solder wasn't an option on another front. I've got to turn the round stubs down in the next few moves, but they are going to be needed to locate the stanchions properly. With the stanchions being permanently mounted the stubs can't be turned down. One of those chicken and egg moments.
It's not too far from the con rod and crank fitting. Once I've got everything mounted on stands, I can work from elevation to fit them. Then it'll be time to begin the valve work and such. I'll have to admit the project has moved along more quickly than expected.... especially when compared to the Victorian engine. Those items will slow things down a bit. I've refused to set any deadlines for completing these, so I'm not working under the gun, as I was last season. Thank the gods, this project shouldn't require all the spastic gyrations the little IC engine needed at start up.
Steve
Steve, I wasn't suggesting the silver solder for the stanchions, but for the rib :lol: :lol: I know you've got to get everything lined up before you can use it on the engine. I made it through my first year I can remember without breaking a bone last year, after I made a resolution, which happened right after I broke four or five bones in my foot, a few fingers, and a rib all in one year. Of course a month after I'd made it a year, I broke another finger, so things are back to normal, if still breaking bones is normal after fifty. :lol: mad jack
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Steve, beautiful work. It is truly a shame we never had you in the manufacturing industry.
I do have to give the modders here some insider info; when I visit Steve's shop there are many "extra" parts laying around. Possibly a misplaced hole or even a change of artistic design. But I've yet to see a part stuck in the wall. In my opinion he does very well at learning from his mistakes and not letting it get to him. I think that is the biggest hurdle for most of us. If I make a bad part, I continue to hold onto that and let it burden me moving forward.
Again, awesome work man.
:bow: :jaw: :bow: :jaw:
Tim
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Tim
About time for you to drop in for another visit....LOL. Thanks for the vote of confidence. True... I do have more than a few extras laying about. Luckily, many of them get recycled into new parts.... or sometimes just new extras....LOL. My scrap box runneth over.
Steve
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Hi Cedge, the funny part is if you continue to build long enough, most of those parts which didn't work either work in another project, and some of the work is already done, or they are already pared down "stock", from which to make different parts from. I do buy new stock from time to time, but most of what I use comes out of scrap I've collected, or scrap I've found at the scrap yard, and traded my scrap metal for their scrap metal, usually with me kicking in some "to boot". It doesn't do any good to throw them when you screw a piece up, you either have to go pick it up and put it in the box, or you run over it with the lawnmower, or when you do get that sudden bit of inspiration, and see where it would be perfect, you have to go find the thing in the dirt under the grass. Easier just to toss it in the box and pretend you aren't upset, and it doesn't affect you. :headbang: mad jack
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Jack...
My horde of extras has saved me a lot of money. Some of the smaller pieces are almost embarrassingly small from having things whittled from them. I don't throw dollars into the woods either....LOL.
The past week has been a bit of a grind. The rib has gotten less sore, but only because I haven't given in to it. Teeth are now fully ground and my reflexes are quite highly honed to any movement near the damned thing. I still managed to get a few things done, but this morning was the first time back turning the dials on the mill. Most of my time has been spent cleaning up solder spots, fine tuning some of the hand filed stuff and cussing the cat. He likes it when I'm doing bench work and tends to land in my lap at the most inopportune moments.
Today I tackled a small conundrum. The arms need two small but accurately placed holes in each of the small webs at the big ends. The snarl comes when you realize there are no straight edges to clamp in the vice. Add to that the fact the the hand shaping was done to visual standards rather than to specific measurements and you've got to think out of the box, down the block and around the corner to find your solution. Ok.... so maybe not quite that far, but I've still got to drill the holes and they have to be uniformly located to match up to studs and against a solid edge.. So what's an overbeard, nearly no haired, former leaping gnome to do?
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-12.jpg)
Two points in the making of the arms were rock solid.... the two pivots. Everything I did to the arms was based on them, so we know they are indexable. That is where it begins. I drilled holes to fit 3/16 dowel pins in a small chunk of aluminum, on the same centers as the original tooling plate.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-13.jpg)
I touched off the bottom edge of the stanchion to establish my cut line and then removed it so nothing untoward happened to it. I then made a light cut and replaced the arm to check the fit. With one minor move of the X axis, the fit was nice and snug without needing any significant force to seat the dowel pin in the head hole. If you've noticed the small notch on the bottom side, you'll have to forgive me for taking you along on the second run through of this process....(grin).
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-16.jpg)
Here you'll see the slot I added to give the drill bit access to the brass part when the drilling begins. The part was simply too narrow to allow drilling guide holes, so the open galley was Hobson's Choice.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-14.jpg)
The addition of a hold down was not a choice but a requirement. There isn't a lot of meat holding the base of the stanchions so some support in the way of a 6-32 screw will help ward off the gremlins from attacking during a delicate bit of drilling.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-15.jpg)
The extra metal on the "big end" will have to go if I'm to be able to access the part with a center drill. I do not drill holes without having center drilled them, even in nice open easy work spots. I'm certainly not going to miss doing it in a tight spot like this. I've got one shot at getting it right, so I'm giving things a lot of ounces of prevention here. My handy dandy carbide tipped arbor saw made quick and clean work of the task.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-17.jpg)
Here is the jig after both sides were cut and the excess metal removed. The reason for needing both sides may not be obvious. The two cylinders are of different diameters. This is because they combine to form a compound system where the larger cylinder accepts expanded steam from the smaller high pressure cylinder. Expanded steam requires more room so the low pressure cylinder has a larger bore and therefore a larger outer diameter.
The arms were cut to fit the larger diameter for convenience, knowing that a modification would be needed. A .060 rim was then cut and soldered to the bases of two of the arms. This gives the holes in the heads the same elevation so they accept the 3/16 shaft without binding. Two different diameters means I had to cut two different sized arcs in the jig.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/arm-18.jpg)
This little jig will serve double duty as I continue to hand fit the stanchions. It will give me a good reference for keeping things square as I continue to remove tool marks and head for the final polishing phase. I like it when one tool can do more than one thing..... a bit of efficiency laziness never hurt anyone....LOL.
This project didn't make any major advances in the engines, but it does give me a chance to share jig making with the new guys. There are many ways to skin a cat and setting up a jig is one of them. Don't let yourself get stymied by a vise and clamps when a part is not an easy set up. Look at it and see if you can secure it with something that is easier to tie down.... and then make your own jig.
Steve
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Nice setup Steve. Parts are looking fantastic!
Eric
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:bow: :bow: :bow: nicely done Steve Im learning all the time :clap:
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The rib is still pretty sore so I've been doing hand work and some of the details that would normally wait until later in the project. I'm really not enjoying the lathe or the mill at the moment, so no huge dramatic tricks in this post.
The original engines of this sort had added support for the long cross head guides. I had planned to leave this detail off the engines, but since I'm stuck with doing detail work so early in the project, I decided to give it a go. This meant reheated an already complicated solder job for more soldering. The "fin" was cut on the mill for a snug fit on the ends. making it a little easier to position the piece and get it centered. I turned a plug of aluminum to fit the bore so the window pieces were supported from within. Once the fin was in place, the whole cross head guide was wrapped at 3 points on the outer surface with thin mechanics wire to lock the window against the plug. This assured nothing was going to move, even if there might be some new solder seepage. After sweating the piece in, a bit of hand work was called for to clean the joints and polish out some file marks, here is what I had when it was all over.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-1.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-1.jpg
All the stanchions are now fitted and their tiny studs trimmed to size. The studs were a bit of a challenge mostly because of the 1-72 threads wanting to strip the first time I tapped them. A bit of minor adjustment to me, the operator, soon sorted things out as I once again learned the need to be patient when working with tiny things. The stanchions fit just as hoped for and the shaft alignment is dead on centerline and free enough to turn with two fingers. The fit is such that the arms are not yet bolted down in this photos. Did I mention that I really do love the DRO on the mill?
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-2.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-2.jpg
Almost all the 2-56 studs have been trimmed and will get their nuts when I begin the final assembly phase. The valve ports are now opened up in the low pressure cylinder and have received some hand work to give their edges a nice rounded shape. This was done using small needle files and 400 grit sand paper to keep things smooth and properly shaped. It only takes a tiny bit of misplaced sanding to show like a sore thumb, so great care is being taken to get it right. After all... I've got the time, while I'm not getting to make bigger parts....(grin)
The cylinder head was given a 3/8 ball to finish it out. This was made using my handy dandy ball turning attachment. I think it added just the right touch to the overall look.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-3.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-3.jpg
Here is the obligatory test fit photo. Nothing but the cross head guide is bolted on. The joints are all nice and tight, the graphite packing is installed in the stuffing boxes of the glands and the pistons and cam shaft are aligned well enough to move by hand. Once it is all secured, a bit of run in time should loosen things up nicely.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-4.jpg
Steve
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as my kids would say "steve thats sick"..............and an old fart like me would say "holy $#*! that is some amazing workmanship" :bow: :bow:
do you have plans or do you just see it in your head and build it?
chuck :wave:
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Thanks Chuck
No plans, just a few sketches from photos found around the net. I just build what I see behind my eyeballs....LOL. not everyone's cuppa tea but it keeps me at home and out of trouble. The wife still says it's all cheaper than my days trolling the bars and pubs... and she knows where to find me.
Steve
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as my kids would say "steve thats sick"..............and an old fart like me would say "holy $#*! that is some amazing workmanship" :bow: :bow:
chuck :wave:
Chuck,
I just sit here, eyes wide..... :bugeye: ........ And shake me head in admiration! (http://serve.mysmiley.net/confused/confused0066.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net)
Steve,
I wish I had just a little of your imagination..... (http://serve.mysmiley.net/confused/confused0024.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-laughing-smileys.php)
David D
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Steve,
Outstanding hand work. All those blended corners looks realy nice. :thumbup:
I need to learn that type of paitents. Can't wait to see and hear that engine run.
Bernd
-
The rib is still pretty sore so I've been doing hand work and some of the details that would normally wait until later in the project. I'm really not enjoying the lathe or the mill at the moment, so no huge dramatic tricks in this post.
The original engines of this sort had added support for the long cross head guides. I had planned to leave this detail off the engines, but since I'm stuck with doing detail work so early in the project, I decided to give it a go. This meant reheated an already complicated solder job for more soldering. The "fin" was cut on the mill for a snug fit on the ends. making it a little easier to position the piece and get it centered. I turned a plug of aluminum to fit the bore so the window pieces were supported from within. Once the fin was in place, the whole cross head guide was wrapped at 3 points on the outer surface with thin mechanics wire to lock the window against the plug. This assured nothing was going to move, even if there might be some new solder seepage. After sweating the piece in, a bit of hand work was called for to clean the joints and polish out some file marks, here is what I had when it was all over.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-1.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-1.jpg
All the stanchions are now fitted and their tiny studs trimmed to size. The studs were a bit of a challenge mostly because of the 1-72 threads wanting to strip the first time I tapped them. A bit of minor adjustment to me, the operator, soon sorted things out as I once again learned the need to be patient when working with tiny things. The stanchions fit just as hoped for and the shaft alignment is dead on centerline and free enough to turn with two fingers. The fit is such that the arms are not yet bolted down in this photos. Did I mention that I really do love the DRO on the mill?
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-2.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-2.jpg
Almost all the 2-56 studs have been trimmed and will get their nuts when I begin the final assembly phase. The valve ports are now opened up in the low pressure cylinder and have received some hand work to give their edges a nice rounded shape. This was done using small needle files and 400 grit sand paper to keep things smooth and properly shaped. It only takes a tiny bit of misplaced sanding to show like a sore thumb, so great care is being taken to get it right. After all... I've got the time, while I'm not getting to make bigger parts....(grin)
The cylinder head was given a 3/8 ball to finish it out. This was made using my handy dandy ball turning attachment. I think it added just the right touch to the overall look.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-3.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-3.jpg
Here is the obligatory test fit photo. Nothing but the cross head guide is bolted on. The joints are all nice and tight, the graphite packing is installed in the stuffing boxes of the glands and the pistons and cam shaft are aligned well enough to move by hand. Once it is all secured, a bit of run in time should loosen things up nicely.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/detail-4.jpg
Steve
You know Cedge, adding that support was kind of crazy, you know, unplanned, a momentary thought, probably caused by medication for the rib, which I keep avoiding calling it, but you do beautiful work, and it looks like it was made there in the first place. Nice fit with the valve rod stanchions, just waiting to see it with it together and running. It's kind of hard to work to plans when pictures are always forming inside your head, isn't it? You've definitely captured a look which runs throughout the engines, puts them back about a hundred years or so, when steam was king. Truly awe inspiring workmanship. mad jack
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Jack
Sometimes it's a little like living inside a Kaleidoscope. The design keeps evolving, even when I'm sleeping. I was designing the valves in my dreams last night. Picking the changes that will work is the hard part.
Steve
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Jack
Sometimes it's a little like living inside a Kaleidoscope. The design keeps evolving, even when I'm sleeping. I was designing the valves in my dreams last night. Picking the changes that will work is the hard part.
Steve
You know Steve, it sounds like we do much of our work in the same way. I can look at plans, consider what they suggest, and intend to follow them, but once I start cutting, the ideas which are mine, and hid in the back of my mind while reading, come out and insist on being used, and I've found my work generally turns out the better for it. Where are you located, if you don't mind my asking? I'm in eastern North Carolina, having served here for years in the Corps, I decided to stay and not return to Chicago for some odd reason. By the way, putting in a piece of aluminum to absorb the heat and keep from screwing up the rest of the soldering was a good plan and looks like it worked out nicely for your soldering job. mad jack
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Jack....
Sticking to the instructions was never something I willing did. If I tried, I'd soon lose interest in the project. I'm perfectly content to wander off in my own direction if only to see how much trouble I can get into....LOL I'm not all that from away from you. I'm in North Western SC, just down road from the Greer BMW plant. Check your private messages for my phone number.
Still taking it easy, but I did manage a little time on the mill.... for which I duly paid the toll. I'm ready to begin establishing the elevation for the crank and flywheel which will soon need to be made and fitted. The project for the day became making the first of two stands that support the cylinders. As the photo below shows, things began with a bit of layout work. The design was scribed into the brass as a guide, although some adjustment would naturally occur during machining, as needed to please the eye.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-1.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-1.jpg
The first step was to drill a couple of pivot points. The marks were center drilled after the wiggler was used to locate them.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-2.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-2.jpg
This piece does not have but a couple of critical dimensions, height and the radius that will support the cylinder, The other radii were cut using an end mill and were simply aligned according to the marks. This allowed me to sneak up on the lines before milling the holes. These holes serve a dual function by creating a nice curve at various places on the part while giving me escape points for the straight cuts.
Here you see the web being milled, using a small 1/16 ball end mill. This is where the visual adjustment came into play. The original layout was for 1/16 flanges, but this proved to look a little clunky so they quickly became 1/32 wide.
The small table in the photo is a modification of the Rounding Table Marv Klotz introduced to the forum in days gone by. Mine has a round top making it perfect for not only rounding ends and cutting arcs, but for things like these web cuts on angles. The stops make it easy to align the cut and hold in in place.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-3.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-3.jpg
Here is the "finished" stand, needing only a little more tool mark removal and a couple of holes to secure it to the collar of the cylinder assembly. The flat base and The edges of the flanges were rounded a bit and the feet were blended into the base.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-4.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-4.jpg
Amazingly, the cylinder assembly is almost perfectly balanced and will sit atop the stand with no assistance. I'll still need to add a second support under the cross head guide to compete this phase. I'm quickly running out of things to do that don't require working on the machines, so lets hope some significant healing begins real soon.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-5.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-5.jpg
Steve
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that is dropdead gorgous Steve. I wish I had your tallents then I would have finished my loco ages ago instead of a box full of useles parts and no enthusiasm to continue :(
cheers graham
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Wow Steve, that looks nice indeedy!
Learning a lot from this build. I have always wondered how people get certain shapes when machine things... now I know some!
Top job
that is dropdead gorgous Steve. I wish I had your tallents then I would have finished my loco ages ago instead of a box full of useles parts and no enthusiasm to continue :(
cheers graham
Graham... don't give up. Take a break. Make something else. Take enthusiasm from Steve and others!
Eric
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Graham... you need to discover the theory of making "one perfect part". By making one part at a time, both physically and mentally and forgetting there are 300 more to go, you take the pressure off the project and before you know it, all 301 pieces are ready to assemble and test.
Still getting bits and pieces done here. The cross head guide support is done, but hardly warranted a post after the last support was already documented. It came out nicely and fits well enough that I'm hoping no shimming will be required for final assembly.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-7.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-7.jpg
The next photo is somewhat of a teaser, as it shows a bit of the thought process going on about things in the future of the build. I've been waiting for Birchwood Casey to ship me the Brass Black I'd recently ordered. This stuff is basically a tarnishing agent that will produce a deep black finish without changing any dimensions. Paint could have been used, but it doesn't adhere to brass very well.I had considered Japanning the surfaces, but that technique is hard to control and getting it off unwanted surfaces is a challenge. The Brass Black was the next best solution. Why not use natures own process?. We al know how stubborn that surface finish can be....LOL
Oh yeah... you noticed the bricks.....(grin). This engine will be displayed as if it were on a factory floor. The bricks are from the doll house department of a local hobby shop. Doll house guys are quite demanding, where materials are concerned, and these bricks are no exception. They are made to 1:12 scale and are actually made from real clay. they come in sheets and can be cut to fit the need. More on this subject when it comes time to use them in anger.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-6.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/stand-6.jpg
Steve
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thanks for the encouragement Steve. Im liking what I see even more and the bricks will be magic :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
cheers Graham
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thanks for the encouragement Steve. Im liking what I see even more and the bricks will be magic :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
cheers Graham
The whole blummin lot`s magic to me, Graham! :bugeye: :bow: :bow:
Incidentally..... Shouldn`t you be in bed? :scratch:
I nearly am! :thumbup:
David D
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607 am david time to get up here
sorry for the off topic
cheers Graham
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Boy I wish bricks like that came in 1 to 1 size. I'd probably have the out side of the house donw by now. :lol: :lol:
I was going to ask were you got those nice looking bricks from, but you answered that in the second pic. Nice job Steve. That black is going to look real nice with that shiny brass. Nice contrast.
Bernd
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Jeeze guys.... LOL.
Didn't get a lot done tonight, but a little progress beats none at all. I spent most of the day at a local tractor and engine show and met lots of miniature engineering fans and even a local hobby machinist or two.
The valve bases on one cylinder are now ready to receive their bosses, so that I can move on to the other cylinder for some catch up. Once all the new bosses are installed and I have fresh indexing points, I'll switch over and catch up on the third cylinder, before moving on to the cranks and flywheels.
Not sure if the rivets will stay brass or if i will wind up blacking them. They are actually escutcheon pins (small brass dome head nails) that were trimmed and then red loctite was used to secure them. 40 down, 80 more to go.
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/rivets.jpg)
Steve
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Hi Steve, you know what you said to Graham is good advice for anyone starting in any field that relies on skill, as it doesn't just show up, it is discovered one little piece at a time, and more of the final fit and finish can be attributed to "muscle memory" than anything in the brain housing group, it's not enough to know how to do it, you have to know what it feels like when you're doing it right, and only practice can ever give one "feel", not even if your work involves a fifty pound wrecking bar meant for breaking up reinforced concrete.
Paying attention to those who have done it, and offer advice is a good idea too, I tried to get around doing a bunch of glass beading by using an acid etching solution and ended up ruining some carefully machined parts instead of prepping them for the parkerizing I was intending, and had to do the glass beading, and will now be re-making the half a dozen parts I ruined.
By the way, did I tell you how great your engine is looking, sitting on that brick, just waiting for a flywheel and con rod? I'm really looking forward to the video :ddb: :nrocks: :thumbup: :lol: mad jack
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Jack...
I owe the credo to Bogstandard. I was a bit overwhelmed during one of my earlier projects, trying to keep a whole lot of balls in the air at the same time. He suggested that I stop trying to build the whole project and simply build the parts. Since then, I've been a firm believer in the idea. It sure takes a lot of pressure and confusion out of the mix.
Not much in the way of new tricks or tips of late since everything has been pretty much reapeating things already posted. Lots of holes drilled and filled to get where things are now. the pistons and cross head are now in place, the bosses have been turned and loctited into place to receive the valves and the brass black has crept onto some other parts. I'm well pleased with the finish this stuff rendered and will definitely make use of it on other projects.
The vertical stubs on cylinder #2 are only there to give me some idea of elevations and angles for the push rods and eccentrics that will control the valves. From here it's time to attack the other engine and bring it up to the same point in the build, before beginning the cranks, con-rods and flywheels. Other items like governors, shut off valves and mechanical and cup oilers are also beginning to creep into the master plan, so there is a lot left to do.
Steve
(http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-fita.jpg)
http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/multi-valve/build/guide-fita.jpg
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Hi Steve, you're really looking good there, but typically, you toss a bone, and then you give us a whack on the head :lol: so now you've got to bring the other engine up to this point before you start on the flywheel and ancillary parts, it's all a conspiracy to make us wait, I can tell :headbang: I can't speak for others, but I'm dying to watch you connect the con rod and the flywheels to that beautiful rod guide you just added a rib to. That blacking really sets off the brass and bronze and looks fantastic. When I first was learning to be a mechanic, it seemed to me it was impossible to keep up with too many parts, and some of the things I took apart never went together again. Not long after that, I figured out if I could just see where one part fit, and then fit it in place, and looked, there would be another part which would be the only other part that could fit somewhere, and following this, just like looking at making only one piece at a time, I was able to fix things because I could focus on the work without being overwhelmed by numbers of parts, and the confusion of the pile. I've found that even the projects I started, worked hard on, and worked for weeks or months to make run, and never did, had their lesson to teach, and taking life like that means the next one has already had most of its problems resolved before the first piece of metal is turned. You've got to make a lot of really shi**y arrow heads before you have learned to properly knap one that will fly straight on the front of an arrow, and pierce the hide, muscle, and heart of a deer, and is more than a child's attempt at a real arrow point. Great beauty sometimes hides bad work, in your case, Steve, it just showcases the care and attention to detail you put into it, get that other engine up to this point so we can see what you choose for flywheels and stanchions, and all that, to go with that fine, victorian look you've already achieved. :bow: :jaw: :bugeye: mad jack
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I think I now know what your building
(http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s208/Graham-Jilly/steamengine.jpg)
:nrocks:
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I think I now know what your building
:nrocks:
That`s clever Graham! :clap:
BUT! Does Steve know what he`s building? :lol: :lol:
David D
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Shoey.... Your dead spot on, but then I've also had moments where David was equally right. I recently learned these engines are also known as "double beat" and "Drop Valve" engines, which expanded the available knowledge base by several levels of magnitude.
I've spent the past 2 weeks adjusting to a newly diagnosed medical problem....type II Diabetes, so I'm afraid I've been a wee bit distracted. The nice part of the distraction is that I've had a tremendous increase in energy, which I've invested in a few of the more labor intensive projects that I've previously had to ignore. My old 1978 CJ5 Jeep is shining like a new dime and it's running again. All I've got to do now is get it to the local mechanic for some drive train work.
I hope to jump right back on the engines now that I've had a short discussion with someone who has built a similar project. He quickly helped me wrap my head around a couple of things I was struggling to sort out. 10 minutes of conversation probably saved me a weeks worth of trial and error. More to come... just be patient with me for a few more days....(grin)
Steve
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Sorry to hear about the diagnoses Steve. Make sure you keep an eye on it.
Take your time. Get to the build when you can. We will all be here.
Eric
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I've spent the past 2 weeks adjusting to a newly diagnosed medical problem....type II Diabetes, so I'm afraid I've been a wee bit distracted.
Steve
keep a eye on your toe's and lamps ( eyes) with Type II
Stuart
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Like everybody else, am in awe. :bow: The method and result for that trunk cross head guide blew me away.
Amazing work Steve :clap: thanks for sharing :thumbup:
Nick
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To Shoey51, I had some rough idea of what the original full sized ones looked like, but really appreciate the picture. To Steve, I am sorry for your newly diagnosed condition, I hope you get a good solid handle on it, and it doesn't take you away from the shop too much. Your version is certainly going to be a brighter and shiny than the originals I expect, but I put that down to who's building it. :jaw: :jaw: :bugeye: mad jack
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I was just wandering through this thread in awe at the workmanship going on, and then I come to this page and can actually add a little.
The diabetes wont beat you, it just means a few changes, and to let the docs prod you a bit more often and to make some dietary changes that really we should all have made anyway if we didnt have the bandaid of a working pancreas to hide the habits.
Im 10 years down that road that the docs know about, although I had some of the symptoms since my early 20's but nobody thought to check me for it back then so who knows, and I havent hit 40 yet. Yes there are some days I screw up and pay the price and there's the not mentioned very often by the medical profession mood swings when your out of kilter, but its just something we have to get along with, and to learn to watch ourselves doing it so we dont take it out on others needlessly. But theres other days when I can still do things like I was 18 still, and pretty much all my non diabetic friends struggle to keep up with me be it with a shovel, late into the night partying or whatever.
Keep making those special eye exam appointments and keep taking care of your feet, its the extremities it messes with. And keep building those lovely engines, best therapy you can get ;)
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MrFluffy...
Thank you for your supportive post. So far the transition has been an easy one. We already cooked what amounted to diabetic meals and since I've lost about 50 pounds, smaller portions are pretty much already part of my eating routine. Once I discovered that the major candy companies make sugar free versions of quite a range of their name branded products, my sweet tooth isn't complaining. Surprisingly, no one who has tried my candy stash can tell it's sugar free. It really is that good.
My numbers have fallen to a range that is pleasing the medicos and I've got energy I've not had in quitea long time. In fact, this thread has suffered due to that. In the past two weeks, I've been out and at it by 6:30 or 7:00 catching up on honey do projects that had piled up on me. I've wet sanded, compounded and hand waxed my old Jeep. I just rewired the exterior lights on it today.
I've pressure washed every bit of concrete on my property, including a large parking area, sidewalks, front curb and the long series steps going to the lower level. Then I emptied my shop area and cleaned the floors there too. Anyone who's been in my shop will tell you that was no minor undertaking....LOL. I never figured I'd be doing 16-18 hour days again, but that is the schedule I've been keeping since the sugar levels dropped. The wife wants to know who I am and where I stashed the old guy she'd been sleeping with. She says it's only for idle curiosity because she doesn't really want him back.
Since my wife also works for my primary care physician, the chances of me slacking off on eye and foot checks are rather low. He's a personal friend, as well as my doctor, so he gets away with giving me grief a lot more than I'd let the typical medico.
I did manage to slow down and spend a few minutes in the shop today and began testing my ideas for the valve assemblies. If it cools a bit, I might even get back in there over the weekend and then maybe we can get this thread moving again. This project has not been abandoned, but it did have to go off the top of the list for a short period of time. My apologies to those who have been following my lack of progress. I'll try to do better soon.
Again..... thanks for the supportive nature of your comments.
Steve
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Thanks for the post Steve! :wave:
Two weeks, and no word from you, is just a little unsettling. (http://serve.mysmiley.net/confused/confused0006.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-cool-smileys.php)
Thankfully, I don`t understand wot yer got...... It is/ is not a serious problem, depending on who is telling.
It`s nice to hear you`re "ok", and all is in hand! :thumbup:
David D
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Good to hear your on top of that problem and doing better. :thumbup:
Bernd
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Gentlemen
It is with great consternation that I post this. This thread is being put on hold for the time being. A series of health issues have sort of cascaded on me since early June, taking me out of the shop for safety reasons. None of the issues are life threatening but it does require me to take medication that makes it too dangerous to operate the machines. A fuzzy head and spinning devices are simply incompatible here.
I've got high hopes that things will soon be under control and that I can jump back on the project before cold weather arrives again. Thanks for the wonderful support everyone has shown and please accept my apologies for the unavoidable delay. We'll get her done, but only when it can be fun and safe again.
Steve
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Very sorry to hear that Steve I can only wish that you get well very soon.
Graham
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So very sorry to hear that Steve!
But, your health & safety are paramount.
Sincerest wishes for your full recovery...... Soon! :thumbup:
David D
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I'm very sorry to hear that, Steve, I know what it's like, having gone through similar times with changes in my medication for my Multiple Sclerosis, and having to alter my lifestyle here and there. I wish you luck and wisdom and hope you are able to get back in the shop seriously soon. We can't let this end this thread, someone may have to machine your parts, while you hand finish them with your inimatable style. I hope you're back on the thread soon. mad jack
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Sorry to hear your not not back up to par yet. Take your time the thread can wait your health can't.
Take care and hope to see back at it soon.
Madjack,my wife's got MS. Controlled with copaxne. I get to poke her with a needle every night. Not much joy in that.
Bernd
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:whip: :worthless:
Nuff Said?
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Tim....
You really want a photo of the specific offended area?.....Man, we REALLY need to have a long talk.....LOL
Steve
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Boy, Steve.. Some people are never satisfied, eh?
Email him a picture of your x-rays!
::)
Take care. Get well soon!
Dean
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LOL, Steve, You have bragged about the zoom on that camera but no need to test the limits. :)
I really hope to come over and play shop before the winter gets here. Unfortunately my garage door is about the only part of my shop I can still find.
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Sorry to hear your not not back up to par yet. Take your time the thread can wait your health can't.
Take care and hope to see back at it soon.
Madjack,my wife's got MS. Controlled with copaxne. I get to poke her with a needle every night. Not much joy in that.
Bernd
I'm sorry to hear that Bernd, I started on Beta Seron shots about sixteen years ago, changed to Avonex intra-muscular, once a week after about five years, and a steady accumulation of reactions, did that for about five years, and went on Copaxone, a real problem for someone who has no discernable boby fat, since it's a subcutaneous shot, meaning into the fat layer right under the skin, which I never had any of, and after about five years of that, couldn't stand the lumps of scar all over my belly, the only place I could do shots. I was just going to go off them and let it go, but my doctor convinced me to try the Tysabre infusion. It's done once a month via I.V., at the clinic, and it is riskier, however of all the therapies I've been on, it's the only one which did not, for all effects, give me a severe flu with each shot, and a severe skin reaction. In fact, the day of my infusion, every four weeks, is the best day I will have for a couple weeks, and the last week before my infusion, I'm ready for it and looking forward to the "boost" it always gives me. All you have to do is get over the fear of dying if the infusion happens to carry over a virus across the blood/brain barrier, which will kill you in a couple days. This is also true of all the other therapies, just a lot more likely with the infusion, as it's so direct.
My wife was diagnosed with "fibromyalgia" some ten years ago or so, by a doctor who didn't know what she was doing, and didn't follow up on testing. When we moved and she had to get a new doctor, she happened on a neurologist who insisted on taking MRIs to confirm diagnosis, and found she has M.S. as well. She was on Copaxone for about eight months, but just could not bear the shots, as she's as lacking in subcutaneous fat as I am, and she has no place to inject into that is not scarred by previous shots, or by previous abdominal surgery. She's afraid to try the infusion, the odds scare her, yet there is no other choice at this point, so she is doing without an active therapy for the present. She is still progressing more slowly than I am, so maybe she'll get to try the oral therapy when it arrives. I hope your wife is doing well with the Copaxone, in my experience, it was the least of the counter reactions by my immune system, with the exception of the infusion. Funny, I never really heard of M.S. except in passing, and in no detail until I got it, and now everyone I meet knows someone with it, or is related to someone on therapy for it. I hope you and your wife cope well with it, and it doesn't interfere with life too much. I wish I could say better. mad jack
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Not to hi jack Cedges thread. She's handling the Copaxane well. Been doing so for over 10 years. She's also waiting for the tablets.
Hey, we've learned to live with and are doing well.
Thanks,
Bernd