MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: ozzie46 on February 19, 2010, 01:25:13 PM
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Well I have made a small step on my Loco build. It is the model engineer "Simplex".
Here are the frames leaning against what will become the cyl stock.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02789.jpg)
This build may take quite a while to complete so please bear with me.
All comments and advice are eagerly sought.
Quite a bit of hacksaw and file work went into the frames. Another needed skill to practice for my foray into machining. ;D ;D ;D
The frames are still bolted together as I don't want to separate them til I'm sure I don't need to do more on them. They were cut and drilled as a unit to make sure everything lined up.
Ron
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Your hacksaw and filing work looks to be off to a good start Ron :thumbup:
look forward to following your progress.
CC
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Thanks CC.
Ron
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Hi Have a look around the 'model engineers clearing house' webb site there are neumerous sections on simplex, there's a guy 'Dr John' on that web site who literaly gives a blow by blow description of building one good pic's to, follow the links to his site. Good luck.
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Thanks Maninshed, I found the Simplex web site but couldn't find DR. Johns.
Did find a "Tich" bulid though.
Ron
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Here y'go http://dr-john.org/ (http://dr-john.org/)
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Man! What a gold mine! Thanks Tel.
Ron
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Thanks Tel i'm rubbish at doing links and things on computer, dead down to earth that Dr John bloke calls a spade a shovel.
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.. and a message from the acerbic Dr John 'imself -
Tried to register on the madmodder site, but was told registration is disabled -
Anyroads, maybe you can pass on my message to them others:-
"I saw I was getting a lot of traffic on my website from here so I thought I'd come and see why.
It's my old aboriginal mucker, Tel, who pointed you to my site!
Anyway, I'm not a forummy person and have acquired the tag of "the acerbic DJ", so beware.
However, ozzie46, if you want any hints and help on building a Simplex, contact me through the contact form on my website and I'll do my best to help. I'm not a trained engineer and tend to do things my own way.
DJ"
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.. and a message from the acerbic Dr John 'imself -
Tried to register on the madmodder site, but was told registration is disabled -
Anyroads, maybe you can pass on my message to them others:-
"I saw I was getting a lot of traffic on my website from here so I thought I'd come and see why.
It's my old aboriginal mucker, Tel, who pointed you to my site!
Anyway, I'm not a forummy person and have acquired the tag of "the acerbic DJ", so beware.
However, ozzie46, if you want any hints and help on building a Simplex, contact me through the contact form on my website and I'll do my best to help. I'm not a trained engineer and tend to do things my own way.
DJ"
Hey Tel,
If he is having problems registering, let me know. I can register him. Send me his email and name he would like to use.
Eric
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Thanks Dr. J
Ron
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Heres an what I been up to so far.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02791.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02794.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02793.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02795.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02796.jpg)
Got the frames together and started on the buffer beams.
I have the angle in for the beams. They are bolted to the frames and are supposed to be riveted to the beams, but I was wondering if it might not be better to tap the beams and lock tight screws in and file them off flush with the front of the beams. The rivets were supposed to be filed off too.
Ron
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A friend of mine gave me some ductile cast iron for the cyls. That stuff is nice.
It machines in little 6s and 9s. like steel.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02792.jpg)
He gave me 2 of the round bars 5in by 6.250. Sure is heavy. He said it is "continuous cast".
I got 2 cyls out of one piece so I have plenty left for something else. 5in face plate maybe?
The cyls are supposed to be 3x 2.750x2.375, these are not to finish size yet.
I am going to try to do like "gbritnell" does and profile them and make them look like a casting. Wish me luck.
Ron
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Looking good so far :clap:
Nice chunks of cast you have there :ddb:
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Hi Ron,
Great start on the Simplex. There are a few in our model engineering club and are strong performers and look the part. Don't bother trying to lift it on your own when it's finished though!
Nick
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I haven't posted on this for a while so thought I would get you up to date.
Made the buffers for the buffer beams.
Started by making the bumper part of the buffers
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02797.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02798.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02799.jpg)
I was stuck on how to form the convex on the face of the buffer until Tel's friend DrJ poited me to this site.
http://www.baggo.copperstream.co.uk/me/locos/25inch/helen%20longish/helen7.htm
Go about half way down the page to where he talks about the buffers. Worked really well.
Check out the rest of the site too. Tons of info on Locos. Zee you will love it.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02800-1.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02801.jpg)
I had to put packing in front of the headstock to get the right length of rod for the radius I needed
Thats the reason for the wood clamp in the pic. It's clamping the packing to keep it in place. This is
result.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02802.jpg)
Ron
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Forgot to take pics of making the receiver part of the buffer. I made it in 2 pieces as I didn't have any square stock big enough to turn from. I think the 2 piece bit worked better anyway.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02809.jpg)
Checking fit of buffer into reciever.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02807.jpg)
Here is an assembly view
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02808.jpg)
I mounted them on the buffer beams and tightened up the 3/8 nut on the buffer to hold everything in place and drilled the 4 holes in each square plate and buffer beams. Threaded the beams for 4-40 for 4-40 bolts. I am using round head machine screws to hold things now but I have scale hex head 4-40 bolts for final assembly.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02811.jpg)
On the frame temporarily.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02813.jpg)
Till next time.
Ron
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Hi Ron, good start on that project, it's looking good so far. It's been a long time since I've seen someone use the pin and packing method for getting a good, repeatable radius. It looks real fine on those bumpers, and you can get a good repeatable concave radius if you put the pin between the carriage and the tailstock, I've got half a dozen "center pops", on both sides of the carriage and on both head and tail stock for pins. Those frames look nice too, crisp and on size from the pictures, personally, I like to rivet when ever possible, it makes a stronger joint than a screw can ever imagine, and when it goes right, it's quick and easy, and one can set quite a few rivets pretty fast, just going down the line. I'm looking forward to the putting together of the more intricate parts, in and all around the frames. Great Start, ought to be something to see run when it's done. :jaw:mad jack
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Thanks madjack, I riveted the angle brackets for mounting the beams on the frames. Thats why they are primer painted. I had to fill all the dings and bruises from the hammer. :( :( :( I forgot I still have to mount some 1/2 x1/8 anlgle to the beams to support the running boards so I will probably have more dings to fill. :hammer: :hammer: :hammer:
Ron
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Very nice Ron, I saw someone using that technique for the first time at harrogate exhibition last year.
:thumbup:
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Hi all, I got a little more done on my loco build.
Made the axles and axle boxes. The axle boxes are cast iron and the axles are made from a long bolt made by Caterpillar Machinery. Don't know what it was for but it sure turned nice on the lathe with a very nice finish.
I squared up stock for the axle boxes long enough to make 2 aout of 1 piece so that the hole would be concentric in both the left and right boxes. I drilled to 11/16 then bored to size.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02831.jpg)
I then marked out the boxes and cut in half.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02832.jpg)
Put them in the mill and trued up the saw cut ends and brought to size. Then marked out for and milled the grooves to slide on the horn plates.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02833.jpg)
Then a lot of filing to get the boxes to fit well.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02835.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02834.jpg)
Now a question, I know that the distance between the axles have to be really close as far as the distance between ,say, the leading axle and the drive axle. How big a variance is to much between,lets say, the distance from the leading axle to the drive axle on the right side as compared to the left side?
I hope I'm not confusing you with my description.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron
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Im enjoying this build :thumbup:
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Hi Ron, great start on the frames, in my book, you're not a machinist if you can't use a hacksaw and a file, and come out with good looking, accurate work. Yours is looking good, nice and square and substantial looking. I'd stick with the rivets, they will be at least double the strength of screws down the road, and vibration will eventually test the frame to its limits. Rivets are always a better bet when you're using sheet or plate for framework taking a good load. Once they've obdurated and filled the holes, there's no room for vibration to move sheets relative to each other, as screws leave, even if you locktite. I do a fair amount of riveting in some of my own work, and I use a set of crimpers designed for crimping rings on "quest" plumbing fittings, but have been modified to squeeze rivets instead. I had to weld up the ends, and then grind them down to fit rivets, but they reach in tight places and get full expansion of the rivet body (obduration), and if the head is a counter sunk one, and I countersink the hole, I have very little to file off. Even just using a hammer, I always counter sink rivets at least a little bit, just for extra room for swelling up. If you don't have much experience with them, you might want to try on some scrap, just to get the feel, and know the extra length is extra metal to fill in gaps. Just get your sheet or plates tight up together before you set the rivets. :bugeye: mad jack
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Thanks for looking in shoey51 and madjack.
Madjack, I've already drilled and tapped for screws at this point, I will probably use permanent locktite on the screws when I do the final assmbly Thats good info on rivets as I haven't used them before. Good to know.
I've learned several good things from your posts, as I do from alot of others on here.
Ron
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Been awhile since I posted and have done quite bit on the wheels.
I bought a cheapie 3 in rotary table at Horrible Fright and used it to mount the wheel blanks for milling. I also drew up full size wheels in Turbocad and glued them to the wheel blanks and basically milled to the lines.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02838.jpg)
I used a 3/16 Ball end mill to mill around the inside of the rim and the outside of the axle boss. Then I switched to regular end mill and milled out the spokes and such. Did this times 6.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02843.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02846.jpg)
I didn't fancy trying to round over all the spokes by filing so after a few days of pondering I settled on trying a HSS dremel round over router bit and it workrd but the finish was not very good. It doesn't take much filing to make them presentable though.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02850.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02851.jpg)
I then broke out my new riffer files and went work on the wheels. I have 2 done as far as the profiling goes to try to make them look like cast wheels. 4 more to go.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02852.jpg)
I've never seen cast wheels before other than pics on the computer so I hope they look sort of right.
Still along way to go before these wheels are done but the really hard part is done. I hope!!
As always comments,tips are welcome.
Ron
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I had to take break from all the milling of the wheels and made the eccentric fpr the feed pump.
I had some unkown stainless steel I got from the scrap yard that I had been afraid to use after I had read about the work hardening properties of stainless. Cut off a chunk with the band saw and it seemed to cut really well so stuck it in the lathe and went at it. Man it cut really well. I totally surprised.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02845.jpg)
These will be the steel tires for the aluminum wheels. They are cut from hydraulic cyl rams donated by a good friend that runs a Hydraulic repair business. Still need enough material to make 2 more.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02844.jpg)
I would like to have it setting on its wheels by January. Maybe it will happen maybe it won't..
Oh yeah, I started to get some sores on the palm of my hand from using the riffer files so much as they are double ended. I asked my wife if she could make me a leather palm protector. Oops no leather, so she found an old mitt style pot holder and cut the finger area off up past the second knuckle of the fingers and cut the thumb out too. I used the cut off finger area as more padding in the palm of my hand. I just stuff it inside the pot holder into my palm. It works great.
Ron
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Hiya Rn :wave:
You did those wheels on the HF rotab?? Very nice. I have the HF rotab but haven't done anything with it.
Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.
Eric
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Eric ,I had to repair the table after 2 wheel blanks were done. The gear on the bottom os the table came loos efrom the table. They only put in a small pin in the edge of the gear and table boss to pin the gear tp the boss. It was mostly in the bronze or brass gear and hardly any in the cast iron boss. I used a 1/8 end mill to drill a hole and put in a 1/8 pin and also used some bearing retainer locktight type glue sold by NAPA. Hope I'm making sense about the problem?
You may want to tear yours done and have peek at it before you use it. Don't want it coming loose in the middle of a job.
Ron
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Ron.
Those wheels are looking gorgeous! :thumbup:
I thought they always had to be cast! Never thought of anyone milling 'em...... :scratch:
Blummin, well done! :clap: :clap:
David D
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Ron,
thanks for sharing, I need to do the buffers for my electric soon so that will come in useful. I've bought the material so will attempt to machine mine from square! Look exactly the same as yours which means I must have designed them sort of right! Funnily enough I found some old issues of Model Engineer magazine over the weekend and was just about to chuck them out when I thought, I msut have kept these for a reason - there was exactly that method of forming the radius you used so I'll definitely be trying that.
Good work on the axle boxes too and the wheels are amazing - so much work in those.
Nick
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David D, Thanks for checking and your kind words. They mean a lot.
Nick, Thanks for looking. Yes ,its a lot of work and not without several boo boos as far as turning a handle the wrong way. :bang: :bang: :bang: Some JB Weld here, some there. ::) ::) Although the one in the post didn't need any.
All that filing will warm you up in a cool shop.
Ron
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I've done some more on the wheels.
I got the steel tires heat shrunk onto the wheels. I made an arbor to mount the wheels on to turn them to size.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02854.jpg)
It is a very close fit on the axle bores and will stay in the 3 jaw until all work remaining work on the wheels is done. If I need the lathe I will just pull the 3 jaw off and mount the 4 jaw.
The wheels were turned to .002 more than the inside dia of the steel tires.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02853.jpg)
I stuck the aluminum wheels in the freezer and let them get good and cold. I then turned on, are you ready for it,SWMBOs' electric cook stove and laid the steel tires on the heating element. SWMBO was there while I did it and I'm still here to talk about it. :big:
I let the tires heat up till they got blue then put them on 3/8 plate steel on a little stool and took the wheels out of the freezer and they fell into the steel tires with no effort.
This is what they looked like after cooling down.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02855.jpg)
I had to see what they looked like on the frame.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02856.jpg)
Now I have to grind up a HSS cutting tool to the 3/32 radius called for on the tire tread near the flange. I need to read up on how to turn the treads as well as it seems there are some angles involved.
Thats it for now I guess. Oh I laid out the dimensions on the steam cyls too. Will be working on them soon but I want to make a holding plate to fit my cross slide on the lathe so I can line bore them on the lathe.
Till then I wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and Happy and Joyous New Year.
Ron
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Look like castings but better :thumbup: brilliant work
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Thanks Nick.
Ron
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:bugeye: those wheels look stunning :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob
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Thanks Rob.
Ron
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Hi
I have being building a simplex too over the last few years. I now put it on hold while I build a 4 inch scale traction engine instead.
Just one thing to point out is an 'error' on the drawings. The front frame cross member not the front beam but the large square piece that is over the pump. This needs an 1.25 ish hole putting in. This is to get to one of the oillers. Can;t add any more at the moment as I have not worked on it for 18 months and the fine details fade. ( Also I just had 2 glassses of whiskey) :beer:
Mike
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OMG Mike, its so early in the morning! What on earth are you doing boozing this early?
:D :) :lol: :beer: :D :) :lol: :beer:
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Thanks for looking in Mike. I did bore a large hole in that cross member. Luckily I had seen pictures on the net of frames that had the hole. As I didn't have any reference as to how large to bore it, I made it about 2 in. Figured I would need to get to the eccentric strap too, so made it big.
If you think of anything else by all means please let me know. I need all the help I can get. :zap: :zap: :lol: :lol:
Ron
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mate you did a top job on those wheels :bow: :bow:
cheers Graham
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Thanks Graham.
Ron
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Hi Ron, I was just looking in on your build, and I have to say, those are some of the best looking wheels I've seen, and you certainly succeeded in getting them looking like they were cast and cleaned up. Those tires went on a treat as well, and really offset the aluminum. How does the hydraulic ram steel turn? I would think it would be a bit hard, but it might be leaded, as lots of machine work goes into them before they get hardened. When you grind your tools for shaping the tire and getting all the angles and flange right, finish work on the tools with good stones will make cutting much easier, and a better chance of getting all of them machined without re-sharpening them. High speed steel really cuts sweet when it's finely honed. Those wheels will look just right, up against that frame you've got put together. I hope to see it rolling, soon. As far as your question regarding accuracy of axles and wheels, with your plates drilled and filed as one, and your bearing blocks made as you did, you should be within a couple of thousandths on wheel spacing, and shouldn't have any reason for concerns. If they are off significantly, you can expect lots of odd wear on the tires if you plan to run it a good bit. You might have some issues with pressure in opposite cylinders if you are way off, but I can't see that happening with the way you've mated up pieces initially. By the way, the counter weights on the wheels look just right, like they were cast in place, and not at all like they were machined out of solid. You should have a nice, clean looking engine when you've got her on the track. :beer: cheers, mad jack
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Jack; Thanks for looking in. The steel turns well but creates stringer chips a mile long. I have to keep it cleared out or it gets really dangerous. Using HSS I can only take about .020 at the most or it gets so hot it ruins the cutting edge. I'm turning at 150 rpm as that is the slowest my lathe will turn and feeding at the slowest my lead screw will turn. I don't have flood coolant so I brush on, of all things, "crisco" for lube. I tried turning dry and had to resharpen very often but after using the crisco I think I had to sharpen once on the remaining 4 wheels.
Had a bit of a disaster on my last operation on the wheel treads. (Wouldn't you know it!) I set my compound to cut a 3* taper on the tread and WHAAAT? It didn't look right at all. Got to checking and my protractor scale on my compound is marked off in 2 1/2* increments. So what I thought was 3* was actually 7 1/2* Cut the tire off and today will make another one to replace it.
Thank you for the comments.
Ron
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Ron,
Back in July you wrote.
...Now a question, I know that the distance between the axles have to be really close as far as the distance between ,say, the leading axle and the drive axle. How big a variance is to much between,lets say, the distance from the leading axle to the drive axle on the right side as compared to the left side?
I hope I'm not confusing you with my description. ...
I've only just read your progress report, so this is a bit too late. But in the construction notes I have for my Fowler Don Young suggests that the axle box horns (riveted on this engine) are fitted and trued up parallel right after the slots are cut in the frames by fitting the Horns then clamping the frames back to back. You then machine across the horns together with an end mill to ensure that, even if the centres of the axles are not exactly in the right place, they will be equal for both sides.
It's all in ME 3504 (I think, don't have it to hand) from January 1975.
Hope this may come in useful for your next engine.
Dave
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Thanks Dave. Thats a good idea. I'll use that one for sure. Thanks for looking in.
Ron
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Mad Jack wrote..
...If they are off significantly, you can expect lots of odd wear on the tires if you plan to run it a good bit. You might have some issues with pressure in opposite cylinders if you are way off, but I can't see that happening with the way you've mated up pieces initially....
I was wondering if the wheels would turn at all. It would seem to me that as the connecting rods on opposite pairs of wheels would have to be different lengths then due to the different between - axle centre lines, you would maybe get a kind of geometric lock effect which would prevent the wheels going around.
Dave.
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Ron,
....A friend of mine gave me some ductile cast iron for the cyls. That stuff is nice....
I used to hate the stuff.
At work I had to machine ADI (Austenitic Ductile Iron) both manually and on a Guildemeister NC machine. We had to treat it like steel, reducing the depth of cut from the normal 1 mm per pass to 0.5 mm and flooding it with suds. If we didn't then it would turn blue very quickly.
I don't know what none austenitic is like, unless it is just like plain SG. I like that stuff nearly as much as CI.
Have fun.
Dave.
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Hi Dave, the austentitic ductile iron is basically virgin cast iron, from good clean ore, with as much as thirty percent scrap steel added. It produces a cross between cast steel and cast iron, and is also known as "nodular iron", which can be machined like steel, has the lubricity qualities of cast iron, and the strength of medium carbon steel, and hardenable like such. It is commonly used in crankshafts of engines and the like, as it casts very cleanly, with little or no inclusions, yet allows the intracacies of an iron casting, that cast steel won't mimic, as it doesn't flow as nicely as iron does. The scrap steel is carefully sorted, and thus the end product is well controlled in its properties. I hope this helps a bit. :scratch: mad jack
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Mad Jack,
Thanks for that. I must have been having a 'senior moment' when I wrote the above. I was a sampler/machinist at a metals lab and should have known that. Probably did, but like the loco picture, I have it in a mental folder I can't find when I need it. :doh:
One thing I do remember about SG is that unlike CI you can't just melt bits to make your castings as it loses some of it's constituent parts and they have to be added back into the mix when melting.
Dave.
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Hi Dave, in truth, nothing re-melts like virgin metal, be it iron, bronze, brass or especially steel. Aluminum is probably the easiest to remelt and get good castings out of, just requiring good fluxing to keep porousity at bay. With the nodular iron, sharp tooling is essential, and failing that, one gets very ugly cuts with strange "hair" and no accuracy at all. The quality of the iron before the addition of the scrap mild steel is a big factor, and even a tiny piece of high speed steel will totally ruin the nodular iron, making for odd hard spots throughout a casting or forging. :bugeye: mad jack
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Well I finished turning the wheel treads and painted them.
I ground up a 3/32 radius tool bit to turn the radius on the tread.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02861.jpg)
Heres how it turned out.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02862.jpg)
set the wheels on the frames to get a motivational shot. ;D ;D
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02864.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02865.jpg)
I turned some spring pins and single pointed the threads on them and will be installing them and looking for some springs at the hardware store.
A little off topic, but I gave myself Kozos' Pennys A3 Switcher for Christmas. That book is full of neat ideas on jig, setups and such.
Ron
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Ron,
Nice job on that build. :clap:
I've got all three of Kozo'z geared locomotive books. Very well written and many ideas just like you said.
Keep up the great work. :thumbup:
Bernd
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The frame / wheel assembly looks superb Ron, that should definitely motivate you! Just amazing work on those wheels - the only shame is, people won't realise they aren't cast! :bow:
Nick
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Thanks Bernd, I'm really enjoying the book.
Thanks Nick. Now on to the cyls. Oh boy!!
Ron
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Ron,
...These will be the steel tires for the aluminum wheels. ..
One thing bothers me about these wheels (they are very nice wheels) and it is that I have found you always get corrosion between a steel surface and an a aluminium one. Particularly where there is moisture.
I was looking at a gear pump adapter plate I made a couple of year ago and noted that all the aly to steel joints had corroded. White fluffy powder everywhere.
Have you considered this point ? And do you think it could be a problem ?
I've visions of the tire coming free from the wheel.
Dave.
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Dave, No I had not considered this possibility.
Would water be able to get in with a shrink fit? I don't know.
Anybody care to elaborate on this?
Ron
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The corrosion is caused by electrolysis, with aluminum being on the wrong end of the scale, and the iron being parasitic. If you've used locktite, that will prevent a catastrophe, and will stop the corrosion when it gets there. Good cleaning of the junction, and some paint which likes aluminum, and sticks well to it, will stop the corrosion by keeping out humidity. Nothing will stop it if it is submerged constantly, or repeatedly in water, particularly salty water. Aluminum forms pores as it corrodes, so even a press fit will succumb eventually, as it makes its own gap as it corrodes. Thin locktite, made for wicking into joints and threads would work well in this situation. By the way, some side rake on the radius tool would get rid of the whiskers and give a smoother finish, along with stoning the edge with a nice hard Arkansas stone. I hope this helps a bit. :bugeye: :beer: mad jack
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Ron,
Guess you'll just have to hope for the best.
Reference your concern in item 45 on this thread.
How far out of parallel are the axles ?
It may be an idea to get the axles/bearing block completely fitted and some coupling rods made up before you dive into the cylinders. Then you can be sure that the wheels will turn properly.
Far easier to carry out any remedial work at this stage.
Mad Jack,
Worst stuff we had to turn was inconel. All the samples started out as square sections cut from parts. You can imaging the hammering that the tool tips took from that operation.
Dave.
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Very good going Ron :bow: :bow: - those wheels are pretty as a picture; well worth the effort you put in!
Personally, I wouldn't be concerned about water damage in there; I'm sure you're not going to drive your loco in very wet conditions, and most of the time it will be indoors and not in use, so the affect of water corrosion would be minimal and very long-term. If there is some, I'd think it would tend to make hubs fit firmer in the rims as oxides are generally "thicker" than clean metal and will expand in the seam.
If you're really concerned about it, give it a good coating of thin non-hygroscopic oil (NOT WD40!) on a hot dry day or after a good hot run - and the oil will wick in and protect it when it cools down and prevent moisture seeping in. That should, IMHO, protect the wheels for longer than the boiler (or both of us for that matter) will last.
Kind regards, Arnold
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Thanks for the info Arnold. I live in a semi arid climate so humidity isn't a problem.
Ron
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The build looks good! If you haven't rounded off the tops of the flanges on the wheels you might want to do so.
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Thanks Kirk. Yeah, I have to round them yet.
Ron
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Got a little bit more done.
Made up the motion plates. Nothing much to show here as its just marking out then using a drill press, band saw and a "Nicholson Hand Mill" aka file work.
Heres the end result.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02867.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02872.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02874.jpg)
Had to mill the angle for the mounting brackets to get it 90*
I need to start on the cyls but I need to make a milling table for my cross slide first so I can line bore them.
Ron
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Those motion plates look real well.
And the rest of the build looks excellent
We've a couple of Guys at our club that run Simplexes very nice engines lots of power.
:thumbup:
Stew
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Hi Ron
Good to see your still hard at it :thumbup:,,,,,,,,,,, the motion plates look great :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Rob
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Stew, Rob
Thanks for looking in and your comments.
Ron
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:thumbup: That's some really nice work Ron.
The "Nicholson Mill" is a difficult, but very handy, machine to learn, but it really looks like you have it mastered :bow:
:beer:, Arnold
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Thanks for following along Kenneth. I haven't commented on your robots yet as the level of work is so far above me I'm just in awe of it. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Arnold, Thanks but I'm by no means a master of the files yet. Still a lot to learn. :dremel: I need to lower my vise so that it is parallel with my elbow. I've read that it more comfortable and easier to control the file. I find I'm rocking the file a lot and not getting the level planes I'm looking for. So much to learn so little time. :(
Ron
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It is with the biggest intresst I am folling your'e project. I am longing for the day when I can see this project built. You are doing very great, thanks for charing with us. :thumbup:
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Thanks Benni.
One of these days .............. :whip: :whip: :whip:
Ron
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Its been a while since I updated this thread so here goes.
I made a plate to go on my cross slide to use it as a boring table to bore out the cyls.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02908.jpg)
Made a boring bar out of some rusty bar and put it between centers to do the boring. Used a set screw to adjust the cutting tool and another to lock it in place.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02909.jpg)
I used a auto brake wheel cyl hone to hone the cyls. For got to take any pics of that.
I used the off cuts of the steam cyls to make the end caps (?) for the cyls.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02910.jpg)
I cut off as much as I could on my 4 x 6 saw to make it as round as possible be for turning them in the lathe
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02912.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02922.jpg)
For the steam chests I chain drilled around the inside of the blocks for the chests and cut out the center with a hacksaw,then milled the insides. I them made the valves and the vale nuts. The valves are cast iron and the nuts a re bronze. The cyls and the steam chest are sat iron as well as the end caps/ cyl heads.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02921.jpg)
The valve rods are stainless steel.
I did some profiling on the cyls to make them more like castings ala kvom.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02919.jpg)
I also took his idea of putiing 2 countersunk cap screws in th steam chest to keep them in place when the top cover is taken off.
I'm going to mill a .020 depression in the covers inside of the gasket area and may do the same for the top of the covers.
That brings it up to date as of today. I will profile the other cyl tomorrow.
The bolts in the steam chests are temporary, proper scale hex head bolts will be put in for the final assembly.
Ron
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Nice work Ron, iteresting arrangement for the side valve.
You can get castings for this loco, but like that your build without them.
I think I'll keep my eyes open for a set of drawings for this loco.
Thanks for showing
Stew
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Nice work Ron, iteresting arrangement for the side valve.
After reading your post I looked at the pic, :doh: :doh: :doh: didn't have the valve nut in the valve right. :loco: :loco:
Model Engineer had the plans for free download a few years back but I think they took them down not long after.
Thanks Stew.
Ron
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Nice work Ron, iteresting arrangement for the side valve.
Model Engineer had the plans for free download a few years back but I think they took them down not long after.
Thanks Stew.
Ron
In that case I've probably got them stashed away someware, I'll have to dig my back issues out.
Stew
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Good going Ron :thumbup:
The steam chest and valve photo hat me puzzled for a bit - till I realised the valve was not in its correct place :-)
Did you get a mill in the meantime, or are you still using the lathe and the Nicholson mills ? - the rounding over on the cylinder looks great. And besides looking good, makes the block less "massive" so it will heat up quicker resulting in less condensation in the cylinder. Are you going to add drain cocks to the cylinders ?
:beer:, Arnold
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Hi Arnold. I have had a drill/mill all along. But some times its easier to just file it up. Usually have it done by the time I would get set up on some things.
I milled a bunch of facets on the sides of the cyls and then filed them round.
The rotory table I have is a cheapie from India. The 3 inch one. I found out its not very sturdy when I milled out my wheels. I even had to repair it once because the gear came loose on the table while I was milling a wheel and they were aluminum.
I need to get off my duff and make a rotory table like you did. That was some nice work.
Yes i'm planning on putting drain cocks in.
Stew, The plans were on the web site about 08" or 09"not the magazine at that time. Although they were in the mag back in ,I think , 1967. I believe thats when the series ran 67" thru 68" or 69"
Ron
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Stew, The plans were on the web site about 08" or 09"not the magazine at that time. Although they were in the mag back in ,I think , 1967. I believe thats when the series ran 67" thru 68" or 69"
Ron
Thanks for the info Ron
Our club has a full set of back issues for members to reference, I'll have to look them up.
Stew
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Time for another update. I have made the cross heads and profiled the cyls and mounted them. Pics follow.
Set the cross heads up in the mill and machined to lines basically. I used a 1/8 ball end mill here.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02923.jpg)
Changed to a 3/16 end mill here.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02926.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02927.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02928.jpg)
I silver solder bronze slippers on them and silver soldered the backs on too.
I riveted in the drop link pins to the front of the cross head. I took a page out of Dr. Johns way of doing things and milled the front plate from solid instead of trying to bend the off set for the pin.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02939.jpg)
I turned the piston rod ends of the cross heads in the lathe but for got to take pics.
Ron
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Have a look at the Cyls and frame.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02930.jpg)
Cyls with the steam chest set on it.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02931.jpg)
kvom had an idea about using countersunk screws to hold steam chest on the cyls when the cover bolts are removed. I thought it was such a good idea. I pinched it.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02932.jpg)
Starting to look like something.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02933.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02935.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02936.jpg)
Still have some work to do on the guide bars.
Thank for looking in.
Ron
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Looking good keep up with the good work :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
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Hi
Ron
That loco is coming along nicely :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I always like to see some good file work :clap: :clap: :clap:
John
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Thanks Benni,
Thanks John, I'm learning a lot about files that I didn't know "I didn't know". Does that make any sense at all? :loco: :loco: :loco: :D :D
Ron
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Made the push rods. Started by riveting 2 pieces of stock together. I didn't have any rivets so I used 16 penny finishing nails. They worked like a charm.
I then marked out the profile and sawed it to rough shape on my 4 x 6 saw.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02947.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02945.jpg)
I then drilled out the big end an little ends and made mandrels to fit the drilled holes as I drilled them to the size of thOD of the bushings. I drilled and reamed the mandrels .250 and mounted the roughed out blanks on a piece of 1/4 thick angle iron for machining.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02948.jpg)
Here they are after machining and sanding. Still have to make the bushings.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02950.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02951.jpg)
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That's fine work you're producing there Ron! :clap: :clap:
It's way beyond my capabilities. But I admire a man as can. :thumbup:
David D
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Thanks David D, But don't short yourself. If I can do it you can too.
I've never done this before and am just following all the advice and techniques I can find on the web and Kozos' book on building the Pennsylvania A-3 Switcher.
I bow to all who have posted said info and am greatly in their debt.
Ron
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It has been awhile since I've updated this, so here goes.
I haven't been doing much but here is what I have. Health issues (mine and daughters)and life has gotten in the way.
Made the expansion links and have started to make the radius rods.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02952.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02953.jpg)
Will post more as it's done.
Ron
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Very well done, just beautifully :clap: :clap:
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Well I've completed the radius rods and temporarily mounted them.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02956.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02957.jpg)
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02958.jpg)
Now to start on the Combination Levers.
Ron
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I've just had a look back to the start, Ron. :thumbup:
A lot of nice pieces, forming a fine assembly....... :clap: :clap:
David D
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Thanks Dave.
Ron
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Got the lifting arms and the reversing arm done.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02958-1.jpg)
And here's how they look on the loco. Still working on the wieghshaft.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/DSC02963.jpg)
Ron
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:clap: :clap: That looks great Ron :bow:
:beer:, Arnold
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Beautiful workmanship, well done :)
Nick
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:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
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Hi
Ron
Some real nice work there
Lots of hand done stuff :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
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Time to catch up on this thread. Nice work you have going on here.
Eric
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Hi Ron
Its always good to see this thread updated :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: Stunning workmanship :thumbup:
Rob
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Hi Ron,
Superb :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: beautiful to look at :thumbup: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Arnold,Nick,saw,Pete,Eric,rob,DaveH,
Thanks guys your support means a lot. It makes it easier to keep plodding along.
Ron
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Hi and Very well done
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Thanks krv3000. You do some amazing work also.
Ron
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Keep on plodding along, in the same fashion Ron. :thumbup:
For over two years now. We're all here, quietly watching and appreciating...... :wave:
David D
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Thanks David D, I'll keep on ploddin.
Ron
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Gentlemen she runs!! On air at least.
(http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/th_MOV03014.jpg) (http://s661.photobucket.com/albums/uu334/ozzie46/?action=view¤t=MOV03014.mp4)
She sounds pretty tight in spots yet but she runs. Yahoo!!! ;D ;D ;D
Still along way to go before it is finalized but at least I know she runs.
Click on pic for video.
Ron
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:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: cracking Job ,Ron :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Rob
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Well done Ron I bet you've got a big grin
:D :D :D :D :D :D
This is of great interest to me as i've joined the simplex owners club, but I cheated and bought a part finished engine.
:D :D :D :D :D
Congrats on a great build
Stew
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Thanks Rob.
Stew, I've been following your Simplex thread on the other site. The pics are helping me quite a bit in seeing how things are supposed to be. Painting the frames on mine will come soon.
Thanks for looking in.
Ron
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Well done Ron! :clap: :clap:
That's really great to see! :thumbup:
BIG smile time.......... Oh. Happy Day! :D :) :D :)
David D
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Thanks David Oh Happy Day indeed! :) :) :)
Now comes the rest . Boiler, feed pump, valves, clacks, brakes(?). All the rest. Still a long way to go.
Ron
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Thats BRILLIANT! Work has kept me quiet these last 18 months but one thread I am following is this one.... so happy for you Ron, and damn impressed!
Well done mate.
Rob
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Thanks Rob. I hope work slows up so you can get in the shop. :dremel: :dremel:
Ron