MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: Stilldrillin on September 14, 2012, 03:44:30 PM
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I have a Pal. Lives in Scotland..... One of several "Apprentices", I have gathered, over the years....... :)
I reckon he'd make a decent Turner. If only we could understand what we were saying to each other, during our weekly phone-ins! :lol: :lol:
He can't quite get a gentle enough feel, from the "big handle, on the front"....... :(
He wants a leadscrew handwheel. How to do it? :scratch:
Tell yer what..... Our lathes are the same. I'll do one for me! :thumbup:
We have the same backlash nut, on the r/h end.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020826.jpg)
Take off the drive gear, key, and spacer from the other end. Then undo the r/hand plummer block.
And, it will slide out........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020828.jpg)
Take off the nut and plummer block, and saw off the 8mm tail. Mount in the fixed steady, and clean up face.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020829.jpg)
Double (or treble) drill to 8mm dia x 1 1/2" deep........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020830.jpg)
8mm silver steel shaft, set in to full depth.
Position 3.5" dia handwheel, to clear fingers. Measure spacer length, and overall shaft length + locknut & washer......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020831.jpg)
Mock up. To see if all lengths are correct.....
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020845.jpg)
Loctite shaft into leadscrew, and assemble........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020848.jpg)
I don't like the idea of a fixed handwheel handle, in this situation. So, this one will reside in the machine tray, until needed.
Haven't used it, yet. Not sure I ever will need it.
But if this helps someone........ :thumbup:
I've finally got around, to several gonna do's this year, and not shown 'em. Mostly mini mill tweaks.
To follow, as and when......
David D
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Nice fix Dave
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Stew
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Good one David, and nice photos as well.
Jim
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Good bit of modding David :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob :thumbup:
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Nice done :beer:
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Stew, Jim, Rob, Benni...... Thanks for your kind words! :beer:
Talking about words...... Looks like I will have to eat mine! (http://serve.mysmiley.net/ashamed/ashamed0002.gif)
(http://www.mysmiley.net)
Haven't used it, yet. Not sure I ever will need it.
Managed 10 mins this afternoon, for a quick play. :thumbup:
The mini lathe power feed is much too coarse. But, this gives a fabulous fine controlled feed! :bugeye:
Thanks for the initial idea Mike! :beer:
David D
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Nice job, David. I found after fitting my handwheel that the power "fine" feed was only used occasionally.
Mine has a dial on it, which helps on things like wanting to turn down stock for a given distance before (for example) threading it. Wouldn't be hard to fit a zero-able dial to yours, if the outer end of the spacer was reduced in diameter to allow a dial and an O ring for friction to fit between the resulting shoulder and the handwheel boss.
Andy
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Thanks for your thoughts Andy. :beer:
Will have to see how things develop. I certainly like the dial/ O ring idea. :thumbup:
One turn is .059", for roughing purposes.
I regularly use my "tyre gauge" digital read out, for more accurate measurements.
David D
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Thanks for the reminder about tyre gauges, David. I bu33ered mine up while trying to mod it. Time to get another, and treat it more kindly!
Andy
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Thanks for the 'how to' guide David, its much easier to follow without the hovis accent :poke: :thumbup:
I jest of course,, its the very next on my list... :drool:
I had a feeling you'd approve once you'd fitted it,, what with all the strange wee jobs you have to do to fix them orphans.
BUT, if it starts gathering dust then you could always banish it into exile up here in jocksville....hoots mon!!!
..Mike...
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Hi Andy.
I just couldn't be without my mini dro. It's one of those widgets which you make as a novelty...... Then realise it's true worth! :thumbup:
Just had another 10 mins making random swarf. It's a much better feed arrangement than the two modes which I've used over the last 8 years! :bang:
I've now removed the 80t drive gear........ :)
Hi Mike.
Hovis accent? Hmmm....... :bugeye:
I'm a little further south, than De Dar Land........ :lol:
Happy memories of Tony Capstick. Now, no longer with us...... :(
Right then. On with the next one.....
Back in springtime, someone mentioned, using a plastic spacer to position taper roller bearings, was not right.........
Makes sense! :thumbup:
So, a swift text, to the long suffering Dave, who still works where I used to...... And 24 hrs later, a nice sized piece of EN something, roughed out bar, arrived.
Thanks Mate! Yer a gem..... :wave:
Topped it to same dia as the inner race.
Then reduced the rest of the dia to clear the 32 tooth, oversize belt pulley.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020468.jpg)
Bored, to give a nice sliding fit on spindle........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020465.jpg)
Then sawed off.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020469.jpg)
Set up as true as..... And faced to finish oal.
Keyway clearance.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020470.jpg)
Looks a little better, I think.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020471.jpg)
Just, enough room for the belt.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020473.jpg)
A definite improvement.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020474-1.jpg)
When setting up the bearing preload. I wind in the locknuts, until any bearing movement has gone. (Checking with 5/8" bar held in chuck jaws),
I then lock the two nuts against each other. Which usually gives a little clearance.
If there's no movement. I assume the adjustment to be too tight, (whether it is, or not)......
Slacken back, using only the inner nut. Until movement is felt.
Then tighten, as little as possible at a time, using only the outer (l/h) nut.
I find, on a cold m/c, when set correctly. There is some spindle bearing drag, when hand rotated, in the neutral position.
But, after a few seconds of motor rotation, the spindle will rotate freely, by hand. With no bearing movement, even when warm. (It never gets hot)......
The offcut? :scratch:
That was made into another spacer, and sent up to Scotland...... :)
David D
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and its working a treat up here,,thanks David your a star...and chatter is almost eliminated now.
I honestly did'nt think it would make much difference but it really has, any chatter i get is coming from other,
not so well fitting parts..but with the help and advice i get from your good self, they parts will be fixed too :thumbup:
thanks mate..
...mike...
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and its working a treat up here,,
...mike...
TWO components. Separated by miles an miles. Both working well!! :bugeye:
I must be improving, at last....... :)
David D
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Can i back track a little and ask what the brass bit is on the lefthand side of the plummer block on your lead screw mod?(second photo) as mine just has a fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block to the nut on the r/h side ..:scratch:
..Mike..
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Hi Mike.
That was my first mod! :smart:
I seem to remember, the leadscrew was machined short, between it's thrust face, and the location of the 80t drive gear. :bang:
So, I faced up the very rough machined, end of the leadscrew, and added a brass thrust/ spacer washer. Moving the leadscrew some 3mm to the left........ :thumbup:
"fully threaded 8mm rod going through the block"...... As in, studding? :scratch:
David D
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:doh: David, its not often i'm right but i'm wrong again...I double checked under the plummer block and its just the same as yours after all :loco:8mm threaded on the r/h last 1/4inch......sorry....
thanks for explaining about the brass thingy..now i can get on with following your instructions without worrying about differences...cheers..
...mike....
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Now for some mini mill mods.......
First off, I really don't like the silly spring saucer, which holds the column.
The column is hollow, and most of the applied pressure is trying to collapse the void........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020367.jpg)
It needs something more rigid, to span the width of the column.
So, once again, I texted Dave. :poke:
And this 4" x 4" x 5/8" piece of plate was delivered, within 24hrs........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020369.jpg)
As requested, he'd surface ground one side.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020368.jpg)
The 2mm offset hole, was drilled and bored to a sliding fit over the 24mm(?) dia thread.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020373.jpg)
Much more contact area, than the original.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020374.jpg)
Slid on with a satisfying plop, when the two ground surfaces came together.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020376.jpg)
A lot of people seem to have used many, more complicated methods.
But, the little machine is rigid enough for it's purpose. Also, nothing has moved in the 9 months since I installed it..... :thumbup:
David D
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I have one of these 4", lo-cost, tilting rotary tables.
After the usual strip and re assembly, it does it's job quite nicely. :thumbup:
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020833.jpg)
But, I miss the ability, just to bolt it on. Having to clock up...... Even for the "inaccurate" jobs....
The 2 bolt holes are some distance away from the centre line...... Time to sort it out!
Mock up........
Angle plate clocked true to Y axis.
R/t set accurately, at 90*.
Baseplate horizontal, in X & Y axes.
Still plenty of head room.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020290.jpg)
"Willy Wobbler", each side of faceplate. Find centre........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020296.jpg)
Mill a, (genuine), centre line. Hmmm......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020298.jpg)
12mm keyway location's, rather short......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020307.jpg)
Extended key length, into central recess.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020308.jpg)
With the key in the way. Can't now use the "central" bolt hole......
Drilled/ counterbored one each side. 35mm spacing........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020322.jpg)
That's secure.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020323.jpg)
New rear hole. Further in, to allow more rearward overhang, if necessary.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020325.jpg)
Starting to look like a Swiss cheese.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020327.jpg)
Very pleased with this mod.
Just bolt on, and operate....... :)
David D
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Dave,
Your RT mod has just reminded me that I have one of these tucked away for later use, bought from Chronos/Arc Euro, (usual disc'r) can't recall exactly, anyway it's something I need to do, & the same for the vice ( thats been fitted & trammed in for now so that will have to wait 'till as & when I move it). I'll have to write up my t'duit list :dremel: as I'm sure to have forgotton something.
Nice mod anyhow & thanks for reminding me so to speak.
cheers
George
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Thanks for your comments George!
The vice is also done...... And will be shown, in a coupla days, or so........ :thumbup:
David D
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Hi David,
Some nice mods there!
Eric
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Nice mod Dave :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Whats next :whip: :whip: :whip:
:D
Stew
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One more here with the same thing on the list for...to long to remember.
Good reminder this! :thumbup:
Q: No need to have a second key at the other side of the center hole for even more stability? Or would that only make it hard to mount?
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Thanks Eric! :beer:
Andreas.
I've found it is plenty good enough, with the present key under the chuck area. Giving a little wriggle room, for more accurate set ups, if necessary.
Most of the time, the rear, (l/h) end is hanging over the end of the table. With the single T nut, just in the end of the slot.
Whats next :whip: :whip: :whip:
Stew.
Here we go........
A pal from me other forum, asked me if I could drill the dummy rivet holes, along and around a traction engine boiler cover.
Should be a nice exercise..... Need a tailstock! ...... And, we were at Harrogate at the time........ :thumbup:
A new tailstock came home with me...... And Good Ol' Dave, received yet another text....... (http://serve.mysmiley.net/rolleye/rolleye0014.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net)
This arrived some time later.
Nice innit? (http://serve.mysmiley.net/happy/happy0144.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net) Dave's a grinder, by trade.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020329.jpg)
Keyway...... Key.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020328.jpg)
Mock up. Had to machine the screw seat areas, to accommodate washers.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020331.jpg)
The screws had to be M8. So, I loctited in, some 10mm studding. Then drill/ tapped M8, as "helicoils".........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020333.jpg)
All assembled, and dowelled together.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020339.jpg)
That's close enough for me.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020335.jpg)
All ready for the boiler rivet project! :)
But..... He's changed his mind! Not building it, now........ :bugeye:
Sigh........... :bang: :bang:
David D
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And...... The next one.
Staying with the "just, bolt on", theme........ Vice key........
It's been done before. This is my version, for my quirky vice.
Gripped my two table stops, at the extremes of the vice jaws........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020818_zps8fa64ab4.jpg)
Can't machine a keyway between the screw slots, cos of the screw heads. The T slot spacing is 35mm.
Table stops located in the T slot. Clamp down.
12mm. keyway. M4 tapped holes.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020815_zps80b48010.jpg)
Full length, 4" key. Just add two c/ sunk screws......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020819_zps6c533e60.jpg)
Snug fit in the T slot........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020822_zps598ea628.jpg)
Within half a thou'. Repeatable...........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020825_zps3cb32e58.jpg)
I'm a bit pleased with that....... :thumbup:
David D
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Nice work :bow: :bow: :bow:
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job well dun
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Jeez David... You are making me look bad!
Awesome work. :thumbup:
Eric
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Benni.... Bob..... Eric..... Thank you for your kind comments! :beer:
Getting towards the end of this year's list now....... :dremel:
We all need a vice stop, at times.
I was going to make the universal type..... Screwed to the side of the fixed jaw. :thumbup:
My vice fixed jaw is pot hard! :bang:
Sooo..... It had to be located in the T slot.
Base...... 5/8" bore, heavy duty washer. Recessed to take a piece of 1" (or so) steel tube.
Head....... Spigots into tube. Drilled through, clearance for 10mm studding. Cross drilled, and sawn part through, for 4mm rod.
The three main components all press together, as an assembly.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020837_zps7735ff1b.jpg)
The un-clamped assembly has a large wobability factor, to locate in best position.
Also the rod can be bent, if necessary.
When the nut's tightened, all is locked solid........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020823_zps8e77212e.jpg)
Hmmm...... Looks like I need to shorten that excess thread, above the nut! :doh:
David D
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Argh ... all these things would make life so much easier, but just can't get around to doing them! At least I'll have this thread to remind me now, nice 1 David, I really think I need to improve my workshop with all this sort of thing.
Also want a boring head, adaptor for rotary table (or at least another chuck), a quick change tool post and and a smaller 4 jaw for the lathe - these will all be on my list to Santa this year, trouble is, I'm 32 and don't get presents of that quality any more!!!!! :lol:
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Blimey! I might even be able to build something like that myself.
And I am sure it would be useful. Every time I stop trying to make things and just make something for the workshop it repays me a thousand-fold. I dunno why I don't do it more often. :bang:
Jim
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THANKYOU , David, Ive wondered loads of times what that thing was, it kept appearing in your photos but i did'nt want to ask and appear even more stupid ..even in your tailstock mod in this thread it made an appearance but i could'nt figure what it was supposed to be....another mystery solved....
...Mike...
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Dave,
Your RT mod has just reminded me that I have one of these tucked away for later use, bought from Chronos/Arc Euro, (usual disc'r) can't recall exactly, anyway it's something I need to do, & the same for the vice ( that's been fitted & trammed in for now so that will have to wait 'till as & when I move it). I'll have to write up my t'duit list :dremel: as I'm sure to have forgotten something.
Nice mod anyhow & thanks for reminding me so to speak.
Agreed, a nice mod to a relatively inexpensive accessory! Having the keys and holes where you want must make it way more useful :) Do you find the tilt locks up properly? I noticed the Big Brass Washer ...
I too have one of those 4" tilting tables, unfortunately the pin the table tilts on isn't parallel to any other surface... By about 3 degrees on the most accurate axis! Well, at least it was extra-cheap, i suppose we all have our off-days.
So... the plan (*any constructive criticism welcome!*) is to bore the hinge points and sleeve, both in the base and the table, and while I'm there I'm tempted to mill the top of the base flat and fit a piece of round bar to the table assembly level with / parallel to / a sensible distance away from the hinge pin (if it'll clear the internal Gubbins), pack the top surface of the base with a piece of gauge plate to get back to 0* tilt, and hey presto, slip in a gauge block and it's a sine-table? The alignment keys are a good idea, but I think I'd need 2 sets at right-angles - my T-slots area weird Olde English size, too!
This would all have to be done on the lathe, though, as yet I don't have a proper mill (sulk sulk, futile notes to father Xmas *and* the Hogfather, a Thiel 159 please!) but at least it has a big T-slotted cross-slide I can bolt things down to!
Dave H. (the other one)
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Nick. I'm twice your age, plus some more...... I have to buy my own presents!
Jim. Have a go! You know it makes sense......
Young Mac Stirling..... It's a mystery to me, at times.......
These mods have taken up a lot of precious, orphan rehabilitation time this year. But are proving well worth it now. :thumbup:
A simple ferinstance.....
I'm finishing the lathe motor, extractor fan. Needed a few small holes drilling through the tinplate ducting. Without collapsing it.....
Just slackened off the vice screws, and slid it over to the left.
Gripped a piece of wood, as an anvil/ mandrel, protruding towards centre of table. Slid the duct over it, and drilled the holes..... Simples!
Then slid the vice back to centre, and nipped up again.
Vice, still in alignment....... :)
David D
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so simpel yet it works well well dun you
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Thanks Bob!
So simple. So easy. Once you've finally taken the time to do what needs to be done........ :dremel:
Dave Other.
Re the washer......I used a Nikken tilting rotary table for many years, in an earlier life.
This locked at angle, with worm drive, and a ring spanner. Rather more secure than the pifflin' handle supplied with this little un!
Oh dear! You got a Friday afternooner..... :palm: :bang:
Thankfully, mine trams parallel to the m/c table when down, and now, parallel in Y when at 90*. :thumbup:
The lock up, pulls the table sideways on the pin...... So, my idea was to machine the rear of the (tapered) quadrant casting, and insert a spacer.
I tried to remove the very tight pivot pin, but gave up when I realised I was in danger of breaking the castings........ (http://serve.mysmiley.net/rolleye/rolleye0014.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net)
Also, the cast slot in the quadrant did not match the arc of the lock screw, so I had to do some filing.
I used a 5/16" thermostat housing stud. Which I also had to file a clearance flat.......
Frankly, I'm happy with it....... No delusions of grandeur here! :D
The boring through/ sine bar idea sounds a good un! :smart:
David D
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Last one...... For now. Probably! :)
I modded my present mini mill, straight out of the box. Including an LMS belt drive...... http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4754.0
The revs are too high for my liking. Will gear down a bit, one day.
The problem, for me is a lack of free spinning spindle, for clocking purposes. The pulleys clash together, before there is enough belt slack.
It needs a longer belt. But, they're not available over here! ........ Unless someone knows differently....... :scratch:
After a few quiet words, with a Gentleman in Idaho. A 1" longer version arrived.
The one on the left.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020714_zps735a4642.jpg)
The longer belt gave just sufficient slack. But was too long to adjust to drive mode. Needs a 1/2 " rearward spacer.
Alloy bar, 1.5" dia x 1" high. Two holes. Should be 1/4UNC, probably! I've only got BSW.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020716_zpse19c8282.jpg)
Slim it down, a bit........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020763_zps6153ae34.jpg)
Installed........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020766_zps91422de4.jpg)
The belt just clears the flange, before the pulleys contact........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020767_zps123456a3.jpg)
Working well.
Just enough clearance when slackened....... 1/4" of movement left, when driving. :thumbup:
David D
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Just when I thought it was all over, and I could re-start the Maiwald fiasco.....
DAaad! Can you just, bend something, to look like this? :)
Only narrower, to fit my new phone....... Pleese!
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020890.jpg)
"Not really. Without it looking very home made. I'll think about it". :smart:
Could machine one. From solid! :thumbup:
Piece of alloy. 40mm dia x 70mm long. Drew the relevant angles.
Started roughing........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020866.jpg)
Open slot, to around 11.5mm......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020868.jpg)
Mill base........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020872.jpg)
Approach angle in throat. Top the step, parallel to base........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020876.jpg)
Chunky..........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020898.jpg)
Fits a treat.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020892.jpg)
Even, stable in vertical mode.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020893.jpg)
I enjoyed a bit of proper milling, and No. 1 son's pleased.
That will do nicely! :D
David D
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WOW great job:----- RU taking orders :D
I'll have two please.
:lol:
Stew
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WOW great job:----- RU taking orders :D
I'll have two please.
:lol:
Stew
Thanks Stew. :beer:
Orders? No. Sorry..... It's unique..... A one off..... Broken the mould. :lol:
Would like to see you make your two, (finger engine?), versions. :thumbup:
David D
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Just a little addendum, to the leadscrew handwheel posting. As I already had the r/table set up, today.
Andy's dial gave me the idea. One turn of the handwheel = .059". Divide by 6 = "10 thou".
A ring of 6 off, 5mm dimples. Including the locking grubscrew.....
And another 6 off, 3mm dimples, spaced between.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020912.jpg)
The "reading" is taken along the line of light, from the overhead striplight.
Quite accurate enough, when "another 20 thou", is needed. :thumbup:
Any more accuracy demands the tyre gauge.
David D
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That's a nifty solution, David!
You'll need to remember to keep your head still while taking off that 10 or 20 thou, so the reflection doesn't move. Or finish up another tin of syrup for the raw materials, so you can add sophistication with a double headed pointer. T shaped with the stem of the T fastened to the lathe bed.
Andy
-
Thanks for the "heads up" Andy! :thumbup:
I have already accuracy tested that theory. During shakedown trials :smart:
3" of for/ aft head movement, gives 2 thou of parallax error........ Approx........ :)
Any pointer will have to wait....... We've just started a new tin! :lol:
David D
-
It's becoming very easy to abandon the Maiwald tragedy, and do something more interesting. (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/confused/sorry-3.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-confused-smileys.html)
Like this chuck backstop, for my mini lathe.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1020999.jpg)
Made from what I had in the bits box. 12mm studding. The 3 loctited nuts, just needed a light corner skim, to fit the bore.
Wedges, and spacer made from a "knocking stick", for Nikken toolholder.
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030004.jpg)
This tightens in the rear of the spindle........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030017.jpg)
The r/h end is some 7" behind the front of the 5" chuck jaws.
Should be able to face up to 12" long components. Or shorter, using a probe screwed into the M6 tapped hole......
David D
-
I use the standard 80mm chuck, most of the time. But need to fit the 5", occasionally.
My biggest problem is fumbly fingers, and fiddly little M6 nuts.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030006.jpg)
So, I made meself a set from 12mm a/f mild steel, 1/2" long........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030007.jpg)
The chuck stud can now hold the nut, while I swap hands to spin it into engagement........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030009.jpg)
Another alternative, is to buy a pack of 10 stud connectors for £1.90.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030013.jpg)
Though for me, the larger a/f nuts are preferable. :thumbup:
David D
-
good idea David, but its not really a problem for us left handers :wave:
unless you suffer from........sausage fingers..... :thumbup:
...Mike....
-
Hi Mike.
Didn't realise you were cuddy wifted! :scratch:
Guess you'll not be needing this 3off, I've made for you...... (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/winks/b-wink.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-winks-smileys.html)
David D
-
Cuddy wifted?? never heard that one...corry fisted yes, but cuddy wifted is a new one on me...
You guys probably already all do this anyway but i usually put a slab of scrap wood underneath to stop the chuck trying to fall back off while i fiddle with them wee nuts.. i find it a great help especially with that bigger chuck..
keep the tips coming David, i'm learning all the time. :clap:
...Mike...
-
Mike.
Does cack handed make sense to you? :scratch:
I wouldn't be without me square of old floorboard. It's saved the slideways, several times....... :Doh:
David D
-
My version of bed protector
(http://i577.photobucket.com/albums/ss219/H0n3/Tooling/C3upgrade/BedProtect-01.jpg)
A couple of scrap pieces of 6 mm MDF wooden pegged and glued together to avoid scratchy materials.
Also noticed that you must have changed your chuck screws as yours have a non-threaded portion in the middle. Have you also Loctited them (with low strength Loctite) in place in the chuck to avoid them rotating as you fiddle with the nuts?
BR
/Peter
-
Hi Peter.
That's a fine protector pad. Much more decorative than mine! :clap:
The studs are the 28mm long ones, originally supplied with the machine. Tightened against the plain portion, using a couple of nuts locked together.
They have never come loose, unless I needed to swap them to another chuck........ :thumbup:
David D
-
David ,, Cack handed yes, I think that ones used up and down the country, but then it would'nt be the first time i was wrong :doh:
I think my studs are all like Peters ,, threaded all the way...
...Mike...
-
I've used the same square of 18mm chipboard for the last 15 years as a chuck board - soaked in oil and battered at the corners it sits patiently propped up against the headstock end of the lathe waiting for the next (quite infrequent) chuck change !
-
Hi Andrew.
Yes! Keep remembering Sod's law, and always store it where you can immediately find it. :thumbup:
For anyone who might be contemplating longer chuck nuts.
My machine's gap is 14mm wide. (Taper rollers)...... Shakedown trials have shown, 12mm long nuts are easier to maneuver.......
David D
-
Some while ago, I bought this tapping chuck from RDG, for around £17........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030040.jpg)
What a waste! The thing is rather large for a mini lathe. And the useless chuck won't grip the hard/ smooth tap shank. :bang:
Last Thursday's fleamarket yielded one these, for £4.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030043.jpg)
Removed the plug, indent ball and spring. Then loctited in, a length of M8 studding.
Turned down to 6mm, or so........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030044.jpg)
A piece of 45mm dia x 1" plastic. 8mm cross hole. Piece of 8mm o/d alloy tube, (from a wind chime)........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030046.jpg)
Hold gently, in tailstock chuck. Grip the handle for drive.
Not tried it out yet.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030049.jpg)
Any extra torque needed, a 6mm tommy bar will fit through the alloy tube.
That's summat else sorted! :thumbup:
David D
-
:clap: :clap:
very clever David,
I'd love to visit your local flea market :drool:
My local one is only good for fleas :(
...Mike...
-
Hi David
A cool idea and can be made in various sizes, can't beat hand feel when power tapping.
David
-
Mike, David. Thanks!
I've now used it for the first time. Very easily managed M6 in mild steel, tapping this next little job.
I have a 6" bench grinder. The wheels are too hard, don't cut. And when they do, there's grit over the very limited bench space, and car........
So, when I really need a grinding session, I set up in the middle of the back lawn. So there's no rusty patch left behind on me driveway.
I have been using a 50mm dia diamond disc in the lathe chuck, for the past few years for tool/ drill sharpening. It does the job admirably!
Occasionally though, a little more roughing power is needed..........
I bought a couple of sets of angle grinder disc nuts, and mounted them on stub arbours.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030062.jpg)
Didn't bother with the M14 thread, just a slide on fit, and an M6 screw and heavy washer.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030063.jpg)
Slips into the chuck........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030055.jpg)
Diamond rougher disc.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030054.jpg)
Not quite so rough, diamond disc........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030056.jpg)
Old faithful, finisher..........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030057.jpg)
Works for me! :thumbup:
David D
-
And, finally.
A 110mm disc of mdf, backing an al oxide polishing disc.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030070.jpg)
Good for woodworking. :thumbup:
Had around 180 hits, since I posted this last gonna do, and no comments....... Guess it's run it's course.
I'll see if I can't get the Maiwald project finished, and out of the way.
David D
-
Sorry David, I should have posted my thanks for a good idea. I am an avid follower of all your stuff; just don't say much. But I will try to do better in future.
Jim
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Hey Jim!
Don't take it personal..... There's only so many times we can say, well done. (Or otherwise). On one subject......
Thanks for your enthusiastic support. :thumbup:
Incidentally. I have recently spent some time on Google Images. Looking at pics of hit n miss engines.
Several times, turned up a pic of a familiar character, enjoying a pint! :beer:
That's a lovely engine you've made, Mate! (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/respect/respect-044.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net)
David D
-
It's not that we aren't interested, David - merely mesmerised by your ingenuity and productivity in making useful devices.
Well done!
Andy
-
Well done :clap: :clap:
-
I'm gonna have to get myself some more diamond wheels and have a go at this. Tried it once using a diamond disc for an angle grinder but it seems to have too much runout. 2nd attempt needed I think. I do have some nice Eze-lap diamond hones that do a lovely job of finishing up the edges though.
-
Thanks for your kind comments, Chaps! :beer:
Here's another one........
Fed up with dropping the gear cover allen screws, into the scrap/ recycle pile. :bang:
I made a pair of thumbscrews.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030078.jpg)
M5 studding, with washers, and a couple of turned down nuts.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030088.jpg)
The nuts fit inside the spacer tubes......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030089.jpg)
Even upside down. They don't fall out........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030090.jpg)
Tidy.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030087.jpg)
David D.
-
Tidy.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/After%202012/P1030087.jpg)
David D.
Very tidy David :thumbup: all those small mods will make life much easier :med:
Rob
-
over the last few days ive been trying to get some of the little 'gonna do's' done before the year was out.
Santa brought me a exrta handwheel so i got on with following your instructions for the leadscrew handwheel...
I made a bigger spacer but the temporary thinner one worked so well and turned so smoothly that i left it on..
I will get round to 'running in' the thicker one some day..but for now.... Thanks very much for all your help.. :thumbup:
and guidance, :wack: :hammer: :poke:... i know it must be difficult :bang: as we speak in different tongues :drool: :scratch:
....Mike... :wave:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g440/burky123/steadyeddie018.jpg)
-
Thanks Rob! :beer:
You're right! I'm just wondering where all the dropped M5 caphead screws have gone to, over the years....... :scratch:
Mike.
Pleased Santa brought what was needed. That set up is looking good! :thumbup:
Help, and guidance? Different tongues?
Well..... You know me. I like a challenge....... I'll say no more! :lol:
David D
-
Hope I can remember how to do this.
Some time back I figured out that the safest way to cut threads on small jobs, particularly thos that entail working up to a shoulder, is to use a handle attached to the mandrel and wind it by hand.
So here (at last) is my hand powered thread cutting attachment.
All I have to do now is get the pics from Photobucket.
Here is the device attached.
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93/klixon/DSCF0271_zps46e3bb7a.jpg)
And a couple of close ups. AS you can see, all it is is a rawl bolt and a bit od steel strip. The only part that needed any machining was the keyed part at the end of the bolt. I filed a groove in the end to the mandrel and filed the bolt end to (more or less) fit.
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93/klixon/DSCF0275_zpsebbde73c.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93/klixon/DSCF0276_zps56c10969.jpg)
Someone remind me how to get pics from PB to this page.
Dave, :(
Andy, Thanks. Worked as advertised.
Now I just have to reduce the size a bit.
-
It seems to have changed recently, but the way I do it is to click on the thumbnail pic to see it full size. Then look at the image links on the right; you may have to click "Image Links" to see them. There are four, and it's the one in the bottom box that starts [IMG] that you want. Click inside the box, which should go yellow very briefly and say "Copied". Then come back to the message you are composing here, and Ctrl V paste the link into your text.
Previously, I could hover over any of the thumbnails and a drop-down would appear showing the links. That was a bit easier, but doesn't seem to work any more.
Andy
-
I am going to
borrow shamelessly steal the thumbscrew idea!
I also have an idea about a hinge, but that may hinder placement later on, so jury still out.
-
A couple more pictures of the same late.
My hi-tech answer to cross slide DRO. It works surprisingly well.
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93/klixon/DSCF0272_zpse92434e4.jpg)
Can you see what the problem is here? And I don't mean all the clutter.
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq93/klixon/DSCF0273_zps1c70c4fa.jpg)
Dave.
-
I am going to borrow shamelessly steal the thumbscrew idea!
You're welcome Henning! :thumbup:
I post up my ideas. To give others, their ideas........ :)
Dave.
Wish I'd thought of a Rawlbolt, for my depth stop......... :Doh:
David.
-
Henning, I used hinges on my gear cover as shown here:
(http://andysmachines.weebly.com/uploads/1/7/5/0/1750739/5976255.jpg?381)
The letters refer to some accompanying text on my website, but I sawed up a cheap door hinge and attached the results at E and E, with the other parts attached to the lathe. The hinges are lift-off, and the pin in the lower one is longer than in the upper one, to help me to replace the cover if I have removed it completely. A toggle clip (like the ones on some toolboxes) at F fastens on to a lug on top of the headstock, to hold the cover closed.
:D It seems I can embed pictures direct from my website without the bother of PhotoBucket. :D
I didn't know that until I tried it.
Andy
-
I am going to borrow shamelessly steal the thumbscrew idea!
I also have an idea about a hinge, but that may hinder placement later on, so jury still out.
And another Norwegian will swipe the rawl bolt spindle crank idea from DavidA, I've been looking for a simple way of doing this. :clap:
-
Not had much time for workshop, or gonna do's, recently.
Someone on the mini lathe forum suggested toolpost drill chucks. Rather than overload the short reach tailstock quill.
Got me a couple of 10mm chucks.
Keyless, plus Peatol adaptor. Milled a flat instead of keyway.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030242_zpse08d0138.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030242_zpse08d0138.jpg.html)
Key type. Taper fit, on end of 12mm silver steel......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030245_zps80f8af3e.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030245_zps80f8af3e.jpg.html)
Used boring bar toolholder........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030239_zpsfbf858ba.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030239_zpsfbf858ba.jpg.html)
Clocked true to chuck centreline. Made toolpost positioning spacer, to maintain centre position.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030239_zpsfbf858ba.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030239_zpsfbf858ba.jpg.html)
Working position......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030238_zps964e5153.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030238_zps964e5153.jpg.html)
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030249_zps85ab0825.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030249_zps85ab0825.jpg.html)
Not had the time to try them out properly, yet......
David D
-
David
That should be a very handy piece of kit. No worries about having to stop and reset the tailstock. Thanks for sharing that David. :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
-
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
just emailed you a drawing :D :D
cheers
-
Thanks Don! :thumbup:
Gottit, Frazer...... Thanks! That's a handy weapon for small dia/ deep holes....... :thumbup:
I think SPiN made a peck drill, on here, some time ago. :scratch:
David D
-
A couple more gonna do's.
100mm vice. Removed the hard jaws.
Replaced with 20 x 20mm aluminium.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030298_zpse80535d1.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030298_zpse80535d1.jpg.html)
I now use steel jaw protectors. The few times heavy gripping force is needed.
As they wear, usually to the right hand end, I'll rotate them, fixed to moving. After that, mill away the marked areas, as necessary, and start again.
Should last for years....... :thumbup:
Lathe tool, height gauge.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030307_zps5e21cd2e.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030307_zps5e21cd2e.jpg.html)
Piece of 30mm dia. with crossbar.
Should have made one years ago! :palm:
David D
-
Hi David
I now use steel jaw protectors. The few times heavy gripping force is needed.
:med: smart plan .
I must get round to making a tool setting gauge :dremel:
Rob
-
Hi Rob.
Thanks for that! Seems strange, using jaw protectors...... To protect the jaws! :)
David D
-
Moving on...... Some, "Canyer just"s.
A member of my other forum loves his Mamod Flatbeds...... Old, toy steam engines....... Rare, and expensive.
They are fired by meths, and of course he loves to run them.
Unfortunately, he has to breath oxygen, for a lot of the time. Not a safe environment! :(
Could I make up some air adaptors, to fit in the water level hole? So, still allowing the use of the safety valve. :scratch:
First problem..... What thread? Replacement parts dealer enquiries, indicated 3/16BSW, and 3/16BSF.
Exchanges, via postal service, of known screws, finished up with 2BA, and 3/16BSW.
Partly made parts.........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030224_zpsab75b5d6.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030224_zpsab75b5d6.jpg.html)
Five off, despatched. The finished items, in situe.........
(http://imageshack.us/a/img51/5700/bobsadaptors.jpg)
He is now able to run all of them at once! Absolutely delighted! :D
And my favourite charity, gained a generous donation...... :thumbup:
David D
-
Next up. A well broken footpump......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030229_zpsb7f27e19.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030229_zpsb7f27e19.jpg.html)
Back in 1970, I rebuilt my Reliant van onto a new chassis. The 7/16" shackle bolt has finally come in useful! :bugeye:
Along with two 8mm capheads.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030230_zps3888a332.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030230_zps3888a332.jpg.html)
Solid repair. Oiled it's important little places.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030237_zps1d5901f1.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030237_zps1d5901f1.jpg.html)
Looks ok now. Another donation for the kiddies......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/Return%20Album/P1030233_zps1fb9a56c.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/Return%20Album/P1030233_zps1fb9a56c.jpg.html)
I think Bob might like that one! :thumbup:
David D
-
And then......
Another, more complicated adaptor was needed, for a little engine which didn't have a suitable level plug. Only the safety valve. But, the air feed still needed to come in horizontal, and still have s/valve installed.
Bundle of parts........
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030251_zps26810f96.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030251_zps26810f96.jpg.html)
Single feed, or through feed.......
(http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n95/Dayjo/P1030261_zps920a0b57.jpg) (http://s110.photobucket.com/user/Dayjo/media/P1030261_zps920a0b57.jpg.html)
Finished. Installed....
(http://imageshack.us/a/img145/9099/bobsadptr.jpg)
Even happier Customer! And, another generous donation for the Rainbows Children's Hospice. :D
David D