MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: spuddevans on May 09, 2009, 01:17:34 PM
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Well after being advised to try a simple wobbler engine as my 1st project I've decided on Elmers #25. The fun part has been converting the imperial to metric measurements :smart: :coffee: :scratch: :bang:
So I dug up a little slab of 6mm ali plate and hacked off a piece approx the size I needed. Then came the 1st issue to overcome, as the biggest milling cutter I have at present is 6mm I felt it was unwise to size the frame piece in one pass. So I took off my milling vice and decided to clamp the frame to the top of a 3-2-1 block that was squared up to the table, and use the side of my 4 flute mill to size.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532026429_HNhbr-XL.jpg)
Once sized up I then marked up for drilling,
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532026563_UUDD3-XL.jpg)
After boring all the holes I tapped the intake M4, I ment to tap it M3 but messed up the drilling :doh: so I had to enlarge to M4 as I dont have a M3.5 tap.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532026706_ZAZfy-XL.jpg)
So after drilling and tapping all the relevent holes the frame was done, or at least it was machined, I have to clean it up and polish it up a bit.
I then moved on to the cylinder. I had a piece of 19mm square brass bar. This presented a new challenge, I dont have a fly cutter or a milling cutter over 6mm. So how can I machine this 19mm square bar to 17mm x 15mm, and get a reasonable finish?
Up steps the 4 jaw chuck.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532026837_gZniE-XL.jpg)
I remember reading somewhere about how to turn a cube using a lathe, and I just stole borrowed the idea, and what do you know, it worked!! :clap: :clap:
So I now have the cylinder blank sized and ready to bore, and that's as far as I got.
However, in the process of sizing on the lathe I found out that getting a nice finish relies on smooth advancement of the cross-slide. ( yea, I know that you all know this, but it was new to me ) I found a bit of a cheats way of taking the monotony out of winding it back and forth, and getting a better finish. I just attached my cordless drill to the capscrew holding the handle on the cross-slide and just ran it on a low speed. Got a far better finish than I could've got otherwise. You just have to be careful to keep the drill in line as best as poss.
Anyway, that's the 1st part of my little adventure into building a wobbler, stay tuned for irregular updates :lol:
Tim
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Oops, forgot to post a pic of the completed (but desperately needing cleaning up) frame and the prepared cylinder blank. :doh:
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532071485_cNkos-XL.jpg)
Tim
ps, if you want to see larger versions of the pics click www.velvet-art.co.uk/elmers (http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/elmers)
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Well done Tim
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Great use of the old 1*2*3 blocks and like the drill power feed.
I can tell already this engine will be a runner.
Stew
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Thanks Stew, I have to say that I'm barely started on this and I am completely hooked :beer:
I can tell already this engine will be a runner.
(Strokes white cat in a very Bond-bad-guy-esque style) "It will run, oh yes, it will run". Even if I have to make and then re-make every single part several times, I'm determined to make it run.
The plans say it should run on 5-10psi, so I should be ok as my compressor will put out 115 psi :bugeye: "Oh yes, it wiill run!!"
Tim
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Tim,
I thought you were an absolute beginner.
Methinks you are telling a few porkies. Some of the techniques and clamping procedures you used are usually the sign of someone with some experience behind them.
Very nicely done, using techniques on a lathe, to obtain what really should have been done on a mill for ease of making.
Bogs
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The plans say it should run on 5-10psi, so I should be ok as my compressor will put out 115 psi :bugeye: "Oh yes, it wiill run!!"
Tim
At 115 psi it'll take off :lol:
Stew
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Tim,
I thought you were an absolute beginner.
Methinks you are telling a few porkies. Some of the techniques and clamping procedures you used are usually the sign of someone with some experience behind them.
I'm not far off being a total newbie, my sum total metalworking experience is made up of making a very crude version of a ball turner, and then making this,
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532108965_n3hdT-XL.jpg)
for my better half's mobility scooter to give better illumination. ( i figured on some browney points for doing my first project for my better half :med: )That took me about 2-3 months and was mostly lathe-work and just finished it this week.
As to the clamping methods and any other techniques I use, I must confess to stealing borrowing them from others such as yourself who do so many wonderful writeups. I have been avidly studying this and the other forum and every other machining website for at least 12 months before I got a workshop set up. I like to read how others do things and try to emulate them.
My only other experience is with woodturning, I've been turning wood for about 7-8 years, but as I've found out, wood is a completely different kettle of fish.
Tim
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In that case I feel you are going to become a very competent metal basher cos that's some good work you are turning out there :thumbup:
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Nice start Tim :thumbup:
So how do you turn a kettle of fish with out losing the water and the fish? :lol:
Wood turning... Now there's a missing section in the postings..... When you're ready :whip: :ddb:
There is a little secwet about some of those engines.... Look at many of the plans and you will see that some of them share parts, frames, cylinders etc.... Good thing to bear in mind if you think about making some as gifts etc?
My #16 uses the same frame and cylinder ... Just the holes differ :thumbup:
Those lights look interesting.... A couple of pictures in the relevant section of the forum "Gallery" perhaps?
As to the clamping methods and any other techniques I use, I must confess to stealing borrowing them from others such as yourself who do so many wonderful writeups. I have been avidly studying this and the other forum and every other machining website for at least 12 months before I got a workshop set up. I like to read how others do things and try to emulate them.
That's why most of us are here Tim :thumbup: I've picked up loads of info over the last year.... Forums that are nice to be a part of really help you get things made :nrocks:
Looking forward to the running vid' :thumbup: (I like the Bond ref' too :lol: )
Ralph.
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So how do you turn a kettle of fish with out losing the water and the fish?
The problem is not the turning, once the kettle's turning centrifugal force holds the fish in. :lol: The challenge comes in trying to get it started. You have to turn your lathe 90degrees to be in the upright postion, start it and then carefully return it to the normal position to turn. :zap:
I'll have to take a few more pics of the lights, I didn't take any "in progress" pics, but I'll take some "after progress" pics and make a post in the right section.
Tim
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Tim,
Have to agree with Bogs. I won't have believed you were a total newbie at metalworking. :scratch:
I like the idea of using the 1-2-3 blocks as an angle plate.
Once you get her runin' at 115pis for a few hours of run in you'll be able to get down to 5-10psi. :lol:
Nice work with what you got. Keep it up and you'll have your first running engine in no time. :thumbup:
Bernd
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Have to agree with Bogs. I won't have believed you were a total newbie at metalworking. :scratch:
Well I'll take that as a compliment, I guess. :scratch: I really do think of myself as a newbie.
This was the 1st time of machining brass, I kinda felt the need to hold my breath while turning it as it seems to produce a lot of fine dust/shavings, it looks like there's been a shower of gold on my little lathe :)
I like the idea of using the 1-2-3 blocks as an angle plate.
I was limited by my lack of equipment for holding the frame reliably in any other way, so the 1-2-3 block seemed to be the only choice for me, once I got one squared up to the table and clamped I was able to use the other one to make sure the workpiece was also square by using it standing up and just holding it with my fingers to the clamped block and at the same time ( and amazingly with the same fingers ) holding the workpiece to the upright 1-2-3 block. It probably was not square to the 0.001mm, but I figured it was square enough for me.
Tim
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Tim,
once I got one squared up to the table
When you have a bit of spare time, turn yourself up a couple of short rods that are a very good fit in the t-slots in the mill. Then all you have to do is put the bars sticking up in the slots, push whatever you want to square up against them, and clamp up, job done in seconds. They are the first bits of machine tooling you need to make when you get your mill.
I actually made mine square, so that they can sit very low in the slots for thin work, or stood up for taller jobs, I suppose you could just angle the round ones in the slot.
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/bogstandard_photos/backstop04.jpg)
John
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When you have a bit of spare time, turn yourself up a couple of short rods that are a very good fit in the t-slots in the mill. Then all you have to do is put the bars sticking up in the slots, push whatever you want to square up against them, and clamp up, job done in seconds. They are the first bits of machine tooling you need to make when you get your mill.
Ahh!!! ( lightbulb goes on above head ) That is a great idea. What a timesaver, saves doing like me and trying to juggle an engineers square, 3-2-1 block, clamps and little adjustable-height-stand-off-thingys and a spanner to tighten the whole contraption up. :bang:
Thanks for that tip Bogs, I'll turn a couple up asap.
Tim
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Tim,
Very nice. I will second everyone's statement... you sure you are a newbie??
The 1st thing I ever milled was a part to fix SWMBO's sewing machine. Good idea on doing something for her first. That right there should justify the cost of your 'toys'.
Eric
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Very nice. I will second everyone's statement... you sure you are a newbie??
Well, the last time I checked I was a newbie :D and my progress report may just bare this out.
This afternoon I spent a total of 3 hours to mark out and bore just 1 hole :bang: :bang: :bang:
The marking out went easy enough, and I even managed to center punch on the "x" :headbang: I even got it mounted in the 4 jaw and centered up within a gnats whisker.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532983827_a3wH9-XL.jpg)
The center drilling went well, and even the drilling with progressively larger drills until the bore was 3/8" ( this time I had an imperial drill set, so no metric convertion needed )
It was at this point I realised that the 9.5mm and 10mm reamers I thought I had as a part of a set were not there, the set only went up to 8mm and all are hand reamers, not machine reamers, and so even if the set went up to the needed size they would be useless as the bore is blind and only just over 1" deep.
So this is where the newbie-ness gets a little more obvious, instead of thinking that I could get a correctly sized and type (machine) reamer in a few days time, this numpty decided to spend 2.5 hrs trying to make one.
Sense has finally prevailed after making the bore look rather rougher than when I had just drilled it, and so I called it a day before I totally wrecked the cylinder blank.
So a total of 3hrs to bore one hole, and even that's gonna need reaming out. :zap:
This is what it looks like,
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/532983931_nkGbA-XL.jpg)
So, that's as far as I've got.
Tim
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Tim,
Well you tried something and it didn't work. That's fine at least you tried.
Here's what I would have done and actually had to do on one of the two I had built. I bored it out with a boring tool. It didn't quite come to size so I made the piston to fit. The bore doesn't have to be the exact size to work, you make the piston to fit the bore. If you feel you messed it up you could try and put it back in the chuck, true it up and bore it out with a boring bar tool.
Bernd
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The bore doesn't have to be the exact size to work, you make the piston to fit the bore. If you feel you messed it up you could try and put it back in the chuck, true it up and bore it out with a boring bar tool.
Thanks Bernd,
I would've bored it with a boring bar but both my boring bar tools are too big :doh: I need to get a smaller boring bar.
Fortunately there seems to be enough meat left on the blank to bore it out a bit more.
Oh well, one to chalk up to experience ::)
Tim
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In all honesty Tim, I have all the reamers, but I still prefer to bore cylinders. They turn out much more parallel and round. Plus unless you have a floating tailstock holder, you are almost guaranteed to get an oversized hole with a machine reamer.
Never say you haven't got a boring bar the right size if you have an old drill that is smaller than the hole you are boring. You can just grind a flat face across the end, mount it into your toolpost with one of the ground flutes sitting level, then put a couple of degrees on your toolpost so that the ground tip hits the wall of the bore before the rest of the drill, and away you go.
This is a get you out of the s**t method, not a permanent replacement for a boring bar.
You can try grinding a bit of front rake if you feel up to it. It is really a bit of trial and error, but once you get the hang of it, you will never get stuck again
With regards to making mistakes, it is all in the learning process, they get fewer the more you learn, that is of course, unless you can walk on water.
Bogs
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Thanks Bogs, that will help me out a big load. I've just looked at the prices of machine reamers :bugeye: :bugeye:
I was thinking that using a reamer would give me a good parallel bore, but if boring the "bore" :lol: results in a better "bore" I'll stick with that method.
Do you know where I could get a reasonably priced boring bar from that would be usable in say 8mm and upward holes? I have one that works from 12mm and up, but I now can see the need to get something smaller.
On the subject of making mistakes, I truely believe that the man who hasn't made any mistakes hasn't made anything.
Thanks again for your help with this, truely :mmr:
Tim
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Tim
We all have bad days if you've read my loco build thread you'll see I scraped off a cylinder casting that cost £80 when boring it, a new one cost me another £50:- ouch :bang:
Setting it up again and taking a light cut with a boring tool as John suggested will sort you out, it,s easyer to do the bore first and not worry too much about the size then make the cylinder to fit, most people do it that way. One little tip when boring:- boring tools have a tendancy to spring it will cut as you wind it back if you don't take the cut off, zero the dial and run the finishing cut through a couple of times until all the spring gone out of the bar.
Don't throw away any bits of broken tool steel:- centre drills, drill, mills cutters etc: as you can always grind them up for other uses.
Have fun
Stew
PS Just read your question on boring bars, if you have any HSS square steel you can grind this up into a boring bar, if it would help I'll post some pics tomorrow night of some bars I've made.
Cheers
Stew
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PS Just read your question on boring bars, if you have any HSS square steel you can grind this up into a boring bar, if it would help I'll post some pics tomorrow night of some bars I've made.
Thanks Stew, I'd love to see those pics. I do have a couple of spare HSS square blanks, but I think they're too large for the bore. ( I think the smallest HSS is 3/8 square, and I dont fancy grinding down the whole length to make it fit. ) I'll half to get some 1/4" Hss blanks.
Tim
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Tim,
As Stew says, You can grind up boring bars out of tool steel, it all depends how good you are on the offhand grinder.
For commercial ones, go down the page on here a bit and you will find some.
http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Lathe-Tools
Bear in mind, the smaller they go, the shorter they are, due to the forces acting on them, small ones are very easy to break. The smallest I have made using the drill method was 1mm, and it did the job, just.
You can also use the carbide tipped ones they sell in sets for mounting in boring heads. In fact if you look at the heads on those, they should be roughly the same shape as I am showing here.
Proper boring bars are in fact very easy to make yourself. But you do need to be fairly confident on the offhand grinder.
As shown on the C-o-C, turn up the shape required from silver steel. Try to keep the turned down bit as large as possible, this will reduce the danger of breakage and keep vibrations down.
Then grind the end bit to the shapes shown
When you are happy with the cutting head shape, heat up the cutting head only to cherry red, and hold it at that for a minute or so, then plunge it into water, but don't swizzle it about, that should keep stresses to a minimum and prevent fracture. I like to leave the centre turned down section unhardened and use its natural toughness to prevent breakage. Also, because I have only hardened the head, I don't temper it.
Touch up with a stone the front and side cutting faces.
Mount the cutting tip exactly on centreline, and remember, you should NOT be removing large wedges of metal with a small boring tool, drill out the hole to about 1/2mm under, and use the bar to bring the hole up to the right size.
Once you get used to it, you can easily knock one up in 15 to 20 mins.
Bogs
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Nice instructions on the boring bar John. I've got 1 just like that , I assume my grandfather must have made it at some point as the back end of it is relatively soft, it came with a load of bits and bobs I inherited from him. I could do with a few in various sizes.
Nick
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You can also use the carbide tipped ones they sell in sets for mounting in boring heads. In fact if you look at the heads on those, they should be roughly the same shape as I am showing here.
:doh: :doh: :doh: :doh:
You wouldn't believe how much of a numpty I feel. When I read your post Bogs it hit me like a ton of bricks, "I have a boring bar set for my mill" :bang: ( looks around for the hole in the ground to appear ) But I will file your C-o-C for future reference thankyou very much :thumbup:
Anyway, when I finally got over my numptyness this is what I got done today. I mounted the cylinder blank into the 4jaw, centered it and then took a couple of light skimming cuts and then about 4 repeated cuts to eliminate any springing of the boring bar.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892683_GSwDJ-XL.jpg)
I then remounted the cylinder the other way and bored out the pivot pin socket being careful not to break through into the piston bore.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892808_j2dJM-XL.jpg)
Onto making the pivot pin. I didn't have any small diameter brass bar and I didnt fancy wasting some 3/4" square bar. I thought I'd try and be clever and use a little piece of 19mm x 3.5mm flat stock and turn it down. So I cut some off and chucked it in the 4 jaw.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892871_2Mok6-XL.jpg)
Then to turn down the other end I wanted to chuck it in a ER32 collet to not leave markings on the pin, but I dont yet have a ER32 chuck for my lathe, but I do have a MT3 ER32 chuck for the mill, and the headstock on the lathe is also MT3. Not having a long enough drawbar I brought up the tailstock to ensure that I wasn't chased around the workshop.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892960_y8Bzs-XL.jpg)
Once the pivot pin was turned down to the right size to be tapped M3, I then cut the M3 thread. You probably noticed that the tailstock is removed for this, I ran the lathe at the lowest speed ( I thread at the lowest speed so I dont run into the chuck ) and as I found out when trying to remove the ER32 chuck it was well stuck in there.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892480_Wqzbd-XL.jpg)
Once that was done, I removed the pin and then loctited it into the cylinder. (it was a pretty good press fit)
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/533892543_z8PKw-XL.jpg)
And that's as far as I got today. Thanks to Bog's for reminding me of what I actually had sitting in the corner of the workshop.
Tim
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Forget the numptyness, as long as you got the job done, that is all that matters.
Coming along well there, and it looks like you are enjoying yourself to boot.
Bogs
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You are no longer allowed to call yourself a newbie, ok..... :thumbup:
Give you six months and you'll be showing everyone how to do the hard bits :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
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it looks like you are enjoying yourself to boot.
You got that right, I'm loving it. This is soo addictive. ( surely this must be illegal, it has to be :lol: ) I think I've been struck down with :proj:
Does anyone know of a treatment? ( I have heard that 3-in-1 oil applied twice daily behind the left ear does help )
You are no longer allowed to call yourself a newbie, ok..... :thumbup:
Give you six months and you'll be showing everyone how to do the hard bits :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Thanks for that Darren, I cant imagine that I'll be showing anyone how to do the hard bits, I can see myself showing folks how to do the simple things... in the most complicated, hardest, most frustrating way :lol:
Tim
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Hi Tim well done you got the job well sorted.
:clap: :clap: :clap:
As promised pics of my boring bars they may help with future jobs.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Boring%20bars/100_1698.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Boring%20bars/100_1699.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Boring%20bars/100_1706.jpg)
Stew
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As promised pics of my boring bars they may help with future jobs.
Thanks Stew, seeing those makes it a bit easier to know what I can crudely hack out for future uses :thumbup:
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Boring%20bars/100_1699.jpg)
The set of boring bars in the wooden block above are identical to the set that was lurking in the corner of my workbench, totally forgotten about until Bogs reminded me I could use such on the lathe. :doh:
Tim
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Tim,
I think you've been telling us porkies. No newbie can single point a small thread like that and get away with it the first time around. :lol:
I think your either not a newbie or you've got natrual talent. I think the later may be it.
Looks like you got a good finish with that boring bar. Keep it up and you'll be running with the best of them. :clap:
Bernd
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Tim,
I think you've been telling us porkies. No newbie can single point a small thread like that and get away with it the first time around. :lol:
Well I did show you just one pic of my first project, ( I gotta take some more pics of them ) the 6 Led lights? They all are made up of a 2 piece construction that are threaded together. That is where I learnt a lot about single point threading, also where I made quite a few mistakes too. ( there's a few verry loose threads on a couple )
But the threading on this was a lot easier as I was just copying a M3 screw and I had a M3 nut on hand to be able to stop and check if I was close. I just started out by measuring the diameter of the M3 scerw threaded portion, turning the brass pin down to match, changed to the threading bit, engaged the half-nuts and threaded it 0.05mm at a pass until the nut would screw on to the brass pivot pin.
It's a bit easier when you have something to copy.
Tim
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I managed to sneak a couple more hours in the
playroom workshop this afternoon.
I started off by off a little lump of brass for the piston and chucking in the 4jaw, turned down half to diameter.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/534881606_oyzst-XL.jpg)
I then chucked it the other way round in the ER32 collet but made the error of not tightening it enough and it came loose just as I was parting it off to length :bang: :bang:
So I added to my collection of spare "smaller than I wanted" pieces and hacked off another lump of brass, chucked it and turned it down as before. This time I also drilled and tapped M3
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/534877695_uJ9gp-XL.jpg)
I find this to be a good method of tapping on the lathe, to explain; The drill chuck is not jammed in the MT of the tailstock, it has some grip but is free to turn with light pressure. Also the tailstock is also free to move on the ways, and the tap in the chuck is also loose enough to turn if the tap jams in the work. I then run the lathe at a very low speed.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/534877850_9w6EF-XL.jpg)
So that's all I got done today, just 2 pistons made, 1 junked and one that fits ok. If I put a M3 screw in the piston and slide it into the cylinder and turn it upside down the piston gently slides down and stops at the entrance of the cylinder, with out the screw it just falls out. I dont know if it's too loose, if I pull the piston out rapidly I get a satisfying "pop".
How do you tell if the piston is too loose or not?
Things I've learnt today;
I learnt that my ER32 chuck has a runout of 0.02mm, is that bad?
Always start off with a piece of metal that is longer than you need as it makes life easier.
I also tried making a con-rod out of 303 stainless, it didnt go quite as planned but I learnt that it really helps to use sharp carbide tooling and that it doesn't like my Hss threading tool.(prob was a bit dull, I must resharpen it) I'll try again the next time with some brass as per the plans.
Also learnt to think a few steps ahead to see what I can do while workpiece is still chucked and true before taking the piece out and then spending 15mins truing it up with the trusty dial indicator.
And finally, always remember to check that whatever chucking device is used is properly tightened up.
Tim
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Excellent work again there Tim, :thumbup:
I like to turn SS fast, very fast and with fast feed, but only with tungsten tipped cutters.
If you are using HSS tooling then keep the speed down low or you'll just burn the tip opp the cutting tool.
Nice clear pictures btw, :nrocks:
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... I dont know if it's too loose, if I pull the piston out rapidly I get a satisfying "pop".
How do you tell if the piston is too loose or not?
[/quote]
That sounds good to me. If it was too loose, you wouldn't get the "pop"
Eric
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Thanks Darren, I was threading, or should I say, trying to thread at a very slow speed, but I think combined with the slightly blunt Hss toolbit was the fact the 303 was only 2.9mm diameter and was deflecting away and above the cutter, and that was with only 8mm of the 303 protruding from the chuck.
I bring my Dslr out to the workshop and hide it under some clean rags and bring it out when I remember. My other hobby is photography so it's nice to combine both hobbies.
Thanks Eric, I was wondering whether when I finished the build and 1st applied the air I would only get a hissssss :bugeye: and no movement. Hopefully that won't happen.
Tim
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I learnt that my ER32 chuck has a runout of 0.02mm, is that bad?
If my maths is correct :scratch: that's about three quarters of a thou ................. so not bad at all methinks :thumbup:
Engine looks to be coming along fine btw :clap:
CC
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Tim
Ha the good old pop test, thats a good sign :thumbup: I'm sure it will be fine.
The bad guy with these little engines is Mr Friction, you can have things too tight.
Nice work
Stew
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Ok Tim, we got the satisfying "pop" so that means a pretty darn good fit. :thumbup:
Now, I went back and looked at your cylinder with the pivot in it. Are you going to forget to drill the entery hole for the air into the cylinder? :poke: Just wondering. :)
Nice job so far by the way. It took me several tries to get the piston right to make a good sounding "POP".
Bernd
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Nice looking parts collection you got going there Tim :thumbup:
As Darren said "nice clear pictures" I know you said about the DSLR, But have you got very good lighting in there too? They are very bright and unshadowed!
I like this thread..... Reminds me a bit of my first engine thread way back when (all of a year ago !! :)) it feels good to make these little things and have them run for the first time...... You wait, it's a great feeling :D
Ralph.
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Coming along nicely!!
I cuss a lot and shake my head complaining about Brass VS Stainless steel when doing things on my stuff. The majority of the material I have is either Stainless or Tool Steel. Either of which is a bear if you dont do things right. This I know because if you look back through my posts you see me asking questions like.. Why doesnt this cut smoothly, or why is this so tough?
I can actually work with stainless fairly ok now.. Not good.. but OK. But as you mentioned.. a sharp tool is the secret.
Another secret I discovered... I use the generic re-grindable Carbide tipped tools for aluminum and brass and normal steels.
I invested in a set of indexable carbite tool bits from ebay for the lathe when turning stainless, and or tool steel. Makes a HUGE difference. The stuff cuts like butter with a good sharp indexed tool. Granted... if you are spinning a smaller diameter piece of metal it can be difficult. I just take a lot smaller cut to reduce deflection, and increase accuracy of my cuts. Takes longer but less cleanup after the fact.
I seriously have a hankering to make a engine.
(Must finish tool holders.. all 18 of them)
-
Now, I went back and looked at your cylinder with the pivot in it. Are you going to forget to drill the entery hole for the air into the cylinder? :poke: Just wondering. :)
Well spotted!! Actually I deliberately have not drilled it yet. I figure on assembling the whole thing together, positioning the crank so that the cylinder is in the right position for the exhaust hole in the frame to line up with where the inlet hole is meant to be on the cylinder, and then spotting through to accurately mark up the postion. Does that make any sense outside of my head?
As Darren said "nice clear pictures" I know you said about the DSLR, But have you got very good lighting in there too? They are very bright and unshadowed!
Thanks Ralph, Yea I have a flash(canon 580) mounted on my camera(canon 400d), but rather that aiming the flash dead ahead I aim it straight at the (grubby)white ceiling to bounce the flash. It provides a nice even, mostly shadowless light. My regular workshop lighting is 2 flurescents, 1 5-foot and 1 4-foot.
Another secret I discovered... I use the generic re-grindable Carbide tipped tools for aluminum and brass and normal steels.
I invested in a set of indexable carbite tool bits from ebay for the lathe when turning stainless, and or tool steel. Makes a HUGE difference. The stuff cuts like butter with a good sharp indexed tool. Granted... if you are spinning a smaller diameter piece of metal it can be difficult. I just take a lot smaller cut to reduce deflection, and increase accuracy of my cuts. Takes longer but less cleanup after the fact.
I have a couple of indexable carbide tools and found like you said that it cuts better on stainless, my trouble was with single point threading such a small diameter. I think I'll resharpen my Hss threading tool, take lighter cuts, and if needed use a steady rest to try and stop the workpiece riding up onto the tool. Either that or try using a M3 die (which will hopefully arrive in the post today :thumbup:)
Tim
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That's one expensive flash unit you are using..... :bugeye:
No wonder you keep it all under a rag till needed.
I use a 350D and have to say I'm very happy with it, but I'll stick to the inbuilt flash for now cos I'm a skinflint.... :ddb:
-
Now, I went back and looked at your cylinder with the pivot in it. Are you going to forget to drill the entery hole for the air into the cylinder? :poke: Just wondering. :)
Well spotted!! Actually I deliberately have not drilled it yet. I figure on assembling the whole gether, positioning the crank so that the cylinder is in the right position for the exhaust hole in the frame to line up with where the inlet hole is meant to be on the cylinder, and then spotting through to accurately mark up the postion. Does that make any sense outside of my head?
Tim
Never thought of doing it that way. Sure would put the hole in a more precise location.
See even a newbie can teach a guy that built two of these new tricks. :headbang:
Bernd
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Today's update.
I started out by sharpening my threading tool and spending 15-20 mins trying to single point 3mm 303 stainless for the con-rod. Deciding that beating my head against that particular spike was not fruitful :bang:, I moved on to machining a new con-rod out of brass. This was much easier.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/535656885_gfpyJ-XL.jpg)
Then I extended a bit more out of the chuck and turned that down.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/535657005_jCQ5m-XL.jpg)
Once turned to size it was over onto the mill, I mounted it into the spin indexer thingy, supported the free end with a 3-2-1 block and a little stepped thingy and drilled out the hole for the crank, 2.4mm if I recall correctly.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/535657231_rw56B-XL.jpg)
After a little cleaning up and filing the edges round I have a piston with con-rod :headbang:
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/535657444_LPyKs-XL.jpg)
After that I had a little time so I made a start on the crankshaft assembly, specifically on the crank disc which I made out of some unidentified steel, turned some down to 17.5mm, hacksawed it off and remounted it in the ER32 chuck, faced it off and then drilled it 4mm.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/535654672_MEY49-XL.jpg)
So next will be the offset hole, and then the actual shafts.
Thats all for now, gotta run out to the post office to pick up some goodies.
Tim
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Nice use of the various "thingie's" :thumbup: ............. perhaps we should have an appropriate ..... thingy ....... smiley
From the write up's it seems you are enjoying this engineering lark more and more as each day goes by .......... nice write up and nice work Tim.
I started out by sharpening my threading tool and spending 15-20 mins trying to single point 3mm 303 stainless for the con-rod. Deciding that beating my head against that particular spike was not fruitful :bang:
I've gotta say, after a brief venture into the dark art of "Single Point Threading" .......... for the few sizes I tend to use I find it much quicker and easier to use a tailstock die holder :bugeye:
However, I wait with trepidation to learn the error of my ways :scratch:
Dave ............. aka .......... CC
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I can smell a runner from here.
You and your self appointed newbie status has surely taken a beating this time, you are doing most of this stuff like an old hand.
Just get your materials together and knock one of mine out.
Bogs
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Just get your materials together and knock one of mine out.
I have already got about half the materials :thumbup: I will have a couple of inbetween projects to do though, I need to make a belt drive for my mill, and then a flycutter, and a few more little helpful bits.
But I'm getting ahead of myself, gotta finish this one off first. :dremel:
From the write up's it seems you are enjoying this engineering lark more and more as each day goes by .......... nice write up and nice work Tim.
I am, I really am :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks:
I've gotta say, after a brief venture into the dark art of "Single Point Threading" .......... for the few sizes I tend to use I find it much quicker and easier to use a tailstock die holder :bugeye:
Actually I find single point threading quite enjoyable, and surprisingly not that difficult (except on stainless which is a real pig). I havent got any dies yet, got some coming in the post, and then I've got to make a tailstock die-holder.
If you think single point threading is difficult, in woodturning you do "thread chasing", this is done by hand and, on my lathe, the slowest speed was 200 rpm and so trying to shift the threading tool by hand and in sync is unbelievably hard. Then try doing this repeatedly about 6-8 times to completely form the thread, every time without messing up the existing threads, and at the end of it all you find that the newly formed threaded item is just slightly too small and you have to start over :bang: :bang:
Threading on an metalworking lathe is made so much easier with the leadscrew.
Keep trying, it's not that hard. (it cant be, I can do it :lol: )
Tim
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I've done a little single point threading, it's just I find it somewhat trial and error to get the depth correct, and with a metric lathe a threading dial indicator doesn't really work, so a bit like Bogsie's view of the independent 4 jaw chuck, life is too short .................. just my 2c worth mind .......... doesn't make it right (http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b28/CrewCab53/Smileys/wink.gif)
At the end of the day, if we enjoy what we achieve and swap a few ideas about then that's why we're all here.
CC
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I have already got about half the materials :thumbup: I will have a couple of inbetween projects to do though, I need to make a belt drive for my mill, and then a flycutter, and a few more little helpful bits.
You've caught it, you've caught it, you've caught it
:proj: :proj: :proj:
You are doing well picking up, or working out the basics :clap: :clap: :clap:
A bogstandard engine is really on the cards.
Stew
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Ok, managed to get a couple of hours in the workshop today. Started off by setting up and drilling the offset hole for the crank pin.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537127676_5nM7D-XL.jpg)
The more observant of you will have noticed that the Crank-disc is not properly seated on the 3-2-1 block and so did not drill square :doh:. I didnt notice that until I'd finished today and as I'll explain in a bit I may have to re-bore the pin-hole square.
Anyway, after that I found a use for the screwed-up piston, I turned it down to make the crankshaft bush shown below in the middle of the other hacked out bits.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537128082_pviDM-L.jpg)
I then chucked up a length of 6mm 303 stainless to turn down for the crankshaft, I turned down to 5mm for the main shaft and a short section 4mm to fit the crank-disc.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537127100_kz2zX-XL.jpg)
Then I did something similar for the Crank-pin, except I started with some 4mm stainless, turned it down to 2.4mm for the press fit into the crankdisc and 2.3mm for the easyfit into the conrod.
I also pressed the crankshaft bush into the frame, after I cleaned up the frame,
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537127423_TRGvj-L.jpg)
then did a little assembly just for fun.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537127212_HPBtv-L.jpg)
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537127527_uEJfx-XL.jpg)
Once I did the assembly and tried to turn over the crank I found that it was sticking at TDC and BDC :bang: After a little wondering I checked the squareness of the crank-pin ( it's amazing how hard it is to use a 4" engineers square on a part that's only 17mm wide and the pin's only 3.5mm high !!)
I then realised that the crank-pin is not square and is what is binding up twice per revolution. I've not totally decided what to do about this. I could pull the pin out and re-bore the hole wider and square and then make a new pin to fit. Or to just try and bend the pin to square. I'm leaning towards just pulling the pin and reboring and then make a new pin.
That's all for today, It's getting exciting now, I can nearly smell the finish line ( I like mixing metaphors ) :lol:
Tim
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Just get a bit of say 1/4" rod about 3" long. Face the end and drill a hole in the end the same size as the crankpin.
Use that to tweak the pin straight. When the faced off bit of rod is sitting perfectly flush on the crankdisk, you should be square.
Bogs
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Just get a bit of say 1/4" rod about 3" long. Face the end and drill a hole in the end the same size as the crankpin.
Use that to tweak the pin straight. When the faced off bit of rod is sitting perfectly flush on the crankdisk, you should be square.
Bogs
What a great tip :thumbup: :clap: :thumbup: :clap: I'll try that tomorrow.
Thanks Bogs :thumbup:
Tim
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Yesterday I managed to make a start on the flywheel, and got one side shaped (to a fashion :scratch:), and today I bored and reamed the 5mm hole for the crankshaft, then remounted to machine the other side, centred it using the 5mm hole as a reference and then shaped the 2nd side. ( I was so excited about getting so close to completion I forgot to take any pics of these parts :) )
I then turned a some 6mm brass rod to a close fit for the flywheel, and threaded the end M5, and mounted the flywheel to it to clean up the rim and make sure (hopefully) that I dont have a wobbly flywheel.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845887_5Hf9t-XL.jpg)
After that I drilled and tapped the flywheel for the setscrew
I then turned to the air-intake-to-aquarium-type-tubing-adaptor-thingy. I used the same 6mm brass rod and turned some down to 4mm and then threaded it M4 and then bored it through with a 2.2mm bit
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845622_xtVBx-XL.jpg)
Then after some jiggery-pokey with a parting tool,
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845107_uYHek-XL.jpg)
it was over to the spin-indexer to make a nut-shaped bit.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845779_gKaxz-XL.jpg)
At this point I did a quick mock-up of all the parts and positioned the crank for transferring the hole position from the exhaust of the frame to the cylinder. Then after removing the indexer from the mill and clamping down the vice, I drilled the cylinder with a 1.6mm bit.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537844873_vPWtY-XL.jpg)
I then found a spring that was about the right size and assembled all the bits together, and here's the result.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845317_t3nEh-XL.jpg)
( notice the immaculate chatter on the flywheel )
The other side
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537845406_6L3xf-XL.jpg)
Imagine my joy, now to get it running. But how? I have a little air compressor, but no way to attach the length of 3mm (id) tubing to it :bang:
So I decided to build an adaptor. I just copied the connector off one of my air-nailer, and bored a 4mm hole up the centre.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/537844971_P2Ebg-XL.jpg)
I then made another air-intake-to-aquarium-type-tubing-adaptor-thingy as above, except I haven't milled the nut-shaped-bit on it yet as I had to come in to make me grub, and that's all I got done.
So that's all I've got for you today, hopefully I'll get it running in the next couple of days and then I can post up a video for you all to laugh look at :lol:
Tim
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Can we have a count down to lift off 5-4-3-2-purrrrrrrrrrrrr :nrocks:
Good luck
Stew
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Lovely, it's gonna run :thumbup:
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That's definitely a runner, I'd put my house on it! :beer: :ddb:
I think I might have to get an er collet chuck, then I could use my collets that I have for the milling machine. Will be much more accurate than the 3 jaw and won't mark the workpiece.
Nick
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Tim,
Very nice on the detail. I really liked that hose barb you made. :thumbup:
Can't wait for the video :nrocks:
Bernd
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A superb piece of work Tim with a great write up and the quality of those photographs is simply outstanding. There's no doubt with your attention to detail you have a smooth runner on your hands - like everyone else I am looking forward to seeing the video.
JohnS
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Tim,
This is reminding me of the fun I had making my little "Elmer" :dremel: .
It's looking good :ddb:
Your gonna love it when this runs :thumbup: (should only need 5-20Psi )
Looking forward to the running :)
Ralph.
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Tim,
Don`t ask where I`ve been till now......... ::)
I`ve only just read this posting, from end to end! :hammer:
What a crackin` adventure! :thumbup:
Very well told, very well shown.... Blummin well done! :clap: :clap:
David D
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Nice!
I love your use of "don't have the part so I will just make it instead"! The engine is turning out nicely. Awaiting the video :clap:
Eric
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Well, a little update for you all.
I started today with the air-hose adaptor that I started last post, I drilled the other end and tapped it M6, and then I milled a flat and then drilled and tapped M4 for the air-hose-barb-thingy.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538680678_Lmzfn-XL.jpg)
Then back onto the lathe, I chucked a 6mm brass rod, and turned a 5mm to 3.5mm taper on the end. This is gonna be the inner tapered pin that will block or let a controlled amount of air through to the air outlet.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538680830_XCb6C-XL.jpg)
Then I threaded the rod M6, and then knurled the end
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538679654_qQQPn-XL.jpg)
(notice the slight mess-up on the threading, I hadnt got enough of the rod sticking out and didnt match the thread up well enough during the 1st pass on the 2nd section :doh:)
But when put together it fits and works ok. There is a little leak of air from around the knurled/threaded area when the home-brew valve is open, but not so much that would bother me at the moment.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538680465_LH5U7-XL.jpg)
I then made up a round base out of some ali bar I had, drilled it and counterbored for the mounting screws, and also drilled and tapped a center hole M6. The center tapped hole is for mounting the Ali base onto a wider turned wooden base that I plan to make. (if folk are interested I'll do a project log on that too)
Here's the little wobbler on its little base.
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538679941_GGGfk-XL.jpg)
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/538680273_yK28p-XL.jpg)
And then, (drumroll please)
It runs :D :D :D :D :D :D
:ddb: :nrocks: :ddb: :nrocks: :ddb: :nrocks:
Here's a little video to feast your eyes on. (please ignore the stilted voice-over and the overly long presentation) (sorry bout the link, I can't seem to embed the video, I have the code for embedding into a webpage but it doesnt seem to work on the forum)
http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/gallery/6979245_4Y8j6#538667142_HuiNP-S-LB (http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/gallery/6979245_4Y8j6#538667142_HuiNP-S-LB) (smaller web version)
http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/gallery/6979245_4Y8j6#538667142_HuiNP-M-LB (http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/gallery/6979245_4Y8j6#538667142_HuiNP-M-LB) (larger version for those with higher speed connections)
Thank you all for following this, and for helping me out with plenty of tips and suggestions.
Tim
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PURRRRRRRRRRRRRRFECT
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Well done Tim just by your nice methodical approach I just knew it would be Runner.
What next
Stew
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Congratulations Tim ................... nice runner, good feeling ain't it :clap: :thumbup: :beer:
CC
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Just now joining this thread and I have to say that it has some of the best close-up camera work I have seen!! There's a fingerprint there clear enough to get you convicted... :lol:
What camera are you using?
-
Thanks CC and Stew, it really is a great feeling to see it run. I think with a better fitting piston it might run a bit better.
Honestly I really dont think I would've finished by now if it wasnt for the great help found in the members of this forum. :mmr: I've learnt so much and am grateful for Bogs advice to start on a smaller, simpler engine before embarking on a larger, more complicated one as I've learnt a lot from this build that (hopfully) will stand me in good stead for the next one.
What next
After doing a little woodturning to make a bigger base for this one, the next project will be for the mill, a belt drive conversion, then a few little tools and handy workshop gadgets and then I'll be starting on Bogs "PaddleDucks" engine.
Tim
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Just now joining this thread and I have to say that it has some of the best close-up camera work I have seen!! There's a fingerprint there clear enough to get you convicted... :lol:
What camera are you using?
Thanks Websterz, I'm using a Canon 400d Dslr(rebel XTi), 17-85mm lens (mostly at the 85mm end on these pics) @f7.1 ish, lit by a Canon 580ex flash bounced off a grubby ceiling.
Photography is another hobby of mine, and I love doing macro shots. Here's one from my gallery
(http://velvet-art.smugmug.com/photos/520465633_Mex4X-L.jpg)
On that one the green thing is a blade of grass and the biggest drops of water are only 2-3mm wide :D
Tim
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Wow! That is amazing, never seen anything like it! :bow:
The engine is great too! :bow: The feeling is immense when an engine runs for the first time and yours runs perfectly, it's difficult to get single cyl wobblers to run slowly because of the way the power is delivered and the stroke is pretty short on yours. I personally wouldn't bother with the new piston, don't think it'll improve matters greatly, it'd be difficult to get it any better. It will improve with running in too.
It looks a perfect choice for your first engine but you've also used many techniques that will stand you in good stead for your next project. I managed to make a working stirling engine of my own design but the practice i've seen you use in this project are much more sound than mine. As Stew said your overall methodical approach was spot on too.
Well done.
Nick
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...bounced off a grubby ceiling...
Ahhh...your secret has been revealed!! :lol:
Todd
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Thanks Nick,
Ahhh...your secret has been revealed!! :lol:
Arrghhh, darn it!!!! My secret's out, me and my big mouth :wack:
Tim
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Now that's what we like..... "Wooo Hooo!!" :lol: :thumbup:
You must have felt good seeing that run? :thumbup:
Nice video, and website :thumbup: Although do you know there's some wierd envelope thing with writing on it all over your pic's? :scratch:
:lol:
Nice work Tim :thumbup:
Ralph.
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Brilliant Tim ! You no doubt have a grin a mile wide - I must warn you it will last for at least a week, probably longer. I guess you are well and truly hooked and there is no known cure.
JohnS
by the way I think there are quite a few of us who would welcome some tips on workshop photography ???
-
Fantastic stuff Tim, good on you....
Don't start the paddleduck, you'll have it finished before I do, about ten days before I started from the speed you've been going with this one.... :lol:
I still can't get over your pic's, you'll have to give us some lessons as John S suggested...really shown me the quality of my screen :bugeye:
-
Nice pic :thumbup:
I use a 350D, good tool to be sure :headbang: .............. though near the lathe and mill I tend to use the cheapo point n' press :med:
Something someone said to me on another forum a little while back, don't use the same material for cylinder and piston ........... can result in problems ......... I was using Aluminium at the time mind, perhaps some of the guys can throw a little light on this :scratch:
Cracking lil' runner though :thumbup:
CC
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Tim,
Nice job on that engine. Mine ran a bit rough to at the begining but after several hours of running time it ran much smoother. A bit of oil would also help it run smoother.
And as everybody else has already said nice clear and "bright" pictures. Thanks.
Bernd
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Thanks Ralph, it felt great seeing it run, very satisfying.
do you know there's some wierd envelope thing with writing on it all over your pic's? :scratch:
Yea, it's a feeble attempt at copyright protection to discourage toe-rags unsavory characters from nicking the pics off the website and passing them off as their own.
Brilliant Tim ! ...... there is no known cure.
....
by the way I think there are quite a few of us who would welcome some tips on workshop photography ???
Thanks JohnS, there may be no cure but is there any treatment? :lol:
I'd be glad to share what little I know about taking pics, I'll start a thread a little later on about it :thumbup:
Fantastic stuff Tim, good on you....
Don't start the paddleduck, you'll have it finished before I do, about ten days before I started from the speed you've been going with this one.... :lol:
Thanks Darren, dont worry about the paddleduck, it'll be some while before I get starting that one, I gotta do a few other bits before then. I don't think I could keep up the same rate of work anyway, I have to give a bit more time to my Honey for a week or two to make up for all the time I've been spending making smaller metal bits out of bigger lumps of metal. :lol:
Nice pic :thumbup:
......
Cracking lil' runner though :thumbup:
Thanks CC, I was so surprised when it ran the 1st time I put air into it, and after just a few revolutions it ran quite slowly (well to me anyway) and smoothly.
Nice job on that engine. Mine ran a bit rough to at the begining but after several hours of running time it ran much smoother. A bit of oil would also help it run smoother.
Thanks Bernd, I'll have to let it run for a while each time I'm in the workshop :thumbup: I did put some oil (3-in-1) both in the airline and on the relevent moving surfaces. I did think that perhaps it might be an idea to drill an oil cup into the top of the frame with a tiny hole leading through to the crankshaft-bore to lube the crankshaft?
Thank you all for watching my little build and for taking the time to comment and give advice/help. You guys are the best :mmr:
Tim
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Very nice indeed Tim.
You should now have on your face a grin from ear to ear. :D
To repeat the experience, just carry on making little engines, and you will get that grin every time you get one running. :)
Bogs
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I did think that perhaps it might be an idea to drill an oil cup into the top of the frame with a tiny hole leading through to the crankshaft-bore to lube the crankshaft?
Tim
Tim,
The plans actually show just what your talking about. I quickly had to check the drawings to make sure I was correct. It wasn't pointed out in the drawings, but the hole is there.
Bernd
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Tim,
Congrats on the runner! Job well done. :clap: :borg: :clap:
On a side note... you got an online gallery of your photo skills?
Eric
:nrocks: :nrocks:
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Tim,
The plans actually show just what your talking about. I quickly had to check the drawings to make sure I was correct. It wasn't pointed out in the drawings, but the hole is there.
Bernd
:doh: Must have missed that bit. Oh well, it'll not take long to install that hole.
Congrats on the runner! Job well done. :clap: :borg: :clap:
On a side note... you got an online gallery of your photo skills?
Eric
Thanks Eric, I'm a very happy bunny.
I do have a photo-gallery-website, it's www.velvet-art.co.uk (http://www.velvet-art.co.uk), I've only had it since the end of december and just add to it on a semi-irregular basis :lol:
Tim
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Awesome engine!
Very nicely made, and she sounds very sweet when purring along. :clap:
I need to get my other things done and go down that road as well one of these days!
Oh and beautiful photography.....
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Awesome engine!
Very nicely made, and she sounds very sweet when purring along. :clap:
I need to get my other things done and go down that road as well one of these days!
Oh and beautiful photography.....
Thanks SPiN :thumbup:
I've been running it for a few mins every time I've been in the workshop and now it'll run smoothly on 11 psi, it seems to be bedding in nicely
Tim
-
So I finally got round to finishing off this project by turning a wooden base for it. Now this is more familliar territory for me, and while I did this on my woodworking lathe, the techniques are the same on an engineering lathe equipped with a toolrest.
1st of all I got a chunk of oak that happened to be around my dad's workshop (that's where my woodturning lathe is residing), and that chunk of oak just happened to be quartersawn ( nice looking grain ).
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559205156_RHUWF-XL.jpg)
I then marked it out with lines on the diagonals. This was because I was going to mount it on the faceplate, but then I realised that I had my external jaws on my 4jaw self-centering so I just gripped it with that.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204164_WRYpy-XL.jpg)
I then turned a dovetail recess on what will become the underneath of the base. ( this was to match the dovetail jaws that I then mounted on the 4jaw ) then I removed the oak from the external jaws and bandsawed it into a rough circle. ( the only type of circle I can cut on a bandsaw :D )
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204308_znKBs-XL.jpg)
Then I mounted the dovetail jaws onto the 4jaw, and mounted the oak base onto them. Then I turned a recess to fit the ali base of my elmers#25.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204449_WXZF2-XL.jpg)
I then turned a concave section, 2 flat bits and 2 tiny grooves.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204606_6VYJ4-XL.jpg)
Then I sanded it 120,220,230 and then 420grit, burnished it with 0000 wire wool (sourced locally from steel sheep :lol: ) Then I finished it with quick-drying friction polish, then I polished it up with some canuba ( I think that's how it's spelt :scratch: ) wax.
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204682_ZVeRp-XL.jpg)
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204783_KJ5LA-XL.jpg)
These are the tools I used,
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559204933_uJPF6-L.jpg)
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/559205045_VW7Ki-XL.jpg)
I find woodturning a very tactile experience, when I started to turn the base I didnt fully know what shape I was going to make, the wood sometimes just lends itself to a certain shape. The shape just flowed on this one.
Now all I've got to do is polish the engine up and take some final photo's.
Tim
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Now that is inspirational... :clap: :clap: :clap:
Beautiful result there, I'd really like to try turning some wood one day and oak I like..... :)
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Very nice. The base really sets it off.
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Thanks guys :thumbup:
Darren, you've gotta try turning wood, it is so theraputic :med: it is a very different style of working, so much more "earthy". I recommend it to all to give it a try.
Unlike turning metal, with woodturning the harder and denser the wood the easier it is to get a great finish. (that's true to a point, there are some really abrasive woods that will take the edge right off your tools soo quickly) But getting a good finish on, say pine or some similar softwood, requires a lot of practice ( or a lot of sanding ), whereas with hardwoods, especially with close grained hardwoods like maple or african boxwood, you can get an almost polished finish right off the tool.
But try it out, get a tool rest for your lathe (or make one) and get a couple of woodturning tools (or again, make some) and make some shavings. One note of caution though, dont just rely on safety glasses, use a full faceshield. With wood you can come across defects in the wood that can cause it to disintegrate very suddenly :bugeye:
Tim
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I'm liking the wood turning Tim :thumbup: It does set the engine off nicely ( I might have to make a wooden base for my little Elmer? )
Always wanted to have a go with a wood lathe.... Too messy for my metal lathe I think?
But one day I'll have a go and most likely enjoy it :)
The way you made the base....I didnt fully know what shape I was going to make, the wood sometimes just lends itself to a certain shape. The shape just flowed on this one.
That's how I like to machine metal.... Something like "free hand" :dremel: I do cheat a little, using the tool post and the radius turner :thumbup:
Looking forward to seeing the fully finished article :)
Ralph.
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By `ek Tim!
That looks lovely! :bugeye:
Well done, well described, well shown..... :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Tim,
Well done, finishes it off very nicely. On my last oscillator I made more of an efford on the base ... I milled the piece of wood with steps around the side, was quite impressed with myself!
My only experience of a wood turning lathe was at school, I can't quite remember what I was making but anyway, the teacher was showing me what to do and that I had to be careful as if the tool dug in, the wood could split down the middle. At which point, the wood split, one piece hitting the roof and the other clanging on the splash back! I think it was a cheap and nasty piece of wood, he also put it between centres with some sort of spikey drive that dug into the end grain of the wood. Maybe he advanced the tailstock too much splitting the wood?
I've never used one since although I have turned wood in my metal lathe before with good results just moving both feeds at once.
Nick
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Thanks for the comments guys :thumbup:
My only experience of a wood turning lathe was at school, I can't quite remember what I was making but anyway, the teacher was showing me what to do and that I had to be careful as if the tool dug in, the wood could split down the middle. At which point, the wood split, one piece hitting the roof and the other clanging on the splash back! I think it was a cheap and nasty piece of wood, he also put it between centres with some sort of spikey drive that dug into the end grain of the wood. Maybe he advanced the tailstock too much splitting the wood?
That can happen, hence the advice to wear the full face protection. If using a normal live center in the tailstock there can be a danger of tightening the center into the wood too much causing the splitting you described. The solution is to either not advance the tailstock too much (kinda hard to quantify though) or to use a live "ring center" which is designed to prevent the exploding from over-advancing the tailstock to tightly.
The key to getting a good finish off the tool is to let the bevel of the tool rub against the wood as the tip cuts, this gives a clean cut and also burnishes the wood, this is especially true when turning woods that are not close-grained (such as Oak, Pine, Balsa ... )
Anyway, I spent some time today doing some final photos of this project, I'll post up a bit about how I did it in my post about photography.
But here are 2 pics
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/560117651_zqjPv-XL.jpg)
(http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/photos/560119113_gHtyh-XL.jpg)
Thank you all for your support, advice and encouragement on this build, you guys are the best :thumbup:
Tim
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That's well finished Tim and a dam good thread if I may say so, well done for taking the time to put it together :thumbup:
From the 1st one of the photo's in your last post I suspect Ralph's title of "King of Bling" may be under pressure before long :beer: ................ looking forward to the photo thread update.
CC
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Well done that man well finished off and presented engine :thumbup:
Stew
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Thanks Stew and CC :thumbup:
I've posted more on the behind the scenes of these pics in the How-To on photography.
From the 1st one of the photo's in your last post I suspect Ralph's title of "King of Bling" may be under pressure before long :beer:
I dont think I'm anywhere near Ralph's standard, I just attacked it with some brasso and the rest is down to tricks of the light :)
Tim
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CC.... I refuse to bite! :med:
Tim,
Very nice little "trophy" engine.... That's what I call mine since they spend their time looking pretty on the shelf! :)
I like the light flooding pic..... Is it on a mirror?
I do like this kind of photo taking.... I just need a better camera to do more one day ::)
So, In true tradition....... What's next :thumbup: :proj: :lol:
Ralph.
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Thanks Ralph :thumbup:
Re the photo's, I posted up how it was all done here :- http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1222.msg11635#msg11635 (http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1222.msg11635#msg11635)
I do like this kind of photo taking.... I just need a better camera to do more one day ::)
You dont need a fancy, all-singing all-dancing camera to take shots like those, photography is all about the light, not the camera. Get the light right and almost any camera will take great shots.
So, In true tradition....... What's next :thumbup: :proj: :lol:
Next (once I finish my mill's belt drive conversion) is Bogs Paddleducks engine, then after that I fancy my hand at an Air/Steam powered hit and miss engine, then after that maybe a slow running mill engine, and then after that ......... (oh oh! looks like I've caught it :proj: )
Tim
edit: If anyone wants to see more pics of my Elmers# 25 there is a few more on my website - here (http://www.velvet-art.co.uk/gallery/6979245_4Y8j6#560117651_zqjPv)