MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: velocette on January 29, 2012, 02:05:46 AM
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Hi this is a "What I Did not a How I Did It" post
Also posted in Hmem
Stripped out All gears and counter shaft from mill head and replaced bearings With Taper Roller Bearings 30206
30 X 62 X 17.25. Grind down 1.5 mm from inner race. Fabricated brass shim shields .25 mm thick = 16 mm Height (same as original ball bearing)
Fabricate and Fit "Poly Vee Pulleys calculated to give 1200 rpm 1900 rpm and 3500 rpm
Drill and tap top of gear box to fit 12 mm aluminium mounting plate
Removed torsion spring mechanism and fitted Longer rack to give 205 mm travel.
Fitted "Air Spring" to counter weight of mill head 24 kg rated.
Added rev counter from diesel engine 96 tooth disc and ABS wheel sensor from a Volvo as pickup 12 volt DC powered.
Made and fitted stiffener for column Thanks to all who submitted their ideas to "Home Model Engine Machinist."
The results are remarkable "Self Praise Again." No grumbling gears or power wasted making them spin
Added photos of Belt Drive
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Nice job with the belt drive. I didn't make mine, but bough t it. Well worth it!
I am going to be doing some of the other mods you described as well.
Eric
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Nicely done Velo. :clap:
I also bought mine. One of the best improvements to the mini mill. Though I would prefer a lower rev range......
David D
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I wonder if anyone has done this to the Warco WM16 etc. ??
The gears on mine make a hideous clatter sometimes ..
Keeps me awake ... :(
BTW while we're not really on the subject of Velocettes ... seen this ??
http://modelengineeringwebsite.com/Velocette.html
BC
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I wonder if anyone has done this to the Warco WM16 etc. ??
The gears on mine make a hideous clatter sometimes ..
Keeps me awake ... :(
BC
Done a few part conversions, replaced the motor to input shaft with belt drive to (a) make it a bit quieter and (b) up the speed for small cutters.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/registered_user/warcoWM16beltdrive.jpg)
John S.
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Hi John
That's interesting ... :thumbup:
I must have another poke in the guts on mine. Did it last year when I was firmly convinced there were'nt many teeth left on the thing but all appeared intact ..
I could do with a bit more zoom on it. Tops out at 2250 rpm .. too damn slow for 3mm slot drills in PVC ..
When the controller went pfffft I ran via a Variac and rectifier for months. Much better.
BC
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I wonder if anyone has done this to the Warco WM16 etc. ??
The gears on mine make a hideous clatter sometimes ..
Keeps me awake ... :(
BC
Done a few part conversions, replaced the motor to input shaft with belt drive to (a) make it a bit quieter and (b) up the speed for small cutters.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/registered_user/warcoWM16beltdrive.jpg)
John S.
that looks really interesting, how different is that to the WM14 and could it be done on the 14 as i am having overheating problems, and so are some others when using the full speed (which is only 2300 rpm) and want to do some sort of conversion as I never use cutters above 8mm and mainly smaller ones and only brass and aluminum any information would be a great help
peter
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FAO John Stevenson
Having bought a new WM16 at the Harrogate ME Exh.I have read up on the pros & cons & arrived at this post, I shouldn't/wouldn't expect any probs from a new machine but for future ref do you have any drawings, info (Pulley/motor sizes, suppliers, mountng drawings etc) that you would kindly pass on, any costs will be reimbursed.
Any info' (mods, pics, etc) from other owners of this machine will be greatly appreciated.
TIA
George
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if you have bought it from warco don't expect any after sales service the Wm 16 is the same as the grizzly G704 http://www.g0704.com/ they like my WM14 which uses the same head but a 100 watt less motor suffers from overheating grizzle tell you not to run at full speed see picture, I only do small parts in brass so mine is like a toaster. total Cr*p company.
if It me I would get rid of the noisy gearbox completely and go belt drive
http://www.g0704.com/belt_drive.html
hear is a picture of one I spotter (belt drive)
Peter
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Nicely done Velo. :clap:
I also bought mine. One of the best improvements to the mini mill. Though I would prefer a lower rev range......
David D
Hi David I have been doing a review of my posts on"Mad Modder" and would like to pass this on.
Fitted a 1.5 hp tread mill motor and "Minarik" Motor Control instead of .5 hp original motor.
This allows me to be able to use a 16 mm end mill cutting caste iron 2 mm deep @ 600 RPM 60 mm min traverse.
Using the mid range pulleys that give a maximum speed of 1800 RPM.
The improvement in power output is very pleasing with a low speed torque that the original motor never had
Been a bit naughty and set the Motor maximum speed to 5500 from 4700 to give me 3200 RPM spindle speed on High this will only be used on small milling cutters.
Eric
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Hi David I have been doing a review of my posts on"Mad Modder" and would like to pass this on.
Fitted a 1.5 hp tread mill motor and "Minarik" Motor Control instead of .5 hp original motor.
This allows me to be able to use a 16 mm end mill cutting caste iron 2 mm deep @ 600 RPM 60 mm min traverse.
Using the mid range pulleys that give a maximum speed of 1800 RPM.
The improvement in power output is very pleasing with a low speed torque that the original motor never had
Been a bit naughty and set the Motor maximum speed to 5500 from 4700 to give me 3200 RPM spindle speed on High this will only be used on small milling cutters.
Eric
Hi Eric
I have been debating using a tm motor myself. Been reading up n them, seems like a lot of them have cw rotation. I am curious, did the motor you use have cw rotation as well? 1.5 hp is right about where I want to be... What brand was the motor from?
Thanks
Eric
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[quote from: Brass Machine]
I have been debating using a tm motor myself. Been reading up n them, seems like a lot of them have cw rotation. I am curious, did the motor you use have cw rotation as well? 1.5 hp is right about where I want to be... What brand was the motor from?
[/quote]
Eric,
Most of the TM motors have some sort of fly wheel, usually a part of the drive pulley, that threads onto the motor shaft. This dictates a specific rotation even though the motor will run as well in either direction. I put a TM motor on my drill press and had to cut a key way and add a key so I could reverse the rotation. Swapping the polarity to the two input leads reverses the rotation.
Some TM motors have the brushes off set from the center line of the motor. These motors are not as happy running backward.
Joe
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...
Some TM motors have the brushes off set from the center line of the motor. These motors are not as happy running backward.
Joe
That's what I had heard Joe. Not having done that type of conversion before, I am trying to find out as much as possible.
I wonder if there is a way to tell if the brushes are offset before buying...
Eric
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Hi Eric & Joe and all others that are interested
The motor I have is a "Brand New" one bought at an on line auction. It is made by Te Wei Engine Ltd (China) and is rated at 5 amps Whoops that is 1.25 hp NOT 1.5 hp Clockwise Rotation.
This was not a problem as reversing the supply leads and it is now Counter Clockwise.
The Flywheel was removed and discarded and Stepped Pulley fabricated and fixed to the shaft and secured with two "Grub Screws" to Dimples drilled into the shaft.
The "New" motor would not fit to the Existing mounting so the yoke for the "Air Spring" was discarded and new one machined out of piece of cast iron.
With a bit of thought this could be made "Adjustable" to give MORE "Z" Axis travel from 205 mm (Max Stroke on Air Spring)
to 285 mm plus.
Adjustment is by loosening the clamping screws on the yoke and sliding it up or down the two 20 mm columns
Will attempt to tell the story with a few pictures showing Set on Low and Set on High with the motor mount as well
Eric
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That's what I had heard Joe. Not having done that type of conversion before, I am trying to find out as much as possible.
I wonder if there is a way to tell if the brushes are offset before buying...
Eric
Eric,
This sketch shows how the brushes are offset for single direction motors. I hope it helps.
(http://i944.photobucket.com/albums/ad289/AlveyJoe/Misc%20Photos/MotorDir.jpg)
Joe
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Hi John S :wave:
FAO John Stevenson
Having bought a new WM16 at the Harrogate ME Exh.I have read up on the pros & cons & arrived at this post, I shouldn't/wouldn't expect any probs from a new machine but for future ref do you have any drawings, info (Pulley/motor sizes, suppliers, mountng drawings etc) that you would kindly pass on, any costs will be reimbursed.
Any info' (mods, pics, etc) from other owners of this machine will be greatly appreciated.
TIA
George
Would appreciate any drawings/ info re above, you have available. Have seen the Grizzly G0704 site (ref.to the BF20L) but the import taxes /costs may be prohibitive as am now retired & must watch the pennies.
Cheers
George