MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: Brass_Machine on February 17, 2013, 10:43:27 PM
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I have finally settled up any long hanging projects have started to get on with my shop upgrades. I hope this one is the start of many.
I am going to start with my mini lathe. I had started out with a mini lathe that I bought from Harbour Freight. As one of my 1st machine tools, it has been through a lot of aluminum and steel. Unfortunately, it leaves quite a bit to be desired. I have a laundry list of mods that are going to happen to this lathe.
1st thing will be to upgrade the tiny bed. 7x10 is actually a lie... 7x8 is more like it. I happened to come across a sale at LMS (http://www.littlemachineshope.com) for a 16" lathe bed. Unfortunately it is for their hi torque lathe and not for any other of the Chinese lathes. Price was good... so challenge accepted.
This is the bed:
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/New_Bed.jpg)
Old lathe:
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Old_Lathe_2.jpg)
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Old_Lathe_1.jpg)
Off we go!
Eric
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Tonight I stripped the mini lathe down to see what I have to work with.
Side by side:
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Differences.jpg)
The new bed is actually 8" longer than the old one. :thumbup:
Now we get into the hurdles.
The 1st. The headstock mounting holes are not the same. Easy to rectify however.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Head_Stock_Mount.jpg)
The 2nd issue. The mounts for the motor are not the same either.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Casting_-_Motor_Mount.jpg)
Decisions...
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So the official upgrade bed kit from LMS comes with a different style motor mount.
(http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.1899.jpg)
This bed doesn't have the appropriate holes for that one either.
Some of the options:
1. Do a little work with the mill and machine the appropriate holes for stock mounting.
2. Drill out the holes for the above mount.
3. Custom motor mount.
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Go for a custom mount. That way you can make it an exact fit and attach it as you want. I'll be watching this rebuild with interest
Pete
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Hi Eric,
It will be interesting to see how you get on. I gather from the Yahoo 7x12 Group that the headstock for the "Hi Torque" variant is longer than the "traditional" one, and this is reflected in the spacing of the holes for the fixing bolts in your photos. As you say, not a big job to drill new holes and bung up the redundant ones.
I also understand that the brushless motor in the Hi Torque version may be shorter than the traditional brushed motor. Do you reckon your old motor will fit in the space provided, lengthwise? Even if it doesn't, I'm sure you will be able to devise a way of mounting it futher outboard, rather than half tucked under the bed.
Andy
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Hi Eric.
Nice to see someone else tackling mini lathe Modding! :clap:
Custom motor mount, definitely. Even if it's only a cradle to hold it more firmly. :thumbup:
Guess you've already seen my Mods....... http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7560.0.html
I can also thoroughly recommend the "gearing" down pulley/ belt mod. I do most of my machining in Hi gear, now.
Good luck. Keep the pics coming! :)
David d
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...
I also understand that the brushless motor in the Hi Torque version may be shorter than the traditional brushed motor. Do you reckon your old motor will fit in the space provided, lengthwise?
...
Hi Andy,
Yup, the motor I have does fit. The space is actually the same in size, just different mounting holes.
Eric
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Hi David,
I have been thinking about re-gearing it. If at least only to be able to use standard metric metric belts.
I am also planning on modding the cross slide. Tapered gibs and perhaps the extended travel cross slide conversion (http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4450&category=1687114045) from LMS.
I would like to get the realbull 4" spindle (http://www.amadeal.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eamadeal%2eco%2euk%2fcgi-bin%2fss000001%2epl%3fpage%3dsearch%26SS%3dspindle%26ACTION%3dGo%2521%26PR%3d-1%26TB%3dA&WD=spindle&PN=4__Spindle_Upgrade_Real_Bull_Mini-lathe__CJ18_series_%2ehtml%23a462#a462) as well.
Eric
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Looking forward to following this thread, too! :thumbup:
Any plans for the old bed casting? Might make an interesting project in itself.
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Good to see you in the workshop Eric
I will be watching :poke:
Rob
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Eric, I'm not sure if they stock spares, but these folk:
< http://www.bigdogmetalworks.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=779&idcategory= > import Real Bull lathes into the US, and as you will see from that link their 7x14 has a $2 spindle flange. Might be worth enquiring if they can supply a spindle, to save on shipping over from the UK.
Andy
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Got a little bit of time this afternoon to tinker.
I marked up and drilled out the new headstock mounting holes...
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Headstock_Mark_Out.jpg)
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Drilled.jpg)
I ended up have to drill out the last hole a bit over sized. I mixed up my measurements a hair. Not really a big deal, it gives me a tad bit of adjustment. See? It fits!
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Test_Fit_1.jpg)
I lined up the new rack. Transferred the mounting holes and drilled them out. Flipped the rack and used it as a tap guide.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Tapping_Rack.jpg)
Turned out well.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Rack_Mounted.jpg)
Not much, but some progress.
Eric
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I also ran over to McMaster Carr and picked up a few things. Mainly some drill bits and some extra m3 .5 bolts (the new rack requires 5 and the old rack only has 3). The main thing I picked up was the stock to start fabbing up some tapered gibs for the cross slide.
Eric
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Looking at the pictures, I am reminded I need to make a decision. What color to I paint this thing when I am done??
Ideas?
Eric
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Eric
It looks like now that you hit that big 4"O" you have got a fire under your butt. Looks good to see you out in the shop keeping busy. I'll be keeping tabs on you.
Cheers :beer:
Don
PS: 4"O" = 4000 posts :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Thank you for posting this mod!!! :clap:
I have a 7x10 and want to upgrade, but 14" didn't seem to be worth the $ and effort for what I would get. A 16" upgrade is worth it.
I look forward to the rest of your posts.
Allen
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Thank you for posting this mod!!! :clap:
I have a 7x10 and want to upgrade, but 14" didn't seem to be worth the $ and effort for what I would get. A 16" upgrade is worth it.
I look forward to the rest of your posts.
Allen
Hi Allen,
For $99 dollars, it definitely is worth it (well to me). From what it appears, if you are doing are just doing a swap, it is pretty straight forward. I plan to do some other mods as well, so it might take me a bit. I figure a worst case scenario will be for me to buy that motor mount I referenced in a previous post (if I don't make one).
The 16" bed is actually 8" longer than the 7x10. I figure I will be able to get some good use out of it now... no more finagling to work on something over 6" long.
I would say go for it Allen
Eric
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Looking forward to following this thread, too! :thumbup:
Any plans for the old bed casting? Might make an interesting project in itself.
No plans. I will probably sell it. I will also be upgrading my mill after this. In the process of the upgrade, I will have a column, base and saddle left over... That will become a project.
Eric
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...... I figure a worst case scenario will be for me to buy that motor mount I referenced in a previous post (if I don't make one) .....
Eric
Eric, I haven't seen the items involved myself, but the word on the 7x12 Mini-lathe Group is that the new mount won't fit the old motor (and vice versa) so you will probably need to make a new one unless your existing mount can be :dremel: modded to suit the new bed.
Andy
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Hi Andy,
I am actually talking about the mount that is designed for the old motor. It is included with the 14" bed upgrade for the old motor.
It looks like I would have to add the mounting holes for it to the new bed. The spot for the motor is the same size as the one on my old bed. There is a picture over on HMEM where Chuck fellows put the same mount on his motor (same as mine).
(http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z195/cffellows/5a036a12.jpg)
Eric
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Well... I dropped the motor :doh: :doh:
Thankfully, the only thing I broke was the pulley. Just made a LMS order, got a new pully and the motor mount for the 14" upgraded bed.
Eric
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Well... I dropped the motor :doh: :doh:
Thankfully, the only thing I broke was the pulley. Just made a LMS order, got a new pully and the motor mount for the 14" upgraded bed.
Eric
Not a metric metric one Eric? :scratch:
Incidentally. Don't forget the taper bearings, and the metal rear spacer....... :thumbup:
David D
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Not a metric metric one Eric? :scratch:
...
Well I deserved that! I didn't really explain myself earlier. What I meant by standard metric belt, was something that I could buy from McMaster Carr. When I needed to replace the belt before, I tried to get a metric replacement. For some reason, none of the metric belts (nor imperial for that matter) would fit. So I imagine that the Chinese lathes were using there own version of a metric belt... and not a 'standard' metric belt.
I did the tapered bearings when I replaced the belt. I also have a metal gear on the spindle (broke the plastic one).
What is the metal rear spacer??
Eric
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What is the metal rear spacer??
Eric
This one Eric....... http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,7643.msg81872.html#msg81872
The original one's plastic. Allowing a little flex, between the bearing tapers, when a fair cut is applied. :(
David D
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oooo. I like that! I will add that to the list!
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oooo. I like that! I will add that to the list!
Where will this end..? The list is growing... :D
How about a cam lock for your tail stock? Dead easy to make from few scraps, the mini lathe I sold recently was modded in this way to make it a more attractive proposition....
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I got into the shop for a short time this weekend. Didn't have a lot of time, I ended up forgetting to take pictures as I went. I got the leadscrew mounted up. Was fairly easy, just a little time consuming.
It went like this:
1. Mock up
2. Test
3. Test again
4. Spot drill one hole
5. Remove everything
6. Drill the correct hole for the tap
7. Tap
8. Go to step 1 (repeat for all 4 holes)
This was step 7 on the last hole to be tapped.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Tapping_the_Leadscrew.jpg)
Finally got it all assembled:
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Lead_Screw_On.jpg)
You can't see it, but I have my cordless drill chucked up on the leadscrew off to the left. I ran the saddle up and down the bed a few times to ensure there was no binding. I am happy to report that all looks good. Still a little early but the motion seems much smoother than before.
Just waiting on the new motor mount to arrive now.
I may not be able to work on it in the next few days as I am studying for a test at work...
Still deciding what color to paint it.
Eric
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That looks great! :thumbup:
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That's a nice long bed, Eric! :)
Don't forget the leadscrew handwheel......... :thumbup:
David D
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Looking good Eric :thumbup:
New bed looks a canny bit longer , which will come in handy with the CNC build :dremel:
Rob
PS Hope the test went well.
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Yup. Test went well...
Now going back to the build. I got the motor mount in from LMS. It fits the motor just fine, however, it does not fit in the space for the motor in the lathe bed. Debating on the solution while I am at work today and hope to get something fixed by tonight when i get home.
Eric
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So the motor mount doesn't quite fit.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/normal_Motor_Mount.jpg)
It fits the motor just fine. I debated cutting it down and making it work, but in the interest in time (I have some work to do) I decided to go with using the original mount. Which is basically cutting some slots and tapping two holes.
I measured and re measured. Then I mounted the bed on the lathe.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/On_the_Mill.jpg)
I proceeded to try to get the lathe all dialed in and 20 minutes later I started the first cut. A few tense moments later I had the first slot done.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Slot_One_Done.jpg)
Shortly there after, I got the second slot done. Finally drilled and tapped the two holes.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Slot_Two_Done.jpg)
As you can see, I ended up nicking one of the holes for the high torque motor mount. I did cut the slots the same as the ones on the 10" bed... I don't believe it will matter much. If you look very carefully, you can see where the first cut of the second slot went off track a little. I didn't tighten it down enough and the lathe moved. I am very surprised I got through the first slot without it happening...
Again, not too much of a big deal. It will never be seen.
Eric
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<snip>
Again, not too much of a big deal. It will never be seen.
I see it.... :P
:poke:
Sorry, couldn't resist.
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Are you going to be adding DRO and/or CNC capability while you've got it in so many pieces?
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So I ran into an issue tonight. I get it all back together and wired up. Turn it on and... nothing. Lights come on but the motor doesn't turn. So I take it apart and start trouble shooting. I have variable power going to the motor. So that part is good. I pop the the motor brushes out. Those look good.
Frustrated I pull the bell housing off the back and check the voltage at the brushes. Nothing. I check the voltage at the brass pieces that surround the brushes. Nothing. Hmmm a closer look shows one of the springs that connects the leads to the brass pieces is busted and not making contact.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/480_2574.jpg)
Knowing what I have to do, I look at LMS to see if they have replacement leads. NOPE... they do have replacement bell housings at LMS though. $17 a pop. Not sure I want to spend that much. Can I just solder the leads directly on to the brass pieces?
Eric
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Can I just solder the leads directly on to the brass pieces?
Eric
I'd have a go, Eric! :thumbup:
Don't go using too much heat, and loosen the fit in the plastic bell..... :palm:
David D
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Can I just solder the leads directly on to the brass pieces?
I don't see why not but I'd think about trying to fix the spring too. Ideas that spring to mind are tying the ends together with a small piece of wire or hooking the broken ends together, and then locking with a dab of solder. If the spring is copper you could try winding a new one. If it doesn't work you have lost nothing.
Russell
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I don't know the internal diameter of the spring, but maybe you could pass a length of wire into it at the break, round the spring and then out again at the other side of the break. Put the spring on the brush holder, and then twist the ends of the wire together to tighten it up like a tourniquet.
If that's impractical, cut the spring off the lead, and in its place solder on a length of copper wire so you have a T shape, bend the arms of the T round the brush holder and twist the free ends together to tighten up. I'm not sure how hot it gets inside these motors, but hard solder rather than soft might be better.
Andy
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Usually nothing inside of the good quality heavy duty electic motor is soldered, because they can get very hot. Specially the brushes. They easily exceed soft solder meltting temperature...it's not very ideal to have blop of solder bouncing around commutator and brushes. Another reason is repeated thermal shock, usually grimp joint responds better than a solder. Then again: the end bell looks plastic, maybe that motor should not be run hot?
Most usual joint construction is: BRUSH - flat copper braid - then grimp connector or disco connector for lead.
http://www.healystool.co.uk/productimage.html?imageid=18624&size=large
or this type flying lead and spade (sorry for the lamp):
https://www.interlight.biz/itemimages/64382.JPG
Is there any good electric motor shop nearby? They should have something to replace and iprove it. You need to specify voltage (has an effect on brush material), motor type and mechanical dimenssions. We have one oldtimer here...he has retired least 15 years ago and still has his shop on a garage.
Pekka
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Fixed the spring issue on lunch today. BTW Thanks Andy for the idea!!
The broken spring:
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/PreFix.jpg)
I took apart a twist tie for the metal 'string' inside.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Solution1.jpg)
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Solution2.jpg)
Then I threaded it into the spring and tightened it up on the post.
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Fix1.jpg)
(http://brassmachine.net/Images/albums/userpics/10002/Fix2.jpg)
Yes, I trimmed the tie before I put it together again.
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Nicely/ neatly done Eric! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Put the motor back together, made sure it spun freely and ran back downstairs to test it out.
The motor started to spin and POP blew the fuse. Cr@p. Ran to radioshack bought some more. Took the motor back apart. All looked good. Put it back together again and POP again. It will spin for a millisecond and then pop the fuse.
Started searching the web as to the reason why... I found this troubleshooting check list (http://littlemachineshop.com/Reference/DriveTroubleshooting.pdf) from LMS.
Figured out I have a busted switch in the POT, but that isn't is causing it to blow the fuse. It has been like that for a while now and I didn't have issues before. It is perm on.
I tested the MOSFETs per the PDF. Everything is fine until I get to step 8. It says I should see 120k to 140k. It comes up infinity (1). :zap:
Would that let the motor spin for a second and then blow the fuse? :scratch:
Eric
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Eric,
You can test the speed controller with a lamp as a load...Take a household lamp/bulb whatever you guys call them, wire that in place of the motor and see what happens.........
Testing the motor....If you have access to a variac, connect the output to a bridge rectifier ( plese take care to connect it properly...) connect the dc out from the rectifier to the motor and see if it spins...Connect a 2 amp fuse in series with one of the leads for protection... :zap:
Let us know how you get on...... :thumbup:
If you were a bit nearer I'd help more, I've repaired motors and speed controllers for mini lathes before you know... :coffee:
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Eric,
You can test the speed controller with a lamp as a load...Take a household lamp/bulb whatever you guys call them, wire that in place of the motor and see what happens.........
I will probably do that tonight.
Testing the motor....If you have access to a variac, connect the output to a bridge rectifier ( plese take care to connect it properly...) connect the dc out from the rectifier to the motor and see if it spins...Connect a 2 amp fuse in series with one of the leads for protection... :zap:
Nope. I don't have access to a variac or even really know what one is :Doh:
Let us know how you get on...... :thumbup:
I will!
Eric
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The motor (in the US they are 90V DC) should turn, though slowly, if connected up to a car battery. It will probably draw a fair old current, so best use jump leads.
Andy
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Eric.
I had the same problem. Among many others, over time.
Dave Bluechip brought a variac. Nowt wrong........ :smart:
I put it back together. POP!! :bang:
I bought a new motor, and control box..... Perfect! :thumbup:
The motor was sent to Portugal, where it's working perfectly! :scratch:
The control box is still on Dave's bench. :palm:
Funny stuff, electrikery........ :loco:
David D
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I have thought about hooking it up to the Mini Mills controller to see if it works on that.
This GUY (http://www.dcmotorcontroller.net/) is saying the MOSFETs need to be out of the board to test. See 'testing components'. I haven't watched his vid yet.
Getting frustrated.
:doh:
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The motor (in the US they are 90V DC) should turn, though slowly, if connected up to a car battery. It will probably draw a fair old current, so best use jump leads.
Andy
No need for jump leads... the current draw isnt that great..A small spark mebbe when connected..but you will need more than just one battery..2 at least
3 would be better
Taking the mosfets out of the board requires some degree of skill...there's a possibility that you may damage the copper lands in an attempt to remove the mosfets...I normally cut them away from the board then remove the small remains...
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Ok. This has been driving me crazy. The only thing I have done is take it apart and put it back together. And dropped the motor, but I have fixed all of that. It doesn't explain WHY the board may have issues.
So I went through the board and connections AGAIN.
That was when I found it. There is a jumper wire that goes from on port on the wire clamp to another port. I somehow had knocked that lose with the dis-assembly. However, the wire was curved and was putting just enough pressure to look like it was connected. I popped it back in and screwed down the clamp.
Ran downstairs hooked it all up and risked my last fuse.
IT SPINS!!!!!!!!
:ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Now to get it all back together!
Eric
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:clap:
Well, there you are! The moral of this story is that things should be given a good coat of looking at and wire-wiggling, to save all the :bang: :bang:
Ive been there myself. For me, the fuse blew as soon as the lathe was plugged in and switched on. Took me ages to find that I'd trapped a wire from the (now discarded) chuck guard switch under a panel, and nicked though the insulation.
Isn't it a great relief when faults which bring expense to mind can be fixed without resort to the wallet?
Andy
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Beer time......... :D :D :beer: :beer:
Glad you sorted it Eric.....
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Phew....Congrats!
:headbang:
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Nope. I don't have access to a variac or even really know what one is :Doh:
Eric
Variac ... variable transformer ..
Mines like this one except mine is 6A not 3A
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Variable-Transformer-3A-240V-Closed-Type-Variac-3-Amp-CMV3E-1-/290653603522?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D6222352600605850834%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D290653603522%26 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Variable-Transformer-3A-240V-Closed-Type-Variac-3-Amp-CMV3E-1-/290653603522?_trksid=p2045573.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27%26meid%3D6222352600605850834%26pid%3D100033%26prg%3D1011%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D290653603522%26)
Plus a bridge rectifier ... for DC
Every Madmodder should have one ( or more, can't have too many toys :lol: )
Dave BC
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Great News! Just goes to show, stubborness can be a virtue Eric!
Chuck
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Feeling really happy for you Eric! :thumbup:
David D
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Eric,
Thanks to you and this thread, I think I can do this mod. I ordered the 16" bed and it should be here Friday. Just in time for a weekend of fun in the shop. :)
Again, thank you for starting this thread and inspiring me to give it a shot!
Allen
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Hi Allen,
It is pretty simple. You have to do the following (besides setup the rack and leadscrew)
1. Measure out and drill 2 mounting holes for the head stock. Mine was shorter.
2. Fab a motor mount, I chose to recreate the slots of the 7x10
Good luck! Do a project log!
Eric
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I just ordered another bit for the lathe. Apparently, Real Bull lathes have a spindle with a 4" face plate compared to the stock 3". I ordered a replacement from Amadeal just a few minutes ago.
Spindle (http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/4__Spindle_Upgrade_Real_Bull_Mini-lathe__CJ18_series_.html)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/4-Spindle-Upgrade-Real-Bull-Mini-lathe-CJ18-series-/06/!BkOrQUg!mk~$(KGrHqEOKkEEsmgUWJChBLWvCtdfP!~~_12.JPG)
Mike's Workshop talks about the upgrade HERE (http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/headstock-upgrade.html)
Eric
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I ordered another upgrade for the lathe. LMS (http://littlemachineshop.com) Sells an extended cross slide kit for the little guy. LINK (http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4450&category=1687114045)
(http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.4450.jpg)
The plan is to make tapered gibs for it.
I still have yet to install the new spindle. I am going to order a new set of tapered bearings first. Might as well since I am going to be in there anyway... I did replace the stock bearings a few years back with tapered ones when I added the metal transmission gear. They must have a few hundred hours on them by now...
I have been using the lathe. Seems to run OK. When I turn it on, the motor kinda surges for a minute like it is hunting for the RPMs. From what I have been reading, it seems like this might be common for the tiny lathe. At this point the thought of adding a new motor and/or controller might be a good idea. Not sure how much I want to spend as I probably could have bought an 8x14 by now.
I have seen the mod to add a KBLC-19PM-MOD to a mini mill to get better performance out of the stock motor. I am now wondering if I can use it with the lathe motor??
Anyone?
Eric
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Hi Eric,
What these lathes need more than anyting is torque, so any additional mechanical reduction is the way to go. I have just finnished a jackshaft reducer for mine and it makes a world of differance.
Another big improvement is to replace the plastic spacer at the end of the spindle with a steel one.
Cheers
Abraham
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where do stand on bed mod.want to do same.tks,ken
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On my lathe I added 2 thrust bearings to each side of the non driven lead screw bearing.
Once I set the leadscrew "preload" it never needed adjusting again.
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Well, it is starting to warm up. I am going to get back on this in the next few weeks...
The continued plans are:
1. New 4" spindle and bearings
2. Tapered gibs on the saddle
3. Brass Gibs (http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3843&category=) on the cross slide
4. Replace the single half nut with a true 2 half nut system. LMS (https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1373&category=)
5. Tailstock Cam lock LMS (https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2018&category=1687114045)
6. Saddle lock
I am also going to check the bed for parallelism and straightness. I was reading a page a few weeks ago where someone else did that. I know I have seen people machine the bed on a larger mill (don't have access) butt his person did it my filing and scraping.
Anyone recall seeing a page like that? Can't seem to find it again.
Eric
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This mini mill one, Eric?
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3306.0
David D
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Nope, definitely a lathe. Definitely not a forum post. I had thought it was on gadget makers site, but can't seem to find it. This guy had a jig to hold a file to work the bed...
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Remember coming across the same site. It was a link from an American mini lathe site just cannot remember who it was.
Sorry
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Was this the site
http://www.toolsandmods.com/
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I had thought it was him, but alas, no it isn't. I just got a new laptop from work, so I can't find it in my history either... :bang:
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Found IT! (http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Lathes/7x10-7x12-Projects/TaperedSaddleGibs/Bedways.html)
After an hour of searching or so, I found what I was looking for.
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That link doesn't work for me, Eric. :scratch:
This one? http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Lathes/7x10-7x12-Projects/TaperedSaddleGibs/Bedways.html
David D
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Yup. Fixed it David.
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Hey great job on the lathe, looks pretty much how mine went, aside from the motor getting dropped :Doh: Did you get a chance to try the new 100mm spindle yet?
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Not yet. I did replace the half nut/hook thing with a full half nut. It works so much better. A more positive engagement.
I still have to put the new spindle in, the extended cross slide and the tapered gibs. Just never enough hours in the day.
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I also opted for the half nuts, I agree, they are much better. And the 20 tpi kit from LMS is also installed. I am ordering the materials for the saddle gibs as well, when I will get them built and installed is anyone's guess. Yea, definitely not enough hours in the day.
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Show us what you are doing. It can be of assistance to others (me!)
Thanks
Eric
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I have fitted the Real Bull 100mm (4") spindle to my Seig minilathe. It is a fairly straight forward job, see:
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/headstock-upgrade.html
Mike
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I found your site not too long ago, I also have the same mill you have, upgraded the x and y axis to the longer travel. Turns out it was a good investment, as the first big job was to mill the 16" lathe bed motor slots. The original table was way too short to be stable.
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I have fitted the Real Bull 100mm (4") spindle to my Seig minilathe. It is a fairly straight forward job, see:
http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/headstock-upgrade.html
Mike
Hiya Mike,
Yup, you were the one who inspired me to get that spindle. A bit of a pain to get it to the USA... but when I eventually get to it, I am sure it will be worth it. It is already a different machine with just the added mass of the longer bed and the full half nuts. When I am done, I won't want to sell it (tho I really want a 10x22).
Eric
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And so the madness begins, the need to modify vs the bank account and time. I didn't take a lot of pics during my bed mod, only have a cheap cell phone, apologies for the fuzzy pics.