MadModder
Gallery, Projects and General => Project Logs => Topic started by: sbwhart on August 23, 2011, 09:37:11 AM
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This will be a long drawn out project as I plan to fit it in around work on my loco, there will be a good few weeks between each part so any one who wants to follow along and build an engine with me is more than welcome.
John showed me a drawing he had of a popcorn engine some time ago, and a few weeks ago I cam across a picture of a popcorn engine on the web, this got me doing a little research into them.
This is the type of popcorn engine I'm planning on modeling its a Dunbar Popcorn Engine, the model is going to be 1/3 scale so it can be made on small machinery, and i just had in my stash a lump of brass that would make a 1/3 scale flywheel.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/Dunbar1.jpg)
All the engine pictures I've found are different the only thing that they all have in common is curved flywheel spokes.
So the flywheel is the first part I've made, the spokes don't have to be curved, but I liked the challenge of making a flywheel with curved spokes.
This is the only part drawn up so far, the remainder I'll get drawn up over the next couple of weeks and as i do each part I'll post the drawing for those who want to follow along.
So her we go.
This is the chunk of brass to make the flywheel a scrap yard find
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0462.jpg)
First job gripping on the out side skim up the face and the OD to give two clean surfaces to work on.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0463.jpg)
Then gripping on the inside turn up the OD to size and skim the other face.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0466.jpg)
Then using some shim from a drinks can so you don't damage the OD finish off the bore and skim to width.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0465.jpg)
That the rim done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0467.jpg)
Next turn the hub down drill put a 5mm roughing drill down the middle.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0468.jpg)
Don't part the hub off you'll do that last when the spokes are fixed.
Transfer over to the mill and cross drill and tap 1/4 ME
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0474.jpg)
To bend the spokes you need to make a bending jig.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0475.jpg)
The spokes are made from annealed 1/4 brass bar its important the brass is annealed, just heat it up to red heat for a minute or so and either quench or allow to cool.
The bend is done it two stages
Stage one
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0477.jpg)
Stage two reverse bend around pegs.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0476.jpg)
Spokes done
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0478.jpg)
Cut spokes off to length and thread a short length 1/4 ME and screw into hub with thread lock allow to cure.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0479.jpg)
Over onto the lathe with a sharp tool gently skim the spokes off to a nice tight fit in the rim.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0484.jpg)
Fix to rim with high strength loctite.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0488.jpg)
I'll let the loctite cure for a few days before I finish the flywheel off.
Stew
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Looks like you have a good start on it. Here are some photo's of a Dunbar popcorn wagon and one of the engines. It is Paul Newman's original wagon he used when he started the popcorn brand. A complete Dunbar are much more rare. this museum is a museum about popcorn since it is in the popcorn belt (http://www.wyandotpopcornmus.com/index.html)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00437.jpg)
Paul Newman's Dunbar
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00431.jpg)
The Dunbar in place
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00448.jpg)
Cretors engine
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00420.jpg)
Another Cretor's engine
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00521.jpg)
a Cretors horse wagon
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00517.jpg)
a Cretors truck
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00519.jpg)
A Cretors wagon
I have the casting kit for a ½ scale Cretors from Meyers Engine Works
Dunbar worked for Cretors and then left to start his own firm, One thing about both Dunbar and Cretors engines they didn't make the engines in house after a while they framed them out that is why there are so many slight variations in the engines as long as the bases. and the holes and piping lined up they where good to go.
In the Sept/Oct issue of Live Steam & Outdoor Railroading volume 45 their is an article on the Cretors engines by my friend Art Gaier.
One more minor item, they are not popcorn engines, they are peanut roaster drum turning engines. after they figured out a way to pop the popcorn as they improved the cooking equipment, they made drive gears, sprockets and chains to drive the popcorn popper stirring rod, so it wouldn't burn.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00363.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00475.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00416.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/DSC00391.jpg)
assorted engines
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/2wagon.jpg)
Model 2 wagon
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/3model1891stand.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d200/ptsideshow/Popcorn%20wagons%20and%20engines/4stand.jpg)
Some of the advertising cuts form one of their catalogs
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And as an added bit of information. Under the books section I can recommend all of the books and booklet (reprints) of the catalog. Great stuff! :thumbup:
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That looks like a nice project Stew, and I love the curved-spoke flywheel, something I want to try in a future build, so I'm taking note of how you assemble it :thumbup:
Tim
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Good start Stew :thumbup: :thumbup:
Chair and popcorn pulled up for the build!
:beer:, Arnold
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Very nicely done Stew! :clap: :clap:
Who needs castings, with your dexterity...... (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/respect/respect-061.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-respect-smileys.html) (http://freesmileyface.net/smiley/respect/respect-061.gif) (http://freesmileyface.net/free-respect-smileys.html)
Off to a flier, as usual! :thumbup:
David D
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Nicely done Stew :clap: :clap: :clap:
John
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Innovative construction ideas an fun looking engine to build. This will be fun to follow.
Al
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Nice work Stew, will be watching! :thumbup:
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I've bin slowly drawings up the engine in between working on my loco and a lot of other domestic duties that seem to be falling my way at the moment.
I've read that they had lubricators, but the photos i've seen with what look like lubricators are not configured in a way that would suggest that they used displacement lubricators, they appear to be some sort of drip feed into the steam inlet, is there anyone out their with any information on this they could pass on.
Thanks
Stew
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:jaw: :jaw: :jaw:
That's all...
Eric
*oh yeah, gonna be watching!
:mmr:
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Well I had a desaster on my Loco work I chipped a chunk out of the wheel flange its totaly US, this realy pissed me off I've consigned the loco under the bench whilst i get over my sulk, I'll just have to buy a new wheel.
In the mean time I decided to get on and do a bit on this.
Her's the assy drg
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/Sht1-Model.jpg)
I was planning to fabiricate the cylinder in three parts but then I found I chunk of 1 1/2" square brass left over from the loc chimney, I realised that I could make the cylinder in one peice from this.
So marked it out and set it up in the four jaw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0493-2.jpg)
Drilled and reamed the bore out 1/2" then turned a mandrell up for it to fit on.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0496-2.jpg)
With this in the spin-indexer milled the cylinder to shape.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0499-2.jpg)
Then milled the steam ports
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0516-1.jpg)
So that I ended up with this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0525-1.jpg)
Cylinder covers
One thing a beginner struggles with is lack of kit for drilling holes on a pitch circle.
Well if you have one of those digital protractors you can use it to acuratly mark out the holes.
With the bar in the lathe
First put a small centre into the bar then using a pair of deviders mark the circle in the end of the bar.
Then zero the protractor up on the bed of the lathe, put the protractor on the chuck jaw, rotate to get it zero, then mark across the bar with a scribbing block, rotate the chuck until the protractor is showing 90 deg mark across again, job done.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0530-1.jpg)
Centre pop and drill holes
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0531.jpg)
I decided that I would like something fancy on the cover, so with the chuck mounted on the spin indexer and with a vee shape fly cutter form a star in the end.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0538-1.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0550-1.jpg)
That doesn't look bad.
Stew
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Stew,
Realy like the looks of that star. :thumbup:
Bernd
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That's a really good start on an interesting flywheel, I really like your down and dirty method of indexing, with that electronic level, it ought to be dead on, and good for repeatability. I'm looking forward to seeing it completed, even if it is between building another. :nrocks: :beer: Cheers, mad jack
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That doesn't look bad.
Definitely not! - in fact, it looks great - good going Stew :clap: :clap:
:( Sorry to hear about the loco wheel - that's a real bummer...
:beer:, Arnold
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That star looks super Stew, infact, it has given me an idea!
Chris
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Realy like the looks of that star.
That star looks super Stew, infact, it has given me an idea!
I thought I was doing a flower :scratch:
Stew
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Hi Stew
Keep 'em quiet ...
Tell them it's an Aster .. :thumbup:
BC
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Hi Stew :bugeye:
Looks like this is going to be another master piece of engineering/design ,,,,,, :dremel: ,,,,,, great drawing :smart:
The star is non to shabby too :thumbup:
Rob :D
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Star is great Stew :thumbup: I also like the method for indexing holes, I have always struggled with that, on my flame licker I ended up having to elongate holes with a needle file, very messy! I have a rotary table now so should have no excuse but I don't have a chuck that'll go on it yet! I do have the same angle gauge as you though, never thought of using that, cheers!
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Realy like the looks of that star.
That star looks super Stew, infact, it has given me an idea!
I thought I was doing a flower :scratch:
/quote]
The star is non to shabby too
Its not a star its a bloody Aster
:D
Thanks for you comments chaps
Stew
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A nice projet you have here, I will be folow this with great intresst :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
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Got on with making the valve chest, this was fabricated and silver soldered, I used some hex bar fly cut down to size.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0563.jpg)
The bits for soldering I losely pined together with 1/16" brazing rod
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0565.jpg)
And soldered together
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0576.jpg)
I squared the fabricarion up as you would a casting, then centre drilled for the valve rod position, and set it up in the four jaw with a wobble bar
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0578.jpg)
Drilled it through 3mm then drilled and tapped 1/4* 32*8mm deep
Marked out for the bolt holes drilled these through 3mm then used the chest as a jig to spot through and drill and tap the cylinder, and drill the cover 3mm.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0580.jpg)
Slide valve milled a bit of brass to size and milled the vlave pocket in the base flipped it over and milled the cross slot for the rod and cross bar.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0585.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0587.jpg)
These are the bit for assy.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0596.jpg)
Slide valve in the chest.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0595.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/131_0588.jpg)
That valve cover is just calling out for something.
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Looking good, nice work. :thumbup:
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Hi Stew
What did you do to get the silver solder to run into the joints ?? If anything ..
Did you flatten some or does it just run in?
What was the grade ?
BC
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Hi Dave
It was just low melting point stuff, with easyflo flux, I planned to do it in one heating, the boss for the stem solder great first time, but I did struggle a bit to get it to fill the joints had to have a couple of tries, for the boss I just rapped a ring of solder around the joint, for the butt joins I just laid a length of solder on the joints, but I had to fill them with the rod on the reheats:- must have used about 5" of 1.5 mm dia solder at £6.50 for 18" thats about £2 worth.
I use the cadmium stuff our boiler inspector at the club buys it in bulk from someware to sell onto members.
Johnson Mathy don't supply the cadmium stuff, but other supliers still make it, don't ask me who though.
I know their is a health and safety issue cadmium, you must use it in well ventalated room, I just drag my soldering hearth outside, you can't get better ventilation than that.
Stew
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Hi Stew
I tried to do some the other day. I could not get full penetration. :doh:
I had to feed in to get it to work. After putting 4 centre pops on one bit to make a small gap.
Just wondered if you had flattened some in the joint ??
Mine is Cad free 440 from CUP Alloys.
640 C to 710 C IIRC ..
I was just soldering two flat bits of 3/4" x 1/4" overlapped by about 1/2".
________
__________
Sort of that-above-ish ... :scratch:
BC
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Hi
Stew
Engine is coming on nicely
A good bit of fabrication and soldering :thumbup: :thumbup:
On the valve chest
John
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Really nice work on the valve chest Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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BC
it was not hot enough the new cad free stuff wants a lot more stick to make it flow , it seem to be a bit sticky to me also use bogs favourite flux Tanacity 5 ( its a high temp flux and has a longer heating life )
Stuart
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Excellent work Stew, :bow:
Your thread has given me loads of ideas for getting around jobs :clap
What a pretty little engine...though I have to confess I could not see the relationship between steam engines and popcorn (well, peanuts) so thanks for the photos and old brochures.
I am in awe of your plans...mine are from the Walt Disney school of technical drawing :lol:
Keep it up, I will be watching this with interest.
Andy
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Thanks Guys
Stuart that usefull info on dealing with cad free silver solder thanks.
Added a bit of fancy work to the steam chest cover, its a bit flimsy to grip so soft soldered it to a chunk of brass, centering it by eye.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0607.jpg)
Then over onto the spin indexer, centred the tool again by eye, you don't do the cuts on centre you off set it a bit, and cut the aster :D.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0611.jpg)
Gave it a bit of heat to melt it off the solder, and a clean and polish.
That looks better.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0621.jpg)
Made a start on the piston, turned the piston up from a bit of stainless steel:- thanks Dave :thumbup:, made it about 0.3mm over size, and put a groove in it for the packing, parted it off, and screwed it onto the rod with studlock, I'll giive it a bit of time to cure before I bring it down to size.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0622.jpg)
Stew
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Nice work :bow: :bow: :bow:
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BC
it was not hot enough the new cad free stuff wants a lot more stick to make it flow , it seem to be a bit sticky to me also use bogs favourite flux Tanacity 5 ( its a high temp flux and has a longer heating life )
Stuart
Hi Stu
Was not too sure about roasting it, I melted some brass a couple of weeks ago trying to make some banjo fittings for the Stirling ... :bang:
Although I got 'em sorted in the end ... :thumbup:
:offtopic:
I'm off ...
BC
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Nice work Stew... :thumbup:
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Thanks Guys
Found out this morning why I strugled to silver solder that steam chest i was running out of propane gas, there was just enough left to melt the soft solder on the steam chest cover when:- put- it gave out.
I got some interest on HMEN for the drawings, so I offered to supply free copies with quite a few people responded, so if any of you guys want copies jut PM me with your email adress:- but be warned they are untested so their is probably a few mistakes.
Stew
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Stew,
I really like that "star" pattern - very nice. :clap: :clap: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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Cheers Dave
Made a start on the cross head guide bar, I'm using a bit of 32mm dia free cutting mild steel, but aluminium could be used if you wish.
This is the type of job you have to think through to get the correct machining sequence, the important features are the 16mm bore that the cross head works in and its concentricity to the 24mm counter bore that the front cylinder cover fits on, this will keep the cross head centre line on the same centre line as the cylinder bore.
First op centre drill and turn down the 24mm diameter,
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0638.jpg)
As the wall thickness at this end will only be 2mm I wanted to drill the 20mm as the last op, so I put down a 3/8" pilot drill followed by 1/2" roughing drill. For these drilling operation I had to support the front of the bar with a fixed steady.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0641.jpg)
Flip the bar round, and face to length and turn 28mm dia.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0642.jpg)
I was strugling to get enough reach on the tail stop over the top of the saddle, so I though if a take the sadle off I'll get closer, then I though, no if I take the tail stop of and put it in front of the sadle that would be a lot easyer.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0644.jpg)
Drilled with a searise of drill finished drilled the 20mm dia, then put a 15.5 mm drill through, and finshed of the cross head dia with a 5/8" reamer, I was real lucky that I hade thease sizes amongs my limited selection of larger drills and reamers. I was planning on boring this dia out but I hadn't got a boring bar that long, and if I had it would be a dificult job, being on the long side to get a good result, if you havn't got a reamer a drill with corner slightly radiused would do the job, the size is not that critical you can make the cross head to fit.
Bored the 24mm counterbore a nice push fit on the front cover.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0648.jpg)
As these two critical feature were finished at the same setting they should be nice and concentric.
Swap it round the other way and finish the other end off with a 20mm drill to depth.
Her it is on the cylinder.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0654.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll mill it to its final shape.
Stew
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Good going Stew; it's nice to see the oft-forgotten fixed steady in use :thumbup:
:beer:, Arnold
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Yes another day with a very good work :clap: :clap:
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Before milling the guide out I had a little corrective work to do, when I did the lose assembly I found that the nuts on the cylinder cover stopped the guide sitting down, so I set it back up in the lathe and cut the 24mm dia 2mm deeper.
To Mill out
First up I blued the guide up and using the spin-idexer marked it out, and cross hatched the bits to cut away.
Milling it out doesn't call for exact presision, you're trying to get a neat visual effect, the origonals were cast so they would have had inperfections.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0656.jpg)
On the mill first mill across the end keeping it short of the corner, this is so I would have room to run the cutter and take advatage of the horizontal power feed,.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0660.jpg)
Then mill down to the line.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0663.jpg)
Using a 14mm dia ball nosed cutter clean out the corner.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0665.jpg)
Now I had a nice flat platform to sit on to do the other side.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0667.jpg)
I swung the vice round 90 deg again so I could take advatage of the power feed, and milled out 68mm gap. For some time I was trying to figure out the best way to grip the job to machine the 10mm wide support, that bolts to the bearing stand, whilst doing this op I realised that the solution was stearing me in the face, all I had to do was mill into the the edge until it cut through into the bore.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0672.jpg)
So that you have this.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0675.jpg)
It is now a simple matter to use an hack saw to finish the job off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0676.jpg)
1/2 hr work with files to blend every thing in and you have this.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0678.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0682.jpg)
Its not quite finished yet I'm unshure how the crank will clear the end of the Guid I may have to but a dog leg bend in it, I'm going to leave this untill I've got more bits arround me.
I didn't quite get the depth of some of the drilled holes correct I was short from both ends with both the 20mm holes don't know what I did wrong probably a maths error. but it won't be any detriment in fact it will just mean the cross head will be supported over a longer distance.
Stew
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That's some awful pretty work there, Stew, pretty complex and intricate, if I do say. I also thoroughly enjoyed the information sharing of all those chiming in about the soldering issues, I think that's one which needs lots of attention, as we each end up on different ends of the issue, and it's not all the same, but critical issues in some, and pretty clear and straight forward in others. Very nice work on the crosshead guide, looking much closer to a working engine. :jaw: :beer: Cheers, mad jack
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:clap: :clap: :clap: i do like the way you made the trunk guide Stew .........clever ,,very clever :med:
Rob
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Looking good Stew, did you get any movement in the metal when you cut the side away as bright bar does have a tendancy to do things like that when you remove more from one side than the other?
J
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Thanks Jack/Rob/Jason.
Jason:- I was wondering about that also, just taken the part round to John's to borrow his spring bars to measure the bore but would you believe it he'd passed them on to a friend just the other week, so I'm going to measure them up using some small calipers its the only way I can reach in.
I'll pass the result on.
Stew
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Nicely done
The guide is very critical
You made it look easy :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
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Came out very nice :thumbup: :thumbup:
:beer:
DaveH
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Cheers John/Dave
I measured the bore up as carefully as I could and as far as I can tell its got a 0.05mm taper in it being smaller at the front, I reckon I can live with that.
Made the cross head this morning, started with a chunk of brass in the lathe turned the bore down to a nice fit in the guide, and drilled and tapped it M4,
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0685.jpg)
Then keeping the job on the chuck transfered it over to the spin-indexer, zeroed the mill up on its centre line, and fly cut down one side.
Before milling down the other side, drilled through 3mm dia then using a 10mm slot drill cut down 7mm, the extra thickness kept everything nice and strong.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0688.jpg)
Index 180 and mill the other side to give a thickness of 10mm.
With it still retained on the chuck transfer over to the lathe and part off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0692.jpg)
Set up in the mill vice and cut out the throat to give clearance to the connecting rod, flaring the throat with files.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0694.jpg)
Finished cross head fitted it's a little tight towards the front but that will run in.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0698.jpg)
One last job this morning the cross head pin a straight forward turning job.
Her it is fitted.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0701.jpg)
Stew
-
Looking VERY good Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Very nice done :thumbup:
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Looks Great Stew :thumbup:
:beer:, Arnold
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Stew, very nice ... a lot of work in that part there. I've often wondered how people did that, nice method ... guess it's one of those that although taking more time to remove metal, it's actually easier done from stock than casting.
Nick
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Thanks Nick/Arnold/Dave/Saw
Stew, very nice ... a lot of work in that part there. I've often wondered how people did that, nice method ... guess it's one of those that although taking more time to remove metal, it's actually easier done from stock than casting.
Nick
Thats a very good point Nick, I had been wondering myself how you would machine it up if it had bin made as a casting, and i just couldn't see how you would hold it. Had a good natter with John the other night about making this part and he suggested that you could make it in two parts and silver solder it together, which I think would be very veasable also.
Stew
-
On with the connecting Rod:-
Cut a length of mild steel to length and put a sacrificial centre in each end.
Then with the compound set over at 2.5 deg for the barrel shape
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0704.jpg)
Then onto the mill and mill flats on the ends had to use thin parallels for the barrel to fit in.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0707.jpg)
Drill holes for the bearings
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0711.jpg)
This is what you get
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0714.jpg)
Cut the centers off then using filing buttons shape the eye at one end to fit in cross head.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0719.jpg)
It's coming on next job crank shaft bearing supports.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0722.jpg)
Stew
-
Looking good :D
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Cheers Saw
Well it bin a bit of a frustrating day, made a good start on the bearing stands, then my DRO jammed up the read out was just saying the same numbers switched it off and on fiddled with it went and had a cupa, came back switched it on and it was OK 1/2 hr later same thing, had a fiddle left it alone for at bit switched it on all OK 1/2 hr later same thing.
Decided to leave it until the morning when its cooler, its bin darn hot her in the UK, but you would have thought it could handle a hot UK day, any of you guys experienced similar problems :scratch:
Stew
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Hi
Stew engine is looking great :thumbup: :thumbup:
The taperd con rod is a nice touch :clap: :clap:
I have a newall dro on my mill (suposidley propper gear) :doh: :doh:
I have had nothing but problems with it , at the minute its brain is scrambled
I have been told it needs reprograming
Problem is postage back and forward to newall is a fortune
John
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You have way way too much time on your hands Stew :coffee:
Cool rod :thumbup:
Rob
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I thought you guys would like to see this Brian Rupnow over on HMEN as drawn the engine up in 3D, this is the link to his thread
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=15975.msg163279;topicseen#new
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/POPCORNASSEMBLY3D-1.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/POPCORNASSEMBLY3D-2.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/th_POPCORN.jpg) (http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/?action=view¤t=POPCORN.mp4)
How cool is that :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
Stew
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How cool is that :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
Stew
That's, cool....... :bugeye: :thumbup:
David D
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Got up this morning bright and early nice and cool in the shed and the DRO work without a hitch, I think the problem must be temperature related, but the UK is not known for its high temperatures, you would have thought it would work at temperatures greater than 30 C.
The bearing support is a tail of a cleaver idea coming apart.
Squared up A piece of jig plate and fly cut it to the correct thickness.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0723.jpg)
My idea was to make both out of the same part as mirror images, first thing I realized was that my co-ordinates on the drawing were all to cock, I seemed to have snapped onto the wrong point when doing the dimensions and they are a mile out so I had to go back on the computer and correct the drawing.
Drilling the corner holes out went fine.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0726.jpg)
Spot the deliberate mistake:-the two supports are not identical one has an extension for the cross head guide to fasten to, I went and put a 20mm drill right through it. :doh:
I out cleavered my self with that one. :hammer:
Ok make another one, just a single this time and leave the support untouched.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0727.jpg)
Her they are waiting to have the rest of the unwanted bits chewed away.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0732.jpg)
Stew
-
On with the connecting Rod:-
Cut a length of mild steel to length and put a sacrificial centre in each end.
Then with the compound set over at 2.5 deg for the barrel shape
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0704.jpg)
Then onto the mill and mill flats on the ends had to use thin parallels for the barrel to fit in.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0707.jpg)
Drill holes for the bearings
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0711.jpg)
This is what you get
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0714.jpg)
Cut the centers off then using filing buttons shape the eye at one end to fit in cross head.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0719.jpg)
It's coming on next job crank shaft bearing supports.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0722.jpg)
Stew
is that a small live centre in your TS ? if it is then where are they sold
Stuart
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Hi Stuart I made it myselve using a CO running centre and a blank M3 morse taper.
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1208.0
Arceuro now sell them as a kit http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Centres.
Stew
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Thanks for the info
good build BTW
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Hi Stew, I have to say the machining of the guide was very interesting, and very well done, particularly considering its complexity, and the percentage of it which remained when the machining was done. As a side note, should you need a boring bar for something that deep, a piece of steel tube or pipe, filled with lead or solder, with a solid end to hold a cutter will do very well at great depths with a sharp edge and light cuts. I also wanted to say how cunning and beautiful the con rod has turned out, very well done, both mechanically, for strength, and esthetically, looking like architechture. I am a big fan of simplicity, and of parts holding each other in place by the nature of their fitment. The inclusion of the CAD picture also helps put your work in better perspective and shows it off better as well. :drool: I think perhaps I need to quit working so I have more time to build engines and such for pleasure, but then I couldn't afford the tooling. I could sit and go through your log many times, over and again, seeing different details each time. I'm really looking forward to watching her run, I hope you do her on steam for the video :poke: I've got a small "boiler" from a carpet machine which I intend to use for a test boiler, as a proper engine should have a proper boiler, but I can't throw away a perfectly good boiler, when it could be used for test purposes. It is hard to say too many times, just how nicely she is coming along. :jaw: :bugeye: :bow: :beer: Cheers, mad jack
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Thanks for your comments and interest Jack.
And thanks you're boring bar tip I guess the lead adds weight and deadens the vibration.
I can remember visiting one of our subcontractors, one job he had on the go were large hydraulic cylinders about 6 ft long with an ID of about 9" he had it mounted on a large long lathe with fixed steadies, and was using a long boring bar that overhung the back of the tool post by a significant amount and he had a big three jaw chuck fastened on the end of it, I asked him about the set up and he said it was to counteract the bend and natural vibration frequency in the bar.
As for putting her on steam, I don't have a boiler for that, I guess I'll have to build one someday.
Stew
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Hi Stew, I`ve not been keeping on track with this and just caught up. Amazing work as always!
Chris
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Cheers Chris
Finished of the supports.
I stuck the two supports together with two way tape, and made a couple of plugs to go in the holes to stop things moving around, I also made a filing button, for the top eye.
It was then a matter of nibbling material away from where its wasn't wanted.
In the mill
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0733.jpg)
And with files.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0735.jpg)
And used a slitting saw to cut through the base, and cleaned across the base with a fly cutter, I'd plugged the bearing hole together, so the crank shaft will sit perfectly level.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0736.jpg)
A bit more work with files and they are looking something near, I'll tidy them up a bit more but has they are going to be painted they won't need polishing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0741.jpg)
Stew
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They're very nicely done Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Stew, could you explain how to use a button to file a round? It is apparently a simple process but I`ve not tried it yet. I think you showed it me in passing a year or so again when I visited but it was in passing and taking everything else onboard, I`ve forgot! :doh:
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Very nice build :nrocks: :nrocks: :nrocks:
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Cheers Saw
Chris
Its just a nut and bolt but with round head the size you want to file the radius, you make the bolt a close fit in the hole, you just use it to guide where to machine/file too.
You can see it her with the screwdriver slot across it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0735.jpg)
Stew
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Hi
Stew
You are making this look to easy :bow: :bow: :bow:
It is nice to see files being used as they were intended :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
When you get this finished a triple expansion engine should slow you down a bit :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
John
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Thanks John,
It is nice to see files being used as they were intended
I think files tend to get overlooked, you can do a lot with them, the first job we had as an apprentice was to file a block of steel square and flat then drill a hole in it and file this so a square block fitted in it, after four week I hated the site of that bloody block. :D
When you get this finished a triple expansion engine should slow you down a bit
Something like this
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Over%20Crank%20Wall%20Engine/scan0003.jpg)
:)
Stew
-
Stew
Been there done the same thing :doh: :doh: :doh:
Did us no harm though
I got a clip round the ear for taking the thick off on a grinder :dremel: :dremel: :dremel:
Happy days
John
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This will be the last post on this job, for over a week going to have a house full of kids and grand kids.
I decided to make the crank shaft with a disc throw, quite a few of the popcorn engines I've seen [ics of have this set up so thought I'd give it a go.
With a chunk of steel in the chuck turn the od and centre drill, then centre it on the mill a off set it by the throw and drill with a number drill just below the size of the crank pin so its a tight fit. One thing they do with this type of crank is maching out a curve oposite the crank pin to balance the crank so using the rotary table mill a 60 deg curve.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0745.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0749.jpg)
Then still in the chuck back to the lathe and drill out for the crank shaft again using a number drill so that its a tight fit.
Then skim it off to correct thickness, the material I'm using is tool steel used to make draw dies from, high carbon with bits and bobs of other things in it, I'm familiar with this steel and know it turn well with high speed tools, but it produces wicked razor sharp snakes of swarf.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0752.jpg)
Glue the shaft and pin in
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0754.jpg)
Turn up the main bearings and glue them in.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0757.jpg)
Time for a few hows it looking shots.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0758.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0760.jpg)
Not bad.
Stew
.
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Nice, I realy love youre flywhile :D
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That ensemble is really nice Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
"a curve oposite the crank pin to balance the crank". Is the curve filled with lead, or summat Stew?
Surely, the crankpin area needs lightening. That area needs to be heavier...... Dunnit?
Or am I missing something....... :scratch:
David D
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:doh:
Yes your right Dave the bit oposite needs to be heavier, or the bit behind lighter.
Never mind its only for show
:D
Stew
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That ensemble is really nice Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
"a curve oposite the crank pin to balance the crank". Is the curve filled with lead, or summat Stew?
Surely, the crankpin area needs lightening. That area needs to be heavier...... Dunnit?
Or am I missing something....... :scratch:
David D
I'm with you chief ... I reckon there should be added mass there to balance the big-end and the bit of the con-rod which is considered to be rotary..
Often the 'shoulders' of the crank disc either side of the big end are cut away ..
Hmmmm...
BC
Stew nipped in quick .. poke it in anyway ...
-
Thanks Chaps! :thumbup:
It's right nice to be right, occasionally........ :D
I thought Stew had changed the laws of physics! (Jim). :smart:
David D
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I thought Stew had changed the laws of physics! (Jim).
Well they have got doubts about :smart:
I recon they measured the bit of string wrong.
:D
Stew
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Hi Stew,
Superb work! Just love your ideas :bow:
I have to ask, after seeing the way you made the steam chest (and the Potty bit), is it your twin overcrank in Model Engineer magazine?
Nice work on that too :bow: :bow:
Andy
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Hi Andy
Yes its my the over crank in Model Engineer.
The steam chest is small enough to be made from one chunk of material, if you've got a chunk of the right size, I hadn't to referted to type and fabricated it.
Thanks for you interest
Stew
-
Well back off holiday, and got another part ticked off:- the eccentric.
Using a bit of mild steel bar first turn a 5mm wide groove to 20mm dia, and put a small centre drill into the end
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0762.jpg)
Then over onto the mill and centre under the spindle.
Off set the mill to the throw of the eccentric and put in another small centre.
With a independent four jaw in the lathe and using a woble bar get the off set centre running true.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0768.jpg)
Put a 7.5mm drill through followed by a 8mm reamer.
Back in the selve centring chuck turn a little boss to take the fixing grub screw, and part off
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0775.jpg)
Set up in the mill a drill and tap M3 for the grub screw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0776.jpg)
Thats that one done.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0777.jpg)
Stew
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"Thats that one done".
And very well done it is, too! :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Thank you for nice picture and good description, I always learn something from you. :bow:
-
Hi Stew (and everyone else) :wave:
Another stupid question I'm afraid :doh:...how do you calculate the eccentric offset please? Is it half the total slide movement? I'm sure there is more to it than that as the ports have to be covered/uncovered correctly.
I really like what you are doing and am thinking about a recycle version, made out of scrap, such as an old cistern weight for the flywheel, the base from an aluminium casting from a load of scrapped office furniture at work, this sort of thing. I just love some of the steampunk stuff, and I have an idea that I could make your engine in the same vein.
Many thanks
Andy (getting brave now :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:)
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Hi Andy
Theirs no such thing as a stupid question, it's the smart honest thing to ask a question.
The off set is half the total slide movement as you said.
To work the valve spacing out I use this method, I took it from one of tubal Cains books, I've used it for three engines now and found it works well on air running model engine, steam running engines are a bit different as it all depends what you're doing with them as you want to use the steam as efficient as posable, and people will have different ideas on the best design, personally for a model I think they overcomplicate the issue.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Modmodder/scan0001-1.jpg)
For the width of the valve ports a rule of thumb:-for the inlet about 1/10 the dia of the cylinder and for the exhaust 1/4 the dia of the cylinder, I try to go to the nearest standard cutter size, for the web between the ports equals the width of the inlet port.
Hope this makes sense
That steam punk job sounds interesting, I always try and make an engine from material I have in my stash.
Stew
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For a previous build (paddleducks engine) I followed Bogs' method on the piston, in that it was roughed, then loctited to the rod, and then faced and turned to final diameter with the rod chucked in the lathe. This ensured that the piston rod and piston were concentric. Did you find that machining them separately is accurate enough? or perhaps the packing gland provides any needed adjustment.
-
Hi Kvom
I followed Bogs method too.
I'm sorry that I've misled you guys, but I failed to take a pic of skiming the piston to final diameter griping the rod in a collet so that it would all be running true.
Thanks for following the thread.
Stew
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Thank you Stew :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
So the eccentric is offset from the centre by Y/2?
That is one of the many things that I have to know and forget to ask when I speak to people about steam engines. :doh:
Keep up the great work. :clap:
Andy
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Sorry Andy
I didn't answer your origonal ?.
The slide movement is X-B
So the eccentric offset is (X-B)/2 so for the popcorn the calculation is (14.6 - 9)/2 = 2.8
Stew
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Fantastic Stew :bow: :bow:
Many thanks. :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Sorry, I am by no means a mathemetician...I have to take my shoes and socks off to count to 11 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
If I have to count anything unusual I have to ask my mate from Wisbech to take his shoes and socks off... :lol: :lol:
Andy
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While we're slightly mathematical......... :smart:
Discussed, some months back. What was the thickness of packing needed in a three jaw chuck, to throw to the required offset? :scratch:
I seem to remember a simple reply. (Like 2 or 3x throw).....
David D
-
Thanks Andy/Dave
Dave I think Marv has a programme for working that out on his web site.
Made the eccentric sleeve over the past couple of days, every time I make an eccentric sleeve I seem to end up making it a different way than the time before, I think that comes from making them from whatever material I have around at the time.
For this one I had a tub end from a bit of 45mm bar.
Started off in the lathe faced it off, centre drilled it and stuck a 1/2" drill down it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0781.jpg)
Then keeping it on the chuck transfered over to the RT centered under the mill spindle, and with a 3mm slot drill cut the shape out.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0785.jpg)
Whilst I got it centered scribed a line across the middle, this will help set up for drilling a splitting.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0789.jpg)
Then back over to the lathe things were a bit tight for room but managed to part it off:-still got enough of the stub of bar left for a flywheel sometime.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0790.jpg)
Then using the scribe marks lined it up level in the mill and drilled and tapped the holes.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0795.jpg)
Then with a slitting saw cut it in half.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0803.jpg)
Then set it up in the four jaw, using my centre height gauge get the split on centre, its more important that you get the split centered than getting it exactly in the middle 90 deg from the split.
And bored it out for a good fit on the eccentric.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0804.jpg)
Her it is assembled.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0811.jpg)
Stew
-
While we're slightly mathematical......... :smart:
Discussed, some months back. What was the thickness of packing needed in a three jaw chuck, to throw to the required offset? :scratch:
I seem to remember a simple reply. (Like 2 or 3x throw).....
David D
See this page http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/tips/lathetech/eccentrics/eccentricindex.htm
Andy (Andyf, this time)
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Thanks Nick/Arnold/Dave/Saw
Stew, very nice ... a lot of work in that part there. I've often wondered how people did that, nice method ... guess it's one of those that although taking more time to remove metal, it's actually easier done from stock than casting.
Nick
Thats a very good point Nick, I had been wondering myself how you would machine it up if it had bin made as a casting, and i just couldn't see how you would hold it. Had a good natter with John the other night about making this part and he suggested that you could make it in two parts and silver solder it together, which I think would be very veasable also.
Stew
Having taken great pleasure in watching this engine come together, and admiring the real ingenuity shown in working the parts to their final size and shape, I just want to say, working with castings is slightly different, but by no means more difficult, it just follows a different path, using fixtures and means of holding adapted to the castings, and it comes with the knowledge one doesn't have to empty out all the excess metal hidden inside, and often, the very design of the casting makes for the least amount of material removed, making the holding of it easier, because less force is necessary for the machining. I enjoy making parts and whole engines from blank stock, but I've found similar pleasure in the use of castings and building, and find each has its advantages, and both being a gratifying exercise in engineering. I only hope I get to the point of making patterns and actually casting my own parts, as that seems to really mean something to those who we watch do it on this site. I know I'm impressed by much of the skill and ingenuity shown by those who have cast every part of their engine. Don't think for a moment I would take away anything from the skillful work you are showing in this build log, it is a work of art without a doubt. :beer: Cheers, mad jack
-
Not complicated??? :lol: :lol: :lol:
My mate from Wisbech (they are all like it there)
(http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd520/andybelcher/Funnies/Itsaswampy.jpg)
Andy
-
Andyf.
Thank you! :clap: :clap:
That's the one I was thinking of........ AND, I can multiply by 1.5..... If me calculator batteries are still ok! :thumbup:
Tother Andy.
If they're all like that in Wisbech..... They look a happy lot. And they've still got all of their fingers! :D
David D
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You made that look easy :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
Cracking build log
Thanks :clap: :clap:
John
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Thanks Guys,
Andy I got an headace counting your mates fingers, took me a while spotting what was odd it didn't look like but I was damed if I could spot what.
An extra diget would come in darn handy you could have one finger for scratching your arse and one for picking your nose :lol:
Its bin awfull getting on the site over the last couple of days, I was begining to fret about it, like losing an arm.
Moving on completed the base.
Measured the centre height to the crank shaft and the piston rods take one from the other and thats what the base needs to be made with mine it came spot on 14mm.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0812.jpg)
Fly cut a chunk of ally square and to size.
Then marked out uts centre and mark a square to match the base of the cylinder.
Drilled the clamping holes
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0814.jpg)
Then with a 10mm dia ball nosed cutter and the mill head slewed over 20 deg, mill a nice flared foot, working to the lines marked.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0815.jpg)
This is what it looks like.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0830.jpg)
Stew
-
Another bit done the slide valve coupling.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/131_0840.jpg)
Not many more to do now.
Stew
-
:bow: :bow: :bow:
I have no words..
-
Looking lovely Stew ,,,,,,,,,,, sculpture in metal :med: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Rob
-
Thanks Saw/Rob
I should be ready to test it by the end of the week, keep you're fingers crossed.
Brian Rupnow over on HMEN has built an imperialised engine to this this design and got it running.
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/th_POPCORNENGINEMOVIE.jpg) (http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/?action=view¤t=POPCORNENGINEMOVIE.mp4)
I won't get much done today though we're looking after our 18 month old grandson, by this evening we'll be completly knackered running round after him.
Ho happy days
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Stew
-
Managed to get a little done this afternoon whilst the little chap had a sleep.
The valve rod support, I drew it up fancy and didn't think to much on how to make it, but when it came to it, I realized it was quite an awkward shape, I could have redesigned it, but I kind of liked it as is was. The important part is for the hole to be on the same centre height at the valve rod, so decided it would be easier to make it in two bits and bring it to the correct height by adjusting the base thickness.
With a bit of 10mm brass bar first turned a little 4mm dia chucking piece on the end, then over on the mill drill the hole for the valve stem and mill the flats.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0842.jpg)
Cut it off to length and centre drill and tap the other end M3, then gripping on the chucking piece, turn the tapered bit.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0846.jpg)
Sorry pic not very good.
Cut the chucking bit off, and make the base adjusting its thickness to get the correct centre height for the hole.
These are the bits.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0850.jpg)
I'll whittle that square end sticking up into a round later.
And how its looks.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0851.jpg)
Just got the base to machine up, but before I'll do that I want to get all the bit loosely fitting together so I can get the positioning correct.
Stew
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I love the way you think things through Stew! :clap: :clap:
And, what you produce after thinking....... :thumbup:
David D
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Thanks Dave
But I don't think I thought enough about this one:- I've got it running eventualy but it took nearly three days of trying, but persistance tamed the beast in the end.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0868.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0871.jpg)
And the video
Stew
-
YEEeeeee...... HAAaaarrrrrrrr!!! :D :) :ddb: :ddb:
That's a fine sight to see Stew! :thumbup:
Congratulations..... Blummin well done! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Nice one Stew
Runs well & looks great :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
I am looking forward to the govener build
John
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Lov it congrat :clap: :clap:
-
Really good :clap: :clap: :clap:
Very nice :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
:beer:
DaveH
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That's one lovley looking engine with those acents on the cylinder head. Runs pretty darn nice too. :thumbup:
Nice job Stew. :clap:
Bernd
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Cogratulations and well done Stew :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
Lovely engine doing its lovely thing! :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Saw your Overcrank on YouTube too...what a fabulous sound running slowly!!!! My wife was entranced!!!!
Andy
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Very well done indeed Stew :bow: :bow: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
It's a great little runner :D :D
:wack: I'm starting to dislike your builds; each time another one gets added to my growing list :doh: :lol: :lol:
(:D :D Just teasing mate; keep them coming; you're doing a GREAT job for model engineering :bow: :bow: Thank you very much!)
Kind regards, Arnold
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:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: well done Stew :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Sure is a great looking engine :drool:
very enjoyable thread too :med:
Rob
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Thanks Guys
It was a right son of a bitch to get running it took three days of trying, some of the problems were down to my hamfistedness, I distorted the bore in the cylinder because I was clamping it to the base with over long screws, took me a while to work out why it was getting tighter and tighter, had to run the reamer done the bore to get rid of the tight spots.
And as was pointed out the cylinders were on the short side, I had sussed this out and increase the length by 2 mm, but that was hardly enough, so any of you guys who had the drawings off me make a note to increase the cylinder length by at least 3mm. I had to set the stroke using a depth mic to measure the top of the piston at forward dead centre, I only had about 0.2 mm clearance.
Then I went and seized the main bearings up twice running it in with a Black and Decker, the bearing stands were pulling off line when I tightened then down and causing the bearings to bind, I sorted that by running the reamers through the bearing whilst they were bolted down on the base.
The the connecting rod was just kissing on the cross head guide, just enough to stop it, that had a file taken too it, it was just a case of chasing down the problems one at a time, and being patient.
You never truly understand an engine until you come to put it together and this was no exception, it doesn't like any tight spots at all, it seems to be bedding in OK now getting better and better as it runs, only problem is my compressor is as noisy as hell and it starts the local dogs off barking, so to avoid complaints I only run it for short spells.
Stew
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Nice work Stew, it looks / runs great now! Am tempted to have a go at that one myself but already have a list as long as my arm and no time to do them!
-
Well done Stew!! :thumbup: :thumbup:
Eric
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Thanks Nick/Eric
In order to make the body for the governor I need a ball turning attachment, being a bit of a tight wad I didn't want to go out and buy one and I wanted something that would be quick and cheep to build, and I tough of my RT, I hunted around my stash and came up with this lot.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0874.jpg)
A couple of mornings work and I had got myself a ball turner.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0875.jpg)
Here's a picture of my balls
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0888.jpg)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Their fly balls for the governor I could have bought some 1/2" brass balls but I wanted to give it a try.
Stew
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Now, THAT was well thought through, Stew! :clap: :clap:
Nice balls, too...... :thumbup:
David D
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Thanks Nick/Eric
In order to make the body for the governor I need a ball turning attachment, being a bit of a tight wad I didn't want to go out and buy one and I wanted something that would be quick and cheep to build, and I tough of my RT, I hunted around my stash and came up with this lot.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0874.jpg)
A couple of mornings work and I had got myself a ball turner.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0875.jpg)
Here's a picture of my balls
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0888.jpg)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Are those off of the Brass Monkey? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Their fly balls for the governor I could have bought some 1/2" brass balls but I wanted to give it a try.
Stew
Nice job Stew but I feel sorry for the Monkey. :lol: :lol:
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Nice work, I like it. :bugeye:
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Super looking engine, Stew. Look forward to pics complete with balls.
I see from the latest MEW that you are showing it at the Sandown MW Exhibition, along with your elbow engine. It's a good thing I'm not going, or you'd have to chain them down.
Andy.
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Nice idea with the rotary table, gives you a lot more control, finer feed :thumbup:
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Cheers Guys
My lathe has quite a big throw, so I could get the rotary table under the chuck, it probably won't work with most lathes.
Stew
-
Things slowed down on this over the last week what with visiting our son up in Glasgow, and i wasn't too happy how it was running far to sluggish, so I've spent a few days tinkering with it, the engine that is. Slowly chased the stickiness out of it final part was to make a new front cover, for some reason or other it was nipping the piston rod and slowing things up, so made a new one making sure, everything was correct, that did the trick its running great:- like one of Dave Stilldrilling orphans.
Also spent a bit of time drawing up the governor
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/Sht7-Model.jpg)
Your probably thinking how the hell is he going to make that, well I've no bloody idea also :scratch:
:lol:
But you don't know what you can do until you try.
First part the swiveling bit.
Rough out a chunk of brass bar.
Then form the domes, things were a bit tight so I had to finish off the back dome with a file and Mk 1 eye ball.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/IMG_3524.jpg)
Looks ok
Tomorrow I'll start to mill it out.
Stew
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I like your'e drawing, what program are you using? :scratch:
-
Hi Bennie
I'm using autocad 2008
Stew
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Not had much orphanage time recently, Stew...... :(
Many thanks for your efforts! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Good mornings work in the shed, finishing off
Keeping the job in the chuck transfer over to the spin-indexer and fly cut the flats.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0897.jpg)
Then find the centre of things and zero the DRO.
Drill
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0899.jpg)
Then off set and drill the 1mm holes fly the fly ball arms.
Turn it through 90 and mill the 2mm slots for the fly ball arms with a slot drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0905.jpg)
For those of you who don't know what a spin-indexer is here's a pic of the set up.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0908.jpg)
Then still keeping the job in the chuck put it back in the lathe and finish off the diameters so that everything is nice and concentric just in case anything moved under the mill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0911.jpg)
OK again keeping it in the chuck back onto the spin-indexer and mill the 3mm dia groove for the drive belt I just turned the indexer by hand to cut the groove.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0919.jpg)
Back onto the lathe to part off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0920.jpg)
The reason I left the big bit sticking out at the front is to give me something to chuck onto to finish the back end.
So holding onto the chucking piece, clock up true.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0921.jpg)
Drill through for the spindle then open out to 12mm with a boring bar for the bearing.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0922.jpg)
Then protecting the finished dia, turn it round in the chuck and skim the chucking piece down and dome the end.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0933.jpg)
Job done, needs a bit of tidying up with a file and the shape is a bit off but it will do the job fine.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0935.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0936.jpg)
Need to buy a new tank of propane for the next bit.
Stew
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Hey Stew! :wave:
Yer gettin' a bit too good for this place....... :lol: :lol:
Superb! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Yes, you are still the Man :bow: :bow: :bow:
-
Stew ... amazing design and execution! :bugeye: :bow:
-
Stew,
Very nicely made :clap: :clap: :clap:
Very nicely shown :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
:beer:
DaveH
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Hi
Stew
Very nicely done & well shown :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
Thanks John/Dave/Nick/Benni and Dave
Got on with the fixed part of the governor, this is the bit that has the packing gland in the real job its sit in the little loop so you can replace the packing without having to strip everything down, well thats what I think it does, I'm going to cheat with this as I cant think of a way to get in and tap the hole and at the same time screw it onto the steam chest, so I'll just fiddle it and make it look like the real thing.
Fist job rough it out.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0938.jpg)
Then with the ball turner form the rads it was a bit awkward get the back rad done because of hitting the chuck, so I had to eye ball some of it.
Looks ok
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0943.jpg)
I scratched my head on how to do the next bit, doing the out rigger for the belt jockey wheel. In the end I just filed a lump of brass to match the radius and screwed it to the body with a 6ba brass screw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0945.jpg)
Then silver soldered it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0946.jpg)
I left plenty of meat on so it was over to the indexer for milling.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0947.jpg)
And locating and drilling the holes.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0951.jpg)
So this is how it came off the mill
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0952.jpg)
Then I turned up a filing button and using this as a guide whittle the unwanted stuff off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0966.jpg)
Then back onto the lathe and parted it off the bar.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0967.jpg)
Then it was a matter of using the chucking pieces to finish off each end.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0969.jpg)
Time for a hows it looking shot
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0975.jpg)
Not bad
Stew
-
Not bad?? :bugeye:
Artistry....... :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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:drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool:
I think you are the GOVONER
John
-
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
-
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
-
In order to make the body for the governor I need a ball turning attachment, being a bit of a tight wad I didn't want to go out and buy one and I wanted something that would be quick and cheep to build, and I tough of my RT, I hunted around my stash and came up with this lot.
A couple of mornings work and I had got myself a ball turner.
What is it you Brits say when something is just .... "smashing", "brilliant"? It's one of those "now why didn't I think of that" moments... :doh:
I have a similar setup on my lathe/mill with plenty of clearance under the chuck and I'll be giving this "a go" myself! Thanks for the great idea.
-Sparky
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Stew,
I have to hand it to you, that is one bit of fine machining there in making the govoner. I'm impressed. :bow: :bow: And it's done manually, no CNC involved. :bugeye:
Bernd
-
Cheers guys for all your support.
Didn't get anything done today.
But thought I would ask a ? of you guys, I may have asked it before but no harm in asking again.
I've been trying to get my head round the plumbing you see on popcorn engines, no two seem the same, some look like Russian spy trawlers they've got things sticking out every ware.
I'm going to keep it simple along the lines of this.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/Dunbar2.jpg)
but without the twirly whirly bit which i've worked out is for a pressure gauge.
But the lubricators the sticky up thing in front of the steam chest looks all wrong to me, its bottom looks to feed into the the steam pipe, but for a displacement lubricator this is wrong.
Has any one got any knowledge of this or access to an engine with a lubricator on they can check out.
Even though I will be running my engine on air and displacement lubricators don't run on air I like the idea of fitting one.
Cheers
Stew
-
Hi Stew
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: looking great ,,,,,,, very nicely done :bow: :bow: :bow:
The displacement lubricator could look like this ,,,quick doodle ,,,,,, lid missing :D
Rob
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Hi and good work as usual.
Yes the lubricator could be better, if you look how I have done it http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=6151.0 (http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=6151.0), I believe that you can get a better idea. :D
However you're engine is a fine peace of art, a Mona-Lisa in engine, a well done Mad Modder project. :clap: :clap: :clap:
-
A few photos I have.
-
Just catching up with this thread. Amazing work on the governor so far :bow: :bow: :bow:
Eric
-
Thanks for your input and comments guys.
Rob got it correct with the lubricator, Jim over on HMEN posted a drawing so thats one ? answered.
The next ? is their anything worse than a good dose of man flue, its hit me with a vengeance, so I've cozied up all day in front of the computer, drawing up the supply manifold.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/Sht8-Model.jpg)
Stew
-
Dragged myself into the shop today and finished off the bits and bobs for the governor:-
Turned up the jocky wheels and crank shaft pully. No pics
Then made the fly ball arms, I used mild steel
Squared up a block and first drilled the pivot hole 1mm and the corner holes.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0983.jpg)
Then with a milling cutter milled one side deep enough to make the two arms, then swiveled the vice round, and milled the angled bit.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0987.jpg)
Then split them off with a slitting saw.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0997.jpg)
Spent a little time filing them to fit, and filed the end into a rough round then run a M2 die down it.
Drilled and tapped the balls
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_0999.jpg)
I took delivery of some 3mm dia o ring cord this morning that I'm going to use for the drive belt, so time for another hows it going to look shot.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1001.jpg)
Stew
-
Ohh, my..... (http://serve.mysmiley.net/love/love0078.gif) (http://www.mysmiley.net)
David D
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:bow: :bow: :bow:
-
Oh my. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
-
Thanks:- Dave/Saw/Bernd
Ok with my bigger watermark now in place.
Made the manifold.
Started with a bit of brass bar, turn it down to size and part off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1006.jpg)
Then drill and tap one end marked the tap up so i wouldn't go in too deep.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1007.jpg)
Turned it round and did the same to the other end and also thread the OD 3/8*32 ME.
Then mark out where the holes are to go, then in the spin-indexer drill the holes 3mm for the couplings, also milled a small flat on the hole position so the coupling would have something to sit square against for soldering.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1011.jpg)
Turned up the coupling with a little 3mm nipple on the end 3mm for a tight fit in the manifold.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1013.jpg)
Couplings pressed in.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1014.jpg)
Onto the silver soldering just added a little bit of flux, and a few nuggets of solder and heated them up to everything melted in, then into the pickle for 1/2 hr.
Back onto the spinindexer, square up onto one of the coupling pick the hole centres up and drill.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1015.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1016.jpg)
Wilst it was in the pickle made the stop valve nut.
Her it all is
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1019.jpg)
Stew
-
Nice work. :clap: :clap:
:offtopic:
After silverloading what are you using to clean the material :smart:
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hi Benni
I'm using a Citric acid solution, its used in baking you can get it from suppermarkets, it comes as a powder and you just add it to water to make a strong solution.
Stew
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Thank you (it's Citronsyrelösning in Swedish), I will try that next time. :headbang:
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Hi Stew . :clap: :clap:
The governor looks spot on ,,,,,a cracking bit of machining :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
I see you managed to fined O ring cord :dremel:
:lol: :lol: :lol: are you sure they are your photos :lol: :lol: :lol:
Rob :D
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I see you managed to fined O ring cord
Yes Rob thanks for putting me onto it:- less than £2 for a meter including postage on flea bay.
:thumbup:
Stew
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Finished off most of the fittings for the manifold.
To make the body for the whistle valve just square up a chunk of brass and put a small centre where the coupling will be turned.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/IMG_3527.jpg)
Then using the good old wobble bar get it on centre in the four jaw chuck
Turn and thread 1/4*40 and drill through 2mm and part off
Over onto the mill and mill a 3/16 slot across it.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1028.jpg)
Drill a 1mm hole for the lever pin
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1030.jpg)
The lever is made from some 3/16 square mild steel bar, so in the self centering four jaw with the compound slewed over a couple of degrees turn up a nice shaped handle, and part off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1031.jpg)
Drill a 1mm hole for the pivot pin.
Next bit the valve spindle, from a bit of 8mm dia stainless, centre drill and with a running centre turn and thread.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1034.jpg)
Flip it round and turn and thread the other end again using a running centre, to turn the cone I used a small fixed steady that I made some time ago it just clamps on the running centre.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1035.jpg)
These are the bits
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1043.jpg)
and assembled
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1038.jpg)
Cheers
:beer:
Stew
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Hi
Stew
Some nice detail work
I like that steady
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I like that little steady rest too. Nice idea. :thumbup: I'll have to copy it, if it's ok by you Stew?
And very nice work on those little detail items. I need to learn patients to do that. :med:
Bernd
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Nice build, I just love your'e small fixed steady :thumbup: :clap: :clap:
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Great going Stew :clap: :clap: - lovely work on the detail :thumbup:.
:D I love that steady too - so simple!
:beer:, Arnold
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Thanks for all your kind comments guys. that little steady I saw some ware and though that's a good idea, so when the need arose I made one, and glad I did.
Next bit up is the union coupling of the manifold to the steam chest, this had to be a naval type coupling otherwise the darn thing wouldn't screw together. The bits were just straight forward machining.
Her they are the little round mushroom bit screws into the square body through the nut its fixed in place with stud lock, tightening the nut onto the union on the manifold tightens onto it an make the seal, hope that made sense :scratch:
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1049.jpg)
Also made the oiler as I won't be running on steam its not a proper displacement oiler just a look a like, to use just unscrew the cap put a few drops of oil in screw the cap on tight, turn the air on and it will flush the oil into the cylinders.
Her's a pic of it all assembled onto the engine.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1053.jpg)
Starting to look a bit tasty.
Waiting for some 12mm dia thin wall brass tube to be delivered for the wistle, that will be the next bit.
Stew
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You're photos is so fine now that I think you can use it as a Christmas card :lol:
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That is some amazing work Stew simply beautiful!
I really love the looks of that flywheel!
Very very nice Stew keep up the good work!
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I can understand your union coupling....... :thumbup:
I don't understand how you manage to do the rest of it. Gorgeous! :drool:
(No, not you Stew...... The engine)! :palm:
David D
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I can understand your union coupling....... :thumbup:
I don't understand how you manage to do the rest of it. Gorgeous! :drool:
(No, not you Stew...... The engine)! :palm:
David D
Phaaaa ha ha ha
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I can understand your union coupling....... :thumbup:
I don't understand how you manage to do the rest of it. Gorgeous! :drool:
(No, not you Stew...... The engine)! :palm:
David D
We need an emticon that shows "mind in the gutter". :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I know mine was. :( :palm:
Bernd
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Well done Stew, love your steady from the tailstock, I've always wondered how people turn small bar without it flexing ... always get a taper on it, now I know! :thumbup:
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Thanks for your interest and support chaps.
Got a little done yesterday, I'm rapidly getting to the point with the build when its all about bling.
Made the stop valve handle out of a bit of broom handle, I just hope the boss doesn't notice.
Turned it up in the lathe and recessed it to take dime, I'll glue it in at final assembly.
This us what it look like.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1062.jpg)
Stew
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Now I know were that dime went that I lost. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Nice work Stew. That'll be one pretty engine once it's all "blinged up".
Bernd
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Thanks Bernd
Our daughter brought the dime back from her resent visit to the west coast, I asked her to bring back some us change just for this just job, taking a closer look at it I realized that each state has a different design on the tail side of the coin, some of them a very nice indeed.
Well I've more or less done all the machining work now, its just down to assembling the pulley for the governor and giving it a trial, then it down to some serious bling work.
Last job making the whistle, not much to show in terms of machine set ups most of it was basic stuff and file work, I followed LBSC instruction for making a loco whistle he was very insistent about getting the shape of the throat correct and the disc slot, it came out fine I get a nice sharp note, that set the dogs howling in the area, I was a bit concerned that it would come with a D flatulent note
:D :D :D :D
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1071.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1072.jpg)
Her's a few pics of the whistle fitted, I won't post any more pics of the engine now until its all blinged up.
Stew
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Just lovely, I have no wor word :bow: :bow: :bow:
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Thanks Bernd
Our daughter brought the dime back from her resent visit to the west coast, I asked her to bring back some us change just for this just job, taking a closer look at it I realized that each state has a different design on the tail side of the coin, some of them a very nice indeed.
Stew
Must be Marv must of lost it then.
I bet those are 25¢ pieces. If you collect all you'll have 51 for the states and 4, I believe from the territory area's such as the Virgin Islands and so forth.
Ok I'm :offtopic: here, back to the popcorn machine.
Video soon, right? :ddb: :ddb: :poke:
Bernd
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I do have to say that, as usual, you are raising the bar with each build you do. This is turning out to be absolutely beautiful, true exhibition standard. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
Tim
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Very nice Stew
Well shown as well :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
John
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Thanks Bernd
Our daughter brought the dime back from her resent visit to the west coast, I asked her to bring back some us change just for this just job, taking a closer look at it I realized that each state has a different design on the tail side of the coin, some of them a very nice indeed.
Stew
........ If you collect all you'll have 51 for the states and 4, I believe from the territory area's such as the Virgin Islands and so forth......
:offtopic: In which case, a collection of said coins is required which Stew then stamps 1/55, 2/55 etc. then Stew needs to productionise the manufacture as that would leave another 54 similar models to complete the set; or maybe franchise out the manufacture? or maybe, after publication, since they have single-model car racing - maybe there could be a single-model competition - but to be eligible the modeller would have to buy one of the numbered highlights from Stew? - and there could be a (healthy?) rivalry - "I've got New Hampshire" and you've only got "xxxx" !
Dave :beer:
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In which case, a collection of said coins is required which Stew then stamps 1/55, 2/55 etc. then Stew needs to productionise the manufacture as that would leave another 54 similar models to complete the set; or maybe franchise out the manufacture? or maybe, after publication, since they have single-model car racing - maybe there could be a single-model competition - but to be eligible the modeller would have to buy one of the numbered highlights from Stew? - and there could be a (healthy?) rivalry - "I've got New Hampshire" and you've only got "xxxx" !
Now thats an idea but first I'll collect the coins before I embark on the mass production of engines, I've got Maryland, Nebraska and Wyoming, as soon as you guys over the pond send me the rest I'll get started.
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
:update: :update: :update: :update: :update: :update: :update: :update:
Well got the governor working but it needs a full tank of air and max pressure to make it go, I think its jut lack of power from the small dia cylinder. Take the drive belt off and it just runs away like the clappers, I'll be stripping down over the next week or so and blinging it up.
Stew
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:update: :update: :update: :update: :update: :update:
Things bin a bit slow this week, but I did manage to get the bits that are to be painted painted.
I used a acid etch primer for the non ferouse bits and an ordinary car primer for the ferous bit, I'm using a red metalic paint.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1080.jpg)
Also made a hard wood base her are the bits
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1087.jpg)
And made a start on engine turning the ally base I'm using some cretex points that John gave me he olso explained the best way to do it :thumbup:
This is as far as i got i was getting a bit boseyed, and didn't want to mess it up and have to start again so I'll come back to it tomorrow and finish off.
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1090.jpg)
Stew
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"One more step along the way"........ :thumbup:
Not surprised you're bos-eyed Stew...... At first glance, the base looks like a beautiful piece of old embroidery! :D
Well done! :clap: :clap:
David D
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Well as you may have seen elsewhere this engine is now complete so just to finish off this thread hers the completed engine
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/IMG_2254.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/IMG_2256-1.jpg)
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/IMG_2258-2.jpg)
And the video
I've just spent the last couple of days checking over the drawings and completing the drawing for the Governor bits
I've emailed the final drawing to every one who had the early drawings, if I've missed any one my apologies just give me :poke: via a PM.
And if anyone else wants a copy just send me a PM.
Stew
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Hi Stew!
That looks fantastic. An amazing engine to say the least! :drool:
I would like a copy of the plans. :beer:
Eric
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Hi Stew
So whats next on the drawing board :D
Rob
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Hi
Stew
That really looks the part now :thumbup: :worthless:
Did you mention a triple :bugeye: :bugeye: :bugeye:
John
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Cheers Guys
Hi Stew
So whats next on the drawing board :D
Rob
I've got my eye on one of these beasts.
http://www.aqpl43.dsl.pipex.com/MUSEUM/POWER/rotaryengines/rotaryeng3.htm
Simpson and Shipton Reciprocating steam engine, best way I describe it is that its works with a captive eccentric.
Antony Mount made one a few years ago and polly model suply castings.
From my research only two were made the first was displayed at the great exhibition and drove some textile machinery, this was the basis of Antony Mounts engine apparently a second was made with a diferent power take off but there are no images of it.
So i think I may use the speculation of this second engine as a basis for my model, got some ideas on how to configure the drive, I don't have any drawings to work to so I'll have to figure things out as i go along, and it will be fabricated from bar stock some how. :scratch:
Stew
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You really do like a different challenge Stew! :smart:
Good luck with the next one..... :thumbup:
David D
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Stew, really fantastic stuff, the engine looks great and as usual I`ve learnt a lot from your excellent descriptions and photos. What camera do you use for your photos and what lighting (or please point me to a link if you have already mentioned this elsewhere!)
The next engine you mentioned sounds a challange but I`d still love to see you build a clock as I`m certain that with your skills it would not be second to even a clockmakers attempts! I know you mentioned building one a few years back...
Anyway, amazing work Stew! :bow: :bow: really really great stuff
Chris
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Good choice of engine for you new project Stew ,,,,, looks like some challenging machining required :med: :)
You started yet :poke: :lol:
Rob
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Thanks Chaps
What camera do you use for your photos and what lighting (or please point me to a link if you have already mentioned this elsewhere!)
Chris:- I use a choise of cameras, for every day use in the shop I have a cheapo Kodak camera, I have it mounted on one of those magnetic stands that they sell for use with clocks, this keeps the shakes down, I use it in closeup mode, with just ambient shop lighting, for set up shots I just take a series of shots with or without flash and choose the best one. The posh shots of the finshed engine I use a cannon SLR on a tripod, again using ambient lighting, but I try to set the shot up in a sunny window, I have an old lemon bed sheet that I use as a reflector and background. For the videos i use a Cannon IXUS. Tim spudevans did a real good thread taking pics on her a few years back if you do a search on his name you should find it.
The only thing thats putting me off doing a clock is that i've realy got into the chalenge of seeing an engine and comming up with a design and working out how to make it, I don't have the knowledge of clocks to do that, and would have to work to a published design.
Any way thanks for your interest.
I do follow your clock builds closely.
Stew
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Cheers Guys
I've got my eye on one of these beasts.
http://www.aqpl43.dsl.pipex.com/MUSEUM/POWER/rotaryengines/rotaryeng3.htm
Simpson and Shipton Reciprocating steam engine, best way I describe it is that its works with a captive eccentric.
Antony Mount made one a few years ago and polly model suply castings.
From my research only two were made the first was displayed at the great exhibition and drove some textile machinery, this was the basis of Antony Mounts engine apparently a second was made with a diferent power take off but there are no images of it.
So i think I may use the speculation of this second engine as a basis for my model, got some ideas on how to configure the drive, I don't have any drawings to work to so I'll have to figure things out as i go along, and it will be fabricated from bar stock some how. :scratch:
Stew
Hello.
Achim Meyer did one Simpson from bar stock:
http://dampfforum.info/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=7997&hilit=Simpson
Unfortunately, you have to become a member of the Dampfforum to see the topic.
I'm sure,Achim will be glad to show you his drawings.
(http://achim-meyer-modell.de/Simpson/K800_Simson%202.JPG)
(http://achim-meyer-modell.de/Simpson/Simpson%205.jpg)
(http://achim-meyer-modell.de/Simpson/K800_DSCN1986.JPG)
(http://achim-meyer-modell.de/Simpson/K800_DSCN1999.JPG)
All images are taken from the Dampfforum
Cheers,Ralph
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Wow Ralph that is one very very nice engine, some cracking detailing, that has certainly given me some insperation, and no doubt perspiration to come. :D :D :D
Thanks for showing
Stew
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Amazing project once again Stew, your projects are looking so professional, well done. :thumbup:
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Cheers Nick
I've taken on an apprentice
(http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/qq32/sbwhart/Potty%20Popcorn%20Engine/131_1108.jpg)
:D :D :D :D
Stew
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:D :) :lol: :lol: :) :D
That's brightened a very grey afternoon! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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That sure is pretty nice job! I like that color!
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Check this link out http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:
Stew
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Getting to be a habit with you...... Ennit? :lol:
Congratulations, and........ Well done, Stew! :clap: :clap: :thumbup:
David D
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Stew
Congratulation Stew. Didn't your mother always tell you that hard work would pay off in the end. Looks good on you. :D :D
Cheers :beer:
Don
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Stew,
congrats, looks very nice, exceptionally well done :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :clap: :clap: :clap:
:beer:
DaveH
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:D :D :D That deserves a whole bag of coconuts Stew :thumbup: :thumbup:
From the wording on the cover it looks like the article will run through more than one issue - do you know how many yet ?
:beer:, Arnold
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Becoming a celebrity of the Model Engineering world now! :beer:
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Thanks Chaps,
Quite a suprize that it went in so soon after submitting it, but to be honest I think they are short of articles judging by some of the comments the eds posted on the forum, also they have had quite a few none build articles: covering shows and visits to musiums etc, not as though there is anything wrong with them, i quite enjoy reading them.
Arnold I think it will run to about 5 parts:- about 20 pages.
Stew
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Becoming a celebrity of the Model Engineering world now! :beer:
Quite so, Nick. :thumbup:
So now he's hob-nobbing with the Upper Echelons I wonder if he'll lower himself to buy a beer or two for us impoverished scrotes ...
Good on yer anyway Stew .. you're a star ... :clap: :clap:
BC
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Cracking job Stew!!! :bow: :bow: :bow:
Am following the build in ME too just to double the delight!
Andy
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Quite so, Nick. :thumbup:
So now he's hob-nobbing with the Upper Echelons I wonder if he'll lower himself to buy a beer or two for us impoverished scrotes ...
[/quote]
Doubt it, we once had an Indian Takeaway, would probably have to dine out in a michalin star restaurant instead these days though! :lol:
Seriously though, it's fantastic and somehow still improving all the time too :bow: